Ballyryan

Ballyryan or Ballyreen (Irish: Baile Uí Rinn; Ring's homestead) is a small inland mostly west-facing limestone crag in The Burren in County Clare, Ireland. It is popular with rock climbers due to its easy access, the range of short easy-to-intermediate rock climbs, and its close proximity to the much larger and highly regarded, Ailladie rock-climbing sea-cliff; Ailladie is also locally known as the Ballyreen Cliffs or Ballyreen Point.

Ballyryan (Ballyreen)
Irish: Baile Uí Rinn; Ring's homestead
Climbers on Right Crack (VDiff) in Ballyran
Location of Ballyryan crag in Ireland
Location
Nearest city6 km south of Fanore
8 km north of Doolin
RangeThe Burren
Coordinates53°04′00″N 9°21′32″W
Climbing type
Height15 metres at highest point
PitchesSingle pitch
Ratings
  • mostly D to VS
  • several above E1
Rock typeLimestone
Quantity of rock
  • +35 routes online database
  • 30 routes 2008 guidebook
Development
  • Roadside Parking
  • No Facilities
  • No Fresh Water
Cliff aspectWest
Elevationcirca 25 metres above sea level
OwnershipPrivate property
Camping
Classic climbs
  • Right Crack (VD).
  • Vulgarian (S).
  • Alcove Crack (HS).
  • Triumph Crack (HS).
  • Mannerless Monster (HS).
  • Slave Labour (E1 5b).
WebsiteClimbing.ie Ballyryan

Rock climbing
Ballyryan crag from the south

The Ballyryan rock climbing crag is located right beside the Ailladie Car Park on the R477 road, which is opposite the Stone Wall section of the Ailladie sea–cliff (see map below).[1] While Ballyran's first rock climbing routes date from the early 1970s (e.g. Whose Corner (VS 4c), and Whacky (HS) grade), it is noted that Irish "Tiglin" climbing groups conducted courses on many Ballyryan routes without recording their ascents.[1]

While most of Ballyryan's routes are circa 10–12 metres high and between Diff to HVS, its proximity to Ailladie, with its numerous severe climbs, has led to a number of E–grade climbs being put up in the crag, namely, Agony Aunt (E2 5c) and Crack 90 (E3 6a).[2] For various reasons, Ballyryan's rock climbing routes are sometimes described as being "difficult to protect" when "leading", and therefore an extra degree of caution is needed.[1] Novice climbers can "toprope" for safety.

Layout of Ailladie and Ballyryan (Ballyran is just south of the Ailladie car-park, labelled P in the map)

The cliff is named after the townland in which it is located, Ballyryan;[3] the term Ballyreen is also used locally.[1][4]

Climbing bibliography
  • Owens, Peter (2008). Climbs in the Burren and Aran Islands. Mountaineering Ireland. ISBN 0-902940-21-X.

See also
  • Ailladie, major rock climbing limestone sea–cliff in County Clare
  • Aill na Cronain, inland rock climbing limestone crag in County Clare, right beside the Aillwee Cave
  • Fair Head, major rock climbing dolerite mountain crag in County Antrim
  • Dalkey Quarry, major rock climbing granite quarry in Dublin

References
  1. "Ballyryan". Irish Climbing Wiki. 2018. This little crag is comprised of pillars, corners and chimneys and can be seen clearly from the road. Most of the routes were climbed by Tiglin groups before they were recorded. Access – From the car–park of Ailladie (Stone Wall area) walk south for a few hundred metres until the roadside crag swings sharply east and becomes a bit higher. Known locally as Ballyreen.
  2. "UKC Log: Bally Ryan, Co Clare, Ireland". UK Climbing Log. This little crag is comprised of pillars, corners, and chimneys and can be clearly seen from the coast road travelling down the Burren towards Doolin harbour. Access is easy and the walk is around 20–30 seconds. Some great bouldering up top and seems pretty undeveloped – worth a look if passing by.
  3. "Ballyryan Townland, Co. Clare". Townland.ie. 2018.
  4. "Search called off as body lost in Ballyreen is found in Salthill". Clare Champion. 26 January 2017. Drone technology had been deployed during the week in the search for the 22 year-old who was reported missing after he failed to return to his tour bus which had stopped at Ballyreen, on the Wild Atlantic Way, between Fanore and Lisdoonvarna, at the designated time of departure.
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