Fashion activism

The mini skirt made its debut in 1964 and quickly became a bastion of youth culture and defiance.[4] Mary Quant, the London-based designer responsible for the skirt, sought to reflect an era that was “arrogant, aggressive, and sexy.”[5] Accordingly, the mini skirt was a popular choice for independent and progressive women in the 1960s. During the violent protests and events of May 1968 in France, the mini skirt became a symbol of female revolution and defiance. Andre Courrèges popularized the hemline in France. While the nostalgia of the 1970s saw a return to more conventional hemlines, the mini skirt persists as a symbol of women’s rights and sexual liberation to this day.

The slogan T-shirt has been favored by activists since its inception. Fueled by the DIY ethos of the punk era, Vivienne Westwood’s subversive t-shirt designs brought the slogan aesthetic into the mainstream in the 1970s. In 1979, designer Katharine Hamnett launched a label and line of shirts driven by the concept of ‘right livelihood;’ the shirt slogans were based on the central messages of Buddhism. The T-shirts were “designed to be seminal, to make people think, and then hopefully act,” Hamnett said in an interview.[6] In recent years, slogan tees have become a staple in popular culture, from runways to stadiums. British designer Daniel W. Fletcher organized an anti-Brexit sit-in with protesters wearing “stay” shirts and hoodies. Many prominent designers and labels such as Dior, Public School, Everlane, and Slow Factory have produced slogans supporting women’s rights, gay rights, immigrants, refugees, and conservation efforts.

The Keffiyeh is a traditional black and white scarf worn around the head or neck. According to design critic Hala Malak, the Keffiyeh dates back to pre-Islamic Sumer. High priests would wear turbans and fishing nets when praying for prosperous fishing seasons; the integration of these two textiles eventually led to the classic fishnet pattern the Keffiyeh is known for. Following the 1936 Arab Revolt, the Keffiyeh became a symbol of political uprising and rebellion. It was not until the rise of Arafat in the 1960s that the scarf came to symbolize Palestinian solidarity. The scarf has appeared among many leftist groups and anti-war organizations. The scarf was appropriated as a fashion accessory in a 2007 Balenciaga show. The Keffiyeh is a fashion staple in the west, although few are aware of its rich political history.[7] Today, the Kaflab Foundation works with artists and designers to explore and destigmatize Arab heritage and identity through the Keffiyeh.