Jakob Schubert

Jakob Schubert (born December 31, 1990) is an Austrian professional rock climber, sport climber and boulderer. He is a World Champion (2012, 2018) and World Cup winner (2011, 2014, 2018) in Lead climbing, and his highest redpointed grade on rock is 9b+.

Jakob Schubert
Jakob Schubert, Imst 2010
Personal information
NationalityAustria
Born (1990-12-31) December 31, 1990
Innsbruck
OccupationProfessional sport climber
Height173 cm (5 ft 8 in)
Weight63 kg (139 lb)
Websitehttps://www.jakob-schubert.com
Climbing career
Type of climberSport climbing
Highest grade
Known forThree times World Cup winner (2011, 2014, 2018) and twice World Champion (2012, 2018) in Lead climbing
First ascents9a (5.14d)
Medal record
World Cup
Winner2011Lead
Winner2011Combined
Winner2012Combined
Winner2013Combined
Winner2014Lead
2015Lead
2016Lead
2016Combined
Winner2018Lead
Winner2018Combined
World Championships
2005Youth Lead
2006Youth Lead
2007Youth Lead
2008Juniors Lead
2009Juniors Lead
2011Lead
2012Lead
2016Lead
2018Lead
2018Combined
2019Bouldering
2019Lead
European Championships
2010Lead
2013Bouldering
2017Lead
Updated on December 15, 2020.

Biography

He started climbing in 2003, when he was twelve years old. In 2004, he participated in the European Youth Cup and World Youth Championships. Since 2007, he regularly participates in the World Cup competitions for lead climbing. For seven world Cup seasons out of ten, from 2007 to 2016, he also competed in bouldering.

In 2011, he won the Lead World Cup and the silver medal at the Lead World Championships in Arco.[1] The World Cup was outstandingly obtained by winning seven consecutive competitions in that season. Previously, no climber was ever able to win as many World Cup competitions in a single season (in 2002, Alexandre Chabot had won six).[2]

In 2012, he won the Lead Climbing World Championships in Paris.[3]

In 2014, he won the World Cup for the second time.

In 2018, when he was 27 years old, he became World Champion again, in his own birthplace and home town, Innsbruck. He earned the title by reaching in the final event the same score as Adam Ondra (36+), but a higher score in the semifinal, where he ranked second after Domen Skofic. A few days later, in the same competition, he also conquered the Combined title by ranking second in Speed, first in Bouldering and second in Lead. In the same year, he was awarded his third World Cup.

Rankings
Jakob Schubert at the World Cup in Munich, 2012.

Climbing World Cup[4]
Discipline 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018
Lead 26 7 4 2 1 3 2 1 3 2 6 1
Bouldering 60 65 19 3 2 - 25 23 10 9
Speed - - - - - 43 59 - - - - 59
Combined - - 4 2 1 1 1 - 4 2 6 1

Climbing World Championships

Youth[5]

Discipline 2004
Youth B		 2005
Youth B		 2006
Youth A		 2007
Youth A		 2008
Juniors		 2009
Juniors
Lead 33 2 2 1 1 1

Adult[5]

Discipline 2009 2011 2012 2014 2016 2018 2019
Lead 26 2 1 5 2 1 3
Bouldering - - - - - 10 2
Speed - - - - - 110
Combined - - - - - 1

Climbing European Championships[5]
Discipline 2008 2010 2013 2015 2017
Lead 6 3 7 6 3
Bouldering - - 3 4 -
Speed - - 35 27 31

Number of medals in the Climbing European Youth Cup

Lead[5]
Season Category Gold Silver Bronze Total
2004Youth B11
2005Youth B11
2006Youth A3115
Total3137

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

Lead[5]
Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
200811
2009112
20101214
20117119
20121315
20132215
20142125
2015224
2016235
2017213
2018235
Total18171348

Bouldering[5]
Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
201111
2012112
20131113
201811
2019112
Total3249

Rock climbing

For the most up-to-date list of ascents visit Jakob Schubert's profile on theCrag.

Redpointed routes

9b+ (5.15c):

  • Perfecto Mundo - Margalef (ESP) - November 9, 2019 - Third ascent (first by Alexander Megos)

9b (5.15b):

  • Neanderthal - Santa Linya (ESP) - December 28, 2018 - Second ascent after Chris Sharma
  • El Bon Combat - Cova de I'Ocell (ESP) - December 1, 2018 - Second ascent after Chris Sharma
  • Stoking the Fire - Santa Linya (ESP) - January 5, 2018 - Third ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2013)
  • La Planta da Shiva - Villanueva del Rosario (ESP) - January 4, 2016 - Second ascent after Adam Ondra
  • Fight or flight - Oliana (ESP) - December 31, 2014 - Third ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2011)[6]

9a+ (5.15a)

  • Catxasa - Santa Linya (ESP) - January 9, 2018 - Second ascent after Chris Sharma
  • Seleccio Anal - Oliana (ESP) - January 8, 2017
  • Pachamama - Oliana (ESP) - January 2, 2017 - Third ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2009)
  • Joe Mama - Oliana (ESP) - December 27, 2016 - Second ascent after Chris Sharma
  • Kangroo Limb - Flatanger (NOR) - May 29, 2016 - Second ascent after Adam Ondra
  • Companion of Change - Zillertal (AUT) - November 18, 2015 - First ascent
  • Papichulo - Oliana (ESP) - April 27, 2011 - Sixth ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2008)[7]

9a (5.14d):

  • Kein Licht Kein Schatten - Ötztal (AUT) - November 8, 2016 - First ascent
  • Kraftplatzl - Berglsteiner See (AUT) - October 15, 2016 - Second Ascent after David Lama
  • Direct open your mind - Santa Linya (ESP) - January 3, 2013
  • Fuck the System - Santa Linya (ESP)- January 2, 2013[8]
  • Analogica Natural - Santa Linya (ESP) - January 2, 2013[8]
  • Seleccio Natural - Santa Linya (ESP) - December 28, 2012
  • Ciudad de Dios - Santa Linya (ESP) - December 24, 2012
  • Martin Krpan - Misja Pec (SVN) - November 21, 2011[9]
  • Hades - Nassereith, Götterwand (AUT) - May 30, 2010 - First ascent by Andreas Bindhammer, 2008[10]
  • Underground - Massone, Arco (ITA) - March 30, 2010 - First ascent by Manfred Stuffer, 1998

Onsighted routes

8c (5.14b):

Boulder problems
8C (V15)
  • Sierra Madre - Zillertal (AUT) - November 20, 2018
8B+ (V14)
  • Witness the fitness - Cova de Ocell (ESP) - January 13, 2019 - flashed [12]
  • Hide and Sick - Malatatal (AUT) - March 25, 2018

References
  1. planetmountain.com, ed. (November 28, 2011). "Puigblanque re di Spagna, insieme a Eiter, Kim e Markovic". Retrieved December 23, 2011.
  2. climbmagazine.com, ed. (October 22, 2011). "Record 7 World Cup wins". Retrieved April 15, 2012.
  3. Franz Schiassi (September 18, 2012). planetmountain.com (ed.). "Campionati del Mondo di arrampicata sportiva 2012, tutti i risultati da Parigi". Retrieved September 18, 2012.
  4. IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  5. IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "Schubert's profile and rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  6. planetmountain.com, ed. (January 2, 2015). "Jakob Schubert ripete Fight or Flight 9b a Oliana in Spagna". Retrieved February 19, 2015.
  7. planetmountain.com, ed. (April 28, 2011). "Jakob Schubert e Gabriele Moroni scatenati". Retrieved December 22, 2011.
  8. up-climbing.com, ed. (January 3, 2013). "Realizzazioni spagnole per Schubert e Midtboe". Retrieved January 5, 2013.
  9. up-climbing.com, ed. (November 27, 2011). "9a per Jakob Schubert". Archived from the original on 2011-12-26. Retrieved December 22, 2011.
  10. up-climbing.com, ed. (June 2, 2010). "Jakob Schubert - 9a". Retrieved December 22, 2011.
  11. up-climbing.com, ed. (April 25, 2011). "Jakob Schubert 8c onsight". Archived from the original on 2016-03-07. Retrieved December 22, 2011.
  12. "Jakob Schubert flashes 8B+ boulder Catalan Witness the Fitness". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 2019-03-29.
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