Stefano Ghisolfi

Stefano Ghisolfi (born February 18, 1993) is an Italian professional rock climber and sport climber. He participates in international competitions in three disciplines: Lead, Bouldering and Speed, obtaining his best results in Lead climbing. On rock, he redpointed 9b+ (5.15c),[1] onsighted 8c (5.14b)[2] and solved a 8B+ (V14) boulder problem.[3]

Stefano Ghisolfi
Ghisolfi competing at the European Championships, Chamonix, 2013.
Personal information
Born (1993-02-18) February 18, 1993
Turin, Italy
OccupationProfessional rock climber and sport climber
Height170 cm (5 ft 7 in)
Weight58 kg (128 lb)
Climbing career
Type of climberLead climbing, bouldering
Highest grade
Known forFourth climber in history to redpoint a 9b+ (5.15c) route
Medal record
World Cup
2017Lead
2018Lead
Updated on December 7, 2018.

In December 2018, by climbing Perfecto Mundo (Margalef, ESP), he became the fourth climber in history to redpoint a 9b+ (5.15c) route.[1]

Biography

In 2007, Ghisolfi participated in his first international competition: the IFSC European Youth Cup.

Both in 2010 and 2011, he won the bronze medal in Lead climbing at the IFSC World Youth Championships.[4] In the same years, he also participated in the IFSC World Championships as a senior competitor, for all disciplines (lead, bouldring and speed) and placed tenth in the overall ranking.

On October 13, 2012 he first got on podium in the World Cup, obtaining a bronze medal in Xining, China. He obtained gold medals in the World Cup stages at Wujiang (China), in 2014, Xiamen (China), in 2016, and then again at Wujiang (China), in 2017.

On November 2, 2015 he first ascended Lapsus in Andonno (Italy), a 70 hold route for which he proposed a 9b (5.15b) grade.[5]

On December 7, 2018, by climbing the impressive 9b+ (5.15c) route Perfecto Mundo (Margalef, ESP), he became the fourth climber in history to redpoint a route at that grade, after Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma, and Alex Megos.[1]

On September 2, 2020, he made the second ascent of Change, 9b+ (5.15c), in Flatanger, Norway. This route was the first of the grade, established by Adam Ondra in 2012.[6]

Rankings

Climbing World Cup[7]
Discipline 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018
Lead 21 24 10 10 9 9 4 2 2
Bouldering 65 83 30
Speed 17 30 38
Combined 10 10 4 9

Climbing World Championships

Youth[4][8]

Discipline 2008
Youth B		 2009
Youth A		 2010
Youth A		 2011
Juniors		 2012
Juniors
Lead 5 15 3 3 13
Speed 5 6 5 - 17

Adult[4]

Discipline 2011 2012 2014 2016 2018
Lead 27 16 10 7 22
Bouldering 25 16
Speed 30 33

Climbing European Championships

Youth[4]

Discipline 2012
Juniors
Lead 3

Adult[4]

Discipline 2010 2013 2015 2017
Lead 37 16 7 10
Bouldering 37 35 35 -
Speed 18 32 26 -

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

Lead[4]
Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
201211
20130
201411
20150
2016112
20171113
2018224
Total54211

Number of medals in the Climbing European Youth Cup

Lead[4]
Season Category Gold Silver Bronze Total
2011Juniors134
2012Juniors11
Total1135

Speed[4]
Season Category Gold Silver Bronze Total
2011Juniors22
Total0022

Rock climbing

Redpointed routes

9b+ (5.15c):

9b (5.15b):

9a+ (5.15a):

9a (5.14d):

  • Thunder Ribes - Massone (Arco, (ITA)) - December 16, 2016 - Combination of the routes Reini’s Vibes, Ultima Pietra, and Stonehenge.
  • L'Attimo - Covolo (ITA) - October 11, 2015[17] - First ascent by Silvio Reffo, 2012
  • Underground - Massone (Arco, (ITA)) - July 5, 2014 - First ascent by Manfred Stuffer, 1998
  • Biologico - Narango (Arco, (ITA)) - June 8, 2014 - First ascent by Adam Ondra, 2012
  • TCT - Gravere (ITA) - May 31, 2014 - First ascent
  • Grandi Gesti - Grotta dell'Arenauta (Sperlonga, ITA) - December 30, 2013 - First ascent by Gianluca Daniele, 2009
  • Ground Zero - Tetto di Sarre (ITA) - June 9, 2013 - First ascent by Alberto Gnerro, 2002[18]

Onsighted routes

8c (5.14b):

8b+ (5.14a):

  • Falconeti - Montsant (ESP) - January 2013[19]
  • L-mens - Montsant (ESP) - January 2013[19]

Boulder problems

Ghisolfi climbed five 8B (V13) and two 8B+ (V14) boulder problems.[3]

He won the 2013, 2014, 2015 and 2016 editions of Melloblocco.[20]

See also

References
  1. Instagram, ed. (December 7, 2018). "Perfecto mundo 9b+, mission accomplished". Retrieved December 7, 2018.
  2. Planet Mountain, ed. (January 9, 2017). "Stefano Ghisolfi 8c onsight". Retrieved December 7, 2018.
  3. planetmountain.com, ed. (January 5, 2012). "Stefano Ghisolfi da 8B+ a Varazze". Retrieved February 5, 2013.
  4. IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "Ghisolfi's profile and rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  5. planetmountain.com, ed. (November 2, 2015). "Stefano Ghisolfi libera Lapsus ad Andonno, il primo 9b in Italia". Retrieved November 4, 2015.
  6. Natalie Berry, ed. (September 28, 2020). "Second Ascent of Change 9b+ by Stefano Ghisolfi". Retrieved October 14, 2020.
  7. IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  8. WY Championships 2011, not included in Ghisolfi's IFSC profile
  9. "NEWSFLASH: Second Ascent of Change 9b+ by Stefano Ghisolfi". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2020-09-29.
  10. "First Round, First Minute is done! Today I finally climbed my second 9b, FA". January 30, 2017. Retrieved January 30, 2017.
  11. planetmountain.com, ed. (March 21, 2017). "Stefano Ghisolfi sale La Rambla a Siurana al quarto tentativo". Retrieved March 20, 2017.
  12. planetmountain.com, ed. (February 14, 2017). "Stefano Ghisolfi e Pietro Biagini, grandi salite a Margalef e Varazze". Retrieved January 31, 2017.
  13. planetmountain.com, ed. (December 20, 2016). "Stefano Ghisolfi chiude Ultimatum a Massone, nuovo 9a+ ad Arco". Retrieved December 27, 2016.
  14. planetmountain.com, ed. (June 23, 2015). "Stefano Ghisolfi chiude Biographie 9a+ a Ceuse". Retrieved July 7, 2015.
  15. planetmountain.com, ed. (March 15, 2015). "Stefano Ghisolfi risolve Demencia Senil 9a+ a Margalef". Retrieved November 4, 2015.
  16. planetmountain.com, ed. (August 25, 2014). "Stefano Ghisolfi, primo 9a+ con Le moustache qui fâche". Retrieved July 7, 2015.
  17. planetmountain.com, ed. (October 13, 2015). "Stefano Ghisolfi da 9a in un weekend al Covolo". Retrieved November 4, 2015.
  18. planetmountain.com, ed. (June 10, 2013). "Stefano Ghisolfi da 9a al Tetto di Sarre in Aosta". Retrieved June 10, 2013.
  19. planetmountain.com, ed. (January 11, 2013). "Stefano Ghisolfi, due 8b+ a vista in Spagna". Retrieved February 5, 2013.
  20. planetmountain.com, ed. (May 5, 2013). "Melloblocco 2013: day ten, l'arrivederci alla Valle". Retrieved May 6, 2013.
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