Coiled sewn sandals

Pair of sandals, ca. 1580–1479 BC; Metropolitan Museum of Art

Coiled sewn sandals are an ancient Egyptian footwear constructed using a technique similar basket weaving whereby coils were sewn together with the same material used in construction of the coils.

The first evidence of coiled fabric was found in an expedition of Mersa/Wadi Gawasis in 2005-2006, which led to the discovery of artifacts, including the fabric.[1] These expeditions began in 2001, and the coiled fabric found within caves at the site were a large part of the discovery.[2] Coil sewn sandals in ancient Egypt were a Middle Kingdom creation.[1] This is evidenced through reliefs within the period displaying that particular shape of sandal.[1] The cave that specifically featured the rope coils was Cave 5.[2] Scholars have since studied the coils with the purpose of identifying their construction process and proposed purpose.[2]

The soles of the sandals were made of coiled halfa grass that was sewn together with strips of dom palm leaf, that helped to mat the grass together.[1] The coiling process would begin where bundles of the rope would be folded around themselves, providing both shape and a strong edge.[1] After each layer of coil was laid, it would be stitched to the previous coil, which would continue until the desired sandal design was obtained.[1] Though the styles of these sandals varied within the Middle Kingdom, the techniques remained mostly the same, and followed the pattern of being longitudinally symmetrical with a slightly taken-in middle.[1] Coil sewn sandals also featured two distinct types of straps.[1] The first was similar to that of regular sewn sandals where the front strap is made of a large strip of papyrus that is placed between the coils at the front and secured with a knot in the back.[1] The second is a folded strap that loops around the back.[1] Both are placed in-between the second and third bundle rather than being attached to the outside of the sandal.[1] Either of the strap complexes, as well as the shape of the sandals, gives the footwear a distinct sturdiness at the heel and strap region.[1]

The discovery of the Cave 5 and the contents therein lead to an investigation on the materials used for rope, coils, and other plant-based inventions.[2] Materials like papyrus, halfa grass, and palm leaf were used for a variety of building and construction materials in Ancient Egypt.[2] This is significant because each material directly correlates to a myriad of construction methods within Ancient Egypt.[2] They also relate to the locality of objects such as shelters, roofs, mats, and sewing materials mentioned previously.[2] This is helpful to determine further how various objects like the coil sewn sandals were made, how they were made, and where they were primarily utilized.[2]