Le Male

Le Male is a men's fragrance created by Francis Kurkdjian for Jean Paul Gaultier in 1995. It has been manufactured by Puig since 2016, and was previously manufactured by Shiseido subsidiary Beauté Prestige International from 1995 until 2015. The fragrance was developed as a counterpart to the women's fragrance Classique, which was introduced in 1993.

Le Male
Fragrance by Jean Paul Gaultier
TypeMen's fragrance
Top notes
Heart notes
Base notes
Released1995 (1995)
Label
Flanker(s)List of flanker fragrances
WebsiteLe Male

A number of flanker fragrances have since been released on the strength of the Le Male name. The most recent fragrance, Le Male Le Parfum, was launched in 2020.

Conception and scent

"The idea for Le Male was based on a men's hairdresser in the '50s these were full of the smell of lavender, which is where the perfume's main lavender accord comes from. It's reminiscent of a very good-looking man taking care of himself; kind of preppy, but in a Fifties and Sixties kind of way."

— Kurkdjian discussing the inspiration behind the fragrance, 2004[1]

Le Male is described as an oriental fougere men's fragrance, a classification which is identified by the combination of "warm, woody, and spicy notes" and aromatic notes.[2] The fragrance contains top notes of artemisia, mint, cardamom, and bergamot; middle notes of lavender, orange blossom, cinnamon, and cumin; and base notes of sandalwood, vanilla, cedar, tonka bean, and amber.[3] Kurkdjian stated that the fragrance was simple to develop because "with vanilla, you don't have to be as technical, whereas floral fragrances are very complex and very difficult to pull off."[1]

Kurkdjian described the Le Male bottle, a male torso wearing a marinière, as "a motif to put it in the 'Gaultier universe'" that represents "[Gaultier's] idea of what men are about being seductive, being sexual, [and] being adventurous."[1] The fragrance is packaged in an aluminum can, a motif Gaultier has used in his collections since 1980.[4] Kurkdjian recalled believing that the fragrance "[was] not going to work at all" upon seeing the overall packaging because "the bottle not looking like a bottle" was "very unconventional" in the 1990s.[1]

Release and impact

Shiseido subsidiary Beauté Prestige International distributed Jean Paul Gaultier fragrances, including Le Male from launch in 1995, through a license agreement that was to extend from 1991 through June 30, 2016.[5] On January 1, 2016, Puig acquired the fragrance license from Shiseido for $79.2 million and compensated the early termination of the license for $22.6 million.[6] With this purchase, Puig now holds control of both the fashion and fragrance divisions of the Jean Paul Gaultier brand.[7] A new advertising campaign was premiered in Paris during a relaunch party held by Puig on January 28, 2016, in which a joint commercial for Le Male and Classique retains the "Casta diva" aria from the original commercial and American model Chris Bunn portrays the male sailor.[8]

Le Male has since been regarded as a classic men's fragrance by a number of publications, including Forbes,[9] GQ,[10] and Men's Health.[11] Graeme Campbell from Highsnobiety wrote that "like Polo Sport, Diesel Plus Plus, and Versace Blue Jeans, [Le Male] was one of those scents that was simply everywhere at the time [for] anyone who grew up in the '90s or early '00s"; he added that "along with unisex newcomers such as CK One, it blindsided a market dominated by beefier, more masculine fragrances [and] was sexy and fell right in line with the '90s 'metrosexual,' so much that it wasn’t uncommon for women to wear it".[12]

The brand's fragrance general manager Thomas James acknowledged Le Male and Classique as "the flagship of the brand [that] represent all the Jean Paul Gaultier values [and will] continue to be an emblematic and historical pillar" at the launch of the women's fragrance Scandal in 2017.[13]

Products

Flanker fragrances

A bottle of Ultra Male, a flanker fragrance of Le Male introduced in 2016
  Indicates repackaging of the original fragrance
List of Le Male flanker fragrances
Year Name Concentration Perfumer Ref.
2003 Le Male Jean Paul Cool Eau de toilette
2004 Le Male Eau d'Ete 2004
2005 Le Male Les d'Ete 2005 Francis Kurkdjian
2006 Le Male Kilt
Le Male Stimulating Body Spray Francis Kurkdjian
2007 Fleur du Male Francis Kurkdjian
Le Male Scuba Diver
Le Male Tonique Cologne
2008 Cologne Tonique Le Male Summer 2008
La Cologne Fleur du Male Francis Kurkdjian
2009 Le Male Limited Edition 2009
Le Male Summer 2009
2010 Le Male Prestige Edition
Le Male Summer 2010 Eau de toilette
Le Male Terrible Aurelien Guichard
Super Le Male Collector
2011 Le Male Love Actually
Le Male Shaker
Le Male Silver My Skin
Le Male Summer 2011 Eau de toilette
Le Male Terrible Shaker Eau de toilette Aurelien Guichard
2012 Le Male Gladiator
Le Male Summer 2012 Eau de toilette
2013 Le Beau Male Eau de toilette Francis Kurkdjian
Le Male Couple
Le Male Summer 2013 Eau de toilette
2014 Le Beau Male Capitaine Collector Eau de toilette Francis Kurkdjian
Le Beau Male Edition Collector Eau de toilette Francis Kurkdjian
Le Beau Male Summer 2014 Eau de toilette
Le Male Capitaine Collector
Le Male Edition Collector
Le Male Pin-Up Collectors Edition
Le Male Summer 2014 Eau de toilette
2015 Le Male Pirate Edition
Le Male Summer 2015 Eau de toilette
Ultra Male Eau de toilette intense Francis Kurkdjian
2016 Le Male Essence de Parfum Eau de parfum Quentin Bisch
Le Male Popeye Eau Fraiche Eau de toilette Nathalie Gracia-Cetto
2017 Le Male Collector Edition 2017
Le Male Superman Eau Fraiche Eau de toilette Nathalie Gracia-Cetto
2018 Le Male Collector Edition 2018
Le Male Eau Fraiche André Edition Eau de toilette Nathalie Gracia-Cetto
Le Male Eau Fraiche Gaultier Airlines Eau de toilette Nathalie Gracia-Cetto [18]
Le Male In the Navy Eau de toilette Quentin Bisch [19]
Nathalie Gracia-Cetto
2019 Le Beau Eau de toilette Quentin Bisch [20]
Sonia Constant
Le Male Collector's Snow Globe
Le Male Supreme Edition Eau de toilette Francis Kurkdjian
2020 Le Male Aviator Eau de toilette Christophe Raynaud
Le Male Airlines
Le Male Pride Collector
Le Male Le Parfum Parfum Quentin Bisch [21]
Nathalie Gracia-Cetto

References

  1. Levy, Viola (April 9, 2014). "A look back on Le Male an exclusive interview with perfumer Francis Kurkdjian". Glass. Retrieved March 16, 2020.
  2. "Oriental Fougere Perfume Group". Fragrantica. Retrieved March 24, 2020.
  3. "Le Male Jean Paul Gaultier cologne a fragrance for men 1995". Fragrantica. Retrieved March 24, 2020.
  4. Birrell, Alice (March 9, 2016). "10 things to know about Jean Paul Gaultier". Vogue Australia. Retrieved March 19, 2020.
  5. "The Shiseido group started negotiation with Puig to sell IP rights of Jean Paul Gaultier regarding fragrance products" (PDF). Shiseido. Retrieved March 17, 2020.
  6. Noor, Hibah (February 9, 2015). "Puig and Shiseido to terminate Jean Paul Gaultier fragrance license". DutyFree Magazine. Retrieved March 17, 2020.
  7. Rozario, Kevin (January 5, 2016). "Puig takes on JPG scents and targets €2bn". TRBusiness. Retrieved March 17, 2020.
  8. Pawson, Helen (February 1, 2016). "Puig and Jean Paul Gaultier turn on the glamour in Paris". The Moodie Davitt Report. Retrieved March 24, 2020.
  9. Dao, Dan (September 9, 2019). "The Best Classic Fragrances For Men". Forbes. Retrieved March 17, 2020.
  10. Hurly, Adam (December 3, 2018). "10 Classic Colognes That Will Never Let You Down". GQ. Retrieved March 17, 2020.
  11. Chiudioni, Riccardo (September 26, 2019). "Best Men's Fragrances and Colognes (Plus, How to Choose the Right Scent for You)". Men's Health. Retrieved March 17, 2020.
  12. Campbell, Graeme (April 9, 2019). "Gaultier;s Le Male Scent Is a Supreme Collectible for the Ages". Highsnobiety. Retrieved March 19, 2020.
  13. Pawson, Helen (June 26, 2017). "Notes on a Scandal: Puig unveils new Jean Paul Gaultier feminine fragrance". The Moodie Davitt Report. Retrieved March 19, 2020.
  14. "Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male Eau de Toilette Natural Spray". Nordstrom. Retrieved March 17, 2020.
  15. "Jean Paul Gaultier Men's "Le Male" Soothing Alcohol-Free After Shave Balm, 3.4 fl. oz. & Reviews". Macy's. Retrieved March 19, 2020.
  16. "Jean Paul Gaultier Men's "Le Male" After Shave Lotion, 4.2 oz & Reviews". Macy's. Retrieved March 19, 2020.
  17. "Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male Deodorant". Nordstrom. Retrieved March 17, 2020.
  18. Pentol, Andrew (June 18, 2018). "Puig launches Jean-Paul Gaultier travel exclusives". TRBusiness. Retrieved March 16, 2020.
  19. Turner, Charlotte (February 8, 2018). "Jean Paul Gaultier's iconic Le Mâle scent joins the Navy". TRBusiness. Retrieved March 16, 2020.
  20. Turner, Charlotte (September 25, 2019). "Jean Paul Gaultier's Classic and Le Mâle reborn for Belle & Beau scents". TRBusiness. Retrieved March 16, 2020.
  21. "Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male Le Parfum". Parfumo. Retrieved June 21, 2020.
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