Twelve Ornaments

The Twelve Ornaments (Chinese: 十二章; pinyin: Shí'èr zhāng) are a group of ancient Chinese symbols and designs that are considered highly auspicious. They were employed in the decoration of textile fabrics in ancient China, which signified authority and power, and were embroidered on vestments of state.

An illustration of the Twelve Ornaments as documented in the Records of the Grand Historian.

History

According to the Book of Documents, the Twelve Ornaments were referred to by Emperor Shun, one of the legendary Three Sovereigns and Five Emperors, as being ancient in his time. Oral tradition holds that he lived sometime between 2294 and 2184 BC.[1] According to the book, the emperor wished for the symbols to be used on official robes of the state.

“I wish,” said the Emperor, “to see the emblematic figures of the ancients: the sun, the moon, the stars, the mountain, the dragon, and the flowery fowl, which are depicted on the upper garment; the temple-cup, the aquatic grass, the flames, the grain of rice, the hatchet, and the symbol of distinction, which are embroidered on the lower garment; I wish to see all these displayed with the five colors, so as to form the official robes; it is yours to adjust them clearly.”[2] Only the emperor had the right to wear the complete set if twelve emblems painted or embroidered on his ropes if ceremony.[3]

The twelve ornaments featured in the Twelve Symbols national emblem of China, which was the state emblem from 1913-1928.

Symbols
Portrait of the Wanli Emperor's mianfu featuring the twelve ornaments
Twelve Symbols national emblem, the state emblem of China from 1913-1928

The portrait of the Wanli Emperor (1563–1620) in his mianfu features all twelve ornaments:

On the upper Robe
  • the sun (日, rì) with the three-legged crow
  • the moon (月, yuè) with the moon rabbit in it, who is constantly pounding the elixir of life
  • the three stars (星辰, xīngchén), which could also be the Fu Lu Shou stars, which symbolise happiness, prosperity, and longevity
  • the sacred mountains (山, shān), which symbolize stability and tranquility
  • the dragon (龍, lóng), symbol of adaptability and strength
  • the pheasant (華蟲), which is however the phoenix (鳳凰, fenghuang), symbol of peace and refinement

The dragon and phoenix represent the natural world. In yin and yang terminology, a dragon is male yang and the phoenix a female yin. Therefore, the emperor was often identified as the dragon, while the empress was the phoenix. This was also reflected in the robes they wore.

On the lower robe
  • two cups (宗彝, zōng yí), which are a sacrificial utensil, sometimes feature patterns containing each a tiger and a monkey, and symbolize faithfulness and respect
  • a spray of pondweed or algae (藻, zǎo), a symbol of brightness and purity
  • fire (火, huǒ), which symbolises brightness.
  • grains of rice (粉米, fěn mǐ), which symbolise nourishment and the country's agriculture, but also wealth
  • an axe (黼, fǔ), symbol of courage and resolution, but also executive justice.
  • The figure 亞 (黻, fú) underneath the axe represents two animals with their backside together. This symbolises the capability to make a clear distinction between right and wrong.

Influences

In Japan, Emperor Monmu introduced the Twelve Ornaments via Taihō Code.

The Gojong of Korea used the Twelve Ornaments on his enthronement costume while he became the Emperor of Korea in 1897.

See also

References
  1. C.A.S, Williams (September 2001). Chinese Symbolism and Art Motifs (4th ed.). Tuttle Publishing. p. 386. ISBN 0-8048-3704-X.
  2. James Legge, "Sacred Books of the East/Volume 3/The Shu/Part 2/Yi and Ki", Wikisource.
  3. C.A.S, Williams (September 2001). Chinese Symbolism and Art Motifs (4th ed.). Tuttle Publishing. p. 387. ISBN 0-8048-3704-X.
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