Ali Sadpara

Muhammad Ali Sadpara (born February 2nd 1976; missing since February 5th 2021)[1] is a Pakistani mountaineer. He was part of the team that successfully achieved the first ever winter summit on Nanga Parbat in 2016.[2] Both his teammates, Alex Txikon and Simone Moro, have gone on record stating that they could not have done it without Sadpara's brilliance. He had successfully climbed four eight-thousanders in a calendar year and a total of eight in his career. [3]

Muhammad Ali Sadpara
Muhammad Ali Sadpara at Nanga Parbat base camp
Born(1976-02-02)2 February 1976
Disappeared5 February 2021
K2, Pakistan
StatusMissing for 4 days
NationalityPakistani
OccupationMountaineer
Spouse(s)Fatima Sadpara
Children3

Sadpara and his son, Sajid Sadpara, who had climbed K2 in 2019, teamed up with Icelandic mountaineer John Snorri Sigurjónsson,[4] and Chilean mountaineer Juan Pablo Mohr Prieto,[5] for a joint K2 ascent, leaving the highest camp on the evening of February 4th 2021. Sajid had to come back because of a technical issue leaving the others at the Bottleneck, close to the summit. His father, Snorri and Mohr kept climbing up, but they didn't come back by night as planned. A rescue mission with two army helicopters was organized on February 6th. The three climbers are still missing. [6]

Early life

He was born in the village of Sadpara, in periphery of Skardu city, in the extreme north of Pakistan to Fiza Sadpara. The youngest of eleven children, eight of his siblings did not survive childhood. He married his wife, Fatima, when he was 19 and had his first son, Sajid, soon after. He has a total of three children. [7] He started his career as a high altitude porter assisting in mountain climbing expeditions. [8] Like most porters, Ali traversed the rugged Baltoro Glacier in flip-flops and castoff gear. His passion for mountaineering led to him becoming a successful mountaineer.

Mountaineering experience

He has climbed 8 of 14 Eight-thousanders. His first climb was Gasherbrum II in Karakoram.

List of mountains climbed:

  • Gasherbrum II (Pakistan) in 2006,
  • Spantik Peak (Pakistan) in 2006,
  • Nanga Parbat (Pakistan) in 2008,
  • Muztagh Ata (China) in 2008,
  • Nanga Parbat (Pakistan) in 2009,
  • Gasherbrum I (Pakistan) in 2010,
  • Nanga Parbat First Winter Ascent (Pakistan) in 2016,
  • Broad Peak (Pakistan) in 2017,
  • Nanga Parbat First Autumn Ascent (Pakistan) in 2017,
  • Pumori Peak First Winter Ascent (Nepal) in 2017,
  • K2 (Pakistan) in 2018,
  • Lhotse (Nepal) in 2019,
  • Makalu (Nepal) in 2019,
  • Manaslu (Nepal) in 2019,

In 2015 his team tried to scale the Nanga Parbat in winter and was unsuccessful. They again tried in 2016 and summited the peak, and this resulted in the first ever winter summit of Nanga Parbat. He has climbed Nanga Parbat four times. In January 2018, Ali Sadpara teamed up with Alex Txikon[9], a Basque mountaineer, and tried unsuccessfully to summit Mount Everest in winter without any supplemental oxygen.[8][10][11]

In June 2018, he was enlisted by speed climber Marc Batard[12] to undertake a five year program entitled “Beyond Mount Everest”. They plan to summit Nanga Parbat, K2 and Mount Everest in 2019, 2021 and 2022 respectively. [13]

References
  1. No contact with Sadpara, two others on K2 mission
  2. "Muhammad Ali of Sadpara - Alpinist.com". www.alpinist.com. Retrieved 24 January 2021.
  3. "Ali Sadpara becomes first Pakistani to conquer world's seven 8000m peaks". www.thenews.com.pk. Retrieved 24 January 2021.
  4. John Snorri
  5. Juan Pablo Mohr Prieto
  6. "Pakistani mountaineer Ali Sadpara, 2 others reported missing on K2 expedition".
  7. "Muhammad Ali of Sadpara - Alpinist.com". www.alpinist.com. Retrieved 8 February 2021.
  8. "Ali Sadpara set to hoist Pakistan's flag on Mount Everest | The Express Tribune". The Express Tribune. 22 December 2017. Retrieved 23 August 2018.
  9. Alex Txikon
  10. Nagri, Jamil (2 January 2018). "GB mountaineer to summit Everest without supplemental oxygen. His specialties include: Ice climbing, rock climbing, mix climbing. Popularly known as Crazy Balti in the mountaineering fraternity, he is often the rope fixer on most difficult sections of mountains for all climbers". DAWN.COM. Retrieved 23 August 2018.
  11. "Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara begin toughest winter climb on Mt Everest". The Himalayan Times. 26 December 2017. Retrieved 23 August 2018.
  12. https://www.livemint.com/Leisure/jIIAQThAXP6buYS1n1ar1O/Marc-Batard--Racing-to-the-top.html. Missing or empty |title= (help)
  13. "Sadpara joins French mountaineer for 'Beyond Mount Everest' expedition". The Nation. 4 June 2018. Retrieved 23 August 2018.
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