Dave Graham (climber)

David Ethan Graham (born November 10, 1981) is a professional rock climber. Professing to enjoy bouldering the most, he is one of the elite sport climbers and boulderers of his generation. Graham repeats classic routes or boulder problems as well as performing cutting-edge first ascents. He is known for climbing, in 2005 an 8C (V15) boulder problem (The Story Of Two Worlds, Cresciano, Switzerland). He is also known for his stance against grade-inflation and for his strong anti-chipping ethic. He writes an ongoing blog for the website of Climbing Magazine.

Dave Graham
Dave Graham bouldering in Fontainebleau
Personal information
Born (1981-11-10) November 10, 1981
Maine
OccupationRock climber
Height5 ft 10 in (179 cm)
Weight139 lb (63 kg)
Climbing career
Type of climberBouldering, Sport climbing
Highest grade
Known forClimbing many difficult boulder problems
Updated on November 24, 2017.

Biography

Born in Maine, Graham was introduced to climbing in 1997 by one of his skiing teammates. Within a year, he climbed a 8b+ (5.14a) route (The Present). Quickly, he became one of the strongest climbers in the United States. In 2000, he moved in Europe, where he managed to climb two 9a+ (5.15a) routes and one 8C+ (V16) boulder problem.

In 2005, he climbed an 8C (V15) boulder problem (The Story Of Two Worlds, Cresciano, SUI), and his first 9a+ (5.15a) route (Coup de Grace, Val Bavona, SUI).

Rock climbing

As of November 2017, Graham climbed 455 routes between 8a (5.13b) and 9a+ (5.15a), of which 143 were onsighted:[1]

  • 1 9b
  • 4 9a+
  • 13 9a
  • 41 8c+
  • 66 8c
  • 82 8b+ (of which 3 onsighted)
  • 92 8b (of which 31 onsighted)
  • 91 8a+ (of which 61 onsighted)
  • 66 8a (of which 48 onsighted)

Redpointed routes

9b (5.15b):

Ali Hulk Sit Start Extension Total - Rodellar (SPA) - September 2020 - Fifth ascent[2]

9a+ (5.15a):

9a (5.14d):

  • Chocholoco - Carros (FRA)- October 14, 2009[6]
  • Abyss - Gorges du Loup (FRA) - October 3, 2009[7]
  • Kryptonite - Rifle (Colorado, USA) - September 14, 2008
  • Bunda De Fora - Acephale (CAN) - September 6, 2007
  • Ali-Hulk (de pie) - Rodellar (ESP) - June 27, 2007
  • Esclatamasters - Perles (ESP) - March 8, 2007 - Second ascent. First ascent by Ramón Julian Puigblanque[8]
  • A Muerte - Siurana (ESP) - December 7, 2006 - Third ascent[9]
  • Bain de Sang - Saint-Loup (SUI) - April 13, 2005
  • Psychedelic - Gorilla Cliffs (USA) - November 18, 2001 - First ascent
  • Action directe - Frankenjura (GER) - May 21, 2001 - Quarta salita[10]

Boulder problems

As of November 2018, Graham had climbed about 800 boulder problems between 8A (V11) and 8C (V15), of which 4 were onsighted and 29 flashed:[11]

  • 1 8C+
  • 17 8C
  • 69 8B+
  • 163 8B
  • 213 8A+ (of which 1 flashed and 2 onsighted)
  • 246 8A (of which 28 flashed and 2 onsighted)

8C (V15):

  • Meadowlark Lemon - Gateway Canyon (USA) - January 8, 2013 - Second ascent. First ascent by Paul Robinson del 2012[12]
  • The Wheel of Life - Hollow Mountain Cave (AUS) - June 8, 2012 - Sixth ascent. First ascent by Dai Koyamada in 2004. Composed of 65 moves, it links four different boulder problems. Although it is climbed without rope, it is considered to be almost a climbing route. It is commonly graded 8C as a boulder problem, and 9a as a route. Graham stated that it was "not possible to compare it to other boulder problems, due to its length", and that it was in a league above 9a routes he had climbed, possibly even a 9a+.[13][14]
  • Paint it Black - Rocky Mountain National Park (USA) - April 18, 2012 - Third ascent. First ascent by Daniel Woods in 2012[15]
  • The Ice Knife - Guanella Pass (USA) - October 18, 2011 - First ascent[16]
  • Warrior Up - Mt Evans / Wolverine Land (USA) - September 4, 2010 - Second ascent. First ascent by Daniel Woods[17]
  • Big Paw - Chironico (SUI) - November 27, 2008 - First ascent
  • The Island - Fontainebleau (FRA)- April 7, 2008 - First ascent[18]
  • From Dirt Grows The Flowers - Chironico (SUI) - March 7, 2005 - First ascent[19]
  • The Story Of Two Worlds - Cresciano (SUI) - January 9, 2005 - First ascent[20]
  • Foundation's Edge - Fionnay (SUI) - October 15, 2013 - First Ascent[21]

See also

References

  1. Graham, Dave. "List of climbed routes". 8a.nu. Retrieved November 27, 2017.
  2. ""Ali Hulk Sit Start Extension Total" (9b) by Dave Graham". October 8, 2020. Retrieved October 11, 2020.
  3. "Dave Graham and Ethan Pringle climb Thor's Hammer at Flatanger". October 6, 2015. Retrieved October 6, 2015.
  4. "Dave Graham ripete Realization a Ceuse". July 31, 2007. Retrieved January 7, 2012.
  5. Mick Ryan. "David Graham climbs Coup de Grace 9a/9a+". Retrieved January 7, 2012.
  6. "Dave Graham 9a a Nizza". October 17, 2009. Retrieved January 7, 2012.
  7. Björn Pohl. "Abyss by Dave G". Retrieved January 7, 2012.
  8. Dougald MacDonald. "Two 5.14c Routes in a Day". Archived from the original on September 6, 2008. Retrieved January 7, 2012.
  9. Dan Dewell. "Graham A Muerte". Archived from the original on January 11, 2007. Retrieved August 27, 2012.
  10. "Dave Graham: Action Direct". May 29, 2001. Retrieved January 7, 2012.
  11. Graham, Dave. "List of climbed boulder problems". 8a.nu. Retrieved November 27, 2017.
  12. (in Spanish) "Jon Cardwell repite 'The game' 8C y Dave Graham 'Meadowlark lemon' 8C". January 9, 2013. Retrieved January 23, 2013.
  13. Graham, Dave. "Graham comments on The Wheel of Life". 8a.nu. Retrieved 19 June 2012.
  14. Björn Pohl (June 10, 2012). "Graham repeats The wheel of life". Retrieved June 15, 2012.
  15. "Paint it Black 8C terza salita". April 29, 2012. Archived from the original on May 10, 2012. Retrieved April 29, 2012.
  16. Björn Pohl. "Ice knife 8C, by Graham". Retrieved April 2, 2012.
  17. "Daniel Woods Fa's New V15 & Graham Quickly Grabs the Second". August 9, 2010. Archived from the original on December 3, 2010. Retrieved January 7, 2012.
  18. Dougald MacDonald. "Graham Puts Up V15 in Cradle of Bouldering". Archived from the original on January 8, 2010. Retrieved January 7, 2012.
  19. Dougald MacDonald. "New V15 for Dave Graham". Archived from the original on April 25, 2009. Retrieved January 7, 2012.
  20. Dougald MacDonald. "Graham's Hardest Yet". Archived from the original on June 15, 2012. Retrieved January 7, 2012.
  21. "Graham Makes FA of Foundation's Edge (V15) in Switzerland". Rock and Ice. Retrieved 2019-01-06.
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