St John the Baptist, Tideswell

Tideswell church, one of the most important parish churches in Derbyshire

Although it is not actually a cathedral, due to its size and splendour, the church is widely known as the "Cathedral of the Peak". It is one of the most famous churches in Derbyshire, and a Grade I listed building.[1]

In 1250–51, the church became embroiled in a dispute between Lichfield Cathedral and Lenton Priory in Nottinghamshire. Tideswell was one of a number of parishes that had been granted to Lenton Priory by the Peverel family during the 11th century. Following William Peverel the Younger's accusations of treason, the family's lands in the Peak District were seized by the crown and granted by King Henry II to his son, John (later John, King of England). After acceding to the throne, John granted the lands to the Bishop of Lichfield and in turn they passed to the Dean and Chapter of Lichfield Cathedral. This transfer started approximately 300 years of disagreement between the priory and cathedral about who was rightful owner of the property. Litigation continued throughout this period, including suits in the Vatican Court on several occasions.[2]

Tideswell church became directly involved in the disagreement when it became violent in 1250–51. The monks of Lenton Priory armed themselves and attempted to steal wool and lambs from Tideswell, which was one of the disputed parishes controlled by Lichfield. Pre-empting the monk's attack, the Dean of Lichfield cathedral ordered the wool and sheep to be kept within the nave of Tideswell church. However the monks of Lenton did not honour the church's sanctuary rights and broke into the building. A fight ensued and 18 lambs were killed within the church: either trampled under the horses' hooves or butchered by the attackers' weapons. The monks managed to carry off 14 of the lambs.[2]

A commission assembled by Pope Innocent IV harshly fined the monks of Lenton Priory. However the disputes continued until Lenton was dissolved by King Henry VIII.[2]

The church, which replaced a small Norman church, was constructed between approximately 1320 and 1400. The building work was delayed by the Black Death. There are two main styles: the nave, aisles and transepts are in late gothic style, and both the chancel and tower are in perpendicular style.

There was major restoration started in 1873 by John Dando Sedding which was a genuine restoration rather than a reconstruction.[3] The restoration work involved the replacement of the oak roof and re-leading. However, the restoration undertaken by the architect was viewed favourably by those who preferred the preservation of fabric rather than its replacement. The Manchester Courier and Lancashire General Advertiser wrote on 25 August 1874:

It is a relief to find so fine and pure a specimen of fourteenth century architecture in trustworthy hands. We have not to complain here as in so many instances of so-called restoration of that passion for the destruction of old work which, on the plea of restoration, has removed some of the most characteristic features of our ancient Gothic buildings. No single piece of old work not obviously unfit from decay to remain has been allowed to disappear. The mistakes of careless times have with great discrimination been remedied; the old landmarks, where recoverable, have been restored, and great judgement has evidently been exercised in the new work introduced[4]

The chapel in the south transept was restored as a gift of James Bower Brown of Woodthorpe Hall, Sheffield, under the supervision of Innocent and Brown, architects of Sheffield. The tomb of Sir Thurstan de Bower and Lady Margaret was reconstructed by the sculptor Thomas Earp of London.

The chancel was reopened on 30 September 1875.[5] The carving of the figures in stone and wood was executed by Mr. Green of Manchester, and the oak carving of the chancel stalls was done by Mr. Tooley of Bury St. Edmunds. The contractor for the stonework was Messrs. Hill of Tideswell.

Restoration work continued until 1905, when the gallery of 1826 was removed from under the tower. John Oldrid Scott provided new south doors which contained panels cut from an oak beam taken from the Old Guild Hall in the village centre. The six upper panels were filled with traceried carving.[6]

In Churches and Chapels in The County of Derby, Rawlins described St John's as being:

without exception the most perfect and beautiful specimen of pointed architecture to be found in the County, - or perhaps in any other parish church of its size in the entire Kingdom.[7]

The church is in a joint parish with

• St John the Evangelist's Church, Cressbrook
• Christ Church, Litton
• St Anne's Church, Millers Dale
• St Margaret's Church, Wormhill

There are brasses to Sir John Foljamb, d. 1383 (restored) and to Bishop Robert Purseglove, d. 1579, who is depicted in pre-English Reformation vestments.

In the middle of the chancel there is an altar tomb. Within lies Sir Samson Meverill (1388–1462), allegedly one of the victors of Agincourt. The tomb has a marble slab beneath which is a stone cadaver decorated with an alabaster frieze. The tomb was restored in 1876.

In the South transept there are two chapels. The Lytton chapel has one of the old bells on the floor, while nearby is the tomb of Robert (d. 1483) and his wife Isabel (d. 1458) Lytton. The Bower chapel contains a rather impressive tomb of (possibly) Sir Thurstan and his wife Margret de Bower. The inscription mentions de Bower, but there is some debate about the accuracy.[8] The recumbent alabaster figures are well worn.

The churchyard contains war graves of seven service personnel of World War I.[9]

• 
  Tomb of Sir Sampson Meveril
• 
  Inscription around the "de Bower" tomb
• 
  Alabaster effigies, commonly thought to represent Sir Thurstan de Bower and his wife Margaret

The ends of the pews have intricate carvings by the local, curiously named, Advent Hunstone. These show the sacraments; baptism, confirmation, communion, marriage, absolution, ordination and the last rites.[10] The tower screen is by John Oldrid Scott and dates from 1904.

The Tree of Jesse east window is by Heaton, Butler and Bayne of Nottingham and dates from 1875. The west window is a Te Deum by Hardman and Powell dating from 1907. A new window was inserted in 1996 as a memorial to William Newton (1750-1830), the Minstrel of the Peak. This window is by Alfred Fisher of Chapel Studio.

• 
  East window, Tree of Jesse, Heaton, Butler and Bayne 1876
• 
  Memorial to William Newton by Alfred Fisher of Chapel Studio 1996
• 
  South Transept, The Resurrection
• 
  West window, Te Deum, Hardman and Powell, 1907

The main organ in the north transept of St John the Baptist's Church, Tideswell

The church possesses two pipe organs. The main organ dates from 1895 and is by the builder Forster and Andrews of Hull. A specification of the main organ can be found on the National Pipe Organ Register.[11] The chancel organ dates from 1979. It is an extension organ by the Johnson Organ Company. A specification of the chancel organ can also be found on the National Pipe Organ Register.[12]

Wikimedia Commons has media related to St John the Baptist, Tideswell.

• Grade I listed churches in Derbyshire

• Official website
• Friends of St Johns, Tideswell