Petersham ribbon
Petersham ribbon, also called Petersham facing or simply Petersham, is a thick, stiff, flexible corded ribbon usually made out of either cotton, rayon, viscose, or a cotton/ rayon or viscose blend of fibers and used as facing by milliners and tailors. Petersham is frequently watered on both sides and comes with a scalloped edge. It is woven so that once steamed, it will take on and support a particular curve of fabric. This makes it useful for obtaining a smooth edge on the brim of a hat, for example, without forming puckers or wrinkles which would result from the use of traditional flat ribbon or other flat fabric.[1] It is also useful as an alternative to bias tape for making fabric conform closely to the shape of the body wearing it— in a corset, for example, or along the waistline of a pair of trousers or a skirt. Petersham is utilized in couture sewing as a form of interfacing as way to stabilize waistbands.[2]
Petersham is very similar to grosgrain ribbon in appearance: both have closely spaced horizontal ridges, but Petersham has a flexible picot edge allowing it to be shaped with an iron, whereas grosgrain cannot be shaped this way.[3]
Petersham is named after the eighteenth century English lord Viscount Petersham who invented an overcoat and breeches made of a special heavy woollen cloth with a round nap surface.[4] For this reason, "Petersham" is often (but not always) capitalized.
References
- Sanders-Forge, Erica; Neukam, Judith; Fresia, Carol; et al., eds. (2011). Threads sewing guide. Newtown, CT: Taunton. p. 204. ISBN 978-1-60085-144-5.
- Shaeffer, Claire B. (1994). Couture sewing techniques. Newton, CT: Taunton Press. ISBN 0942391888. OCLC 28421993.
- Betzina, Sandra (2000). Huxley, Susan (ed.). Power sewing step-by-step. Newtown, CT: Taunton. p. 72. ISBN 1-56158-363-4.
- Norris, Herbert; Curtis, Oswald (1998). Nineteenth-century costume and fashion. Minneola, NY: Dover. p. 44. ISBN 978-0486402925.