Great Island

The ancient name of the island was Oilean Ard na Neimheadh, the "High (or important) island of Neimheadh".[7] According to the 11th-century work Lebor Gabála Érenn, Neimheadh was the leader of a group who invaded the area in prehistoric times.[8] Archaeological evidence of prehistoric and early medieval settlement on Great Island is recorded on the Record of Monuments and Places of the National Monuments Service.[9] This includes records of ringfort, fulacht fiadh, holy well, and bee bole structures.[10][11]

Belvelly Castle overlooks the narrowest crossing, site of the only road bridge to the mainland

By the early 13th century, the island was under the control of the Anglo-Norman Hodnett family.[12][7] The Hodnetts built several structures, including Belvelly Castle, to defend the island and its approaches.[12] The island and its defenses were taken by the de Barra (Barry) family in the 14th century.[13] The Barry family (later Earls of Barrymore) retained power in the area for several centuries, and the island became known as "Barrymore Island" or Oileán Mór an Barraigh, meaning "Great island of the Barrys".[7]

In the 18th and 19th centuries, due to the strategic importance of the island within Cork Harbour (overlooking the naval berths and military bases at Haulbowline and Spike Island), several coastal defence fortifications were built on Great Island. These included construction by the British of Cove Fort (between Cobh and Cuskinny) in the 18th century and several Martello towers (at Belvelly, Monning and Rossleague) in the 19th century.[14]

The largest settlement on Great Island, Cobh, had significant development during the 19th and early 20th centuries, stimulated by additional expansion in shipping and naval activity in the area.[15]

Early 18th century map of Cork Harbour showing Great Island (centre)

Great Island is located in Cork Harbour on Ireland's south coast, and is made-up of the civil parishes of Clonmel and Templerobin.[16][17]

The island is connected by road bridge to Fota Island to the north – which, in turn, connects via a causeway to the mainland. This road bridge, Belvelly Bridge, was built in 1803 at one of the narrowest points in the channels around Great Island.[18] More than 200 years old, it is the only road bridge to the island.[19]

A railway bridge and rail line also runs out through Fota Island to Great Island. Railway stations on Great Island include Carrigaloe station and Rushbrooke station, and the terminus at Cobh. A ferry service also connects the island (from a point near Carrigaloe) to the mainland (at a point near Passage West).[20][21]

During regional windstorms in 2017 (including Storm Ophelia), downed trees and high winds resulted in the closure of the only road bridge to Great Island. Ferry and rail services were cancelled, leaving 12,000 residents stranded on the island.[1][22] This led to some calls for a review of emergency access provisions and plans for the island.[19]

In the 19th century Topographical Dictionary of Ireland (published by Samuel Lewis in 1837), Great Island is described as "very fertile" with its "light productive soil" supporting agricultural uses with "two-thirds [of the island] under tillage, and the remainder in pasture or included in demesnes".[7] Lewis describes the island's location, environment and climate as factors "induc[ing] many genteel families to settle here".[7]

As of the 21st century, land use on Great Island remains primarily agricultural and residential in nature. The island has a population of between 12,000 and 14,000.[1][2] While some of this population work on the island, as of the early 21st century, an increasing percentage of the island's residents commute to Cork city for work, traveling by car, Cork Commuter Rail, and bus services to the city.[6][23] Residential developments are concentrated mainly around Cobh, with other populated townlands and settlements on the island including Ballymore, Ballynoe, and Belvelly.[16][17]

Prior to the 21st century, land use included industrial zones, such as the former Irish Fertilizer Industries plant at Marino Point,[24] and the Verolme Cork Dockyard at Rushbrooke.[25] The latter was long the site of construction of vessels for the Irish Naval Service, such as the LÉ Eithne. Many of these heavy industries have since closed.[25][26] Some smaller boatbuilding companies are still based at Cobh.[27]

Tourism is now important to the island economy.[6] Great Island is the location of the only berth in the Republic of Ireland dedicated for visiting cruise ships. This industry has grown in the 21st century.[28]

The waterfront at Cuskinny, 4 km (2 mi) east of Cobh

Several proposed conservation sites and green areas are located on and around the island. These include Cuskinny Marsh Nature Reserve (which is managed by BirdWatch Ireland),[29] Marlogue Wood (operated by Coillte),[30] and the Great Island Channel Special Area of Conservation (overseen by the National Parks and Wildlife Service).[31] The latter, the Great Island Special Area of Conservation, proposes conservation controls (including aquaculture limits) to protect the animal and bird habitats of the area's salt marshes.[32]

While larger fish species are less common in the Great Island Special Area of Conservation, a large blue shark was recorded just off the island in mid-2018.[33]

• List of coastal fortifications of County Cork