Kazuya Hiraide

Kazuya Hiraide (平出和也, Hiraide Kazuya, born May 25, 1979) from Fujimi, Nagano Prefecture, is a Japanese ski mountaineer, Alpine climber, and professional mountain cameraman.

Kazuya Hiraide
Full name平出和也 (Hiraide Kazuya)
Born (1979-05-25) May 25, 1979
Fujimi, Japan

Hiraide became a serious mountain climber after joining a mountaineering club at his university. In 2001, he reached the eastern summit of Mt. Kula Kangri (7,381m) in Tibet. His list of accomplishments includes first ascents, reaching summits without oxygen and skiing from mountain peaks. In 2009, he scaled the previously unclimbed southeastern wall of Mt. Kamet (7,756m) in India, and with partner Kei Taniguchi, became the first Japanese to receive the 17th Piolet d'Or Award, the "Academy Award" of mountaineering. He also won three Piolet d'Or Awards for his first ascent on an uncharted route with Shispare in 2017 and Rakaposhi in 2019.[1] He also received the Japan Sports Award, sponsored by the Yomiuri Shimbun newspaper, in 2001 and 2009.

Sponsors

  • ICI Ishii Sports
  • Ternua
  • Zamberlan
  • Deuter
  • Adidas eyewear
  • SUUNTO

Selected results

Ski mountaineering

Mountain climbing

  • 2001
    • Kula Kangri East Peak (7381m), Pakistan, first ascent
    • Cho Oyu (8201m) China, summit, ski down from top
  • 2003
    • Kunyang Chhish (7852m), Pakistan, first try, west face
  • 2004
    • Golden Peak (7027m), Pakistan, new route, north west ridge, summit
    • Lila Peak (6200m), Pakistan, new route, east face, summit
    • Kunlun Mustag (6355m), China, new route, summit
  • 2005
    • Mustag Ata (7564m), China, second ascent, east ridge, summit, ski down to west side
    • Shivling (6543m), India, new route, north face to west face, summit
  • 2007
    • Shispare (7611m), Pakistan, first try, north east face
  • 2008
    • Gasherbrum II (8035m), Pakistan, summit
    • Broad Peak (8047), Pakistan, summit
    • Kamet (7756m), India, new route, south east face, summit
  • 2009
    • Gasherbrum I (8068m), Pakistan, Summit
    • Gaurishankar (7134m), China, first try, east face
  • 2010
    • Ama Dablam (6856m), Nepal, first try, north west face
  • 2011
    • Everest (8848m), Nepal, south side, summit
    • Naimonanyi (7694m), China, new route, south west ridge, summit, south peak (7200m), first ascent, first try, south east face
  • 2012
    • Khan Tengri (7010m), Kazakh, north side, summit
    • Shispare (7611m), Pakistan, first try, south west face
  • 2013
    • Everest (8848m), Nepal, summit
    • Diran (7266m), Pakistan, west ridge, summit
    • Shispare (7611m), Pakistan, first try, south west face
  • 2014
    • Everest (8848m), Nepal, south side
    • Hkakabo Razi (5881m), Myanmar, first try, north ridge
  • 2015
    • Everest (8848m), China, north side
    • Api (7132m), Nepal, north side, summit
  • 2016
    • Everest (8848m), China, north side, summit
  • 2017
    • Shispare (7611m), Pakistan, new route, north east face
  • 2019
    • Rakaposhi (7788m), Pakistan, new route, south face

Mountain accident - rescue helicopter crash

On November 7, 2010 the Annapurna record-holding rescue pilot Sabin Basnyat (34 years old) and his fellow technician Purna Awale (34 years old) were killed in a crash which took place on their second flight for Kazuya Hiraide, after they had safely airlifted David Göttler on the north face of Ama Dablam. This accident was reported in the video of Swiss broadcast SF1 with the title "Die Bergretter im Himalaya - Dokumentation" (The Rescue Team in Himalaya - Documentary).

Awards

  • 2008: Piolet d'Or, together with Kei Taniguchi (谷口ケイ, Taniguchi Kei) for the first ascent of the South-West face of Kamet (7756m, India) in alpine style
  • 2017: The 26th Piolet d'Or Award and The 12th Piolet d'Or Asia Award, together with Kenro Nakajima for the first ascent of the North-East face of Shispare (7611m, Pakistan) in alpine style.[6]
  • 2019: The 28th Piolet d'Or Award, together with Kenro Nakajima for the first ascent of the south face of Rakaposhi (7788m, Pakistan) in alpine style.[7]

References

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