Santa Cruz, Goa

Santa Cruz shares a border, in the northwest, with Taleigao village, and has an unusual story of how a boundary dispute was settled. The Taleigaokars (villagers of Taleigao accusing the Calaporkars, their counterparts in Santa Cruz, of encroaching into their territory where there valuable rice paddy fields. To this, the communities agreed to consult an oracle to settle the boundary dispute.

The night before the oracle was to be consulted, the Calaporkas dug a hole on the border and lowered a wooden coffin containing one of their men, "the patriotic Calaporkar", who could breathe through a tube, and then covered the hole.

So on the next day, when the time of decision arrived, both village leaders implored the oracle to answer their prayer. A long silence prevailed. The villagers comunidade leaders kept repeating in turns "To whom does this land belong?" And from the depths of the earth a faint voice replied: “Calapor! Calapor! Calapor!” to the smartly executed plan of pseudo joy and pseudo exultation of the Calaporkars who pretended to be very surprised. The deceived Taleigaokars accepted the oracle verdict and went home west—surprised, sad and frustrated.

The Calaporkars also had to go home and had to return to dig “the patriotic Calaporkar.” Everyone in Calapor made merry the whole night with caju feni—and the few who had secretly plotted this activity totally forgot the proud patriotic villager inside the coffin as they were drunk with caju feni. The Calapor villagers returned on the third day to the disputed territorial location to dig up the coffin, only to observe that the poor man had already died. In the coffin, they found mostly worms crawling. As a symbol of self punishment, to find a smart solution for a smart boundary disputed settlement they decided to remember the deceased human who was the patriotic Calaporkar. Hence, each villager took the worms and tied a worm on right side of his hip string which held his tambdi (red) kasti/cashti (loin cloth) in place (this coined the phrase "Bhenddak [3] Kiddo” or “waist worm”). Goa is a land of tambdi mathi (red mud/soil) and tambdi kasti (red loin cloth in the bygone days). On the very location, tradition says, stands the “Almacho Khuris” (Soul's Cross) which faces the Santa Cruz Church, Ilhas, Goa. The concrete Almacho Khuris monument about 10’ tall commemorates the boundary disputes triumph and tragedy after Christianity replaced traditional symbols. Hence, every Calaporkar villager is referred to as “Bhenddak Kiddo.”[4] The Almacho Khuris is a historic border dispute monument which lies on a bandh between villages of Santa Cruz and Taleigao.

The Four Pillars or the 'Char Khambe', as they are called in the Konkani language, are painted white,[5] and are located in the khazan lands on the old Santa Cruz–Panjim roads in the marshy area of the Rio de Ourem (Portuguese for 'River of Gold'). This road is now named as Vasantrao Dempo Marg. During Portuguese rule, freedom fighters gathered here and held meetings and discussions, making it a very important landmark in Goa. It was built in 1896.[5][6]

The khazans—which refer to low-lying land situated near creeks or river side which is normally below high tide level—is situated on the St Cruz stretch. The area is surrounded by rice paddy fields on both the sides (north and south). It is one of the busiest roads in Panjim. With the hustle bustle all day long, the four pillars about 15' tall each, two on each side of the road may appear to be just another structure. Physically, the site act as a buffer between the hectic urban environment of city of Panjim and the serene village environs of Santa Cruz. The place, is part of the unique Goan landscape, is very fragile and irreplaceable in nature and any thoughtless human intervention can cause drastic and irreparable consequential damage in the long run. The site is a low-lying tidal flood plain and is part of the natural drainage pattern during the rainy season on account of the surrounding topography.

The marshy wetland is a host to mangrove vegetation which plays a definite role in the maintenance of vital ecological balance. The place is also a popular habitat to a wide variety of local and migratory birds and is a bird-watcher's delight. It is quite common to find researchers and bird lovers from distant countries here, with their trained cameras. This place finds mention on the Internet along with the Karmali lake, Chorao, Mayem lake and others in Goa.[7] But for the locals here, they aren't just structures. There are sluice gates at this structure, which controlled the flow of marine water for the salt pans, which are on the south. The north area is an estuary with plenty of flora and fauna. This area is believed by some locals to be haunted, with the haunting at its peak on full moon nights. According to the commuters who have travelled via the stretch, there is an eerie feeling that prevails at the spot. They have also claimed to have sighted some apparitions in the nights. Locals say that the area is jinxed and cursed and this is one reason for the numerous accidents taking place here. Others sightings reportedly include those of a lady dressed in a white saree and supposedly asking for a lift. People also claim of hearing cries and have even had a sudden breaking down of bikes as soon as they reach the Char Khambe.[8]

The village market.

A unique organizational structure called comunidade, headed by a hereditary descendant, is involved in governing villages and regulating the agricultural activities in Goan villages. Each village constitutes a comunidade and has its own rules depending on the local customs. This is one of the oldest administrative setup, which is in existence for the past thousand years and has been recognised by the Constitution. In the past, the comunidade was responsible for reclaiming the waterlogged lands (khazans) along the coasts and making them suitable for agricultural activities, aquaculture, pisciculture and salt production.[9]

The village church, located at the heart of the village.

The Igreja de Santa Cruz (Igreja means church in Portuguese, and Santa Cruz is the Holy Cross) is one of the several churches in Ilhas de Goa which was built in 1547.[10] It is also the only church in the town, serving one of the largest parishes in Goa. The Santa Cruz parish celebrates the parish feast of the Holy Cross which falls on the Sunday between 2 and 8 May every year and the feast of Our Lady of Rosary which takes place on the fourth Sunday of every January. Both these feasts are preceded by a novena, special church services run for a period of nine days in the church. Other important festive occasion are the yearly paddy harvest festival which is held on 24 August every year, a popular festival full of pomp where a church priest blesses the new crop produced.

The Hindus have their spiritual festival such as, Ganesh Chaturthi, Hindu Diwalli (festival of lights) and Shigmo. Lord Ganesh is widely worshipped as the God of education, knowledge, wisdom, wealth and destroyer of evils and obstacles.