Christopher Nemeth

Born Christopher Louis Nemeth in Birmingham, Nemeth studied painting at the Camberwell College of Arts, London, between 1979 and 1982, when he graduated.[1] Among his paintings were works using glue, sand and printing on deconstructed old clothing used as a canvas.[1] He subsequently decided to start making clothing for himself, as he could not find garments to suit his tastes.[1]

At first, Nemeth hand-sewed his designs from discarded materials, including his own paintings.[1] He was particularly known for his use of linen mail bags found discarded on the streets of London, but also used rope and charity shop clothing to assemble his pieces.[1] He then began selling his work through the Kensington Market, London.[1] His clothing was mainly androgynous menswear, although he produced some designs specifically for women.[2]

In 1985, Nemeth met the photographer Mark Lebon, who showcased his designs in a shoot for i-D magazine.[1] This led to Nemeth's designs being retailed in the Mayfair boutique Bazaar.[1] At the same time, Lebon introduced Nemeth to the jewellery and accessories designer and stylist Judy Blame, who had co-founded The House of Beauty and Culture with the shoe designer John Moore.[1] Soon afterwards, Nemeth met his future wife, Keiko, the first person to sell his work in Japan, at a John Galliano fashion show.[2] In June 1986 he decided to relocate to Tokyo to be with Keiko, where he sold his clothing through the Sector boutique in Harajuku.[1][2] Sector also retailed Blame's work and the early work of Galliano.[1] In 1993, Nemeth took over Sector, renaming it after himself, and opened branches in Osaka, Fukuoka and Nagoya.[1] He continued to use recycled fabrics, combining discarded offcuts and remnants from tailoring shops into patchwork yardage to use for his designs.[1]

Although Nemeth achieved popularity and a cult following in Japan, as a result of his move, his reputation back in Britain has remained low-profile.[2] His name is better known among fashion insiders than among the general public, with his higher-profile admirers including designers Martin Margiela and Rei Kawakubo.[1] Kawakubo, who is said to have been inspired by Nemeth's deconstructive approach,[2] sold his work through her Dover Street Market in London.[1] In 2015, Kim Jones presented a menswear collection for Louis Vuitton inspired by Nemeth, and celebrating his life and work.[3] The collection incorporated Nemeth's own prints, and jewellery designed by Blame.[4] Jones, who is a renowned collector of 1980s London clubwear design,[5] described Nemeth as "the most important designer to come out of London alongside Vivienne Westwood. He is Savile Row, he is the street, he is the club."[3]

Nemeth died on 22 September 2010 from lung cancer.[6] Nemeth's daughters, Lui and Riyo Nemeth, have launched a venue for young designers and artists in London called Primitive, designed to carry on their father's legacy.[2]