Lancel (company)
Lancel is a French luxury leather goods company, founded in Paris in 1876 by Angèle and Alphonse Lancel[1] and developed by their son Albert.
Industry | Handbag |
---|---|
Founded | 1876 |
Founder | Angèle and Alphonse Lancel |
Headquarters | Paris , France |
Area served | Worldwide |
Key people | Giovanni Bonatti (CEO) |
Products | Handbags suitcases, small leather goods, accessories... |
Parent | Piquadro SpA |
The company manufactured pipes before expanding into leather goods and handbags.
It remained in the hands of the couple's descendants until it was acquired in the late 1970s by the Zorbibe brothers, who then launched the popular bucket-shaped Elsa bag under Chief Executive Sidney Toledano, now CEO at Dior.[1]
Lancel provides leather goods for men and women, such as handbags, wallets, purses, travel items, suitcases and accessories.[2]
History
From pipes to handbags
Lancel was founded by Angèle and her husband Alphonse Lancel in 1876, in Paris, France.[2][3]
Angèle and Alphonse manufactured and sold pipes and accessories for smokers in a small shop in Paris.
At the end of the 1880s, cigarettes became popular in France, especially among women. As society evolved, the couple created specific items. Lancel developed a range of products for women smokers such as cigarette cases.
From 1883, the company produced leather goods. Lancel opened a leather workshop and began making handbags in line with demand. Angèle Lancel designed bags to keep smoking items organized. She replaced almoner's pouches with handbags.
In 1900, Angèle designed "le sac à malices" (bag of tricks), a bag which featured hidden pockets. Lancel launched its first handbag collection in 1902.[4]
The company rapidly expanded and produced gifts, jewelry, watches and decorative items.[5] The couple either manufactured the products themselves or relied on their craftsmen.
A few years after its launch, Lancel developed a retail outlet network. In the 1900s, the brand registered around 10 boutiques.
Development
Their son Albert took the company's reins in 1901 and transformed the modest company into a global brand. He immediately placed the handbag at the core of the company's strategy. He suggested using fine leathers including lizard, calfskin... Albert also suggested adding pockets and other features. In 1929, he designed the Parapluie, which contained a mirror, a makeup bag and a folding umbrella.
1927 was a turning point for the company. The brand launched a bucket bag with a flexible shape.[5]
By the 1920s, the company also specialized in crafted grand tour luggage.[5]
Albert Lancel then filed a patent for the Bambino, the world's smallest portable radio, and the Aviona trunk. The company became a brand for luxury leather goods and accessories in Paris.
In the 1920s, Lancel was the first luxury brand to send its clients a catalog.
In 1929, Lancel opened a flagship store selling handbags and accessories[3] in the Opera district, where the brand is still present today.
After WW2
Lancel was one of the top three luxury leather goods brands in Europe from the 1930s to 1990s.[6]
Lancel launched a luggage collection in the 1950s and used nylon canvas to manufacture supple luggage items. Lancel designed the Kangourou suitcase with Nélac, a specific nylon thread especially made for the brand. The Kangourou was the first suitcase made with a light and supple canvas.[7]
When Albert Lancel died in 1960, his daughters took the reins. The Zorbibe brothers, who were subcontractors, joined forces and finally bought Lancel in 1976 to widen the business expansion.
In 1982, Lancel launched a sport collection using the nylon canvas reminiscent of the Kangourou suitcase designed 30 years previously.
To celebrate its 60th anniversary, Lancel relaunched the bucket bag in 1987 under the name "Elsa de Lancel". 6 million pieces were sold worldwide within 10 years.
Lancel and the artists
From the beginning, Lancel established links with Parisian artists: Arletty, Mistinguett, Edith Piaf, Maurice Chevalier, Bourvil, Josephine Baker.
Actresses wore Lancel handbags in movies. Then, famous artists collaborated with the brand and designed handbags.
In 1970, Salvador Dali sketched Le Dali handbag for his wife and muse Gala, with the help of Lancel's craftsmen.[8] He created La Toile Daligram. Le Dali was embossed with the secret love code. The bag referenced his love alphabet, "Daligramme", made up of eight cryptograms. The bag had a bicycle chain strap as a symbol of attachment between two people going in the same direction[5] and other symbols.[8]
This canvas was reinterpreted in 2011 in the Daligramme collection, a 50-piece series of handbags, purses, wallets and other accessories[9] that paid tribute to the Spanish artist.[10]
In the 1980s, Lancel took a new direction by associating faces with its collections, including supermodels Carla Bruni and Renée Simonsen, captured through the lens of photographer Patrick Demarchelier.
In 2008, Isabelle Adjani, French actress and brand muse, joined forces to create a line of handbags.[11]
2000's
In the 2000s, Lancel continued its expansion. The brand launched various collections.
In 2006, Lancel reissued the Elsa bucket bag in celebration of its 20th anniversary. In the same year, the company designed Premier Flirt, which became another hit.[12]
Lancel launched various signature handbags which included the Premier Flirt, the Adjani, the Daligramme, L'Amante, and the Brigitte Bardot.[8]
Early on, Lancel branched out to cater to a masculine clientele. In 2015, the French national tricolor flag was printed on the weekender and travel bag collection.[3]
In 2011, Lancel celebrated its 135th anniversary.[8] Lancel launched the Angèle handbag for the occasion,[8] which featured hidden mirrors.
In 2013, Lancel created the L bag, inspired by a 1970s bag found in the company archives. A year later, the brand produced the Charlie, referencing a bag sold in the 1960s.[13] In the 2015 men's collection, briefcases typified high-class businessmen of the 1930s and 1940s.[3]
In 2015, Lancel launched a new line of travel bags called Pop. Made in France, this collection was light and pliable, thanks to its soft leather.[14]
Lancel relaunched its range of luggage in 2016 with its "Explorer" products and with Aviona in 2017.
In 2016, Lancel organized various events to celebrate its 140-year history:[15] a travelling exhibition and a book with Flammarion in which several artists were invited to a carte blanche. Marjane Satrapi, Martin Parr, Omar Victor Diopp were few of them.
Today, Lancel markets handbags, small leather goods, suitcases, travel bags and accessories.
Economy
In 1997, Swiss company Richemont, the world's second biggest luxury group which owns Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels,[1] Piaget, and Montblanc,[16] acquired Lancel for 270 million euros ($375 million).[17][18][16][19][20]
Lancel also changed its customer base. Rich clients took an interest in Lancel while the brand managed to keep its historical clients.[21][17][19][16][20]
Corporate governance
In 1983, Sydney Toledano took the reins of the company for 10 years. He decided to associate the brand with top models.
In 2010, Leonello Borghi became the new artistic director.[8]
In 2013, Lancel was run part-time by Fabrizio Cardinali, CEO of Dunhill, another Richemont brand.[1]
In 2014, Marianne Romestain took control of the company. In September, Nicole Stulman, who had previously worked for Reed Krakoff, Hermès and Céline,[1] became artistic director.
Production
Sketches and prototypes are designed in Lancel's Paris headquarters, in its workshop. Four skilled workers create prototypes designed by artistic director Nicole Stulman. Shapes, colors, stitching are decided in Paris. Each prototype requires 2 or 3 days to make (cutting, leather preparation, gluing, finishing...). Lancel also prepares its own pigments.
Each bag is handmade: between 20 and 100 pieces are necessary for a woman bag. It takes 3 months to develop a model in the Atelier Lancel in Paris. 1 to 2 square meters are necessary to make a woman bag.
Distribution
The French boutique located on the Place de l'Opéra in Paris is the brand's major point of sale. This boutique was designed in 1927 in Art-Deco style.
In November 2005, Lancel opened a store on Champs-Elysées in Paris.
In December 2016, after 6 months of renovation work, Lancel re-opened its historical premises, place de l'Opéra.
Communication
When Richemont bought Lancel, the brand repositionned on haut de gamme and luxury. A new logo was designed and new concept stores were launched.
In 2006, the brand conceived a baseline around the idea of "French Légèreté", a chic, carefree and a slightly irreverent spirit.[4][3] The brand launched its website during the same year and then developed it a year later.
In 2015, Lancel took a new direction and positioned as a lifestyle brand. The French house teamed up with Wallpaper magazine for a collection of travel items: a set of city guides, a passport holder and a key ring.[7] Lancel redesigned its logo and used a new, more modern typography.
References
- "Richemont's Lancel: a risky bet on a struggling brand". Reuters. 28 October 2013.
- "Company Overview of Lancel Sogedi S.A." Bloomberg. April 2017.
- "Lancel Handbags, carrying the legacy". Luxos.com.
- "Lancel". wikiluxurybrands.com. April 2012.
- "Lancel + Wallpaper* Itinéraire collection". wallpaper.com. March 2015.
- "Lancel brings a sexy bag". Philstar.com. September 2010.
- "Lancel Launches New Line and E-Commerce". WWD. April 2015.
- "Lancel's Leonello Borghi". Luxos.com. 2011.
- "Ode to Love: Daligramme Bags by Lancel". Luxury Insider. January 2012.
- "Lancel revisits the Daligramme". Vogue. July 2012.
- "Lancel bags Zhou Xun". China Daily. 2008.
- "Lancel reveals new Brigitte Bardot line and concept store". Philstar.com. November 2010.
- "Lancel stages meet-cute between woman and handbag". Luxury Daily. September 2014.
- "Lancel launches a new line of bags and its e-commerce". Fashion Network. April 2015.
- "Lancel embarks on multi-city tour to mark 140th anniversary". Luxurydaily.com. September 8, 2016.
- "Report: Richemont to Sell Lancel?". Accessories Magazine. September 2013.
- "Richemont appoints Nomura to search suitors for Lancel". Fashionunited.co.uk. 26 September 2013.
- "Richemont put leather goods brand Lancel for sale". International leather maker. September 2013.
- "Richemont Said to Hire Adviser to Sell Lancel Luxury Bags". Bloomberg. September 2013.
- "Richemont Said to Hire Adviser to Sell Purse Maker Lancel". Businessoffashion.com. 20 September 2013.
- "Richemont to Invest in Brands Rather Than Divest". The Wall Street Journal. November 2013.