Austrått

Design by Gerhard Schøning, ca 1774

The loggia; where the master rules over worldly goods as God's and the King's representative.

There is little known about the Austrått estate ownership for the next two centuries. In the 14th century the Rømer (family) family became lords of the estate. Otte Rømer (ca 1330–ca 1411) was probably the first owner from this lineage. A member of the State Council, Jep Fastulvsson was the owner from about 1400 until 1428. His widow Elsebet Ottesdatter Rømer[5] inherited the estate upon Jep's death in 1428 and remained in control of the estate until 1444. Through Elsebet's family Jep Fastulvsson came into possession of the estate. Jep and Elsebet's son Narve Jepsson owned the estate for four years before he died.[6] His brother Mads claimed Austrått after Narve's death, but the property eventually was transferred to Narve's widow Philippa Borkvardsdatter Krummedike and subsequently to his daughter Gjertrud Narvesdatter.[7] Gjertud never lived at Austrått. In about 1462 she married the Swedish knight Magnus Green and sold Austrått to his stepfather, Philippa's new husband, Henrik Jensson.

Ibsen's drama Fru Inger til Østeraad (Lady Inger of Oestraat) is set at Austrått but corresponds only roughly with historical fact.

After Henrik Jensson died sometime between 1472 and 1478, Gjertrud's cousin, Otte Madsson exercised his odelsrett and took possession of the estate in the period 1478–1481. About Otte little is known, but his daughter, son-in-law and granddaughters are well known to posterity: Chancellor and Lord High Steward of Norway Nils Henriksson ("Gyldenløve") (~1458–1523) and his wife, the famous Ingerd Ottesdatter (featured in the Ibsen play - "Fru Inger til Austrått") (~1470–1555) owned the estate ~1500–1552. Lord Niels was responsible for Sunnmøre, Romsdal and two of the districts in Trøndelag. After his death, Fru Inger became one of the most important persons in Norway during the reformation period.[8][9]

Lord Nils Henriksonn was the son of the former owner Henrik Jensson. Through his marriage with Inger Ottesdatter, Lord Nils, whose family also had a hereditary claim to Austraat, resolved the conflicting claims between the families' rights of inheritance[9][10]

Fru Inger Ottesdatter (Lady Ingred of Austrått) played a key role in assuring Austrått was historically noteworthy. Gjerset has written, "Lady Ingre of Østraat was a talented, but ambitious and covetous Lady. Through the marriage of her daughters to immigrated Danish nobles who had high positions in the kingdom, she exercised a unique influence, and became the leading figure in one of the most tragic chapters in Norwegian history".[10]

Although the political and economic change to a Lutheran state church during the reformation happened quickly, it was some time before it was widely accepted by the people. Prior to the transition, the new doctrine had been preached only in Bergen and in a few noble households along the western seaboard. Influenced by Fru Inger, Austraat was one of the households noted for early assumption of the Protestant doctrine.[9]

It is likely that parts of the manor, as it stands today, were built during Nils and Inger's lifetime,[11] when the main hall and the left wing of the main building were erected. Fru Inger lived quietly until her husband died in 1523, but as a widow she became politically active. Both historians and playwrights have examined the power struggle between the Protestant Fru Inger and Archbishop Olav Engelbrektsson, the last Catholic Archbishop of Nidaros. The Archbishop plundered Austrått three times, and contributed to the deaths of two of Ingerd's sons-in-law. On the other hand, Fru Ingerd was not above reproach; she harboured a pretender to the Swedish throne[10] and behaved aggressively in several dubious inheritance-related legal actions.[12]

During the struggle Fru Inger and her son-in-law, Lord Vincence Lunge harbored a pretender to the Swedish throne, nominally the son of Sten Sture, at Austrått. The pretender was ultimately revealed to be a criminal named Jons Hansson. Having won Fur Inger's confidence in 1526, Jons became engaged to one of her daughters. Even after the fraud had been exposed, one of Inger's sons-in-law, Vincense Lunge,[13] continued to support the pretender - presumably to limit competition for the estate of Austrått - until Hansson was killed in Rostock. Lunge was subsequently murdered by allies of archbishop Olav Engelbrektsson January 3, 1536.[14][10]

In 1552, the widow Inger transferred the Austrått estate to her daughter Lucie Nilsdatter and son-in-law Jens Tillufssøn Bjelke. Inger and Lucie drowned together in 1555, at Sunnmøre during a boat journey. With Fru Inger's death, the old Norwegian nobility of the first rank had virtually died out, as had the old Danish noble families who had intermarried with them. But new noble families were founded by Danes who, upon coming to Norway, acquired estates and became thoroughly Norwegian. Among these Danes were two sons-in-law of Fru Inger. Jens Tillufssøn Bjelke, upon acquiring Austraat became the founder for the noble line of Bjelke, which held Austrått until 1699.[9]

Jens Tillufssøn Bjelke died in 1559, and his son, Åge Bjelke (1552–1603) assumed possession of Austrått at the age of seven years. His guardian was Henrik Nielsson, the son of his maternal grandfather Niels from a previous marriage. Åge drowned in the Bjugnfjorden, and his widow held Austrått for six years before she transferred it to her son, Jens Bjelke (1580–1659). During the Åge Bjelke and Jens Bjelke periods of ownership the estate saw increased revenue as a result of the rich herring fishery on the Trøndelag coast during the 17th century.[9]

In April, 1611 King Christian IV declared war on Sweden. Jens Bjelke and Sten Bille, then Governor of Trondelag, were directed to assemble 2,000 men and muster them in Jämtland. The movement of Norwegian troops into Sweden from Jämtland was rebuffed and then-Catholic Sweden took control of then-Catholic Jämtland, with a notable welcome from the natives. Jämtland was returned to Norway in the peace treaty and Jens did not suffer seriously for the failed invasion of Sweden, as he went on the become Chancellor of Norway. Jens Bjelke held the office of Chancellor from 1614, was feudal overlord to Bergen from 1633, in Stavanger from 1641 and later on Elingård as well.[8]

Ove Bjelke (1611–1674) was married three times: first to Maren Juel (died 1643), after 1647 to Regitze Gedde (1629–1657), and in 1660 to Hedvig Lindenow (1635–1678).

Ove Bjelke (1611–1674), who leased Austrått from 1641, took over both Austrått and the position of Chancellor for Norway when his father, Jens, died in 1659. As feudal overlord to Bakke kloster Ove had been able to stay at Austrått on a regular basis and oversee operations there. Much of the manor as it stands today is the result of his efforts. The current design of the central building, the wings, the gateway and the design of the main staircase have been attributed to him. Ove Bjelke was educated in Padua, Italy, and sources indicate[15] that both the central tower and pillar are based on comparable structures there. At the same time the central axis of the loggia (a gallery of Italian design) provides a clear expression of an Absolute monarchy-esque world view, with the Chancellor as the worldly authority, and thus as God's representative.

Upon Ove Bjelke's death, his three daughters did not assume control of Austrått. The estate passed to Ove's nephew Christoffer Bjelke, the son of Admiral Henrik Bjelke. Christoffer owned Austrått from 1674, but rarely visited it. In 1686 he sold the estate to his cousin Christian Frederik von Marschalck (ca 1650–1719). Marschalck, who served as Chancellor, as had his uncle Ove Bjelke, lost Austrått to bankruptcy. He left Austrått for Denmark in 1698, in 1699 and handed control of the property to his creditors, who included Den norske krigshospitalkasse and other public financial institutions. After this Austrått passed out of hereditary status as a seat of nobility, and lost its Åsetesrett status.[16][17]

Abraham Dreyer (1671–1736) was a Court of Appeals Judge in Trondheim, a mayor and a significant investor. In 1721 he purchased Austrått through the bailiff who was acting on behalf of the creditors. Dryer never took up residence there, but paid for renovations. In 1736 he sold the estate to the judge and counselor Søren Dass, who took up residence at the manor; he is buried in the chapel burial chamber. In 1760 his widow sold the property to commerce counselor Hans Holtermann[18] (1709–1781), which began 103 years of Holtermann family ownership. This first Holtermann sold a portion of the estate properties in Stjørna, and is probably responsible for modifications of the manor such as the addition of a mansard roof to the main hall. He transferred ownership of the estate to his son Eiler Hagerup Holtermann[19](1748–1800). Both in Eiler's and in his son Ove Bjelke Holtermann's[20] (1782–1857) ownership period many tenant farms were sold, reducing the size of the estate.

Around 1770 Eiler Horn Mann imported cattle from Ireland and the Netherlands.[21] This became the basis for a separate local cattle breed known as "Austråttfe", which through the loan of breeding stock became dominant in Orland and the neighboring villages from 1806 until 1902.[22] The characteristics of Ove Bjelke Holtermann's Austråttfe bred cattle was a deep red body colour with a white head.

The priest Eiler Hagerup Holtermann[23] (1811–1872) assumed the estate from his father in 1857, but spent little time there as his ecclesiastical duties kept him elsewhere. Eiler Holtermann sold part of the estate at Gjølga, a large forestry property in Bjugn before he sold Austrått to Anders Gravrok in 1863.[24] Gravrok was resident at Austrått for 6 years before he declared bankruptcy. Eiler H. Holtermann was the only one who bid on the estate at the bankruptcy sale and in 1871 resumed ownership of Austrått. He died in 1872. His widow Anna Andrine Holtermann arranged to sell land in Tarva, before she sold Austrått in 1873 to Oppdaler Ole Rise[25] (1835–1899).

Ole Rise owned the manor for 9 years, before his interest was purchased by John Heftye (1849–1907). Rise then settled in Stjørdal, where he bought Ree farm. During the period he owned Austrått, he also owned Sundnes distillery on the island of Inderøy. There had previously been a dairy operation on Austrått, probably from 1858, and continuing until the dairy burned down sometime in 1879 and Rise continued it. Rise's stewardship of the Austrått property has been the source of some disagreement. Andersen/Bratberg writes that "Rise ... has received a bad reputation as a man who depleted the property and was only interested in making the most money possible out of it"; while local historian Terje Sørensen wrote that "Ole Rise ran the property well, putting into use the existing buildings and building an extension to the cow barn. It was called "Rise Cow Barn." He received the prize for good cattle care in 1875, and was awarded prizes at exhibitions of livestock and dairy products".[26]

Johannes Thomassen Heftye (1849–1907) owned Austrått from 1882 until his death in 1907. He came from a wealthy Kristiania family, was the son of Thomas Johannessen Heftye, lived in the Austrått manor, and worked actively to re-create the master farmers or estate feel both inside and outside of the manor. Heftye was considered somewhat "eccentric" by locals and came into conflict over property rights. A dispute over the use of a right-of-way resulted in Heftye shooting and accidentally killing a man on 26 December 1899.[27]

Politicians and speculator[28] Peder Rinde (1844–1937) owned Austrått from 1908 to 1912. He reduced the size of the estate's property by selling a number of plots. A formal distinction between the manor and the estate as separate property was filed in 1912,[29] but was not legalized until later under another owner. In 1912 Rinde sold Austrått to Kristiania-capitalist (consultant and industrialist) Georg Walentin Hammer,[30] who owned Austrått for 2 years. Both under Rinde and Hammer, the agronomist Olaf Arnstad served as the farm manager. Hammer sold Austrått by auction in 1914 – it was purchased by a consortium,[31] consisting of timberman Simen A. Landet, brewery owner Gunnerius Flakstad and attorney Hans Christian Bull Heyerdahl'. All three were resident in Hedmark, and the first two directors were directors of the Oplandske Kreditbank.

The manor after the fire in November 1916

After the manor house burned on 28 November 1916, the investors had little interest in restoring the manor. In 1919 the title for the manor was transferred to the Norwegian state, while the Austrått estate land was retained by Simen Landet. Following his death in 1935, his property passed to Orland municipality. The Orland municipality sold the land to the county in 1947, with the thought that the farm would be an agricultural school. This was not realized, and in 1985 the land was sold back to the Orland municipality. The Orland council now owns what is left of the soil property, approximately 1,500 hectares.

Drawing of the manor floor plan

Guided tours of the castle chapel during the royal family's visit in 2006

The manor house with the pyramid in the foreground

The chapel, with its noticeably thicker walls, comprises one side of the current main building, standing approximately 13 meters up to the ridge. In the west end there was a narrow tower which today lies on the central axis of the main building. Today's low ceiling in the chapel dates back to the reconstruction that was carried out in the 17th century. In the tower there may previously have been a private chapel for the manor's gentleman on the floor above the ground floor. Behind the chapel lies a partition, probably listed in records as the chancel rail ~1620, but moved to the back during reconstruction of the chapel. The chapel pews have carved end-ornamentation, and one of the pew doors is preserved.

The altarpiece is in the 1650-century Baroque style and was painted and carved by anonymous artists. The painting shows the crucifixion, while the carved angels on the frame exhibit the passion-cycle implements: nails and a thorny crown. At the bottom of the altarpiece, under the image, are carved the coat of arms for Bjelkes, Juuls and Lindenows. A chalice and a silver altar dish from 1655 are preserved at Austrått. A chasuble[40] from 1662 is preserved in the church's collection. The carved pulpit is from the early 17th century.

In addition to the altarpiece, 4 of the 7 paintings with biblical theme that Ove Bjelke acquired for the chapel are preserved. In addition 7 of the 10 sculptures from the Middle Ages were rescued from the fire in 1916. The most important of these is the Austrått Madonna, one of four sculptures in the chapel which date from the period of 1220–1260, and which were either imported from northern England, or were carved in Trondheim by an English craftsman. There are also two sculptures of Saint Olaf, from 14th and 15th centuries.

The coffins of Ove Bjelke, of his first two wives Maren Juul and Regitze Giedde, as well as of a later owner, Judge Søren Dass (who died in 1757) lie in the burial chamber beneath the church. The entrance to the burial chamber lies behind the altar. The burial chamber was built in 1667 by Ove Bjelke. The coffins were buried in the Ørland church yard from 1859 to 1928. They were returned to the manor during the feast of Saint Olaf in 1928; a large ceremony with 3000 spectators accompanied the return.

The main building was built around the chapel. The exact dates of construction are unknown, but it was likely to have been completed by Ove Bjelke in 1665/66. The manor's great hall, now called the "Knight's Hall", lies above the chapel and in the right portion of the main building. This hall has been used for governmental meetings and formal occasions. In Ove Bjelke's time it was adorned with 11 paintings, of which the most important was a portrait of King Christian IV. Since the post-fire restoration it now displays the portrait of Ove Bjelke and his three brothers Jørgen, Henrik and Christian Bjelke. This hall has been restored with patterns similar to the floor of the 18th century; previously, the floor had been patterned brick. The fireplace from 1625-50 in the Dutch Renaissance style, "is among the foremost at Austrått".[41] On the west wall, along the hall-tower axis, are two oak doors, reconstructed in the style of the originals from the 17th century.

Upstairs west of the tower there are two rooms, the first of which is greater than the other. The first has been used as a living room, and has both a fireplace and a kakkelovn (glazed-tile stove or "cocklestove"). During Ove Bjelke's time an armory (weapons collection) was stored here. A tin tray, made in Hamburg in 1666, with Ove Bjelke's and Hedvig Lindenow's coat of arms, are on display there now. Until 1800 the innermost, smaller space was divided into two separate rooms: the Lord's and the Lady's bedrooms.

From the end of the 19th century the left portion of the first floor of the main building served as the kitchen and pantry. Today it serves as the cafe and giftshop for visitors.

The tower spire has the initials EHand the year 1781 carved in it, commemorating the year that Eiler Holtermann took over Austrått from his father.

The building first appeared in its current built form in 1656

In the 17th century the main building was supplemented by connecting walls which tie the two side wings to the main building. The side wings each contain dwelling rooms. The wings are connected by walls to the gate tower with the entry portal centrally positioned in the tower. From the outside the walls are arranged such that the manor appears essentially square in layout. There is a significant increase in elevation (from south to north) in the courtyard, so that the terrain in the upper part of the manor courtyard is level with the main building vestibule and level with the second floor of the side wings. The bedrock is visible both on the surface in the lower courtyard, and in the transition area. Both the upper and lower courtyards are paved with flagstone. The steps connecting the levels were built in the 17th century.

One of the five prudent bridesmaids.

In the vestibule of the courtyard one can see the side wings second floors. The columns that hold the roofs of the side wings are carved wood with a religious theme. They represent the ten bridesmaids, five wise and five foolish, known from Jesus' parable of the bridge groom in the Gospel of Matthew, Chapter 25. Statues of two young angels, and of four male figures from the Old Testament (Moses, Joshua, Elia and probably Gideon) are on the west end of the courtyard. The original figures from the 17th century were Baroque in character, while the reconstructions from the 1950s are made in a cleaner, tighter style.

A double staircase of authentic wrought-iron construction, and a roofed gallery (loggia) with three arches are centrally located on the main building, serving as a dominant feature for both the main building and the courtyard. Coats of arms and bible verses which attest to Lord Ove Bjelke origin and status are carved above the gallery arches. As viewed from the lord of the manor's position at the head of the stairs, the ten bridesmaids are arranged symbolically: they are distributed with the bad bridesmaids to the left and the good bridesmaids to the right.

The manor layout is designed to emphasize the lord of the manor's role as a Chancellor, as the King's representative and thus as God's deputy in the country and on the estate. The parable of the bridesmaids in Matthew's Gospel,[42] ends with a speech: "Then shall the King say unto them on his right hand: 'Come, you who are blessed by my Father'." and "Then shall he say to those on the left hand, 'Depart from me, ye cursed…'" Similarly the location of the caryatid-like figures from the Old Testament also emphasizes who the lord of the manor sees as his peers: the lawmaker, the military leader and the prophet are at his level and to his right.

The pyramid at Austrått

There is an inscription in Latin over the main door, inside the gallery: With God's help Ove Bjelke has committed to preserve this edifice for his heirs.

A square, stone pyramid southwest of the fortress bears a plaque with the inscription: «Her bær den Sted nu Korn som fordum haffuer baaren den dyre Rigens Mand af Herren sielff udkaaren Jens Bielcke, som i Fem og Fyrretiuffe aar Rett Landsens Fader och To Kongers Kandtzler waar». The plaque also bears the coats of arms of Ove Bjelke and of his three wives, as well as a Latin text that says that Bjelke, "a much-loved eldest son and father' successor in office". The plaque suggests the monument was erected in 1665. Stylistically it is not likely that the pyramid was built in 1665,[43] and it is postulated that the memorial plaque was relocated from elsewhere to the pyramid when it was raised ain the 18th century, sometime before 1774.[44]