Delwara

The ancient Jain temples of Delwara, now in total ruins, are believed to have been built during the reign of Samrat Samprati (224-215 BC). He was grandson of Samrat Ashoka and son of Ashoka's blind son Kunal. Samprati became the Emperor of entire western and southern part of India (Maurya Empire) and ruled from Ujjain. It is said that Samprati, also known as ‘Jain Ashoka’, built thousands of Jain temples in India. It may be noted that all the ancient Jain monuments of Rajasthan and Gujarat, including the Jain temples at Delwara (Mewar), are also attributed to Samrat Samprati.

Grandeur of Jain temples

As on 2017, three main Jain temples remain in Delwara, for which good restoration work has been undertaken. Two of the temples are of Rishabhdev (ऋषभदेव भगवान) and one of Parshvnath (पार्श्वनाथ भगवान). Jain temples at Delwara were built with white marble stones. Despite being plain and austere on outside, the interiors of all these temples are covered with delicate carvings. Each has a walled courtyard called Rang Mandap. In the center of the courtyard is the shrine with the image of the deity, Rishabhdev and Parshvnath, respectively. Around the large courtyard, there are numerous small shrines, each housing a beautiful sculpture of the 24 Tirthankara (तीर्थंकर) with a series of elegantly carved pillars from the entrance to the courtyard. The special feature of these temples is its ceiling, which is circular in eleven richly carved concentric rings. The central ceiling of the temple is adorned with magnificent carving and it culminates into ornamented central pendant. The pendant of the domes tapers down forming a drop or point, like a lotus flower. This is an astonishing piece of work. It symbolizes the divine grace coming down to fulfill human aspirations. The figure of sixteen goddesses of knowledge, (विध्या देवी) are carved on the ceiling.

Adeshwar (Rishabhdev) Jain Temple at Delwara - entrance (2015)

Central dome with Vidhya Devies

Adeshwar (Rishabhdev) Jain Temple at Delwara

The Chauhan clan of Rajputs, ruled over a large area of South Western Rajasthan and Gujarat. Alhana, younger son of Wakpati Rao Chauhan, seized Nadol (near Jodhpur) from the Paramaras and established himself there toward the end of the 10^th century. His descendant, Kirtipal (Keytu) was driven from Nadol by Sultan Qutbud-din Aibak of Delhi, during the 12^th century. Kirtipal, then journeyed further to the south-west to Bhinmal and Sanchor, before seizing Jalore from the Paramaras. Some of his descendants were known as Sanchora Chauhans. Rao Kirtipal, the youngest son of Alhana, ruler of Nadol, is the founder of the Jalore line of Chauhans. He captured it from the Paramaras in 1181. Kirtipal was progenitor of Songara clan of Chauhans. He died in 1182 and was succeeded by his son Samar Singh.[4]

Chauhans have 24 major sects - Hada, Songara, Deora, Khichi, Shambhri, Sanchora, Pavia, Goyalwal, Bhadauria, Malani, Nirwan, Puravia, Madrecha, Cheeba, Mohil, Chahil, Balecha, Chachera, Boda, Nadola, Nikumbh,..etc. It is said that Rao Bisaldeo was the progenitor of the Deora clan. Prithviraj Chauhan III was nephew of Rao Bisaldeo. In ages past, the rulers of Jalore, Chandravati and Sirohi belonged to the Songara and Deora clans.

Extract from diary of Mathuranath Purohit

It is said that around 1172–80, King of Jalore, Rao Kirtipal (Keytu, a Songara Chauhan), captured Ahar (now Ayad), then capital of Mewar, from Rawal Samant Singh. In 1172, Rawal Samant Singh of Mewar was forced to move his capital from Ahar to Dungarpur. Samant Singh and his younger brother Kumar Singh ruled from Dungarpur.[5] However, Ahar and the adjoining area of Mewar, was ruled by Songara / Deora Chauhans for few years, till they were recovered by Rawal Kumar Singh. Interregnum, the brothers and cousins of Songara / Deora Chauhans were perhaps given the Jagirs in the Girva – the villages surrounded by Aravalli hills of the present-day Udaipur city. Jagirdars of Girva were called Raja. There is no historical record or manuscript of Mewar / Jalore state narrating that Rawal Samant Singh was dislodged by Keytu of Jalore. However, the extract of personal dairy written in 1939 by Mathuranath Purohit, Master of Ceremonies, Mewar, states,[6]

Keytu Chauhan, the King of Nadol snatched Ahar from Samant Singh, after defeating him in a battle. Samant Singh went to Vagad and established Dungarpur state. Later Rawal Kumar Singh, younger brother of Rawal Samant Singh, recaptured Ahar, the capital of Mewar.

[सामंत सिंह: इन्होने गुजरात के राजा अजयपाल को परास्त किया, इस युद्ध में इतने कमजोर हो गए कि नाडोल के केय्तु चौहान ने हमला कर आहड छीन लिया तब ये बागड़ में चले गए वहां डूंगरपुर का राज्य स्थापित किया.]

[कुमार सिंह: इन्होने अपने पिता का राज्य आहड़ पीछा लिया. यह सामंत सिंह के छोटे भाई थे.]

This fact is also established by the existence of an Ashapura temple on a hill top at village Berwas, between Ahar and Debari region of Udaipur. Also, according to local dialect the village of Debari, adjacent to Berwas, means Deora-ki-Bari, meaning ‘Window to Deora Kingdom’. However, according to Mewar's eminent historian and writer, Dr Shri Krishan Jugnu, “Debari means window to God’s kingdom (Dev-bari)”. There, is an inscription put up in 1975 during renovation of Ashapura Mata temple, “Temple of the Kul Deity (family idol) of Deora Chauhans was initially made by Raja Munjerao Deora of Girva in 1528” (during the times of Maharana Ratan Singh II, 1528–1531). To date the temple is managed by Deora Chauhans.

The Udaipur Girva too has number of villages which are inhabited by Deora Chauhans. There are many families of Deora Chauhans in Delwara, which is very close to Udaipur and on the periphery of Girva. It is therefore, quite possible that one Raja Sagar, fourth son of Rao Samant Singh of Jalore and a descendant of Rao Kirtipal, was bestowed the Jagir of Delwara during mid-13^th century. It is believed that later Maharana Udai Singh II (1540–1572), annexed these Jagirs from Deora Chauhans to move his capital from Chittor to Udaipur when he lost Chittor to Akbar in 1568.

Eminent historian, Rai Bahadur Gaurishankar Ojha writes,[7]

The information regarding genealogy of Deora Chauhans, available from the different books of ‘Bhaats’ (story tellers) and inscriptions, is full of contradictions and the names are at variance. There is a difference of opinion as well, among historians regarding genealogy of Songara and Deora Chauhans.

Bhanwarlal Nahata writes in ‘Bachhawat Muntha Vanshavli’,[8]

Chauhans have 24 sects and Deoras are one of them. Among Deora Songira gotra, first one is Sanwantsi (Samant Singh) Songira, who had 4 sons – 1 Kalhade (Kanhadeo), 2 Malde (Maldeo), 3 Salhe (Reningdeo) and 4 Sagarsi (Sagar). Sagar’s son Bohitya became sharvak (Jain disciple) by the blessings of Vardhman Suri Khartar.

Raja Sagar fought against Muslim invaders

During 12^th century, Rao Samant Singh of Jalore had four sons – Rao Kanhadeo, Maldeo, Raningdeo and Sagar. Rao Kanhadeo and his son Kunwar Viramdeo were killed in a battle against Alauddin Khalji in 1311, while Rao Maldeo and Rao Raningdeo ruled smaller Jagirs in Jalore.

Representative painting of Raja Sagar with his ministers at Delwara. Photo Rajput dynasties Google

It is believed that Rao Sagar was given the Jagir of Delwara, as the adjoining areas of Girva (Udaipur) were ruled by Deora Chauhans until 14-15^th century.[9]

There is another bard's tale that during 12^th century, Delwara was being ruled by a Rajput ruler Rao Bhim Singh. His only daughter was married to Rao Samant Singh of Jalore, who had two queens. Sagar was born to Delwara Baiji. Due to differences with the other queen over succession to the throne of Jalore, she returned to her father's place, Delwara. Since Rao Bhim Singh, did not have any male child, his grandson Sagar, a Deora Chauhan, ascended the throne of Delwara.[10]

Around middle of 13^th century, Raja Sagar, a Deora Chauhan and a descendant of Rao Kirtipal of Jalore was a very brave king of Delwara. He was the progenitor of Bothra Bachhawat clan. Raja Sagar was blessed with three sons - Bohitya, Gangadas and Jaisingh. Whenever there was invasion from Muslims, Rana Jaitra Singh (1213–53) called Raja Sagar for help in the battle. Raja Sagar always came along with army and fought valiantly against the invading Muslims.[11]

Battle of Bhutalghati

One of the fiercest battle Raja Sagar fought alongside Rana Jaitra Singh (1213–53) was against Sultan Shams-ud-din Iltutmish (1211–36) at Bhutalghati, near Nagda. While he ensured full protection for Jaitra Singh, as Delwada's army fought fearlessly alongside Mewar army. Sultan Iltutmish destroyed temples after temples in and around Nagda and Delwara. The villages were burnt.
Dr Shri Krishan Jugnu, writes in his book, Nandeshma Abhilekh (Hindi) – Rajasthan Ke Prachin Abhilekh[12]

This fierce battle was fought in the valley near Nagda towards Gogunda. Besides Gohils, there were brave soldiers from Chauhans, Chandanas, Solankis, Parmars, Chaarans and Tribals who fought for Mewar. They gave a tough fight to Sultan’s army. However, when Jaitra Singh was cornered, he was secretly sheltered in one of the houses in Nagda. Iltutmish was furious and encircled Nagda. Every house was searched, burnt and destroyed. In 14^th century, according to a mythological tradition of offering water tribute to the martyrs of Bhutalghati, a lake was built at Nagda and christened as BaaghelaTaalab.” There is another bard that says, Maharana Mokal built this lake in memory of his brother Baagh Singh.

Machind Jain temple (2015). Photo: Mahesh Sharma

Jain Temple at Machind (2015). Photo: Mahesh Sharma

Surya Temple at Nandeshma destroyed by Muslim invader Sultan Shams-ud-din-Iltutmish in 13th century. Photo: Mahesh Sharma

Raja Bohitya influenced by Jain philosophy

Raja Sagar's son Raja Bohitya was also brave and intelligent like his father and ruled Delwara during the time of Rawal Samar Singh (1273–1302) and Rana Ratan Singh (1302–1303). Once, apprehending danger to his life from the Muhammadans, Bohitya sought refuge in a Jain Temple at Delwara. It is believed that he was immensely influenced and inspired by Jain philosophy.[13]

One day while Bohitya was asleep in his palace, a snake climbed the bed and bit him on his legs. After biting, the snake hit the prince with his tail and descended from the bed. Prince got up with fright and asked for help. There was commotion in the palace and Raja Sagar came to know of it. The Raja asked the prince, “What happened?” The prince replied, “Snake has bitten me”. Raja tried to save him but in vain. People looked around for the snake but couldn't find one. The prince's leg became blue and body turned cold. Knowing that the prince was dead, they took him for the final journey of cremation. At that time the disciples (bhattarack) of Acharya Jindutt Suriji who were out for ‘Gochari’ (collecting food and alms) saw the funeral procession of the prince. They started discussing among themselves. One disciple said, “The prince is not dead. Why are they taking him for cremation?”[13]

The Mantri of Raja Sagar, who was passing by, heard the conversation and informed the King. Thus, the life of Prince Bohitya was saved and he was brought back to the palace. Since then Bohitya and his family developed deep faith in Jainism and started paying obeisance to Jain Acharyas and their disciples in Delwara. Bahrang Devi, wife of Raja Bohitya, was a beautiful and talented lady and lived in Delwara. She had eight sons - Shree Karan, Jaiso, Jaimal, Nanha, Bhima, Padam, Somji and Pushmal.

Raja Bohitya sacrificed his life in the battle at Chittorgarh, while fighting alongside Rana Ratan Singh I, against Allauddin Khilji in 1303. Sketch by Lalit C Sharma

According to Karamchandra Vanshavali Prabandh, written in 1593 by Jaysom,

After Rana Shree Karan's death in the battle, his wife Queen Ratna Devi along with her four sons - Samdhar, Udharam, Haridas and Veerdas, went to her parent's place (pihar) at Khedinagar (Kheda, Gujarat) for their education and proficiency in art of warfare. Samdhar, a Deora Chauhan, was the first man in his genealogy to convert to Jainism from the saint and scholar of Khartargachh, Shree Jineshwar Suri Maharaj. Thereafter his descendants became merged in the premier merchant community of Oswals and established matrimonial relation with Jain-Oswal community. He chose Bohotra (Bothra) as the name for his clan on the name of his grandfather Bohitya. Samdhar and all his brothers became the followers of Jainism and organised sangh yatra. Thus, he received the title of Sanghpati. Samdhar was blessed by a son named Tejpal.[11]

After the death of Bothra Samdhar, Tejpal Bothra became Sanghpati. He gifted gold, horses, elephants, etc. to the King of Gurjar – Patan (Anhilpur) and the King pleased with his friendship gifted him some part of his region to administer. He successfully ruled the people and helped the poor and needy by providing alms. Tejpal Bothra was blessed with a son -Vilha Bothra, from his wife Tara Devi Bothra.Later on, Tejpal Bothra took santhara (fast until death - left all food) and died. After his death, Vilha Bothra became Sanghpati. He was very rich but also very philanthropic. He gave generous donations, especially for Jain religion and honoured the sadhvis and shravaks. He had three sons - Kadua Bothra, Dharma Bothra and Nanda Bothra. After Vilha's death, his elder son Kadua Bothra became Sanghpati and went to Chittorgarh to settle down. Later his descendant, Bothra Bachhraj became Dewan of Jodhpur and founding Dewan of Bikaner. Bachhraj Bothra de[17]scendants were known as Bachhawats.[13]

Later, in 15th century, the Kingdom of Mewar was divided into 16 first grade thikanas or districts. Delwara was one of the 16 Rajwadas, along with Badi Sadri and Gogunda. Delwara has been ruled by Jhala Rajputs from 15^th Century onwards. The ancestor of the Jhala family was Raj Sahib Raidharji Vogohoji of Dhrangadhara (Halvad), son of Harpal Makwana. During the reign of Maharana Raimal (1473–1509), Ajoji (Ajja Singh Jhala) the deposed son of Raj Sahib Raidharji, along with his brother Sajoji (Sajja Singh Jhala) came to Mewar. Jhalas performed meritorious service in Mewar. Later the Maharana granted the Jagir of Delwara to Kunwar Sajja and that of Bari Sadri to Kunwar Ajja Singh and were granted the title of Raj Rana.

Ajja fought alongside Maharana Sangram Singh I (1509–1527) against Babur in 1527 at the Battle of Khanwa. When Maharana Sangram Singh (Rana Sanga) was wounded on the battlefield, Ajja donned the Maharana's tunic, which kept the Mewar army together but proved fatal for Raj Rana Ajja, who died in the battle. As many as 7 generations of the Jhala family had been sacrificing their lives for Maharanas of Mewar.[16]

Who ruled Delwara after Deora Chauhans left in 14^th century till Jhalas came in 15^th century? There is an inscription plate of 1975, that Ashapura Temple at Berwas (near Debari) was built by Raja Munjerao Deora of Girva in 1528. Who were the ancestors of Munjerao? Were they descendants of Raja Sagar? It is yet to be researched and established.

Genealogical Tree - Deora Chauhan Dynasty at Jaolore, Sirohi and Delwara in Rajasthan

Devi Garh Palace - This 18th century palace in the village of Delwara has undergone years of restoration and rebuilding. This all suite luxury hotel with 39 suites takes on the look of modern India, with an emphasis on design and detail, using local marble and semi-precious stones. The contemporary design showcased within this spectacular heritage property, complemented by personalized and intimate service, creates a new image of India for the 21st century.

Rishabhdev Jain Temple - This 700+ year-old white marble temple showcases 149 pillars and contains 52 individual shrines. This temple provides an outstanding example of the fine craftsmanship and architecture of its era. The inner chambers and columns are covered in exquisite marble carvings and stone work.

Parshwanath Jain Temple - This 900+ year-old temple's architecture and sculptures reveal the work of great artisans and craftsmen. A unique feature of the temple is a chamber about 5 meters underground, which houses 13 beautiful idols. Over the past few years, the Jain community has initiated a large scale project to restore this temple to its former state.

Sadhna Workshop - About 20 years ago, a patchwork program was initiated in Delwara by a local NGO, Seva Mandir, as an income generation activity to promote women’s empowerment. Today, this initiative has transformed into a self-owned enterprise involving more than 600 women from various villages. Of these, around 250 are from Delwara, which is where their main workshop is found. Open to the public, fair trade and high quality women’s clothing can be purchased here.

Hunting Tower - According to a book published by the Adeshvar Jain Temple, this hunting tower located on Kantya hill, locally known as Audhi, was built by King Jasvantsinh. It was used by the king for hunting during his rule.

Palera Talab - A large lake standing at the entrance to Delwara, which was built around 1875 AD. Two small domed pavilions ornamented the lake, adding to its charm. The name Palera Talab is derived from Sanskrit 'palankarta', which means ‘protector’ – an appropriate name given to the lake that is the town’s main water source.

Indra Kund - A beautiful step well that is a marvelous example of stone carvings and is about 15 meters deep.