Shingwedzi

During the 19th century the area had only a small native population,[5] as the presence of predators and tsetse fly prevented cattle husbandry. To the immediate east Soshangane established himself as overlord of the lower Bileni/Limpopo valley from 1827/28 to 1835,[6] displacing resident Tsonga people in clashes like the Battle of Xihaheni, while moving northwards.

The rinderpest epidemic of 1896 however ravaged the region's buffalo population, and with it the tsetse fly, the vector of nagana or sleeping sickness.[7] Some now looked at the region for its economic prospects. By the end of the 19th century this remote northeastern part of South Africa was the abode of poachers, illegal loggers, illegal prospecters and illegal recruiters of black labour from across the border.[8]

In December 1902, Leonard Ledeboer, a Zoutpansberg resident who had switched sides during the war, suggested the establishment of a reserve to sir Godfrey Lagden of the Department of Native Affairs.[7] The Administrative Proclamation No. 19 of May 1903 which established the Singwitsi Reserve, also brought an end to the lawless exploitation of the region. The reserve boundary went from the Groot and Klein Letaba confluence in a straight line north to Shikumdu Hill, turning northeastwards to the Levuvhu and Crook's Corner. From the Limpopo it ran south along the Portuguese border to the Olifants, and west along the Letaba to the aforementioned confluence.[9] The remote and beautiful reserve could boast with hills topped by baobab trees, dramatic gorges, including Lanner Gorge, lush riparian vegetation, plains with impressive mopane trees, and flood plains adorned with ilala palms and fever trees.[5]

Shingwedzi's 31 tourist huts were completed in 1933, but these were only enclosed by a fence much later.[11] Construction of Punda Maria's tourist huts was likewise undertaken during the same year. Current accommodation of Shingwedzi camp consists of 66 bungalows, 12 huts, 1 family cottage and 1 guest house, besides 50 camping sites. A new administrative complex was added in 1982/3, then outside the camp, and the A-circle huts were upgraded to bungalows. A landing strip is situated just south of the camp.

The Kanniedood dam was constructed 9km downstream of the camp in 1978, but was demolished 40 years later, in 2018, in line with a rehabilitation project which aims to limit artificial water points for animals.[12] The artificial supply of water in a naturally dry region caused erosion and environmental degradation. Rare herbivore species such as roan suffered due to increased grazing competition by abundant grazers,[12] and from predation by lions which likewise expanded their territories.

The Shingwedzi River flows only during the summer months, and diminishes to shrinking pools in winter.[4] Heavy rains are normal at the start of each year, which may affect tourist roads, bridges, picnic spots and bush camps. On 24 February 2000 the Shingwedzi River reached record levels when cyclone Leon–Eline struck the northern lowveld. These levels were surpassed on 20 January 2013 when Shingwedzi and Sirheni camps were completely submerged by flood water[14] after 400 mm of rain in a week caused the Mphongolo and Shingwidzi Rivers to burst their banks.[15] 262 people were evacuated on the 20th and airlifted to safety the next day. Some staff were trapped as roads became submerged and survived by taking shelter in trees or on roofs. Some staff and tourists lost all their belongings, and the cost of rebuilding was over R150 million.[15] The camp was reopened for tourists in June 2013.[16]

The camp is situated in elephant country, and breeding herds of 50 to 60 animals frequent the vicinity. The tusks of a local elephant bull named "Shingwedzi" are now displayed in the museum at Letaba. "Shingwedzi" died in 1981 near the camp, and was one of the so-called "magnificent seven" that roamed the park during the 1970s and 80s.[4] Other Afrotheria which are sparsely resident include the aardvark, Petrodromus, two Elephantulus species and the golden mole. Two species of hyrax are allopatrically distributed, namely the yellow-spotted hyrax which occurs commonly along the northern bush-clad hills and sandstone outcrops, and the rock hyrax, which occurs patchily southwards of the Bubube and Shingwedzi Rivers, but no further south than the Olifants.[17] Ranger D. Swart reported seeing a group of 6 bat-eared foxes near Shingwedzi in 1967, a species previously thought to be restricted to the western parts of southern Africa. Further sightings in 1967 and 1969 confirmed their presence.[18]

Anthrax, caused by the bacterium Bacillus anthracis, is endemic to the area, and causes sporadic outbreaks.[19] It affects mainly ungulates, but also carnivores and humans. As anthrax inhibits blood clotting, the blood of deceased animals seep into the soil. The spores survive for decades in substrates with elevated calcium content or neutral-to-alkaline pH levels.[19]

The immediate vicinity of Shingwedzi camp contains some riparian vegetation with large trees, and narrow alluvial plains created by centuries of flooding, flank the river on each side. Here Transvaal mustard trees, weeping boer-bean, sausage tree, Natal mahogany and brack thorn may be found, but further afield the land is dominated by mopane shrub, punctuated by apple-leaf trees.[20]

In 1905 chief Sundhuza Mhinga and his Mhinga clan were dispossessed of their land in this area, and moved to land west of the park. In 1999 chief Shilungwa Mhinga claimed all land in the park north of the Shingwedzi River, and intended to use the southern portion for ecotourism hotels and other parts for lodges. Land restitution legislation however assists only those dispossessed since 1913, so as to avoid conflicting claims.[21]

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  Yellow-billed stork and crocodiles patrolling the flooded causeway
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  Elephants on the sandy river bed
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  Preserved tusks of "Shingwedzi" (c.1934-1981) at the museum in Letaba camp
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  Real fan palm at the southern limit of its range