Capela dos Ossos

The Capela dos Ossos (English: Chapel of Bones) is one of the best known monuments in Évora, Portugal. It is a small interior chapel located next to the entrance of the Church of St. Francis. The Chapel gets its name because the interior walls are covered and decorated with human skulls and bones.

Interior of the chapel
Chapel's wall
Close-up with skulls

Origin

The Capela dos Ossos was built by Franciscan monks. An estimated 5,000 corpses were exhumed and to decorate the walls of the chapel.[1] According to legend, the bones were from soldiers who died in a battle or victims of the plague. In reality, however, the bones came from ordinary people who were buried in Évora's medieval cemeteries. In any event, the Franciscans arranged the bones in a variety of patterns.[2]

Description

The chapel is formed by three spans 18.7 meters long and 11 meters wide. Light enters through three small openings on the left. Its walls and eight pillars are decorated in carefully arranged bones and skulls held together by cement. The ceiling is made of white painted brick and is painted with death motifs. The number of skeletons of friars was calculated to be about 5000, coming from the cemeteries that were situated inside several dozen churches. Some of these skulls have been scribbled with graffiti. Two desiccated corpses, one of which is a child, are in glass display cases. And at the roof of chapel, the phrase "Melior est die mortis die nativitatis (Better is the day of death than the day of birth)" (Ecclesiastes, 7, 1) from Vulgate is written.

Poem

Image of two skeletons hanging from ropes.

Inside the Capela dos Ossos a poem about the need to reflect on one's existence hangs in an old wooden frame on one of the pillars. It is attributed to Fr. António da Ascenção Teles, parish priest of the village of São Pedro (wherein the Church of Saint Francis with its Capela dos Ossos was erected) from 1845 to 1848.

Aonde vais, caminhante, acelerado?
Pára...não prossigas mais avante;
Negócio, não tens mais importante,
Do que este, à tua vista apresentado.

Recorda quantos desta vida têm passado,
Reflecte em que terás fim semelhante,
Que para meditar causa é bastante
Terem todos mais nisto parado.

Pondera, que influido d'essa sorte,
Entre negociações do mundo tantas,
Tão pouco consideras na morte;

Porém, se os olhos aqui levantas,
Pára...porque em negócio deste porte,
Quanto mais tu parares, mais adiantas.

por Padre António da Ascenção

Where are you going in such a hurry traveler?
Stop … do not proceed;
You have no greater concern,
Than this one: that on which you focus your sight.

Recall how many have passed from this world,
Reflect on your similar end,
There is good reason to reflect
If only all did the same.

Ponder, you so influenced by fate,
Among the many concerns of the world,
So little do you reflect on death;

If by chance you glance at this place,
Stop … for the sake of your journey,
The more you pause, the more you will progress.

by Fr. António da Ascenção (translation by Fr. Carlos A. Martins, CC)

Images

Panoramic view of the altar area in the chapel

See also

References

  1. "Portugal's Chapel of Bones". Atlas Obscura. Retrieved 2020-02-22.
  2. "Vídeos «  Igreja de São Francisco | Évora | Portugal". igrejadesaofrancisco.pt (in Portuguese). Retrieved 2020-02-22.
  • Turner, J., Grove Dictionary of Art, MacMillan, 1996 - ISBN 0-19-517068-7.
  • The Rough Guide to Portugal - 11th edition March 2005 - ISBN 1-84353-438-X.
  • Rentes de Carvalho, J., Portugal - De Arbeiderspers, Amsterdam, 1999 - ISBN 90-295-3466-4.

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