2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships

The 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, the 16th edition, were held in Hachioji, Japan from 11 to 21 August 2019. The championships consisted of lead, speed, bouldering, and combined events. The paraclimbing event was held separately this year from 16 to 17 July in Briançon, France.[1][2] The combined event also served as an Olympic qualifying event for the 2020 Summer Olympics.[3][4]

2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships
Entrance of the Esforta Arena in Hachioji
VenueEsforta Arena in Hachioji
Location Hachioji, Japan
Date11 – 21 August 2019
Competitors253 athletes from 39 nations
Websitehttps://jmsca-itadaki.com/s/n93w/

Qualification for the 2020 Summer Olympics
Main article: Sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics – Qualification

The seven best climbers of the combined event automatically qualify for the 2020 Summer Olympics, where sport climbing will make its debut. There are seven spots available per gender, with a maximum of two spots per country.[3][5]

The qualifiers for the 2020 Summer Olympics from the 2019 World Championships Combined events are:

2020 Summer Olympic qualification
Men Women

 Tomoa Narasaki (JPN)
 Jakob Schubert (AUT)
 Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ)
 Mickael Mawem (FRA)
 Alexander Megos (GER)
 Ludovico Fossali (ITA)
 Sean McColl (CAN)
 TBD (JPN)*

 Janja Garnbret (SLO)
 Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)
 Shauna Coxsey (GBR)
 Aleksandra Mirosław (POL)
 Petra Klingler (SUI)
 Brooke Raboutou (USA)
 Jessica Pilz (AUT)
 TBD (JPN)*

  •  Japan have qualified two quota places in each event, with the climbers still to be named.

Bouldering

Women
Rank Name Score[6]
1 Janja Garnbret 3T3z 8 8
2 Akiyo Noguchi 2T2z 4 2
3 Shauna Coxsey 2T2z 6 6
4 Ievgeniia Kazbekova 1T2z 3 4
5 Miho Nonaka 1T2z 5 6
6 Nanako Kura 0T0z 0 1

Men
Rank Name Score[7]
1 Tomoa Narasaki 2T4z 12 20
2 Jakob Schubert 0T3z 0 10
3 Yannick Flohé 0T3z 0 13
4 Kokoro Fujii 0T3z 0 18
5 Keita Dohi 0T2z 0 9
6 Adam Ondra 0T0z 0 0

Lead

Women
Rank Name Score[8]
1 Janja Garnbret 43+
2 Mia Krampl 39+
3 Ai Mori 38+
4 Seo Chae-hyun 38+
5 Akiyo Noguchi 38+
6 Jessica Pilz 35+
7 Vita Lukan 30+
8 Julia Chanourdie 30+

Men
Rank Name Score[9]
1 Adam Ondra 34+
2 Alex Megos 33+
3 Jakob Schubert 33+
4 Tomoa Narasaki 30
5 Sean McColl 30
6 Stefano Ghisolfi 29+
7 Kai Harada 28+
8 Hannes Puman 27+

Speed

Women

Aleksandra Miroslaw won the women's speed final against Di Niu. In the small final Anouck Jaubert (7.534) won against YiLing Song (9.768) and secured the third place.[10]

Round of 16 Quarter-finals Semi-finals Finals
            
 Aleksandra Mirosław (POL) 7.472
 MingWei Ni (CHN) 7.819
 Aleksandra Mirosław (POL) 7.337
 Patrycja Chudziak (POL) 8.008
 Patrycja Chudziak (POL) 8.114
 Elena Remizova (RUS) fall
 Aleksandra Mirosław (POL) 7.337
 YiLing Song (CHN) fall
 Yulia Kaplina (RUS) 8.465
 Aleksandra Kałucka (POL) 7.789
 Aleksandra Kałucka (POL) 7.605
 YiLing Song (CHN) 7.192
 YiLing Song (CHN) 7.436
 Anna Brożek (POL) 7.945
 Aleksandra Mirosław (POL) 7.129
 Di Niu (CHN) 8.363
 Mariia Krasavina (RUS) 7.454
 Andrea Rojas (ECU) 8.202
 Mariia Krasavina (RUS) 7.998
 Di Niu (CHN) 7.814
 Natalia Kałucka (POL) 7.895
 Di Niu (CHN) 7.871
 Di Niu (CHN) 7.525
 Anouck Jaubert (FRA) 7.535
 Anouck Jaubert (FRA) 8.409
 Aurelia Sarisson (FRA) 10.504
 Anouck Jaubert (FRA) 7.663
 Elizaveta Ivanova (RUS) 10.188
 Elizaveta Ivanova (RUS) 7.747
 PeiYang Tian (CHN) 8.080

Men

Ludovico Fossali won the men's speed final against Jan Kriz. In the small final Stanislav Kokorin (5.835) won against Danyil Boldyrev (5.934) and secured the third place.[11]

Round of 16 Quarter-finals Semi-finals Finals
            
 Dmitrii Timofeev (RUS) 6.150
 Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) 5.944
 Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) 5.808
 Kostiantyn Pavlenko (UKR) 5.863
 Sergey Rukin (RUS) fall
 Kostiantyn Pavlenko (UKR) 6.232
 Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) fall
 Jan Kriz (CZE) 5.986
 Reza Alipour (IRI) 6.281
 John Brosler (USA) 9.383
 Reza Alipour (IRI) 7.248
 Jan Kriz (CZE) 6.219
 Long Cao (CHN) 6.441
 Jan Kriz (CZE) 6.136
 Jan Kriz (CZE) fall
 Ludovico Fossali (ITA) 6.871
 Vladislav Deulin (RUS) 5.612
 QiXin Zhong (CHN) 5.580
 QiXin Zhong (CHN) FS
 Ludovico Fossali (ITA) WC
 Amir Maimuratov (KAZ) fall
 Ludovico Fossali (ITA) 5.908
 Ludovico Fossali (ITA) WC
 Danyil Boldyrev (UKR) FS
 Bassa Mawem (FRA) 7.470
 Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ) 7.013
 Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ) 7.613
 Danyil Boldyrev (UKR) 7.500
 Danyil Boldyrev (UKR) 5.940
 ZhiYong Ou (CHN) 6.072

WC - Wildcard
FS - False start

Combined

In combined competition, scoring is based on a multiplication formula, with points awarded by calculating the product of the three finishing ranks achieved in each discipline within the combined event. A competitor finishing with a first, a second and a sixth would thus be awarded 1 x 2 x 6 = 12 points, with the lowest scoring competitor winning.[12]

Women

[13]

Rank Name Points Speed Bouldering Lead
Rank Time Rank Score Rank Holds
1 Janja Garnbret 12.00 6 13.399 2 1T2z 1 2 1 Top
2 Akiyo Noguchi 21.00 7 10.082 1 2T2z 3 3 3 40+
3 Shauna Coxsey 42.00 2 9.225 3 1T2z 2 3 7 20
4 Aleksandra Mirosław 64.00 1 7.750 8 0T0z 0 0 8 10
5 Miho Nonaka 80.00 4 12.356 4 1T2z 3 4 5 23+
6 Ai Mori 80.00 8 12.860 5 1T2z 3 7 2 Top
7 Futaba Ito 120.00 5 8.655 6 0T2z 0 2 4 27
8 Petra Klingler 126.00 3 8.901 7 0T2z 0 3 6 23+

Men

[14]

Rank Name Points Speed Bouldering Lead
Rank Time Rank Score Rank Holds
1 Tomoa Narasaki 4.00 2 fall 1 3T3z 4 3 2 30
2 Jakob Schubert 35.00 7 7.208 5 0T3z 0 6 1 Top
3 Rishat Khaibullin 40.00 1 5.915 8 0T1z 0 2 5 22
4 Kai Harada 54.00 3 6.348 6 0T2z 0 6 3 30
5 Meichi Narasaki 60.00 5 6.689 2 1T3z 1 4 6 21
6 Kokoro Fujii 72.00 6 9.438 3 1T3z 2 6 4 29+
7 Mickael Mawem 112.00 4 6.716 4 1T2z 3 4 7 20
8 Alexander Megos 448.00 8 7.570 7 0T1z 0 1 8 0

See also

References
  1. "IFSC announce Paraclimbing World Championships 2019 will take place in Briançon, France". British Mountaineering Council. Archived from the original on Aug 11, 2019.
  2. "IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships - Briançon (FRA) 2019". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Archived from the original on Aug 11, 2019.
  3. "GB Climbing in Hachioji: first step to Tokyo 2020". British Mountaineering Council. Archived from the original on Aug 11, 2019.
  4. "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Archived from the original on Aug 11, 2019.
  5. "Top climbers seeking to use world championships in Hachioji as springboard to 2020 Games". The Japan Times. Archived from the original on Aug 11, 2019.
  6. "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result W O M E N bouldering". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 13, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.
  7. "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result M E N bouldering". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 13, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.
  8. "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result W O M E N lead". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 15, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.
  9. "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result M E N lead". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 15, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.
  10. "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result W O M E N Speed". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 17, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.
  11. "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result M E N Speed". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 17, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.
  12. "IFSC RULES 2019 VERSION No 1.9.2" (PDF). IFSC. Archived from the original (PDF) on Aug 21, 2019.
  13. "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result WOMEN combined". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 20, 2019. Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  14. "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result MEN combined". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 21, 2019. Retrieved August 20, 2019.
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