Architecture of Melbourne

Melbourne was first settled by Europeans in 1835, when rival entrepreneurs from Tasmania, John Batman and John Pascoe Fawkner sent expeditions looking for sheep pasture. Batman famously stated that “This is the place for a village”, generally believed to refer to the point on the Yarra River where freshwater was found (near today’s Queensbridge).[3] The land to the north of the Yarra was a gentle valley between hills to the east and west, and riding ground to the north. In 1837, government surveyor Robert Hoddle laid out a grid of streets, approximately 30 metres wide (considerably wider than Sydney streets) between the two hills and aligned with the river.[4] Until the 1850s, the settlement of Melbourne grew at a moderate but steady pace.

Boom era (1850s–1890s)

Following this early settlement period, just after the state of Victoria was separated from NSW in 1851, gold was discovered, and thousands of people flocked to the city from the United Kingdom, as well as Europe and the United States, to seek their fortune on the Victorian goldfields. As a result of the Gold Rush, Melbourne's population grew from 4,000 in 1837 to 300,000 in 1854.[5] Approximately £100 million worth of gold was discovered in the Victorian fields in the 1850s.[5] Thanks to the immense wealth generated, many large public buildings were built or begun including the State Library, Parliament House, the Town Hall, and the General Post Office. The gold rush was followed by a growth in pastoral wealth, the development of local industries, railways, suburbs, shops, and ports, a growth that so astonished visiting journalist George Augustus Sala in 1885 that he dubbed the city "Marvellous Melbourne".[6][7][8]

The 1880s saw the price of land start to boom, and London banks were eager to extend loans to men of vision who capitalised on this by speculation, and grand, elaborate offices, hotel and department stores in the city, and endless suburban subdivisions. During this period, The Craig, Williamson and Thomas store (1883), the Prell's Buildings (1889), the Menzies Hotel (1867), the Fink's Building (1888), the Federal Coffee Palace (1883), the Broken Hill Chambers (1880), head office of Broken Hill Proprietary (BHP)[9] and the Equitable / Colonial Mutual Life Building (1893) were built (all demolished 1960s-70s).[5]

The Queen Anne style APA Building, built in 1889, was one of the world's tallest buildings in the 1890s and the tallest in the Southern Hemisphere. It was demolished in 1981.[10]

The concept for the Prell's Building was devised when Friedrich Wilhelm Prell was commissioned to construct buildings in Melbourne. Prell was born in Hamburg, Germany and migrated to Australia at the age of 21.[11][12] He founded the firm of F.W. Prell and Company Limited, an import/export business. In 1886, the vice-president of the American Otis Elevator Company, W.F. Hall, visited Melbourne. In conversation with Prell, Hall noticed that Sydney had six Otis elevator lifts in operation in public buildings, however Melbourne had none. He remarked that men who had to climb stairs in Melbourne's offices would do so with great difficulty, reaching the top floor with "aching legs, a fluttering heart, and a firm resolution to do business elsewhere".[11] Prell added two more storeys to his building, as well as Victoria's first passenger elevators. Between 1888 and 1889, three 11-storey buildings were constructed in Queens and Collins Streets. The buildings, known as Prell's buildings, dominated the southern section of the city with their Modern Renaissance style, and were known as "Towers of Babel of the elevator type. The buildings were constructed in brick or stone with ornamented cornices. The building was generally used for commercial offices. The Prell's buildings were demolished in 1975, for "no sound reason".[11]

The Craig, Williamson and Thomas buildings were department stores that sold goods including robes, silks and satins, until a fire broke out on 22 November 1897 and destroyed much of the building's interior, creating a damage bill of £1,500,000 and a stock loss of £100,000.[13] The facade was preserved, and extended, before the building was sold in 1946, after ten years on the market. The Commonwealth Bank opened a branch at the site, before demolishing what had once been the largest retailer in Australia in 1969.[13] The Menzies Hotel, constructed in 1867 in Second Empire style, was host to prominent figures such as Alexander Graham Bell, Herbert Hoover and Dame Nellie Melba.[14] It was one of Melbourne's first grand hotels and was built on land purchased by Archibald and Catherine Menzies.[15] Like the Craig, Williamson and Thomas building, it too was demolished in 1969, to make way for the BHP Plaza. The Equitable Life Assurance Society of America headquarters (later Colonial Mutual Life) on the north west corner of Collins and Elizabeth Streets was designed to be "the grandest building in the Southern Hemisphere and to last forever".[16] Designed by German-born American architect Edward Raht, the design drew on the Romanesque Revival popular in the US in the 1880s, and was built of solid granite blocks; the building cost was estimated at £233,000.[16] It was one of the taller buildings in Melbourne at the time, at 7 storeys and 138 feet.[16] The National Trust, who sided with public opinion that the building was "outdated, ostentatious and gloomy", deemed it ineligible for protection and it was subsequently demolished in 1960.[16]

19th-century grand hotel the Federal Coffee Palace, located on the corner of Collins and King Street, was demolished in 1971.

The boom led to the construction of numerous ‘skyscrapers’ 7-10 storeys, and the 12 storey Australian Building, also known as the APA Building, was briefly amongst the tallest buildings in the world.[17] Located on Elizabeth Street, on the corner of Flinders Lane, it reached 164 feet.[18] It was envisioned by F.T. Durham, Post Master General and director of the biscuit company Swallow and Ariell. The APA Building was constructed between 1888–89 in the Queen Anne architectural style, with a gabled roofline, pinnacles and decorative masonry. It was built in red brick with stone bands, with shops on the ground floor and offices above. Hydraulic lifts were added to the building and opened by the premier, Alfred Deakin. As the building neared completion, Melbourne's land boom was dissipating and the city entered an economic depression. Office space became considerably difficult to lease. Durham's assets were purchased greater than their market value by the Munro's Real Estate Bank, which helped secure his company. The top floor and pinnacles were removed in the 1950s. The building itself was demolished in 1981, with a permit from Heritage Victoria, because they agreed that the bill to upgrade it to modern fire regulations was too onerous.[17]

The Federal Coffee Palace, a Second Empire style building on Collins Street, was constructed in 1888. At the time of opening, an article in The Age declared it as one of "Australia's most splendid" buildings. It was commissioned by politicians and property developers James munro and James Mirams. The exterior was designed by Ellerker and Killburn, and the interior by William Pitt in a joint venture. At a cost of £150,000, the building became one of Melbourne's grand ornamented hotels. A preference for modern American hotels saw the death of old world establishments like the Federal Hotel and it was demolished in the early 1970s.[19] A similar fate was met by other grand buildings of this era, such as the 10-storey Fink's Building (1888–1967), Scott's Hotel (1912–1962), Victoria Building and Queens Walk Arcade (1888–1960s), APA Tower (1888–1967), the Fish Markets (1892–1959) and the Tivoli Opera House (1901–1969).[20]

The Royal Exhibition Building (1879), a UNESCO World Heritage Site.[21]

One of the two remaining 19th century 'skyscrapers' in Melbourne is the former National Mutual Life Association Building on the south west corner of Collins and Queen Streets, with nine floors, built in 1892 (and extended in 1903 by Best Overend & Partners). The building has been known under different names, including A.C. Goode House, and most recently as the Bank of New Zealand Australia (BNZA). It is a brick structure with a heavily modelled freestone exterior in the Gothic Revival style,[22] featuring Gothic pointed arches, topped by spires at its roof.[23] It was designed by the Adelaide firm Wright, Reed and Beaver.[22][24][25] The Heritage Victoria citation notes the "aesthetic and architectural importance as a fine example of a Federation Gothic style building. The exterior facade contains many features distinctive to the style such as exuberant modelling, a turret, parapeted gables and masonry mullions. It has interiors to match, with features such as exotic dados of grey marble, red marble pilasters and columns, and white marble stairs in the foyer. The interior also features an elaborate banking chamber with a fully ornamented ceiling".[25]

A number of other buildings constructed during Melbourne's landboom still stand today, including the Royal Exhibition Building constructed for the 1880 International Exhibition, William Wardell's Gothic Bank (1883), the Hotel Windsor (1884), William Pitt's Venetian Gothic style Old Stock Exchange (1888) and Twentyman & Askew's Stalbridge Chambers (1890).[26][27]

Flinders Street station (1909)

The turn of the century in Melbourne marked the federation of Australia in 1901. The 1880s landboom had been followed by an equally large crash, the collapse of building societies and some banks, and an almost complete halt in construction by 1893. Sydney fared somewhat better, grew faster, and overtook Melbourne in size and population by 1901.[28][29] Melbourne remained important thanks to its status as Australia's (interim) capital city, the home of the Commonwealth of Australia. The Victorian Parliament House on Spring Street was handed over to house the parliament of Australia, while the Victorian parliament moved to the Exhibition Buildings. Economic revival in the 1900s saw a resurgence of construction. In this period, architects began to look less to England for inspiration, and more to the United States, particularly the Romanesque Revival.[30]

A major landmark of this period was built when it was finally decided to replace the ad-hoc collection of train sheds Flinders Street Station with a grand terminus. A competition was held in 1899, with 17 entries received.[31] The competition was essentially for the detailed design of the station building, since the location of the concourse, entrances, the track and platform layout, the type of platform roofing and even the room layout to some extent was already decided.[32] The first prize, at £500, went to railway employees James Fawcett and HPC Ashworth of Fawcett and Ashworth in 1899. Their design, titled Green Light, was of French Renaissance style and included a large dome and tall clock tower.[31] The train shed over the platforms was intended to have many arched roofs running north-south, but this was never built. Over the next few years, the design was altered with an additional floor, and work on the station building itself began in 1905. Ballarat builder Peter Rodger was awarded the £93,000 contract and the station was originally to be clad in stone, but this exceeded the allocated budget.[31] Red brick with cement render was chosen for the Edwardian style building. Work on the dome began the following year, and delayed construction saw a Royal Commission appointed in May 1910. The Way and Works Branch of the Victorian Railways took over the project, the station being essentially finished by mid-1909. The verandah along Flinders Street and the concourse roof and verandah along Swanston Street were not completed until after the official opening in 1910.[33] The building has been repainted five times in its history, and the last repaint occurred in 2017. The most recent paint job was conducted to match the original colours as closely as possible, obtained through numerous samples of chipped paint which revealed the original colours after being cut in a polyester resin tube.[34]

The art deco Manchester Unity Building (1927)

The styles of the early 20th century included Federation architecture and the rise of art deco. The rise of the suburbs in Melbourne meant that large acres of land could be purchased and homes could be designed in appointed styles of the land owners and home builders. One of the most popular styles was art deco, and several public city buildings were designed in this style, including the Manchester Unity Building, which mixed art deco with Gothic Revival. The building was constructed in 1932 by the Manchester Unity I.O.O.F. in Victoria.[35] Other buildings in the art deco style include the Myer Emporium (1920), T & G Building (1929), the Australasian Catholic Assurance Building (1935) and Mitchell House (1937)–which more closely resembles the Streamline Moderne style.[36] These contemporary styles mirrored an increasingly diversifying city, which reflected the changing international architectural fashions. The Second World War saw a halt to construction by 1942. By the late 1940s, Melbourne boasted an array of styles the eras in which it prospered, including Victorian, Gothic, Queen Anne and the most flourishing style of the early 20th century–art deco.

Mitchell House (1937)

The arrival of the 50s saw contemporary high rise offices constructed and the ICI House, built in 1955, was Australia's tallest building at the time.[37] ICI House, breaking Melbourne's long standing 132 ft height limit, was the first International Style skyscraper in the country.[37] It symbolised progress, modernity, efficiency and the booming corporate power in a postwar Melbourne. Its development also paved way for the construction of other modern high-rise office buildings, thus changing the shape of Melbourne's already diverse urban centre. Melbourne was the first city in Australia to undergo a post-war high-rise boom beginning in the late 1950s, though Sydney in the following decades built more, with over 50 high-rise buildings constructed between the 1970s–90s.[38][39] The 1960s and 1970s were a period of lax attitudes towards the city's early heritage, and many commentators now view these years of rampant demolition as one akin to urban vandalism.[40] Whelan the Wrecker, a now infamous demolition company, was responsible for most of the destruction towards most of Melbourne's historic buildings, notably the Federal Coffee Palace. A vast number of city hotels also closed in the 1950s, as a result of blighting liquor laws, which meant that the cost of running a licensed venue outstripped the return.[41] This may have explained the dwindling patronage of Melbourne's grand hotels in the 1950s and 60s.

Another venue that shaped Melbourne's early architectural form is the pub, a licensed drinking establishment traditionally built on corners within the inner-city and city centre, usually no more than two-storeys tall. In the 1920s, there were about 100 corner pubs in Melbourne but this figure diminished to 45 by the 1960s. Today there are approximately 12 operating in the CBD – including The Metropolitan, which is located on the corner of William Street, and first served beer in 1854.[42]

The 1970s ushered in somewhat of a high-rise boom in Melbourne. 140 William Street (1972) is one such example of this contemporary style.

In 1972, as a result of sustained pressure from the National Trust, Victorian Parliament amended the Town and Country Planning Act to include the "conservation and enhancement of buildings, works, objects and sites specified as being of architectural, historical or scientific interest". The act went onto specify the prohibition of "pulling down", "removal" or "decoration or defacement" to any such building. Because only specified sites were to be protected, the local councils across Melbourne had the task of allocating buildings and places that warranted protection. The City of Melbourne council specified the entire CBD as an area of significance in 1973. However, this blanket protection measure came unstuck in 1975 when the council was threatened with compensation payments to developers if their plans were rejected on heritage grounds. Despite this, most of the cities heritage buildings were already protected by that time under the authority of the Historic Buildings Act. However, the act involved representatives from real estate and corrupt development industries with ulterior motives. As a result, "developers white elephant schemes for central Melbourne proceeded virtually unchecked throughout the 70s"–resulting in widespread loss of historic buildings.[43]

Controversy arose in 2016 after the historic Corkman Irish Pub in Carlton was illegally demolished overnight by developer Raman Shaqiri, resulting in the State Planning Minister pursuing an order (via the Victorian Administrative Appeals Tribunal) for the two-storey pub to be rebuilt.[44] The site owners were fined AUD$1.325 million after pleading guilty to the process. The site of the pub, which was built in 1858 and was once called the Carlton Inn Hotel, is currently a temporary carpark.[45]

Between the late 1970s and 1980s, Melbourne's skyline reached new heights with the construction of several office buildings. Whelan the Wrecker went out of business in the early 1990s and heritage laws were tightened into the mid 1990s. In 1972, 140 William Street (formerly known as BHP House) became the city's first building to exceed the height of 150 metres and was the tallest in Melbourne for a few years. It was constructed in steel and concrete and features an imposing dark glass facade. Designed by the architectural practice Yuncken Freeman alongside engineers Irwin Johnson and Partners, it was heavily influenced by contemporary skyscrapers in Chicago. The local architects sought technical advice from Fazlur Khan of renowned American architectural firm Skidmore, Owings & Merrill (SOM), spending 10 weeks at their Chicago office in 1968.[46] The design ingenuity of 140 William Street was recognised as the building became one of the few heritage registered skyscrapers in Melbourne.[47]

Skyscrapers of the Melbourne city centre, 2014.

The Optus Centre, which surpassed 140 William Street's height marginally, was completed in 1975. In 1977 Nauru House claimed the feat of the tallest building in Melbourne at a height of 182 metres (7,200 inches)1978, the first of the Collins Place towers was opened, at a height of 185 metres. The design of Collins Place was based around a pair of towers at 45 degree angles to the Hoddle Grid, with the triangular spaces between forming an open plaza to the street and a shopping plaza behind the towers. All open spaces are covered by a space frame, with transparent plastic roofing. The whole complex is clad in tan-coloured precast masonry panels. In 1986, the Rialto Towers surpassed Sydney's MLC Centre as the tallest building in the Southern Hemisphere, with a height of 251 metres. At the time of its opening it was the 23rd–tallest building in the world.[48] In the 1990s, another 9 buildings were constructed in Melbourne that exceeded 150 metres; 5 of these surpassed heights of 200 metres. 101 Collins Street, which is 260-metre-tall (850 ft), became the tallest building in Australia and the Southern Hemisphere in 1991; it was surpassed in height as a result of the completion of the nearby 120 Collins Street that same year.[49] The skyscraper, which stands at 265 metres in height, held the titles for tallest building in Australia and the Southern Hemisphere for fourteen years, until the completion of the Gold Coast's Q1 in 2005.

Between 1996 and 97, a less admired Melbourne building became a target of demolition: the streamlined modernist Gas and Fuel Buildings. These structures were built in the late 1960s at a time when modernisation of the city was considered favourable.[50] The two towers, designed by Perrot and Parents, were also known as the Princes Gate Towers. As public opinion swayed back towards the desirability of 19th century heritage, the modernist Gas and Fuel Towers grew to be seen as "ugly and featureless", with no connection to the heritage that surrounded. The Kennett Government's decision to demolish the modernist towers was generally met with approval, and the towers were demolished to make way for Federation Square.[50] A similar fate was met by Hotel Australia, built in a Functionalist/Moderne style in 1939 and demolished in 1989.[51] In 2008, one of the last remaining Victorian arcades in the Melbourne CBD was demolished under approval from the planning minister at the time Matthew Guy. The decision and the rapidity of the demolition created public outrage.[52] The building, Eastern Arcade and Apollo Hall, built in 1872, was constructed on the site of the old Haymarket Theatre. It was the third arcade to be built in Melbourne and larger than both Queen's Arcade and the Royal Arcade. The Eastern Arcade was designed by George Johnston and had 68 stores as well as an upper storey. Despite discussions held by the Melbourne City Council to preserve the building or at least its facade, the entire structure was torn down in 2008.

• 
  Collins Place
• 
  120 Collins Street
• 
  530 Collins Street
• 
  Rialto Towers

Atrium inside Federation Square

The new millennium saw a tighter attitude towards heritage conservation and a construction boom in Melbourne. On the back of Australia's financial and mining booms between 1969 and 1970, and the establishment of the headquarters of many major companies in the city, resulted in a continual rise in large, modern office buildings being constructed outside of the historic CBD and in newer precincts like Southbank and Docklands to preserve heritage overlays within the city centre.

The 2000s saw a continuation of skyscrapers and tall buildings with the urban renewal opening of the Melbourne Docklands in 2000 and the construction of Eureka Tower, an apartment building which is currently Melbourne's second–tallest skyscraper and the 77th tallest in the world at 92 floors and 297 metres.[53] The glass style building was constructed by Fender Katsalidis Architects.

• 
  Eureka Tower, Melbourne's second tallest building
• 
  Victorian Comprehensive Cancer Centre
• 
  Apartments in St Kilda

The South Melbourne Town Hall (1879)

Each municipality in Melbourne is represented by its own town hall.[58] The City of Melbourne's central municipal building is located on the northeast corner of Swanston and Collins Streets–it is the oldest town hall in Melbourne's metropolitan area, constructed in 1887 in Second Empire style, by the iconic local architect Joseph Reed and Barnes. The building is topped by Prince Alfred's Tower, named after the Duke. The tower includes a 2.44 m diameter clock, which was started on 31 August 1874, after being presented to the council by the Mayor's son, Vallange Condell. It was built by Smith and Sons of London. The longest of its copper hands measures 1.19 m long, and weighs 8.85 kg. The Main Auditorium includes a magnificent concert organ, now comprising 147 ranks and 9,568 pipes. The organ was originally built by Hill, Norman & Beard (of England) in 1929 and was recently rebuilt and enlarged by Schantz Organ Company of the United States.

South Melbourne Town Hall, which represented the now amalgamated areas of South Melbourne, Port Melbourne and St Kilda, is one of the second oldest town hall's and civic centres built in Melbourne, completed in 1879 in an elaborate Victorian Academic Classical style with French Second Empire features, dominated by a very tall multi-stage clock tower. The building is on the Victorian Heritage Register.[59]

Block Arcade

The many laneways and arcades of Melbourne have become internationally famous. Not only to they boast national cultural significance in Australia, but they have come to collectively represent Melbourne. The abundance of lanes in the Melbourne city centre reflects the town planning of Melbourne–the Hoddle Grid, they originated as service laneways for horses and carts.[60] In some parts of the city, notably the Little Lonsdale area, they were associated with the city's gold-rush era slums. Notable laneways include Centre Place and Degraves Lane. Melbourne's numerous shopping arcades reached a peak of popularity in the late-Victorian era and in the interwar years. These notably include Block Place and Royal Arcade. Some notable demolished arcades include Coles Book arcade and Queens Walk arcade. Cathedral Arcade, in the Nicholas Building (1927), was built in the art deco style and reflects Melbourne's 1920s architecture with glass domes, leadlight, arches, and shopfronts with detailed wood paneling.

Since the 1990s Melbourne's lanes, particularly the pedestrianised ones, have gentrified. Officialdom has recognised their heritage value, and they attract interest from Australia and around the world. Some of the lanes have become particularly notable for their acclaimed urban art.

Bolte Bridge (1999)

Melbourne's positioning spanning the Yarra River, and on the coast, necessitates several water crossings. Bolte Bridge, Australia's longest bridge, is a large twin cantilever bridge that spans the Yarra, and Victoria Harbour in the Docklands, to the west of the Melbourne city centre. Bolte Bridge was designed by architects Denton Corker Marshall from 1996 to 1999 at a cost of $75 million. The bridge features two 140 metre[61] high silver (grey concrete) towers, situated on either side of the roadway at the midpoint of the bridge's span. These two towers are an aesthetic addition by the architects, and are not joined to the main body of the bridge.[61] Several other pedestrian bridges that cross the Yarra River, connecting Southbank to the Melbourne city centre were built between the 19th-century and the 1990s. The most notable early multi-purpose crossing of the Yarra is the Princes Bridge, constructed in 1888.[62] A more recent example of a bridge crossing over the Yarra is the Evan Walker Bridge, completed in 1992.

The wrought-iron arch Queens Bridge, one of the oldest remaining bridges in the city, was constructed in 1889 has five wrought iron plate girder spans, and is listed on the Victorian Heritage Register.[63][64][65] The bridge was built by contractor David Munro, and replaced a timber footbridge built in 1860.[66][67] The Morell Bridge, built in 1899, is notable as the first bridge in Victoria that was built using reinforced concrete.[68][69][70][71] The bridge features elaborate decorations on the three arch spans, including prominent dragon motifs as well as ornamental Victorian lights. The gutters on the bridge are cobbled bluestone, with a single lane bitumen strip running down the middle. The Bridge is listed on the Victorian Heritage Register.[72]

• 
  Church Street Bridge
• 
  Princes Bridge
• 
  Hawthorn Bridge

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• Davison, Graeme (1978). The Rise and Fall of Marvellous Melbourne. Melbourne University Press. ISBN 978-0-522851-23-6.
• Griffiths, Jessica (2014). Imperial Culture in Antipodean Cities, 1880-1939. Springer. ISBN 978-1-137385-73-4.