Realization (climb)

Biographie, or Realization, is a sport climbing route on a crag on the southern face of the 2,016-metre (6,614 ft) Montagne de Céüse near Gap and Céüse, France.

Biographie
Realization
The Montagne de Céüse, site of Biographie
LocationCéüse, France
Coordinates44.514196°N 5.943432°E / 44.514196; 5.943432
Climbing AreaMontagne de Céüse
Route TypeSport Climb
Pitches1
Rating9a+ (5.15a)
GradeI
Bolted byJean-Christophe Lafaille, 1989.
First free ascentChris Sharma, July 2001.

The route was first successfully climbed in July 2001 by Chris Sharma,[1][2][3][4] who did not grade the climb. It is generally considered to be 9a+ (5.15a). Among the routes that have been repeated by anyone else except the first ascensionist, Biographie is the first ascent to be recognized with a 9a+ rating making it the most difficult at that time. However, in 1996 Fred Rouhling proposed even harder grade 9b (5.15b) for his unrepeated climb Akira. Since 2001 there have been ascents of other routes which are recognized and rated to be more difficult.

Sectors Berlin and Biographie

Name dispute

The name of the route was disputed: routes in France are named by the person who first bolted the route, while in the U.S. they are typically named by the first person to successfully climb the route. In 1989, Jean-Christophe Lafaille bolted the whole pitch and named it Biographie. In 1996, Arnaud Petit added an anchor in the middle of the route, and did the first ascent of the first half in that year. Around 2007 the anchor chains marking the end of the route which Arnaud Petit climbed were removed from the wall. In July 2001 Sharma became the first person to climb the full route and gave it the name "Realization", following the American way. Since then, Sharma has said that "most of the time I actually call the route Biographie".[5][6]

Subsequent ascents

Biographie has been repeated by:

References
  1. "Chris Sharma climbs Biographie!". planetmountain.com. 19 July 2001. Retrieved 16 May 2013.
  2. Roberto Fioravanti (20 September 2001). "Chris Sharma, the energy of Biographie". planetmountain.com. Retrieved 16 May 2013.
  3. "Chris Sharma, the video of Biographie at Ceuse". planetmountain.com. 14 May 2012. Retrieved 16 May 2013.
  4. ukclimbing.com (July 2001). "Chris Sharma completes new Ceuse route - F9a(+?), US 5.15". ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 16 May 2013.
  5. "Biographie and the importance of the names - The history of the route". up-climbing.com. 18 August 2010. Archived from the original on 6 March 2016. Retrieved 16 May 2013.
  6. Björn Pohl (August 2010). "Chris Sharma about "that route at Céüse"". ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 16 May 2013.
  7. "Millet repeats Realization!". planetmountain.com. 27 May 2004. Retrieved 16 May 2013.
  8. "Patxi Usobiaga repeats Realization 9a+ at Ceuse". planetmountain.com. 2 August 2004. Retrieved 16 May 2013.
  9. "Dave Graham sends Realisation at Ceuse". planetmountain.com. 31 July 2007. Retrieved 16 May 2013.
  10. Dougald MacDonald. "Pringle Sends Realization". climbing.com. Retrieved 16 May 2013.
  11. "Repeated Realization - Sixth repetition by Ramon Julian". up-climbing.com. 26 September 2008. Archived from the original on 6 March 2016. Retrieved 16 May 2013.
  12. "Ceuse hard sends by Enzo Oddo, David Lama and Alizée Dufraisse". planetmountain.com. 24 August 2010. Retrieved 16 May 2013.
  13. "Jonathan Siegrist Sends Biographie/Realization (5.15a)". rockandice.com. 2 June 2014. Archived from the original on 5 June 2014. Retrieved 2 June 2014.
  14. "Alex Megos encadena "Realization" en tres pegues". escalando.org. 17 July 2014. Retrieved 17 July 2014.
  15. "CONFIRMADO: Adam Ondra encadenó Realization 9a+ (5.15a". escalando.org. 24 July 2014. Retrieved 24 July 2014.
  16. "Biographie, 9a+, by Amma". ukclimbing.com. 8 August 2014. Retrieved 30 May 2016.
  17. "Biographie, 9a+, by Ghisolfi". ukclimbing.com. 22 June 2015. Retrieved 30 May 2016.
  18. "Jon Cardwell Sends Biographie/Realization (5.15a)". rockandice.com. 25 May 2016. Archived from the original on 28 September 2017. Retrieved 30 May 2016.
  19. "Sean Bailey, 20, Clips Chains on Biographie/Realization (5.15a)". www.rockandice.com. Archived from the original on 2017-06-11. Retrieved 2017-05-16.
  20. "Margo Hayes Sends Biographie". instagram.com. Retrieved 2017-09-24.
  21. Boston.com
  22. "Piotr Schab 8c first ascent onsight at Cuenca and Biographie at Céüse".
  23. "Stefano Carnati a Céüse chiude Biographie".
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