Papi Chulo's

Papi Chulo's is a restaurant in Portland, Oregon's Pearl District, in the United States. The taqueria was opened by restaurateur Ramzy Hattar in December 2019, with Antonio Javier Palma Caceres as chef and Davide Bricca overseeing cocktails. The trio had previously worked together at River Pig and Two Wrongs, two neighboring establishments also owned by Hattar. Papi Chulo's serves Mexican cuisine such as tacos, burritos, nachos, birria, margaritas, and micheladas. The business continued to operate delivery and takeout services during the COVID-19 pandemic, and in November 2020 confirmed plans to open a second restaurant in northeast Portland.

Papi Chulo's
Interior of Papi Chulo's in January 2021
Restaurant information
EstablishedDecember 7, 2019 (2019-12-07)
Owner(s)Ramzy Hattar
Head chefAntonio Javier Palma Caceres
Food typeMexican
Street address611 Northwest 13th Avenue
CityPortland
CountyMultnomah
StateOregon
CountryUnited States
Coordinates45.5275°N 122.6844°W / 45.5275; -122.6844
Websitepapichulospdx.com

Description

Papi Chulo's is a restaurant along 13th Avenue in northwest Portland's Pearl District.[1] Eater Portland's Brooke Jackson-Glidden described the original taqueria as "a colorful counter-service spot" with "design elements reminiscent" of similar establishments in California and Mexico.[2] The interior has a "open-format" kitchen with multiple paintings, including one the restaurant's name on the kitchen's hood and another of a bottle of Corona with a lime, as well as a mounted marlin above the ordering counter.[3] In 2020, prior to the COVID-19 pandemic, Willamette Week's Nick Zukin described the taqueria as "a popular late-night destination for hungry club and bar patrons".[4]

Serving a variety of regional Mexican cuisine, the restaurant has a menu with tacos (including Baja fish such as cod as well as Yucatecan cochinita pibil), burritos, nachos, birria with beef, lengua with habanero, margaritas on tap, and micheladas. Various ingredients include chile de árbol, cochinita pibil, consommé, queso blanco, salsa with guajillo chili, and "locally nixtamalized" tortillas made from Three Sisters masa.[2][3][5][6]

The pepper margarita has a syrup made on site and uses habaneros, poblanos, and three other types of peppers. The "Princesa" margarita has strawberry syrup and lime juice. The micheladas and Bloody Mary come with Tajín seasoning on the rim. Palomas are also featured on the drink menu.[3]

History

The restaurant's interior has strung lights and a mounted marlin

The restaurant opened on December 7, 2019,[7] in the space formerly occupied by PBJ's Grilled.[8] Local restauranteur Ramzy Hattar owns the taqueria, along with neighboring establishments River Pig and Two Wrongs. He had started developing a business plan for a taco restaurant after the chain Pink Taco reversed plans to open in Portland, and confirmed the launch of Papi Chulo's in July 2019.[8] The restaurant's opening was slightly delayed; in his September 2019 list of the city's most anticipated restaurant openings for the fall season, Eater Portland's Alex Frane said the taqueria was slated to open on October 23.[9] Hattar opened the restaurant with Antonio Javier Palma Caceres, who was raised in the Yucatán and had served as River Pig's chef,[6] as well as Davide Bricca, who oversaw cocktails for both River Pig and Two Wrongs.[3][8][10] Food from Papi Chulo's was being served at Two Wrongs by February 2020.[11]

Outdoor dining area during the COVID-19 pandemic

During the COVID-19 pandemic, Papi Chulo's, River Pig, and Two Wrongs served customers in decorated and heated covered tents. NW 13th Avenue was closed off to traffic at Hoyt Street, creating a street plaza for dining with permission from the Portland Bureau of Transportation.[1][12] Papi Chulo's also continued to operate delivery and takeout services,[5] opting to staff for deliveries rather than partner with a food delivery service (which Hattar deemed too expensive), as of May 2020.[13] Sourcing quality beef in 2020 was frustrating and challenging for Hattar, who had to find meat outside SP Provisions because of the pandemic's impact on the food industry and meat industry.[14]

Someone burglarized the restaurant in October 2020,[10][15] using a hand truck to remove a safe.[16]

Plans for a second Papi Chulo's in a new development in northeast Portland called Alberta Alley were confirmed in November 2020. The second restaurant will have a similar menu and limited indoor seating as well as a courtyard shared with neighboring establishments.[2]

Reception

The Oregonian's Michael Russell included Papi Chulo's in his March 2020 overview of "Portland's 40 best inexpensive restaurants" and said the birria tacos "are among the best lunch values you can find downtown".[17] In May, Eater Portland's Brooke Jackson-Glidden included Papi Chulo's in her overview of Portland's "knockout tacos" with delivery and takeout service during the COVID-19 pandemic.[18]

See also

References

  1. Romero, Morgan (October 27, 2020). "Portland restaurants winterizing outdoor dining". Portland, Oregon: KGW. Archived from the original on December 1, 2020. Retrieved December 6, 2020.
  2. Jackson-Glidden, Brooke (November 18, 2020). "Taqueria Papi Chulo's and Coffee Brand Deadstock Are Coming to a New Development on NE Alberta". Eater Portland. Vox Media. Archived from the original on November 23, 2020. Retrieved December 6, 2020.
  3. Jackson-Glidden, Brooke (December 7, 2019). "A New Portland Mexican Restaurant Brings Birria to the Pearl District". Eater Portland. Archived from the original on December 29, 2019. Retrieved December 6, 2020.
  4. Zukin, Nick (October 13, 2020). "The Birria Boom Has Reached Portland. Here's Where to Get It". Willamette Week. Archived from the original on November 30, 2020. Retrieved December 6, 2020.
  5. Garcia, Krista (November 30, 2020). "Where to Find Birria in Portland and Beyond". Eater Portland. Archived from the original on November 30, 2020. Retrieved December 6, 2020.
  6. Russell, Michael (January 8, 2020). "One of Portland's best ramen shops heads for the 'burbs, plus all the other big restaurant news for January 2020". The Oregonian. Advance Publications. ISSN 8750-1317. Archived from the original on January 13, 2020. Retrieved December 6, 2020.
  7. Jackson-Glidden, Brooke (December 23, 2019). "Beloved Japanese Bakery Oyatsupan Opens a Tiny Bakery Cafe in Tigard". Eater Portland. Archived from the original on September 4, 2020. Retrieved December 6, 2020.
  8. Jackson-Glidden, Brooke. "Tequila-Marinated Steak Tacos Are Coming to the Pearl District". Eater Portland. Archived from the original on November 10, 2020. Retrieved December 6, 2020.
  9. Frane, Alex (September 4, 2019). "Portland's Most Anticipated Restaurant Openings, Fall 2019". Eater Portland. Archived from the original on September 14, 2019. Retrieved December 6, 2020.
  10. Hendricks, John (October 23, 2020). "Thief uses hand truck to swipe safe from NW Portland restaurant". Portland, Oregon: KPTV. Archived from the original on November 3, 2020. Retrieved December 6, 2020.
  11. Frane, Alex. "Two Wrongs May Not Make a Right, but It Does Make Some Damn Good Cocktails". Willamette Week. Archived from the original on October 7, 2020. Retrieved December 6, 2020.
  12. Jackson-Glidden, Brooke (September 23, 2020). "With New Outdoor Plazas, Portland's Pearl District Plays Around With a Pedestrian-Centric NW 13th". Eater Portland. Archived from the original on October 4, 2020. Retrieved December 6, 2020.
  13. Mechanic, Allison (May 1, 2020). "Some restaurants struggle to stay open using third-party delivery services". Portland, Oregon: KATU. Archived from the original on May 6, 2020. Retrieved December 6, 2020.
  14. Pinsky, Rachel (May 19, 2020). "How the Crumbling Meat Supply Chain Has Affected the Portland Area Restaurant Market". Eater Portland. Archived from the original on June 26, 2020. Retrieved December 6, 2020.
  15. Frane, Alex (October 26, 2020). "Andina Is Reopening For Dine-In Service Today". Eater Portland. Archived from the original on November 1, 2020. Retrieved December 6, 2020.
  16. Jackson-Glidden, Brooke (October 29, 2020). "Downtown Chocolate Shop Cacao Will Permanently Close". Eater Portland. Archived from the original on November 15, 2020. Retrieved December 6, 2020.
  17. Russell, Michael (March 11, 2020). "Portland's 40 best inexpensive restaurants". The Oregonian. Archived from the original on October 17, 2020. Retrieved December 6, 2020.
  18. Jackson-Glidden, Brooke (May 5, 2020). "Where to Find Knockout Tacos for Takeout and Delivery in Portland". Eater Portland. Archived from the original on May 30, 2020. Retrieved December 6, 2020.
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