IFSC Climbing World Cup

The IFSC Climbing World Cup is a series of climbing competitions held annually and organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). The athletes compete in three disciplines: lead, bouldering and speed. The number of competitions and venues vary from year to year. The first World Cup was held in 1989, and included only lead climbing events. Speed climbing was introduced in 1998 and bouldering in 1999. For 18 seasons, from 1989 to 2006, World Cups were held under the auspices of UIAA and called UIAA Climbing World Cups. Since 2007, they are held under the auspices of IFSC.[1]

Anna Stöhr at the Boulder Worldcup 2012

Scoring system

Individual disciplines

At the end of each World Cup competition, a trophy is awarded to the winner, the top three athletes are awarded gold, bronze, and silver medals, and the top six athletes are awarded prize money. The top 30 competitors of individual World Cup competitions are eligible to accrue points.

Ranking 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15
Points 1008065555147434037343128262422
Ranking 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30
Points 201816141210987654321

For each discipline (lead, bouldering and speed), the points awarded to each athlete are added together throughout the World Cup series in order to determine an overall World Cup ranking. If an athlete participates in all competitions in a discipline, its worst result is discarded (provided that IFSC organizes at least 6 competitions for that season). At the end of the season, the athlete with highest ranking in each discipline will be considered to be the overall winner of the World Cup series, and will be awarded a trophy. The athletes ranking second and third will be awarded a plate.[2]

National team ranking

At the end of each competition, a national team ranking is determined, for each discipline, by adding the ranking points of the three highest ranked individual team members. For each discipline (lead, bouldering and speed), the points awarded to each team are added together throughout the World Cup series in order to determine the overall team ranking. If a team participates in all competitions in a discipline, its worst result is discarded (provided that IFSC organizes at least 6 competitions for that season). At the end of the season, the team with highest overall ranking is awarded a trophy.

Combined ranking

Janja Garnbret's results in 2017
DisciplineOverall
score
Overall
ranking
Lead6651
Bouldering4702
Speed0-
Combined11351

For each season, results obtained by each athlete across events and across disciplines (Lead, Bouldering and Speed) are considered to determine a combined ranking. At the end of the season, prizes are awarded to the top three athletes. The combined title was first introduced in 1998, together with the first speed event.[3] Bouldering was introduced in the following year.

From 1998 to 2017, the combined score for each athlete was obtained by adding together the overall World Cup scores obtained by that athlete in at least two different disciplines. For instance, in 2017 Janja Garnbret won the combined title with a combined score of 1135 points, which was the sum of the overall scores she obtained in Lead and Bouldering. Since she competed in no Speed event, her score in that discipline was zero.

Jakob Schubert's results in 2018
DisciplineSelected
event
Rankings
GeneralRelative
LeadVillars11
Arco11
BoulderingMeringen43
Munich32
SpeedWujiang272
Xiamen264
Product of relative rankings 48

Since 2018, more complex rules were applied to determine the combined score.[4] Only athletes participating in at least two competitions in each discipline (i.e. 2 in Bouldering, 2 in Lead, and 2 in Speed) were eligible for the combined title. For each World Cup event, rankings were adjusted by discarding non-eligible athletes. Since they were relative to a selected subset of athletes (the eligible ones), these adjusted rankings were called relative rankings, as opposed to the general rankings applied to the whole set of participants. If an eligible athlete participated in more than two competitions in a discipline, only the best two results in that discipline were considered. For each eligible athlete, the relative rankings obtained in the selected six events were multiplied together to determine a combined score. Athletes were ranked according to their combined score in ascending order. Namely, the athlete with the lowest score was awarded the combined title. For instance, in 2018 Jakob Schubert won the Combined World Cup with a score of 48 points, determined as shown in the table.

In 2019, individual combined events were introduced in the World Cup series, where participants are required to compete in all disciplines (Bouldering, Lead and Speed) and medals are awarded based on their combined results.[5] Nevertheless, at the end of the season, combined World Cup rankings will be determined as well, with the same method applied in 2018, based on results across disciplines obtained by each athlete in six selected events.

Men's results

Complete rankings starting from the 1991 season are available on the IFSC web site.[6]

Lead

Year Winner Second Third
1989 Simon Nadin Didier Raboutou Jerry Moffatt
1990 François Legrand Jacky Godoffe Jim Karn
1991 François Legrand François Lombard Yuji Hirayama
1992 François Legrand Luca Zardini Jean-Baptiste Tribout
1993 François Legrand François Petit Yuji Hirayama
1994 François Lombard François Legrand Jean-Baptiste Tribout
1995 François Petit François Legrand Arnaud Petit
1996 Arnaud Petit François Petit Cristian Brenna
1997 François Legrand Arnaud Petit François Petit
1998 Yuji Hirayama Cristian Brenna Yevgen Kryvosheytsev
1999 François Petit François Legrand Andreas Bindhammer
2000 Yuji Hirayama Alexandre Chabot Cristian Brenna
2001 Alexandre Chabot Gérome Pouvreau Tomáš Mrázek
2002 Alexandre Chabot Tomáš Mrázek Gérome Pouvreau
2003 Alexandre Chabot Ramón Julián Puigblanque François Auclair
2004 Tomáš Mrázek Alexandre Chabot Flavio Crespi
2005 Flavio Crespi Jorg Verhoeven Cédric Lachat
2006 Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza David Lama Flavio Crespi
Tomáš Mrázek
2007 Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza Ramón Julián Puigblanque Tomáš Mrázek
2008 Jorg Verhoeven Tomáš Mrázek Ramón Julián Puigblanque
2009 Adam Ondra Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza Sachi Amma
2010 Ramón Julián Puigblanque Jakob Schubert Adam Ondra
2011 Jakob Schubert Ramón Julián Puigblanque Sachi Amma
2012 Sachi Amma Ramón Julián Puigblanque Jakob Schubert
2013 Sachi Amma Jakob Schubert Ramón Julián Puigblanque
2014 Jakob Schubert Sean McColl Adam Ondra
2015 Adam Ondra Gautier Supper Jakob Schubert
2016 Domen Škofic Jakob Schubert Romain Desgranges
2017 Romain Desgranges Stefano Ghisolfi Keiichiro Korenaga
2018 Jakob Schubert Stefano Ghisolfi Romain Desgranges
Domen Škofic
2019 Adam Ondra Alberto Gines Lopez Sean McColl

Bouldering

Year Winner Second Third
1999 Christian Core Serik Kazbekov Jérôme Meyer
2000 Pedro Pons Salavat Rakhmetov Daniel Dulac
2001 Jérôme Meyer Mauro Calibani Daniel Andrada Jimenez
2002 Christian Core
Jérôme Meyer
Malcolm Smith
- -
2003 Jérôme Meyer Salavat Rakhmetov Daniel Dulac
2004 Daniel Dulac Kilian Fischhuber Jérôme Meyer
2005 Kilian Fischhuber Jérôme Meyer Daniel Dulac
2006 Jérôme Meyer Kilian Fischhuber Gérome Pouvreau
2007 Kilian Fischhuber Dmitri Sarafutdinov Stephane Julien
2008 Kilian Fischhuber David Lama Dmitri Sarafutdinov
2009 Kilian Fischhuber Rustam Gelmanov Gabriele Moroni
2010 Adam Ondra Kilian Fischhuber Tsukuru Hori
2011 Kilian Fischhuber Dmitri Sarafutdinov Guillaume Glairon Mondet
2012 Rustam Gelmanov Kilian Fischhuber Jakob Schubert
2013 Dmitri Sarafutdinov Jakob Schubert Sean McColl
2014 Jan Hojer Dmitri Sarafutdinov Guillaume Glairon Mondet
2015 Jongwon Chon Jan Hojer Adam Ondra
2016 Tomoa Narasaki Kokoro Fujii Alexey Rubtsov
2017 Jongwon Chon Tomoa Narasaki Alexey Rubtsov
2018 Jernej Kruder Tomoa Narasaki Rei Sugimoto
2019 Tomoa Narasaki Adam Ondra Yoshiyuki Ogata

Speed

Year Winner Second Third
1998[3] Andrey Vedenmeer Vladimir Netsvetaev Alexey Kozlov
1999 Tomasz Oleksy Vladislav Baranov Vladimir Zakharov
2000 Andrey Vedenmeer Iakov Soubbotine Vladimir Zakharov
2001 Maksym Styenkovyy Alexander Chaoulsky Alexander Peshekhonov
2002 Alexander Peshekhonov Maksym Styenkovyy Sergey Sinitsyn
2003 Tomasz Oleksy Alexander Peshekhonov Iakov Soubbotine
2004 Sergey Sinitsyn Evgeny Vaitcekhovsky Alexander Peshekhonov
2005 Evgeny Vaitcekhovsky Sergey Sinitsyn Tomasz Oleksy
2006 Evgeny Vaitcekhovsky Sergey Sinitsyn Alexander Peshekhonov
2007 Sergey Sinitsyn Evgeny Vaitcekhovsky Alexander Kosterin
2008 Evgeny Vaitcekhovsky Sergey Sinitsyn Qixin Zhong
2009 Sergey Sinitsyn Sergey Abdrakhmanov Evgeny Vaitcekhovsky
2010 Stanislav Kokorin Evgeny Vaitcekhovsky Libor Hroza
2011 Łukasz Świrk Sergey Sinitsyn Sergey Abdrakhmanov
2012 Stanislav Kokorin Danyil Boldyrev Yaroslav Gontaryk
2013 Stanislav Kokorin Libor Hroza Qixin Zhong
2014 Danyil Boldyrev Libor Hroza Marcin Dzieński
2015 Qixin Zhong Libor Hroza Danyil Boldyrev
2016 Marcin Dzieński Reza Alipour Aleksander Shikov
2017 Vladislav Deulin Reza Alipour Ludovico Fossali
2018 Bassa Mawem Danyil Boldyrev Dmitry Timofeev
2019 Bassa Mawem Vladislav Deulin Alfian Muhammad

Combined

Year Winner Second Third
1998[3][7] Yevgen Kryvosheytsev Tomasz Oleksy -
1999 François Petit Daniel Andrada Jimenez Tomasz Oleksy
2000 Alexandre Chabot Salavat Rakhmetov Serik Kazbekov
2001 Alexandre Chabot Serik Kazbekov Kilian Fischhuber
2002 Maksym Styenkovyy Serik Kazbekov Kilian Fischhuber
2003 Tomasz Oleksy Evgeny Ovchinnikov Serik Kazbekov
Cédric Lachat
2004 Kilian Fischhuber Flavio Crespi Gérome Pouvreau
2005 Tomasz Oleksy Kilian Fischhuber Dmitri Sarafutdinov
2006 Tomáš Mrázek David Lama Kilian Fischhuber
2007 Jorg Verhoeven Tomáš Mrázek Kilian Fischhuber
2008 David Lama Jorg Verhoeven Tomáš Mrázek
2009 Adam Ondra Sachi Amma Klemen Becan
2010 Adam Ondra Jakob Schubert Sachi Amma
2011 Jakob Schubert Sean McColl Klemen Becan
2012 Jakob Schubert Sean McColl Sachi Amma
2013 Jakob Schubert Sean McColl Sachi Amma
2014 Sean McColl Adam Ondra Domen Škofic
2015 Adam Ondra Sean McColl Domen Škofic
2016 Sean McColl Jakob Schubert Kokoro Fujii
2017 Tomoa Narasaki Jongwon Chon Kokoro Fujii
2018 Jakob Schubert Tomoa Narasaki Kokoro Fujii
2019 Tomoa Narasaki Adam Ondra Jakob Schubert

Women's results

Complete rankings starting from the 1991 season are available on the IFSC web site.[6]

Lead

Year Winner Second Third
1989 Nanette Raybaud Luisa Iovane Robyn Erbesfield
1990 Isabelle Patissier
Lynn Hill
- Nanette Raybaud
1991 Isabelle Patissier Susi Good Robyn Erbesfield
1992 Robyn Erbesfield Isabelle Patissier Lynn Hill
1993 Robyn Erbesfield Susi Good Elena Ovtchinnikova
1994 Robyn Erbesfield Isabelle Patissier Natalie Richer
1995 Robyn Erbesfield Laurence Guyon Liv Sansoz
1996 Liv Sansoz Laurence Guyon Stéphanie Bodet
1997 Muriel Sarkany Liv Sansoz Stéphanie Bodet
1998 Liv Sansoz Muriel Sarkany Stéphanie Bodet
1999 Muriel Sarkany Liv Sansoz Martina Čufar
2000 Liv Sansoz Muriel Sarkany Stéphanie Bodet
2001 Muriel Sarkany Martina Čufar Sandrine Levet
2002 Muriel Sarkany Sandrine Levet Martina Čufar
2003 Muriel Sarkany Sandrine Levet Angela Eiter
2004 Angela Eiter Muriel Sarkany Alexandra Eyer
Natalija Gros
2005 Angela Eiter Maja Vidmar Caroline Ciavaldini
2006 Angela Eiter Sandrine Levet Caroline Ciavaldini
2007 Maja Vidmar Angela Eiter Muriel Sarkany
2008 Johanna Ernst Maja Vidmar Mina Markovič
2009 Johanna Ernst Jain Kim Maja Vidmar
2010 Jain Kim Mina Markovič Angela Eiter
2011 Mina Markovič Jain Kim Maja Vidmar
2012 Mina Markovic Jain Kim Johanna Ernst
2013 Jain Kim Mina Markovič Momoka Oda
2014 Jain Kim Mina Markovič Magdalena Röck
2015 Mina Markovič Jain Kim Jessica Pilz
2016 Janja Garnbret Anak Verhoeven Jain Kim
2017 Janja Garnbret Jain Kim Anak Verhoeven
2018 Janja Garnbret Jessica Pilz Jain Kim
2019 Chaehyun Seo Janja Garnbret Natsuki Tanii

Bouldering

Year Winner Second Third
1999 Stéphanie Bodet Elena Choumilova Sandrine Levet
2000 Sandrine Levet Elena Choumilova Delphine Martin
2001 Sandrine Levet Myriam Motteau Corinne Theroux
2002 Myriam Motteau
Nataliya Perlova
Lisa Rands
- -
2003 Sandrine Levet Olga Bibik Nataliya Perlova
2004 Sandrine Levet Olga Bibik Yulia Abramchuk
2005 Sandrine Levet Olga Bibik Yulia Abramchuk
2006 Olga Bibik Juliette Danion Anna Stöhr
2007 Juliette Danion Olga Shalagina Natalija Gros
2008 Anna Stöhr Akiyo Noguchi Yulia Abramchuk
2009 Akiyo Noguchi Anna Stöhr Natalija Gros
2010 Akiyo Noguchi Anna Stöhr Chloé Graftiaux
2011 Anna Stöhr Akiyo Noguchi Alex Puccio
2012 Anna Stöhr Akiyo Noguchi Shauna Coxsey
2013 Anna Stöhr Akiyo Noguchi Alex Puccio
2014 Akiyo Noguchi Shauna Coxsey Anna Stöhr
2015 Akiyo Noguchi Shauna Coxsey Miho Nonaka
2016 Shauna Coxsey Miho Nonaka Melissa Le Neve
2017 Shauna Coxsey Janja Garnbret Akiyo Noguchi
2018 Miho Nonaka Akiyo Noguchi Fanny Gibert
2019 Janja Garnbret Akiyo Noguchi Fanny Gibert

Speed

Year Winner Second Third
1998[3] Olga Zakharova Alena Ostapenko Nataliya Perlova
1999 Olga Zakharova Alena Ostapenko Zosia Podgorbounskikh
2000 Olena Ryepko Olga Zakharova Zosia Podgorbounskikh
2001 Olga Zakharova Agung Ethi Hendrawati Zosia Podgorbounskikh
2002 Olena Ryepko Maya Piratinskaya Valentina Yurina
2003 Valentina Yurina Anna Stenkovaya Olena Ryepko
2004 Tatiana Ruyga Anna Stenkovaya Agung Ethi Hendrawati
2005 Anna Stenkovaya Valentina Yurina Olga Evstigneeva
2006 Tatiana Ruyga Valentina Yurina Anna Stenkovaya
2007 Tatiana Ruyga Svitlana Tuzhylina Anna Stenkovaya
2008 Edyta Ropek Olena Ryepko Svitlana Tuzhylina
2009 Edyta Ropek Anna Stenkovaya Valentina Yurina
2010 Yulia Levochkina Ksenia Alekseeva Edyta Ropek
2011 Edyta Ropek Maria Krasavina Alina Gaydamakina
2012 Alina Gaydamakina Yulia Levochkina Maria Krasavina
2013 Alina Gaydamakina Yulia Kaplina Aleksandra Rudzinska
2014 Maria Krasavina Yulia Kaplina Anouck Jaubert
2015 Maria Krasavina Anouck Jaubert Yulia Kaplina
2016 Yulia Kaplina Anouck Jaubert Klaudia Buczek
2017 Anouck Jaubert Yulia Kaplina Maria Krasavina
2018 Anouck Jaubert Aries Susanti Rahayu Yulia Kaplina
2019 YiLing Song Anouck Jaubert Aries Susanti Rahayu

Combined

Year Winner Second Third
1998[3][8] Nataliya Perlova Renata Piszczek Olena Ostapenko
1999 Elena Choumilova Stéphanie Bodet Isabelle Bihr
2000 Liv Sansoz Sandrine Levet Elena Choumilova
2001 Sandrine Levet Martina Čufar Elena Choumilova
Annatina Schultz
2002 Sandrine Levet Olga Zakharova Jenny Lavarda
2003 Sandrine Levet Olga Bibik Barbara Bacher
2004 Sandrine Levet Jenny Lavarda Alexandra Eyer
2005 Sandrine Levet Anna Stenkovaya Jenny Lavarda
2006 Angela Eiter Natalija Gros Maja Vidmar
2007 Natalija Gros Angela Eiter Svitlana Tuzhylina
2008 Akiyo Noguchi Johanna Ernst Natalija Gros
2009 Akiyo Noguchi Jain Kim Johanna Ernst
2010 Jain Kim Akiyo Noguchi Natalija Gros
2011 Mina Markovič Jain Kim Akiyo Noguchi
2012 Mina Markovič Jain Kim Akiyo Noguchi
2013 Mina Markovič Akiyo Noguchi Momoka Oda
2014 Akiyo Noguchi Mina Markovič Momoka Oda
2015 Jain Kim Akiyo Noguchi Yuka Kobayashi
2016 Janja Garnbret Akiyo Noguchi Jessica Pilz
2017 Janja Garnbret Jain Kim Shauna Coxsey
2018 Janja Garnbret Akiyo Noguchi Miho Nonaka
2019 Janja Garnbret Akiyo Noguchi Jessica Pilz

See also

References

  1. "Climbing Competitions' History". ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 24 September 2015. Retrieved 19 May 2013.
  2. "Event Regulations".
  3. Before 1998, the World Cup consisted only of lead climbing competitions. In 1998, for the first time a speed event was introduced, which was held in Beauregard (Italy). A combined title was also awarded. However, only 3 women and 2 men competed in both disciplines and hence met the requirements to be ranked for the combined title.
  4. "IFSC Rules modifications 2018" (PDF). ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 19 May 2019.
  5. "IFSC Rules modifications 2019" (PDF). ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 19 May 2019.
  6. "World Cup rankings and World rankings". www.ifsc-climbing.org.
  7. "UIAA CLIMBING-WORLDCUP 1998: MEN COMBINED".
  8. "UIAA CLIMBING-WORLDCUP 1998: WOMEN COMBINED".
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