Galena, Illinois

A large galena crystal from the Galena mines

The city is named for galena,[10] the natural form of lead sulfide (PbS) and the most important lead ore.[11] Native Americans mined the ore for use in burial rituals.[12] The Havana Hopewell first traded galena in the area during the Middle Woodland period (c. 1–400 CE). However, the use of galena in the Havana territory is uncertain; very little has been identified in burial mounds.[13] During the Mississippian period (900–1500 CE), galena saw use as body paint.[14]

In 1658 French explorers, probably via contact with the Sioux, first noted lead deposits in the Upper Mississippi Valley. A 1703 French map identified the northwestern Illinois area as mines de plumb.[15] Northwestern Illinois was inhabited by the Sac and Fox when the French arrived.[2] In the 1690s, French trappers discovered the area and began mining the lead.[1][16] However, conflicts with the Sioux prevented large-scale mining until Julien Dubuque's Mines opened across the river in 1788.[15]

The French named the settlement as La Pointe, and early American settlers adopted this name as "The Point" after the United States acquired the territory in the Louisiana Purchase of 1803. Early documentation officially records the name as "Fever River", an early name for the Galena River.

This name did not appear to be widely used.[17] George Davenport, a retired colonel in the United States Army, successfully shipped Galena's first boatload of lead ore in 1816 down the Mississippi River. Three years later, Jesse W. Shull built a trading post.[18] The Thomas H. January family, who arrived in 1821 from Maysville, Kentucky, are considered the first permanent American settlers. The next year, the US Department of War assumed control of the mines and leased the lands out to operators.[19] A large group of colonists led by Dr. Moses Meeker and James Harris arrived in 1823.[20] Steamboat trade began in 1824.[18]

The Dowling House (1826–27) is the oldest building in Galena

The first official lease of the mines on behalf of the US government was dated September 30, 1822 and made to James Johnson, brother of US Senator Richard Mentor Johnson. Martin Thomas, appointed by the government in 1824 to oversee mine leases, was commissioned to survey the mines in 1826.[21]

The name "Galena" was purportedly proposed during a town meeting that year; rejected names included Jackson, Harrison, and Jo Daviess. After Thomas platted the town, starting in June 1827, settlers could lease plots from the government. The land remained in government possession until the leasing system was eased out in 1836–37.[20] When Jo Daviess County was founded in 1827, Galena was named its county seat. This established the first courts in Galena; previous legal proceedings were heard in front of the Superintendent of Lead Mines.[22] 21 million pounds of lead were mined in Galena from 1825 to 1828, and the population skyrocketed in that time from 200 to 10,000.[23]

Local native tribes, then mostly Mesquakie and Ho-Chunk, permitted settlers to mine in established areas in Galena. However, the growth of the city led settlers to encroach on native land claims, as they sought new veins of lead.[24] Following a murder of a pioneer family near Prairie du Chien, Wisconsin, by the Winnebago, Galena closed its mines for safety and European-American residents prepared for war. They constructed forts at nearby Elizabeth and Apple River; although these were not used during the conflict, the forts provided residents with security and protection.[25] The ensuing Winnebago War was little more than a skirmish, but as a result, the US annexed more lands near the city in the resulting 1829 Treaty of Prairie du Chien which they forced on the Winnebago.

A meeting of townspeople on February 1, 1830, established the first fire department.[26] At a town meeting at the county courthouse on September 7, 1835, sixty-five residents approved a motion for incorporation as a town. Eight days later, five individuals were elected as the first trustees. Incorporation was approved by the county board of trustees on October 2, and the first meeting of trustees occurred the next day.[3] The 15th Illinois General Assembly (1836–37) codified the trustee election process.[27] A steamboat was selected as the town seal on May 22, 1837.[28]

A state law governing local jurisdictions resulted in the town holding its first elections for mayor and aldermen on May 24, 1841, to replace the board of trustees. Charles S. Hempstead was elected the first mayor, with 185 of the 356 votes cast. The first US census of the town was also held that year, recording 1,900 inhabitants.[29]

By 1845 Galena was producing nearly 27,000 tons of lead ore annually, and Jo Daviess County was producing 80 percent of the lead in the United States.[18] Once one of the most important cities in the state, Galena was a hub on the Mississippi River between St. Louis and St. Paul. Due to erosion, the Galena River is now inaccessible to steamboats. Galena received national attention in the 1860s as the home of Union General Ulysses S. Grant.

Following a sharp decline in the demand for lead (which had been the city's chief income source during the early 19th century), Galena's population has dropped from 14,000 in the mid-19th century, to 3,396 in the early 21st century.[2][30]

Main Street's westview of Galena Illinois

Galena's official flag was adopted in 1976 to symbolize mining, agriculture, steamboats, and the nine American Civil War generals who lived in the city. Until the late 1980s, Galena was a small rural farming community.

In 1990, local industries included a Kraft Foods cheese plant, Lemfco Foundry, John Westwick's foundry, and Microswitch, Inc. In the 1980s, Galena Mayor Frank Einsweiler initiated a tourist campaign. Since that time Galena's business district has emphasized its historic assets in the face of suburban development. Such long-standing businesses in the downtown area, including Stair's Grocery, Sullivan's Grocery, Clingman's Pharmacy, the oldest continuously operating pharmacy in Illinois, and Hartig Drug, closed their downtown locations. Clingman's and Hartig's relocated to the outskirts of Galena, while Stair's and Sullivan's closed their doors permanently because of competition. In late 2010, Clingman's joined the Hartig's family and moved their pharmacy to Hartig's Drugs location along Highway 20.

The Country Fair in Grant Park has been an attraction that has helped increase tourist traffic to Galena as a destination. It is a craft show that attracts thousands of visitors to the area. The once boarded-up Main Street buildings have been renovated since the late 20th century. In 2010 Galena started a campaign called Vision2020, modeled after neighbor Dubuque, Iowa's Vision 2010. A committee worked on outreach efforts with the community to form a vision of what residents wanted Galena to focus on for the next decade: five major concepts have been supported. In 2010, the 32nd annual Halloween Parade attendance was estimated at 15,000. In 2011, TripAdvisor listed Galena among its top-ten "Charming Small Towns".

Galena has a humid continental climate (Köppen climate classification: Dfa), with cold winters, hot summers, and four seasons.[34] Annual precipitation is about 36 inches.

Floodgates in downtown Galena

Photo of former Galena High School now a multi-family residential condominium building

Because of the city's proximity to the Galena River, buildings have been threatened on numerous occasions by flooding. Eventually the Army Corps of Engineers built a dike to prevent city flooding.[36] Galena's Congressman, Leo E. Allen, helped acquire funding for city floodgates which were added in 1951 to connect to the river levee system.[36] Significant recorded floods include:

• 1828 – In Galena's first recorded flood, water was high enough to allow steamboats to travel on city streets.[36]
• 1937 – A flood inundated Main Street with up to five feet of water, causing serious damage to downtown buildings.[36]
• 1972 – A storm upstream caused the flood gates to be closed but the river flooded the sewage treatment plan and backed up sanitary and storm sewers. Sand bags were placed around storm manholes to keep water from flooding the downtown with 3 feet of water.
• 1993 – Almost eight feet of water threatened downtown Galena, but was stopped by the city's floodgates. Late spring season rainfall led the Mississippi and Galena Rivers to their highest recorded levels.[36][37]
• 2010 – On July 22, eight inches of rainfall in one night caused the river to swell to twice its usual level. The flood gates were closed, protecting downtown, but many businesses and homes reported damages to basements and lower levels. Had the flood gates not been in place, it was estimated that six feet of water would have covered Main Street. Damages were estimated between $7–8 million. President Obama declared the county a federal disaster area on Aug. 19.[38]
• 2011 – In a 12-hour period between July 27 and 28, Galena received between 10 and 15 inches of rain. The Galena River rose to more than twice its normal height and possibly its highest recorded level since the floodgates were erected. The Grant Park sign, built in the 19th century, was washed away and there were major damages to downtown businesses, the city's trail system and roads. Initial damage estimates were around $16 million.[39]

Galena is a popular tourist destination hosting well over one million visitors each year.[42] Galena is also popular with Chicagoans, many of whom keep second homes in the area.[43][44]

85 percent of the structures in Galena are within the Galena Historic District, which is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and greatly contributes to the city's popularity.[1] The Old Market House State Historic Site, built in 1845, is a museum of local social history. Main Street was one of the first in the state to require architectural review of exterior building modifications. Zoning restrictions against wood-structure buildings contributed to the prevalence of brick buildings. All along Main Street the architectural style and historic feel create a unique atmosphere. Efforts to improve the existing infrastructure while preserving the character of this neighborhood continued in 2003 with the adoption of a comprehensive plan. The plan outlines details on burying utilities, replacing parking with bike lanes and several beautification initiatives. This historic district has garnered the attention of dozens of volunteer groups who work to beautify and increase the utility of the area. As the premier street in the second most popular tourist destination in Illinois those planning Main Street must be focused on balancing new developments along the waterway, and the transition to commercial stores with the charm provided by natural areas and long standing businesses. Trolley Cars follow parade routes north and south on Main Street and connect shopping to parks and wineries.[45] The town is home to several wineries in the Upper Mississippi River Valley AVA.[46] In the area, there are 450 vineyards and 100 wineries available to visit.[47] Main Street in downtown Galena has a large number of specialty shops, restaurants, and a winery.

Galena's Saint Michael's Church was founded by the pioneer priest Father Samuel Mazzuchelli. The church is named after one of the three Archangels. Opened in 1855, the downtown DeSoto House Hotel is the oldest operating hotel in Illinois.[48] Rooms 209 and 211 of the hotel were used as Ulysses S Grant's campaign headquarters during his presidential campaign.[49] Future president Abraham Lincoln gave a speech from the hotel's Main Street balcony on July 23, 1856, supporting John Fremont's bid for presidency. Two years later, on July 25, 1858 Senator Stephen Douglas spoke from the same balcony.[49] Other famous guests include Theodore Roosevelt, Mark Twain, Susan B. Anthony, Ralph Waldo Emerson, Horace Greeley, Frances Willard, Elizabeth Cady Stanton, Robert E. Lee, Chief Black Hawk, Millard Fillmore, and Zachary Taylor.[50] General Winfield Scott Hancock stayed in Room 223 for an extended period of time. There are also several resorts and golf courses in the Galena area.[51][52] In celebration of the 2018 Illinois Bicentennial, Galena Main Street was selected as one of the Illinois 200 Great Places [53] by the American Institute of Architects Illinois component (AIA Illinois) and was recognized by USA Today Travel magazine, as one of AIA Illinois' selections for Illinois 25 Must See Places.[54]

Dr. John O. Hancock opened the first school in September 1826.[55] The Galena Academy followed in 1832.[56] Galena is home to Galena High School and since 1992, Tri-State Christian School.[57]

Galena was the home to nine Civil War generals.[58][59] Foremost among these is Grant, who first came to Galena with his wife Julia in 1860 to work in the family tannery and leather-good shop. A veteran of the Mexican–American War, Grant was called upon to train a regiment of volunteers raised in Galena when the Civil War broke out in 1861. Through the support of local congressman Elihu B. Washburne, Grant became Galena's first general when promoted by Abraham Lincoln on May 17, 1861. Washburne later served a brief stint as Grant's Secretary of State and then as Minister to France. Victories at Missionary Ridge and Lookout Mountain prompted Lincoln to promote Grant to lieutenant general on March 3, 1864, giving him command of all Union Armies.

Grant returned victorious to Galena in 1865 and the citizens gave him an Italianate two-story brick house, today recognized as the Ulysses S. Grant Home State Historic Site.[60] He was selected as the candidate of the Republican Party for the 1868 presidential election. Grant was elected and served two four-year terms. He did not return to Galena. The Grants had four children: Frederick, Ulysses, Ellen, and Jesse. Frederick became a major general and served as Minister to Austria-Hungary. Ulysses, Jr., built the U.S. Grant Hotel in San Diego, California.

Augustus Louis Chetlain, who captained the regiment that Grant trained, was later brevetted to major general.[61] Jeweler John E. Smith, who raised the 45th Illinois Volunteer Infantry Regiment, was also brevetted a major general. Ely S. Parker drafted the Appomattox surrender terms of the Confederacy and was the only Native American general of the Union. President Grant appointed him Commissioner of Indian Affairs in 1869. John Aaron Rawlins, who served a term as city attorney in 1857, was brevetted in 1865 and briefly served as Grant's Secretary of War. Brevetted brigadier general John C. Smith later served as Illinois Treasurer, Lieutenant Governor, and Grand Master of the state Masonic order. Gunsmith Jasper A. Maltby was promoted to brigadier general in 1863 and John Duerr was brevetted in 1865. Duerr later served as mayor of Monticello, Iowa.