Miss Dior

Miss Dior dates to 1947, shortly after the Dior fashion line debuted its acclaimed New Look collection.[1] That perfume, a floral chypre with leather and galbanum notes,[1] Miss Dior was created by Paul Vacher and Jean Carles.

Miss Dior appeared in many different iterations over the following years.

Miss Dior Chérie Eau de Parfum was launched in 2005 as a flanker to Miss Dior (perfumery’s term for a sequel or spinoff), intended to draw a younger audience.[2] Developed by Christine Nagel with the instructions to create something “audacious, impertinent, and gourmand”.[3] Miss Dior Chérie most prominently featured unconventional strawberry and caramelized popcorn notes, though it also had a popular patchouli fraction reminiscent of Chanel’s 2001 hit Coco Mademoiselle,[4] as well as mandarin, violet, jasmine, and musk. Elle also noted it had an antecedent in Thierry Mugler Angel (1992), which popularized sweet, food-like fragrances.[5] Dior’s fashion designer and creative director John Galliano described the fragrance as “delicious”.[6]

In 2009, after hiring François Demachy to serve as in-house perfumer, Dior released a flanker to Miss Dior Chérie called Miss Dior Chérie L’Eau, signed by Demachy.[7] British Vogue described this perfume as a “sparkling and distinctive floral scent blended with notes of tangy yet spicy bitter orange, Gardenia and white musks”.[7] In 2010, Dior released an eau de toilette version of Miss Dior Chérie, which also advertised additional floral notes as a twist on the original.[8]

In 2011, Miss Dior and Miss Dior Chérie (eau de parfum) underwent significant changes.  Miss Dior was revised and reimagined by Demachy and this fragrance was renamed Miss Dior Original.[1] Miss Dior Chérie became simply Miss Dior and though it retained similar packaging, the fragrance was significantly altered, also by Demachy although with less fanfare, and since then has born little resemblance to Nagel’s creation.[9] These changes were part of Dior owner LVMH’s efforts to gain greater control over their perfume formulations.[3] Prior to bringing on Demachy to create its perfumes in house, Dior has contracted out its fragrances and consequently Givaudan held the formula for Nagel’s creation.[3] Adjustments allowed Dior to take over Miss Dior Chérie without violating Givaudan’s copyright.[3]

Miss Dior and other versions of it were the subject of a 2013 exhibition at the Grand Palais in Paris.[1]