White Mosque, Ramla

The White Mosque (Hebrew: המסגד הלבן, romanized: haMisgad haLavan, Arabic: المسجد الأبيض, romanized: a-Masjid al-Abyad) is an ancient Ummayad mosque in the city of Ramla, Israel. Only the minaret is still standing. According to local Islamic tradition, the northwest section of the mosque contained the shrine of a famous Islamic Prophet, Nabi Salih.[3]

White Mosque
המסגד הלבן
المسجد الأبيض
The minaret of the White Mosque
Religion
AffiliationIslam
DistrictOld City
ProvinceCentral District
Location
Location Ramla, Israel
Shown within Israel
Geographic coordinates31°55′39.21″N 34°51′57.67″E
Architecture
Architect(s)Umar ibn Abd al-Aziz
TypeMosque
StyleUmayyad, Mamluk
Completed717 (enclosure); rebuilt by 1047; 2nd phase 1190; 3rd phase 1268 (minaret); rebuilding 1318, 1408[1][2]
Specifications
Dome(s)1
Minaret(s)1
Minaret height27 meters (89 ft)

The minaret is also known as the Tower of the Forty Martyrs.[4][5] Muslim tradition dating back to 1467 claims that forty of the prophet Muhammad's companions were buried in the mosque, which influenced an erroneous[2] Western Christian tradition from the 16th century that the White Mosque was originally a church dedicated to the Forty Martyrs of Sebaste.[6][7]

History

First phase

The mosque was built by the governor and future caliph Sulayman ibn Abd al-Malik in 715–717,[8] but was completed by his successor Umar II by 720.[2] The mosque itself was constructed of marble, while its courtyard was made of other local stone.[9] Some two-and-a-half centuries later, Al-Muqaddasi (c. 945/46-991) described it as follows:

“The chief mosque of al-Ramla is in the market, and it is even more beautiful and graceful than that of Damascus (Umayyad Mosque). It is called al-Abyad the White Mosque. In all Islam there is found no finer mihrab (prayer niche) than the one here, and its pulpit is the most splendid to be seen after that of Jerusalem; also it possesses a beautiful minaret, built by the caliph Hisham ibn Abd al-Malik. I have heard my uncle relate that when this caliph was about to build the minaret, it was reported to him that the Christians possessed columns of marble, at this time lying buried beneath the sand, which they had prepared for the Church of Bali'ah (Abu Ghosh). Thereupon the caliph Hisham informed the Christians that either they must show him where these columns lay, or that he would demolish their church at Lydda (Church of Saint George), and employ its columns for the building of his mosque. So the Christians pointed out where they had buried their columns. They are very thick, and tall, and beautiful. The covered portion (or main building) of the mosque is flagged with marble, and the court with other stone, all carefully laid together. The gates of the main-building are made of cypress-wood and cedar, carved in the inner parts, and very beautiful in appearance.”[10]

Reconstructions

The White Mosque from the east, early 20th century

An earthquake in January 1034 destroyed the mosque, "leaving it in a heap of ruins", along with a third of the city. In 1047, Nasir Khusraw reported that the mosque had been rebuilt.[2]

After the initial construction, Ṣalāḥ ad-Dīn Yūsuf ibn Ayyūb (Saladin) ordered in 1190 one of his outstanding architects, Ilyas Ibn Abd Allah, to supervise what is considered the second construction phase of the mosque. Ilyas built the mosque's western side and the western enclosure wall, together with the central ablutions building.[1]

The third phase, in 1267–1268, began after the final demise of the Crusader Kingdom of Jerusalem. On the orders of the Mamluk sultan al-Zahir Baybars, the mosque was rededicated and modified by adding the minaret, the dome, a new pulpit and prayer niche, a portico east of the minaret, and two halls outside the enclosure.[3][2][1] Mamluk sultan Muhammad al-Nasir Ibn Qalawun renovated the minaret after an earthquake in October 1318.[1] The Mamluks commissioned restoration works in 1408.[11]

Architecture

Outline and prayer hall

The White Mosque compound is rectangular, 93 by 84 meters (305 ft × 276 ft), and oriented to the cardinal points.[11] A large, open courtyard is surrounded by built structures and walls.[11]

The 12 meters (39 ft) wide prayer hall stands along the southern wall, with twelve openings northwards to the courtyard.[11] Its ceiling consists of cross-vaults supported by a central row of pillars.[11] The ceiling and the western part of the prayer hall are 12th-century additions made by Saladin, who also had a new mihrab (prayer niche) built.[11]

Much of the mosque was built in white marble with cypress and cedar wood used for the doors. Of its four facades, the eastern one is in disrepair.[3]

Minaret (the "White Tower")

The White Tower after January rains

The current, Mamluk-built minaret stands on the northern side of the mosque compound, is square in shape and five stories high, each adorned with window niches, and has a balcony towards the top. The minaret was probably influenced by Crusader design, but it was built by the Mamluks.[3] 27 meters (89 ft) tall,[8] It is accessed via a staircase with 125 steps and contains small rooms, which could be used for resting or as study rooms.[1]

Al-Muqaddasi mentions a minaret in the 10th century.[10] There is speculation about a minaret predating the Mamluk one that may have been located closer to the center of the mosque, as remnants of a square foundation have been found there. However, this may have been just a fountain.[3]

Courtyard and cisterns

Below the central courtyard of the mosque there are three large and well-preserved underground cisterns with barrel-vaults carried by pillars.[1] Two cisterns (the southern and western ones) were filled by an underground water duct probably connected to the aqueduct built simultaneously with the mosque and city and bringing spring water (probably from the vicinity of Gezer to the east).[1][12] The third, eastern cistern was supplied by runoff rainwater.[1] The reservoirs provided water for the worshipers at the mosque and filled the pool for ablutions at the center of the courtyard, of which only the foundation remains today.[11]

Archaeological excavations

Excavations conducted in 1949 on behalf of the Ministry of Religious Affairs and Israel Department of Antiquities and Museums revealed that the mosque enclosure was built in the form of a quadrangle and included the mosque itself; two porticoes along the quadrangle's east and west walls; the north wall; the minaret; an unidentified building in the center to the area; and three subterranean cisterns. The mosque was a broadhouse, with a qibla facing Mecca. Two inscriptions were found that mention repairs to the mosque. The first relates that Sultan Baybars built a dome over the minaret and added a door. The second inscription states that in 1408 Seif ed-Din Baighut ez-Zahiri had the walls of the southern cistern coated with plaster.[13]

References

  1. Haifa University Excavation in Marcus Street Ramala; Reports and studies of the recanati Institute for maritime studies Excavations, Haifa 2007
  2. Pringle, 1993, pp. p.182-185
  3. Al-Abyad Mosque Archnet Digital Library. Archived 2013-09-18 at the Wayback Machine
  4. Alphonse Marie L. de Prat de Lamartine (1835). A Pilgrimage to the Holy Land. A. Waldie. p. 166.
  5. François-René vicomte de Chateaubriand (1814). Travels in Greece, Palestine, Egypt, and Barbary, During the Years 1806 and 1807. Van Winkle and Wiley. pp. 242.
  6. George Robinson (1837). Travels in Palestine and Syria: In Two Volumes. Palestine. Colburn. p. 30.
  7. Katia Cytryn-Silverman (2010). "The Mamluk Minarets of Ramla". Bulletin du Centre de recherche français à Jérusalem. 21.
  8. White Mosque Encyclopædia Britannica. Encyclopædia Britannica Online. 26 Dec. 2008.
  9. al-Muqaddasi quoted in Le Strange, 1890, p.305.
  10. al-Muqaddasi quoted in Le Strange, 1890, p.304.
  11. "Ramla: Arab Capital of the Province of Palestine". Israel Ministry of Foreign Affairs. 17 November 1999. Retrieved 23 August 2020.
  12. Gorzalczany, Amir (2011). "The Umayyad Aqueduct to Ramla and Other Finds near Kibbutz Na'an". 'Atiqot. Jerusalem: Israel Antiquities Authority (IAA) (68): 193–219 (207, 211). ISBN 978-965-406-281-7. Retrieved 23 August 2020.
  13. White Mosque in Ramle, UNESCO "Tentative Lists" for World Heritage sites, submitted 30/06/2000. Accessed August 2020.

Bibliography

Further reading

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