Dr. Jart+

Dr. Jart+ (Hangul: 닥터자르트; read simply as Doctor Jart) is a South Korean skin care brand. It was created in 2004 by entrepreneur Lee Jin-wook, with consultation from dermatologist Dr. Jung Sung-jae.[1] Their name is an abbreviation of "Doctor Joins Art", which reflects their positioning philosophy as "a fusion of dermatological science and art".[2]

Dr. Jart+
Founded2004
FounderLee Jin-wook
Headquarters,
Area served
Worldwide
ProductsSkin care
Revenue
  • US$500 million (2019)
ParentHave & Be
Estée Lauder Companies
Websitedrjart.com

Dr. Jart+'s best-selling products include moisturizers from their Ceramidin and Cicapair lines, "rubber" face masks and BB creams.[3][4] The brand is noted as the first to introduce BB creams to the American market in 2011.[5][6] Dr. Jart's parent company, Have & Be, was acquired by Estée Lauder in 2019.[7]

History

In spring 2003, entrepreneur Lee Jin-wook (Korean: 이진욱) was waiting in the lobby of a dermatology clinic in Gangnam, Seoul, as he observed a group of young women enthused by a product on display, which was BB cream.[8] He began to research the product closely, and later left his post at an architectural firm to focus on his venture. Dr. Jung Sung-jae (Korean: 정성재) had been working out of his own Seoul practice since 2001, where he was constantly testing new treatments for his patients with severe skin issues.[9] Lee approached him to invest and consult on Dr. Jart+, with the intent to bring Jung's formulations to a wider audience.[9] The name "Jart" was initially coined as a portmanteau of "Jung" and "art".[8] Jung remains as the brand's chief dermatologist.[10]

A product from Dr. Jart+'s Water Fuse collection on display.

Dr. Jart+ was in development for three years before being exclusively introduced to dermatology clinics.[1] It was launched in December 2004 with a capital of 50 million won (roughly US$47,000 in 2019).[8] Dr. Jart+ was first sold through e-commerce, which Lee described as a "rarity" in the cosmetics industry.[8] Its revenue in 2005 only amounted to 500 million won, but began to increase through word-of-mouth on online retailer SkinRx Lab. By 2008, its sales amounted to seven billion won.[8]

In its early days, Lee focused extensively on exporting Dr. Jart+ outside of Asia, strategizing that the brand's popularity in Asian territories would follow after pioneering more "difficult" markets first.[11] The brand partnered with Japanese department store Takashimaya in June 2009 to offer their products at its now-defunct Fifth Avenue location, which effectively made Dr. Jart+ the first Korean brand since Amorepacific to have a presence in New York.[8] It entered the greater American market in early 2011 with cosmetics retailer Sephora, offering two BB creams at ten of its locations at the time, which was a "hit".[11][5] The New York Times credited this launch as "[paving] the way for a Korean beauty invasion of the United States" and spawning iterations from L'Oreál to Dior.[5] The brand has since expanded to selling 50 products at all Sephora outlets.[11]

Products

A Dr. Jart+ gift set featuring an assortment of samples from their Cicapair and BB Cream lines.

Dr. Jart+ is composed of nine lines, each focused on a specific ingredient or skin issue:

  • Cicapair — utilizes tiger grass (centella asiatica) to "[calm] redness and [soothe] irritation"
  • Ceramidin — 5-Cera Complex (ceramides) to "restore and repair the skin barrier"
  • Water Fuse — AquaMineral Complex (minerals) to impart skin hydration
  • BB Cream
  • Dermaclear — Hydrogen Bio Water (micellar solution) to cleanse, exfoliate skin
  • Water Drop — hyaluronic acid; features a "unique emulsion system" that "bursts into tiny water droplets"
  • Peptidin — 8-Peptide Complex (peptides)
  • Focuspot — patches composed of "micro tips" to target specific conditions
  • V7 — V7 Multi-Vitamin Complex (vitamin B3, C, F, K3, B5, E, and H)

Corporate affairs

Identity

Dr. Jart+ eschews celebrity endorsements in favor of animation to communicate their brand.[11] Dr. Jart+'s branding and packaging was refreshed by design firm Pentagram in 2018, starting with the international roll-out of their newly-created Ceramidin line.[12][2][13]

Dr. Jart+ is considered to be among the forefront of brands leading the Korean beauty wave. In an article for Racked, Ju Rhyu, a business-to-business consultant, believes that Dr. Jart+ is keen to "downplay" this angle, like competitors Amorepacific and Belif. These companies communicate a "very clear brand identity and the K-beauty message is more secondary," in an effort to secure brand loyalty and longevity. In an email by Dr. Jart+'s vice president of marketing, Susan Tsui, they state that the brand is "proud of its Korean roots", yet "Dr. Jart+ is fueled by our commitment to adhere to what we were founded on, art and skincare."[14]

Advertising

Dr. Jart+ has been the exclusive skin care sponsor of designer brand Opening Ceremony at New York Fashion Week since 2015.[15][16] The brand has stocked their products in their retail stores since 2011.[15]

References

  1. Austin, Clare (February 27, 2017). "Just what the doctor ordered: the philosophy of Dr.Jart+". The Moodie Davitt Report. Retrieved December 5, 2019.
  2. "Dr. Jart+ — Story". Pentagram. Retrieved December 5, 2019.
  3. Hunt, Amy (July 1, 2019). "THIS incredible, affordable skincare brand is set to be your new obsession". Woman & Home. Retrieved December 5, 2019.
  4. Hwang, You-mee (July 22, 2016). "K-beauty attracts investment from international big shots". The Korea Herald. Retrieved December 5, 2019.
  5. Meltzer, Marisa (October 29, 2014). "South Korea Exports Its Glow". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved December 5, 2019.
  6. Branch, Kate (January 19, 2018). "The K-Beauty Guide of the Moment, According to a Korean Model, Musician, and Budding Actress". Vogue. Retrieved December 5, 2019.
  7. "The Estée Lauder Companies to Acquire Dr. Jart+". Business Wire. November 18, 2019. Retrieved December 5, 2019.
  8. Nam, Seung-ryul (June 19, 2009). "[창업열전] 기능성 화장품 '해브앤비' 이진욱 대표, 온라인서 출발···백화점 입성". The Korea Daily. Retrieved December 5, 2019.
  9. "Shop Dr. Jart+". Birchbox. Retrieved December 5, 2019.
  10. "Is it Worth Wearing A Facemask Overnight?". Yahoo Beauty. October 2, 2014. Retrieved December 5, 2019.
  11. Collins, Allison (May 29, 2018). "Dr. Jart Founder Talks BB Cream and 'Crazy' Meetings". WWD. Retrieved December 5, 2019.
  12. Baird, Richard (January 15, 2018). "New Package Design for Dr Jart+ by Pentagram". BP&O. Retrieved December 5, 2019.
  13. "TECSOLA Skincare". Tuesday, March 24, 2020
  14. Wischhover, Cheryl (August 3, 2017). "Why No One Single Brand Is Winning K-Beauty". Racked. Retrieved December 5, 2019.
  15. "KOREA Magazine July 2015". Korea Magazine. Docuhut. July 2015. Retrieved December 5, 2019.
  16. Opening Ceremony x Dr.Jart NYFW18, retrieved December 5, 2019
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