Futaba Ito

Futaba Ito (伊藤 ふたば, Ito Futaba, born 25 April 2002) is a Japanese professional rock climber, sport climber and boulderer. She participates in both bouldering and lead climbing competitions. She won the IFSC Climbing Asian Youth Championships in lead and bouldering events in 2016, as well as Bouldering Japan Cup in 2017.[3] She participated in combined and speed events at the 2018 Asian Games.

Futaba Ito
Futaba Ito at the 2018 Climbing World Cup
Personal information
Nationality Japan
Born (2002-04-25) 25 April 2002[1]
Morioka, Iwate Prefecture, Japan[2]
OccupationProfessional sport climber
Height160 cm (5.2 ft)
Weight46 kg (101 lb)
Websitehttp://futaba-ito.com/
Climbing career
Type of climberBouldering, Lead climbing
Medal record
Asian Championships
Winner 2018 Kurayoshi Bouldering
World Youth Championships
2016 Guangzhou (Youth B) Bouldering
Winner2017 Innsbruck (Youth B) Lead
2017 Innsbruck (Youth B) Bouldering
2017 Innsbruck (Youth B) Combined
2018 Moscow (Youth A) Lead
2018 Moscow (Youth A) Bouldering

Biography

Ito was born on 25 April 2002, in Morioka, Iwate Prefecture, Japan.[2] She started climbing in her third year of elementary school, encouraged by her father who did sport climbing as a hobby. Her talent was apparent from early on; on her first day of climbing, she reportedly surprised her father by climbing 15 meters up high without stopping, despite not having had any prior climbing experience.[4]

She started taking part in public tournaments in 2014, when she came in second place at the 17th Junior Olympic Cup in the under-Youth B age group in lead climbing.[5]

In 2015, she achieved victory in the Japan Youth Championships lead event (under-Youth B age group),[6] and the All Japan Climbing Youth Championships Bouldering Tournament (Youth C).[7] In the same year, she also won both the lead and bouldering events (Youth C) while representing Japan in the IFSC Climbing Asian Youth Championships in Putrajaya, Malaysia.[8]

In 2016, she entered the All Japan Climbing Championships Lead Tournament, where she came 3rd in the girls' senior category, and won the Youth B category.[9] In November of the same year she represented Japan in the IFSC World Youth Championships in Guangzhou, China, where she came 2nd in bouldering in the girls' Youth B category.[10]

In January 2017, Ito won the 12th Sport Climbing Bouldering Japan Cup, where she faced the more experienced Japanese climbers Akiyo Noguchi and Miho Nonaka.[11][12][4] At 14 years and 9 months, Ito was youngest person ever to win the Japan Cup, beating Noguchi's 16 years and 3 months at the first Japan Cup in 2005.[12][4] She was also the youngest athlete to represent Japan in the 2018 Bouldering World Cup, where she placed 8th.[13][14]

In August 2018 she participated in combined and speed events at the Asian Games, held in Palembang, Indonesia.

In 2019 she won the Adidas Rockstars bouldering competition. In this event she defeated Janja Garnbret in the superfinal.[15][16]

Rankings

[17][18]

IFSC Climbing World Cup
2018
[19][14][20][21]		 2019
[22]
Lead 24
Bouldering 8 4
Speed 51
Combined 7

IFSC World Youth Championships
2016
Youth B
[23][24]		 2017
Youth B
[25][26][27][28]		 2018
Youth A
[29][30][31]
Lead 9 3 2
Bouldering 2 1 3
Speed 34 21
Combined 3

References
  1. "Itō Futaba - Kōeki Shadan Hōjin Nippon Sangaku Supōtsu Kuraimingu Kyōkai" [Futaba Ito - Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association] (in Japanese). Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association. Retrieved 3 June 2019.
  2. "Futaba Ito personal website". Archived from the original on Jul 5, 2019.
  3. "Teenage girl becomes youngest winner of Bouldering Japan Cup". Mainichi. 30 January 2017. Retrieved 3 June 2019.
  4. "Itō Futaba Sainenshō V 14-sai 'Supaidāman' Yume wa Gorin, W-Hai, Sekai Senshuken Seiha" [Futaba Ito, Youngest Champion: 14-year-old 'Spiderman' Whose Dreams are Winning the Olympics, the World Cup and the World Championships] (in Japanese). Daily Sports. January 30, 2017.
  5. "Dai 17-kai JOC Junia Orinpikku Kappu" [17th JOC Junior Olympic Cup] (PDF) (in Japanese). Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association.
  6. "Kuraimingu Nippon Yūsu Senshuken 2015 Mirē Kappu" [Climbing Japan Youth Championships 2015 Millet Cup] (PDF) (in Japanese). Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association.
  7. "Zennippon Kuraimingu Yūsu Senshuken Borudaringu Kyōgi Taikai 2015 Saishū Seiseki" [All Japan Climbing Youth Championships Bouldering Tournament 2015, Final Results] (PDF) (in Japanese). Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association.
  8. "FSC Kuraimingu Andā Yūsu Senshuken Putorajaya 2015". Sport Climbing Council of Japan.
  9. "Mamūto Kappu 2016 Supōtsu Kuraimingu Nippon Senshuken Ken Nihon Yūsu Senshuken Rīdo Kyōgi Taikai" [Mammut Cup 2016 Sport Climbing Japan Championships and Japan Youth Championships Lead Tournament] (PDF) (in Japanese). Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association.
  10. "IFSC World Youth Championships - Guangzhou (CHN) - 2016: General Result Female Youth B Boulder". November 13, 2016.
  11. "Supōtsu Kuraimingu Dai 12-kai Borudaringu Japan Kappu Joshi Sōgō Jun'i" [Sport Climbing 12th Bouldering Japan Cup General Women's Ranking] (PDF) (in Japanese). Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association.
  12. "Borudaringu, Morioka no Chū-2 ga Sainenshō de Hatsuyūshō" [Morioka 2nd Year Junior High School Student Wins Bouldering for First Time, the Youngest Ever]. Nippon TV News 24 Japan (in Japanese). 2017-01-30. Retrieved 2018-09-03.
  13. "Joshi Kōsei Kuraimā, Seichō Apīru Borudaringu W-Hai" [High School Girl Climber Coming of Age]. Asahi Shinbun Digital (in Japanese). June 5, 2018. Retrieved 2018-06-05.
  14. "IFSC Climbing World Cup 2019: W O M E N bouldering". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Archived from the original on July 5, 2019. Retrieved 5 July 2019.
  15. "adidas ROCKSTARS 2019 - Report". UK Climbing. Archived from the original on Sep 16, 2019.
  16. "Futaba Ito and Yoshiyuki Ogata are the winners of the Adidas Rockstars 2019 competition". Lacrux. Archived from the original on Sep 16, 2019.
  17. "Futaba Ito profile". IFSC. Archived from the original on Jul 5, 2019.
  18. "Futaba Ito profile". digitalrock.com. Archived from the original on July 5, 2019. Retrieved July 5, 2019.
  19. "IFSC Climbing Worldcup 2018: W O M E N lead". IFSC. Archived from the original on July 5, 2019. Retrieved July 5, 2019.
  20. "IFSC Climbing Worldcup 2018: W O M E N speed". IFSC. Archived from the original on July 5, 2019. Retrieved July 5, 2019.
  21. "Overall World Cup Ranking 2018". IFSC. Archived from the original on Jul 5, 2019.
  22. "IFSC Climbing World Cup 2019: W O M E N bouldering". IFSC. Archived from the original on July 5, 2019. Retrieved July 5, 2019.
  23. "IFSC World Youth Championships - Guangzhou (CHN) - 2016". IFSC. Archived from the original on July 5, 2019. Retrieved July 5, 2019.
  24. "IFSC World Youth Championships - Guangzhou (CHN) - 2016". IFSC. Archived from the original on July 5, 2019. Retrieved July 5, 2019.
  25. "IFSC Youth World Championships - Innsbruck (AUT) - 2017 LEAD". IFSC. Archived from the original on July 5, 2019. Retrieved July 5, 2019.
  26. "IFSC Youth World Championships - Innsbruck (AUT) - 2017 BOULDERING". IFSC. Archived from the original on July 5, 2019. Retrieved July 5, 2019.
  27. "IFSC Youth World Championships - Innsbruck (AUT) - 2017 SPEED". IFSC. Archived from the original on July 5, 2019. Retrieved July 5, 2019.
  28. "IFSC Youth World Championships Combined - Innsbruck (AUT) - 2017". IFSC. Archived from the original on July 5, 2019. Retrieved July 5, 2019.
  29. "IFSC Youth World Championships - Moscow (RUS) 2018 LEAD". IFSC. Archived from the original on July 5, 2019. Retrieved July 5, 2019.
  30. "IFSC Youth World Championships - Moscow (RUS) 2018 BOULDERING". IFSC. Archived from the original on July 5, 2019. Retrieved July 5, 2019.
  31. "IFSC Youth World Championships - Moscow (RUS) 2018 SPEED". IFSC. Archived from the original on July 5, 2019. Retrieved July 5, 2019.
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