Smoky Cape Lighthouse

The South West Rocks area was well known for many years because of its prominent coastal geography. A journal entry recorded on Sunday May 13, 1770 by Captain James Cook describes a point "or a head land, on which we saw fires that produced a great quantity of smoke, bore W. distant four leagues. To this point, I gave the name of Smoky Cape; it is of a considerable height, and over the pitch of the Point, is a round hillock; within it are two others, much higher and larger and within them the land is very low". Earliest European contact was not until 1816, when the brig, Trial, hijacked by convicts was wrecked at Trial Bay. Subsequently, explorer John Oxley visited the area in 1817. Trial Bay was noted early as a valuable haven for passing ships during southerly gales because of its northerly aspect and position midway between Sydney and Brisbane. Shipping was the primary mode of trade and transport for the eastern seaboard communities.[6]

More than twenty wrecks have occurred in the area of the headland, several of them with losses of life. Three men died when the ketch Woolloomooloo was wrecked in Trial Bay in 1864 and nine died in the wreck of the brig Annie Ogle in 1875. A number of ships have been wrecked in the Bay area with more lost around the headland and immediate coastline. The first action to establish a light at Smoky Cape was taken by Alexander Kethel, member for West Sydney in the New South Wales Legislative Assembly, who in 1886 passed a resolution stating that, for the benefit of the increasing coast trade and navigation it was necessary to erect a lighthouse at Smoky Cape.[6]

A sum of 18,000 pounds was set aside for the construction of the complex. The Colonial Architect, James Barnet, who played an important role in the design and construction of lights at South Solitary Island, Montague Island and Green Cape, selected the site and prepared the necessary documentation. During the design stage major changes in organisation occurred. James Barnet was dismissed in 1890 and the office of the Colonial Architect was replaced with that of Government Architect. The project was then handed to C. W. Darley, Engineer-in-Chief for Harbours and Rivers. Barnets original design was however used for the Lighthouse.[6]

Tenders for the work were called in January 1889 and the offer from Messrs. Oakes and Company was successful. The contract called for the construction of the tower and annex, the head keeper's residence and semi detached assistant keepers cottages, a coach house and stables. All were to be erected on an 81 acres reserve, 128 metres above sea level. By 1889 construction was well underway and a notice was given to mariner's informing them of the construction of the lighthouse with full particulars coming at a later date. It was reported the contractor, a Mr Oakes died during the construction of the complex, however it was completed by his heirs within budget.[6]

The light was first exhibited on the 15 April 1891. The official ceremony, attended by Darley and members of the Marine Board, taking place on the 29 April 1891. In 1912 the original light source was replaced and in 1962 was changed again to an electric lamp and new thrust bearing pedestal system.[6]

As a result of the Commonwealth Lighthouses Act of 1911, management of the lighthouse was transferred in 1915 to Federal control because of its status as a coastal light.[4]

Since 1939, the lighthouse has been an Australian Bureau of Meteorology site for the gathering of climate statistics.[7]

During the World War 2, the lighthouse precinct was used for military purposes. There was a searchlight battery and light gun emplacement, and possibly a radio room, operating there at that time. The concrete remains of the military installation are still visible.[5]

In 1962 the light was electrified and around 1988 it was automated. The optic system is still the original first order Fresnel lens.[4][8]

On May 14, 1998, Smoky Cape was the first NSW Parks and Wildlife Service lighthouse to be opened for tours.[9]

Lighthouse plans, 1888

Keepers' quarters plans, 1888

Plan of site, 1888

The lighthouse's design is unusual for its octagonal tower, and was so designed because it was easier to cast the tower in the octagonal formwork than round formwork.[4] It has a single-story pavilion entrance, cast-iron staircase and distinctive gunmetal balustrade.[10] It is one of only three nineteenth century mass concrete lighthouses in NSW (the others being South Solitary Island Lighthouse and Green Cape Lighthouse).[5] The fact that it has its original Chance Brothers revolving apparatus and lens, and lantern house, makes it an important example of late nineteenth century industrial maritime technology.[5]

The lighthouse is operated by the Australian Maritime Safety Authority and is classified by the National Trust of Australia (NSW).

Its nearest lighthouses are South Solitary Island Lighthouse north of Coffs Harbour, to the north, and Tacking Point Lighthouse at Port Macquarie, to the south.

The lighthouse complex is located in Hat Head National Park. The head keeper's cottage is now run as a bed and breakfast,[8] and two other cottages as holiday houses, leased from the NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service.

The cape is a popular point for whale-watching.

Smoky Cape Lightstation and its setting are highly significant as one of a collection of lighthouses which combine the natural values of a rugged coastal environment with the cultural values of a prominent landmark. Built as an isolated outpost of European settlement it demonstrates the development of coastal shipping in the late 19th century. The light tower retains its original function today using recent technology to allow for automated operation. It is a notable work of NSW Colonial Architect James Barnet which retains components of 19th-century lighthouse technologies. This site retains evidence of cultural values, both Aboriginal and European which demonstrates the changing uses of the site, against a constant of natural values.[6]

Smoky Cape Lighthouse was listed on the New South Wales State Heritage Register on 2 April 1999 having satisfied the following criteria:[6]

The place is important in demonstrating the course, or pattern, of cultural or natural history in New South Wales.

Smoky Cape was named by Captain Cook in 1770 for the large number of fires observed along the range. The Lighthouse precinct and Trial Bay Goal together provide a fine example of Colonial architecture and planning and of Colonial government settlement in the area. World War 2 radar installations and ruins show the more recent use of the area for defence purposes. James Barnet designed a series of lighthouse towers in NSW which are reported as being the most architecturally sophisticated in Australia. Smoky Cape retains the distinctive bracketed capital and gunmetal balcony balustrade characteristic to Barnet's design. The pavilion entrance is also a feature reintroduced by Barnet and in evidence at Smoky Cape. The cast-iron stair is also a good example of its type.[6]

The place is important in demonstrating aesthetic characteristics and/or a high degree of creative or technical achievement in New South Wales.

Smoky Cape is an outstanding and relatively intact example of a late Victorian Lightstation unique in NSW for the use of in-situ mass concrete in the construction of its main buildings. The lighthouse is a fine example constructed in an unusual hexagonal shape with a rare first order Chance Bros. rotating optic. The residences display the robust design typical of Barnet's work, planned to embody the hierarchy of the keepers. Each has a view to the tower. The design is more elaborate than its contemporaries in other States. The natural setting provides a picturesque landscape quality with a sense of isolation accentuated by the siting, with no other man-made elements visible from most of the headland or beaches.[6]

The place has a strong or special association with a particular community or cultural group in New South Wales for social, cultural or spiritual reasons.

The Smoky Range is significant to the Aboriginal populations with a number of mythological associations. In addition, the lightstation and its setting have significance to Europeans as a remote outpost continuously occupied for over 100 years and closely associated with the maritime history of the area. It is a place that attracts many visitors to admire its character, setting and history. It is highly regarded by local and regional populations of the area as one of the oldest and substantially intact building complexes surviving from the Colonial era. The location offers scope for the interpretation of coastal processes in conjunction with cultural values.[6]

The place has potential to yield information that will contribute to an understanding of the cultural or natural history of New South Wales.

Smoky Cape is part of a cohesive group of late 19th- and early 20th-century lightstations in NSW each of which demonstrates the incremental changes in the design and construction of the various complexes. The tower and houses are constructed of mass concrete using aggregate of locally quarried granite and cement rendered both internally and externally. The use of concrete in Australian lighthouses was relatively widespread. In NSW, however, Green Cape and Smoky Cape lighthouses are the only known in-situ concrete towers and both are relatively early uses of concrete. Throughout Australia Smoky Cape is one of approximately 10 in-situ concrete towers constructed prior to 1920. The optic, cast-iron and copper lantern house are examples of the late 19th-century industrial technology. The optic is rare due to its detailed configuration consisting of triple panels which provide the triple group flash. One of numerous 12' diameter Chance lanterns, it is one of only four known to have both a trapezoidal glazing pattern and Trinity type vent.[6]

The place possesses uncommon, rare or endangered aspects of the cultural or natural history of New South Wales.

Early use of mass concrete, together with unusual technology in lantern and lens.[6]

The place is important in demonstrating the principal characteristics of a class of cultural or natural places/environments in New South Wales.

Representative of the work of James Barnet, NSW Colonial Architect.[6]

• List of lighthouses and lightvessels in Australia