Thierry Mugler

Manfred Thierry Mugler (French pronunciation: ​[tjɛʁi myɡlɛʁ]; born 21 December 1948) is a French fashion designer.

Thierry Mugler
Born
Manfred Thierry Mugler

(1948-12-21) 21 December 1948
Strasbourg, France
OccupationFashion designer
Known forAngel fragrance, perfumes, Demi Moore's dress from Indecent Proposal

Early life and education

Mugler was born in Strasbourg, France. His passion led him to focus more on drawing than on school, and at the age of 9, he began to study classical dance.[1] By 14, he joined the ballet corps for the Rhin Opera (Opéra national du Rhin).[2]

At the same time, Mugler began formal interior design training at the Strasbourg School of Decorative Arts.[3]

Career

At the age of 24, Mugler moved to Paris, France. He began designing clothes for Parisian boutique, Gudule. At 26, Mugler, who was working as a freelance designer, began to design for a variety of large ready-to-wear fashion houses in Paris, Milan, London and Barcelona.[3]

In 1973, Mugler created his first personal collection called "Café de Paris". The style of the collection was both sophisticated and urban. Melka Tréanton, a powerful fashion editor, helped to launch his career. In 1976, she asked him to show his work in Tokyo for an event organized by Shiseido.[4] In 1978, he opened his first Paris boutique at the Place des Victoires in the 1er Arrondissement. At the same time, Thierry Mugler launched a fashion collection for men.

During the 1980s and 1990s, Thierry Mugler became an internationally recognized designer, and his collections garnered much commercial success. At the request of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, he completed his first haute couture collection in 1992.[5]

He designed the dresses of Viktor Lazlo for Hosting Eurovision 1987Throwback Thursday: 1987.

He created the famous black dress worn by Demi Moore in the 1993 movie, Indecent Proposal.

An evening dress by Thierry Mugler in an Indianapolis Museum of Art exhibit
A dress by Thierry Mugler in an Indianapolis Museum of Art exhibit

Mugler published his first photography book in 1988, Thierry Mugler: Photographer.[6] This was followed by a monograph in 1999 entitled, Fashion Fetish Fantasy which assembles photos of his creations.[7]

Mugler also directs short films, advertising films and video clips. He regularly designs costumes for musical comedies, concerts, operas and the theatre (including Macbeth for the Comédie Française). He has worked with Robert Altman and George Michael (he directed the video for Michael's "Too Funky" in 1992). He also directed the first advertising film for one of his fragrances, Alien.

Clarins has held the rights to his name Thierry Mugler since 1997.[8]

Retirement from Fashion

Clarins shuttered the ready-to-wear component of Mugler's brand in 2003, due to financial losses; however, they kept the perfume division open as it was profitable.[9] Mugler left fashion in 2002.[10] When asked about the subject he has said: "Fashion is beautiful, 3-D art on a human being. But it wasn’t enough, which is why I went on to create in other ways. For me, it wasn’t the right tool anymore. But perfume still interests me".[11]

In 2002 Mugler collaborated with the Cirque du Soleil. He directed "Extravaganza", one of the scenes of Zumanity, and also created all of the costumes and the identity of the characters in the show.

In 2008 the Mugler brand launched Thierry Mugler Beauty, a high-end line of cosmetics.

In 2009, Mugler worked as artistic advisor to singer Beyoncé.[12] He created the costumes for her "I Am... World Tour".[2]

In September 2010, Nicola Formichetti was announced to be the Creative Director of the Thierry Mugler brand. He changed the brand name to MUGLER, removing the first name, and in January 2011, he launched the revival of the brand's menswear collection in collaboration with Romain Kremer.[13]

An April 2010 New York Times story discussed Mugler's cosmetic transformation. "[Mugler has] taken to calling himself Manfred and transformed his body...into what is apparently a 240-pound spectacle of muscle and nipple and tattoo..."[8]

With over two years of being the creative director of MUGLER, Formichetti announced in April 2013 that he and the fashion house will be parting ways. Formichetti left MUGLER to work for the Italian brand Diesel.

In December 2013, House of Mugler announced David Koma as the artistic director.[14]

In 2016, Mugler created and directed the music video and staging for San Marino's Eurovision Song Contest entry I Didn't Know performed by Turkish singer Serhat.[15]

Despite retiring from his brand in 2003, he made the exception to design under his name "House of Mugler" for the Met gala in 2019, and for a dear friend of his, Kim Kardashian. Getting his inspiration from Sophia Loren in Boy on a Dolphin, Mugler envisioned a wet California girl; hence the creation of the "wet couture dress".[16][17]

Fragrances
Further information: Angel (perfume)
Angel for men (A*Men)

Mugler's first perfume appeared in 1992 and was called Angel. "Angel" contains a combination of praline and chocolate mixed with a strong accord of patchouli. It would be a part of a new fragrance type called gourmand. The Angel bottle, a design in the shape of a faceted star, was created by the Brosse Master Glassmakers. Fans of the fragrance include Diana Ross, Barbara Walters, Eva Mendes, and Hillary Clinton.[18]

In 1996 Mugler followed up Angel with a male version named Angel Men or A*Men. This fragrance includes notes of caramel, coffee, vanilla, patchouli, and honey.

In 2005, Alien was created, the second major Thierry Mugler fragrance. Also in 2005, Thierry Mugler launched the Thierry Mugler Perfume Workshops", which are open to the general public and led by specialists of the perfumery and oenology world.

Angel and Alien together produce about $280 million in sales annually.[19]

In 2010, the fragrance Womanity was released by the house of Mugler.[20]

Mugler's newest fragrance, Angel Muse, was released in 2015.

In 2006, Thierry Mugler completed a project for the launch of Tom Tykwer's film "Perfume". In collaboration with the IFF company, Thierry Mugler created a box set of fifteen compositions.

During 2007, still following the metamorphosis theme, Mugler launched Mirror, Mirror, a collection of five fragrances, created as "perfume-trickery" to "enhance one’s presence".

Personal life

Mugler is openly gay, and is a longtime bodybuilder.[21] Since his departure from fashion he has become notably reclusive, during this time he began going by his first name, Manfred, and began extensive bodybuilding. Speaking on the subject Thierry-Maxime Loriot has said, "He told me that after he left the fashion industry, it annoyed him when people recognized him. He felt 'Thierry Mugler' was a label, a brand. He wanted to move on to other things".[10]

References
  1. Menkes, Suzy (16 July 2019). "Manfred Thierry Mugler: Back in Fashion". British Vogue. Retrieved 16 October 2019.
  2. "Mugler Joins the Cirque". WWD. Retrieved 16 October 2019.
  3. Shardlow, Phoebe (11 February 2019). "Exploring Thierry Mugler's Everlasting Impact on Fashion". Elle.
  4. "Window Display Exhibition in Paris to Commemorate the 30th Anniversary of Shiseido Cosmetics Sales in France" (PDF) (Press release). 19 August 2010. Retrieved 16 October 2019.
  5. "Turbulence Continues off High Fashion's Runways : Mugler Sets Couture Line". The New York Times International Edition. 4 February 1992. Retrieved 16 October 2019.
  6. Thierry Mugler: Photographer
  7. Thierry Mugler: Fashion Fetish Fantasy
  8. Wilson, Eric (30 April 2010). "Thierry Mugler, a Designer Transformed". The New York Times. p. ST1. ISSN 0362-4331.
  9. "Thierry Mugler bids au revoir to couture. (News)". European Cosmetic Markets. 20 (2). February 2003.
  10. Flanagan, Noreen (1 March 2019). "An Exclusive Interview with Fashion's OG Bad Boy, the Mysterious Manfred Thierry Mugler". Fashion.
  11. Long, April (28 October 2017). "Thierry Mugler Glances Back at His Fantastical Past". Elle.
  12. Foley, Bridget (26 March 2009). "Thierry Mugler to Design Beyonce Tour". WWD.
  13. Menkes, Suzy (17 January 2013). "On top of the world". The New York Times International Edition. Retrieved 16 October 2019.
  14. Socha, Miles (12 December 2013). "Thierry Mugler Names David Koma Artistic Director". WWD.
  15. Roxburgh, Gordon (9 March 2016). "San Marino: Serhat presents "I Didn't Know"". Retrieved 16 October 2019.
  16. Lezmi, Josh (6 May 2019). "The Inspiration Behind Kim Kardashian's Met Gala Look". Retrieved 16 October 2019.
  17. "Why This Wild '80s Designer Is Making a Comeback". The Cut. 27 February 2019.
  18. "The Celebrity Fragrance Guide | Colognes, Perfumes & Fragrances that Celebrities Wear". The Celebrity Fragrance Guide.
  19. Wilson, Eric (30 April 2010). "Thierry Mugler, Still Creating a Stir". The New York Times International Edition. Retrieved 16 October 2019.
  20. womanity.com
  21. "Thierry Mugler". Vice. 6 April 2010.
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