Artimes Farshad Yeganeh
Artimes Farshad Yeganeh (Persian: آرتیمس فرشاد یگانه, born 27 May 1981 in Tehran, Iran) is an Iranian rock climber who has been climbing for 30 years of experiences as a professional climber, members of Iran sport climbing National Team for many years, as route setter in many national, continental and world cups and championships, and head coach of Iran Sport Climbing National Team for 6 years.[1][2][3][4] He also participates in sport climbing and bouldering competitions and is one of the most famous Iranian climbers.
Personal information | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Born | Tehran, Iran | May 27, 1981||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Education | Bachelor of Physical Education | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Occupation | Pro climber, climbing Head coach of Iran Sport Climbing Team, IFSC JUNIOR route setter and Asian Chief route setter | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Height | 177 cm (5 ft 10 in) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Weight | 61 kg (134 lb) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Climbing career | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Type of climber | Sport climbing | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Highest grade |
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Medal record
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Updated on 11 Dec 2014. |
Biography
Artimes was elected as one of the five members among sport climbing experts over Tehran province to make Tehran climbing league's statute.[5][6][7] Then, he participated as a first Iranian Alpine Club's representative in bouldering world cup of 2009 in France.[8][9] As he truly is well known for lead climbing, he also solo climbed two routes.[10] Currently, Artimes and Amin Abbasi are the only Iranian Continental route setters.[11] He became IFSC JUNIOR Route setter in 2019 and Asian Chief Route Setter. He also became International Route Setter in 2020.He is only Iranian International Route Setter.
Positions
Here are some positions he has held:
- 2007 – Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbing–Educational Consultant
- 2008 – Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbing–Educational Consultant
- 2009 – Tehran League founding member
- 2009 – Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbing–Educational Consultant
- 2010 – Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbing–Educational Consultant
- 2011 – Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbing–Educational Consultant
- 2013 – Tehran Rebolting Committee
- 2014 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
- 2014 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
- 2015 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
- 2015 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–National Team Committee–Head Coach of Youth Team
- 2016 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–National Team Committee–Head Coach of Youth Team
- 2016 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
- 2017 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
- 2017 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–National Team Committee–Head Coach of Youth Team
- 2018 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
- 2018 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Head Coach of Combined Team
- 2019 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
- 2019 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Head Coach of Combined Team
- 2020 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
Coaching
Coaching certificates
- IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing Coach Grade 1
- IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing Coach Grade 2
- IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing Coach Grade 3
- Rock Climbing Federation of Germany – Sport Climbing Coach Level 1, Level 2 and Level C1
Coaching experience
Gym | Time |
---|---|
Emam Ali University | 2003-2006 |
Army | 2005-2006 |
Davoudi | 2005-2008 |
Tarbiat Modarres University Climbing Gym | 2005-current |
ArmenianClimbing Gym Sipan | 2012-current |
Payam Climbing Gym | 2015-current |
Raspina Welness Climbing Gym | 2016-2018 |
MSFI Sport Climbing National Team Head Coach | 2014-current |
Route setting
Route Setting certificates
- IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing Route Setter Level 1
- IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing Route Setter Level 2
- IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – National Sport Climbing Route Setter
- ACC of IFSC – Continental Sport Climbing Route Setter
- IFSC Junior – International Sport Climbing Route Setter
Route setting experiences
- Chief Route Setter[5]
- 2006 – Chief Route Setter–University Student National Championship
- 2007 – Chief Route Setter–Junior and Youth National Championship
- 2007 – Chief Route Setter–University Student National Championship
- 2009 – Chief Route Setter–National Championship
- 2011 – Route Setter–IFSC Master Cup international Competition
- 2013 – Route Setter– IFSC Asian Championships Tehran, Iran
- 2015 – Route Setter – IFSC Asian Youth Championship Malaysia
- 2016 – Route Setter – IFSC Asian Youth Championship Iran
- 2016 – Route Setter – IFSC World Cup Munich, Germany
- 2017 – Route Setter – IFSC Asian Championship Tehran, Iran
- 2017 – Route Setter – IFSC Youth World Championship Innsbruck, Austria
- 2017 – Route Setter – IFSC Asian Cup Wanxianchan, China
- 2018 – Route Setter – IFSC World university Championships Slovakia
- 2018 – Route Setter – IFSC Asian Games Palembang, Indonesia
- 2018 – Chief Route Setter – IFSC Asian Championship Totori, Japan
- 2019 – Route Setter – IFSC World Cup bouldering Munich, Germany
- 2019 – Route Setter – IFSC China open Guanzhuo, China
- 2019 – Route Setter – IFSC Asian Youth Championship Combined Chongqing, China
- 2019 – Chief Route Setter – IFSC Asian Youth Championship Bengaloru, India
- 2020 – Route Setter – IFSC European Championships Moscow, Russia
Judging
Judging certificates
- IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing National Judge
Iran National Team memberships
- Junior National Team
- 1999
- National Team
- 2003
- 2004 – China, Asian Championship
- 2005 – Kerman (IRI), UIAA Asian Championship
- 2006 – Kaoshiung (TPE), UIAA Asian Championships
- 2007 – Qinghai (CHN), IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L+S)
- 2009 – France, Bouldering Worldcup
Ranks and medals
National championships
2002 | 2006 | |
---|---|---|
Lead | 3 | 1 |
Tehran Province championships
2001 | 2002 | 2003 | 2004 | 2005 | 2006 | 2007 | 2008 | 2009 | 2010 | 2012 | 2013 | 2014 | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 2 |
Lead | 2 |
Groups Cup
2000 | |
---|---|
Lead | 2 |
Solo
- Mashalah, 7c, 20 meters, Overhanging & Roof, Kermanshah, Iran, 2006, first ascent
- Gordefa, 7a+, 25 meters, Polokhab, Iran, 2006, first ascent
Climbing
Here are some of his Tops & First Ascent climbs:
Year | Name | Grade |
---|---|---|
2001 | Speed(FA) | 7c |
2002 | Ashiane(FA) | 8a+ |
2003 | Iran(FA) | 7c+ |
2004 | Iran Swiss | 8a+ |
2005 | Khashol(FA) | 7c |
2006 | Khoke chamosh(FA) | 7c+ |
2007 | Ashianedoe(FA) | 8b |
2009 | Solo(FA) | 8b |
2010 | Tehran Guy(FA) | 8a |
2011 | Father & Son(FA) | 7c+ |
2018 | Marmolak | 8b |
2018 | Bargrizan | 8b+ |
2018 | Push your must(FA) | 7c+/8a |
2018 | Pishadul(FA) | 7c+ |
2019 | Vampire(FA) | 8b+ |
2019 | Colony(FA) | 8b+ |
2020 | Sourkhpoost(Indian) | 8a |
2020 | Gladiator | 8c |
2020 | Merry Jain (FA) | 8a+,8b |
2020 | Karimz(SA) | 8b+,8c |
Filmography
- Mashalla[10]
Route
Here are some of the routes he bolted:
Year | Name | Grade |
---|---|---|
2006 | Khashol | 7c |
2006 | Pichol | project |
2007 | Khoke chamosh | 7c+ |
2009 | O+ | 7c |
2008 | Solo | 8b |
2008 | Toxic | project |
2009 | Emperor project | ? |
2010 | Tehran guys | 8a |
2011 | Gladiator Project | 8c |
2011 | Father and Son | 8a+ |
2013 | Vampire | 8b+ |
2014 | Ati | 7b+ |
2018 | Colony | 8b+ |
2018 | Pishadul | 7c+ |
2019 | Surkhpoost (Indian) | 8a |
2020 | Gladiator | 8c |
References
- "Athlete profile: Artimes Farshad Yeganeh". IFSC Climbing. 11 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- "Athlete profile: Artimes Farshad Yeganeh". Digital Rock. 11 August 2007. Archived from the original on 9 December 2014. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- "Athlete profile: Artimes Farshad Yeganeh". Digital Rock. 11 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- "آخرین نتایج مسابقات جهانی تا این لحظه". Binalood. 11 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- "Saeid Jaryani won the 5th round of Tehran's climbing league". Iran Mountain Zone. 15 December 2009. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- "Statute of Tehran climbing league will be made". Iran Mountain Zone. 23 September 2010. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- "Statute of Tehran climbing league will be made". Alpine Cub of Iran. 21 September 2010. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- "Iran's Alpine Club invites for 80th public meeting". Iran Mountain Zone. 10 September 2009. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- "Iran's Alpine Club invites for 80th public meeting". Alpine Climb of Iran. 10 September 2009. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- "Mashalah {7C}". Mandis Tafreshian. 23 January 2010. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- "Officials Resources". IFSC-Climbing.org. 7 August 2014. Retrieved 1 November 2014.
- "UIAA Asian Championship - Iran 2005". Digital Rock. 23 September 2005. Archived from the original on 12 October 2014. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- "UIAA Asian Championships - Kaoshiung (TPE) 2006". Digital Rock. 29 October 2006. Archived from the original on 12 October 2014. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L+S) - Qinghai (CHN) 2007". Digital Rock. 11 August 2007. Archived from the original on 12 October 2014. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- "UIAA Asian Championship - Iran 2005". IFSC Climbing. 23 September 2005. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- "UIAA Asian Championships - Kaoshiung (TPE) 2006". IFSC Climbing. 29 October 2006. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L+S) - Qinghai (CHN) 2007". IFSC Climbing. 11 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- "UIAA Asian Championships - Kaoshiung (TPE) 2006 Startlists". IFSC Climbing. 29 October 2006. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L+S) - Qinghai (CHN) 2007". IFSC Climbing. 11 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- "Ergebnis: Lead-Weltcup in Qinghai (CHN) - Herren". Ergebnis. 13 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- "Re: 20070811青海世界盃最新成績公告". mountaineering.org.tw. 15 August 2007. Archived from the original on 14 October 2015. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- "IFSC Lead World Cup – Qinghai(CHN) 2007" (PDF). ffme. 13 August 2007. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- "UIAA Asian Championship Iran 2005". IFSC and DR. 24 September 2005. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- "10th Fajr Climbing Championship in men's category came to its end". Iran Mountain Zone. 24 January 2010. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- "TMU club fixed in its place at the top of Tehran Climbing League". Iran Mountain Zone. 9 July 2011. Archived from the original on 2 October 2012. Retrieved 31 October 2014.
- "Roctrip im Zillertal: Zwischen Kuhglocken und Ultimate Route". klettern. 29 August 2008. Archived from the original on 19 April 2014. Retrieved 31 October 2014.