Stampede Trail

The Stampede Trail is a road and trail located in the Denali Borough in the U.S. state of Alaska. A paved or maintained gravel road for 8 miles (13 km) on its eastern end as far west as Eight Mile Lake, the remainder of the route consists of a primitive, remote, and, at times, dangerous hiking or ATV (All-terrain vehicle) trail following a path where the original road has deteriorated over the years. The route ends at an abandoned antimony mine at 63.740739°N 150.379229°W / 63.740739; -150.379229 along Stampede Creek, a couple miles past Stampede Airport's grass airstrip.

Historically, access to the east end of the trail was gained from the Alaska Railroad. Today, the primary access to the trail is from the George Parks Highway (Alaska Route 3) which opened in the early 1970s. The Parks Highway intersects the trail at milepost 251.1, two miles north of the center of Healy. Though this intersection marks the present-day eastern terminus of the Stampede Road, Lignite Road continues a few miles east from this intersection to the railroad tracks and the Nenana River.

The trail is located near the northern boundary of Denali National Park in a small finger of State of Alaska public land that extends into the national park. The valley, known as the Stampede Valley or the Stampede Corridor, is mostly low-lying tundra and watersheds.

The Stampede Trail has been the subject of international attention since the 1992 death of Christopher McCandless, whose remains were found in an abandoned bus deep inside the wilderness about 28 miles down the trail. The bus was first brought to the public's attention by Jon Krakauer in an Outside magazine article; a book in 1996 and a film in 2007 followed. The bus' infamy led to an increase in hikers along the trail as well as complaints of a corresponding increase in unprepared hikers requiring assistance in the backcountry. Many rescues and deaths occurred annually along the trail. The Alaska State Troopers and the Tri-Valley Fire Department (Healy) were primarily responsible for these rescues and assistance. In 2020, citing safety reasons, the bus was removed and shipped to the University of Alaska Museum of the North.[1][2]

The trail currently receives limited tour traffic. In 2015, Alaska Travel Adventures stopped operating Jeep tours along the trail due to deteriorating trail conditions and frequent mechanical problems. Denali Tundra Tours ceased operations of an Argo tour in 2016. As of 2019, Stampede Excursions continues to operate three daily tours along the trail in Pinzgauer 6x6 military grade trucks as well as Volvo C306 6x6 personnel carriers. This tour is called the Denali Backcountry Safari.[3] While they pick up passengers from all Denali area hotels, the 6x6 tours actually begin at their Eight Mile Lake Base Camp at mile 7.5 of the Stampede Road. Their pavilion and other associated buildings are the last permanent structures along the Stampede Road. All tours turn around a few miles east of the Savage River. Traversing the beaver ponds, "mud flats,” and crossing the Teklanika River are major obstacles preventing most vehicles from continuing more than 5 miles or so down the trail.

During the fall, hunting traffic along the trail is heavy as the area is prime habitat for moose. Many hunters use ATVs or Argos to access hunting camps. Moose hunting in this area generally yields high success rates. Winter travel by snowmobile, dog sled, or tracked vehicle is much easier than summer travel after the boggy tundra, beaver ponds, and rivers freeze.

History

The Stampede Trail began as the "Lignite to Kantishna" mining trail blazed in 1903 by prospectors drawn to the Kantishna region by the discovery of placer gold. In the 1930s miner Earl Pilgrim[4] used the trail to access his antimony claims on Stampede Creek at 63.740739°N 150.379229°W / 63.740739; -150.379229, above the Clearwater Fork of the Toklat River. For many years, the mine was accessed through the use of a winter trail. Antimony ore was shipped east to the railroad through the use of “Cat Trains,” sleds loaded with ore and towed by Caterpillar Bulldozers. Fuel and supplies for the mine were backhauled in the same way. The overland cat trains could take 3 or more days of travel time and February was the generally the best month for such winter trail travel.

In 1960, Yutan Construction won a contract from the new state of Alaska to upgrade the trail as part of Alaska's Pioneer Road Program, building a road for trucks to haul ore from the mine year-round for transshipment to the railroad at Lignite (near the present day town of Healy.) Construction was discontinued in 1961 after only 47.5 miles (76.4 km) of road were built. No bridges were constructed over the several rivers it crossed. In 1963 maintenance was halted and the route promptly became impassable for road vehicles by the soft permafrost and seasonal flooding.

The trail has since been used by backcountry travelers on foot, bicycle, dog sleds, snowmachines, and all-terrain vehicles. The trail's main obstacle is crossing the Teklanika River during the summer months when the river swells with snowmelt. The Alaska State Troopers report that several rescues were necessary every year at the river crossing. In August 2010, high water resulted in the drowning death of Claire Ackermann, a hiker from Switzerland and in July 2019 Veranika Nikanava of Belarus was also swept downstream and drowned.[5] Hundreds of hikers attempted to reach Bus 142 every year,[6] until its removal in June 2020.

Bus 142
Hikers take a break at Bus 142 on the Stampede Trail.
Further information: Into the Wild (book), Into the Wild (film), Jon Krakauer, and Christopher McCandless

Fairbanks City Transit System Bus 142 was a 1946 International Harvester K-5 bus abandoned in a clearing at 63°52′5.96″N 149°46′8.39″W along the Stampede Trail near Denali National Park. It was originally one of three buses used by the Yutan Construction Company to provide site accommodations for the construction crew from Fairbanks that worked on road upgrades in 1960–1961. It was towed on location by a Caterpillar D8 bulldozer as the engine had been removed. It contained a couple of beds and a wood-burning stove. When the Stampede Mine ceased operations in the 1970s, the buses were removed from the trail, but Bus 142 was left behind due to a broken rear axle to serve as a shelter for hunters, trappers, and visitors.

The bus gained notoriety in January 1993 when Outside magazine published an article written by Jon Krakauer titled "Death of an Innocent"[7] describing the death of Christopher McCandless, an American hitchhiker who lived in the bus during the summer of 1992 while attempting to survive off the Alaskan wilderness only to die of starvation three and a half months later.

The bus, also known as the "Magic Bus" as per McCandless's own writings, became a pilgrimage site for visitors seeking the location where McCandless perished. The 2007 film version of Jon Krakauer's 1996 book about McCandless, Into the Wild, revived more interest in the bus.

In 2013, Dave Gill from the United Kingdom visited the bus as part of a British documentary publishing project. He discovered that visitors had shot at the bus and caused damage, resulting in its accelerated deterioration.[8]

In September 2017, Circle the Globe Productions filmed a pilot episode for a possible new TV series along the trail and at the bus. Logistics and equipment were provided by Stampede Excursions and Alaska Mountaineering School. The series is hosted by J.J. Kelley, titled "Off the Map,” and was set to premiere on the Travel Channel on July 18, 2018. The full episode is also available online on Vimeo.[9]

Since the death of Christopher McCandless in 1992, two hikers died attempting to reach Bus 142. In 2010, Claire Ackermann of Switzerland drowned in the Teklanika River while attempting to cross by tying herself to a rope spanning the fast-moving river when she lost her footing and drowned before she could be cut free.[10] In 2019, Veranika Nikanava of Belarus also drowned while attempting to cross the river tied to a rope.[5] Subsequently, hikers were strongly urged to avoid tying themselves to ropes as a method of crossing Alaskan rivers.[8] After Nikanava’s death, her husband is attempting to raise awareness and funds for a cable crossing or bridge at this location.

On June 18, 2020, various government agencies coordinated a training mission with the Alaska Army National Guard to remove the bus, deemed a public safety issue after numerous visitor rescue incidents and the deaths of Ackermann and Nikanava. It was flown out of the wilderness by a CH-47 Chinook helicopter to Healy and then by flatbed truck to an undisclosed location.[11][1][12] On September 24, 2020, the Museum of The North[13] at the University of Alaska in Fairbanks announced that it had become the permanent home of Bus 142, which will be restored and an outdoor exhibit will be created.[2]

References
  1. "Nearly 30 years after 'Into the Wild' hiker's death, infamous bus removed from Alaska wilderness". KTVA. June 18, 2020. Archived from the original on June 21, 2020. Retrieved 2020-06-19.
  2. Osborne, Ryan. "Famous McCandless 'Bus 142' moved to UAF's Museum of the North". Alaska's News Source. Retrieved 2020-09-25.
  3. Capps, Kris (2018-05-11). "Explore Denali National Park via air or land". Fairbanks Daily News-Miner. Retrieved 2018-05-18.
  4. "Earl Pilgrim".
  5. Madeline McGee (July 26, 2019). "Newlywed woman dies after being swept away by river on way to 'Into the Wild' bus near Healy". Anchorage Daily News. Archived from the original on November 30, 2020.
  6. "Hiking The Stampede Trail". Hiking The Stampede Trail. Archived from the original on 2011-11-29. Retrieved 2011-07-15.
  7. Jon Krakauer. "Death of an Innocent – How Christopher McCandless lost his way in the wilds" (PDF). Outside Online.
  8. "Hiking The Stampede Trail to The Magic Bus – Into The Wild". Vague Direction. Archived from the original on February 19, 2020.
  9. "The Chris McCandless Story". Travel Channel. Retrieved 2018-07-11.
  10. Kaylin Bettinger (August 16, 2010). "Woman drowns trying to ford Teklanika River". Anchorage Daily News. Archived from the original on October 30, 2013.
  11. "Alaska National Guard airlifts "Into the Wild" bus from Stampede Trail".
  12. Holland, Eva (June 18, 2020). "Alaska Airlifts 'Into the Wild' Bus Out of the Wild". Outside Online. Retrieved 2020-06-19.
  13. "Bus 142 | Museum of The North". University of Alaska. September 24, 2020. Retrieved November 30, 2020.

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