Rock Master

Rock Master is an international climbing competition held every year in Arco.

The event takes place in two rounds: the first is an on-sight session and the second is called "after work". The final classification is given by the sum of the two events. On Friday the athletes are given a chance to survey the work route, and the actual climbing takes place on Saturday and Sunday.

History

The history of Rock Master is linked to that of the first international races in the history of climbing. In 1985 it was disputed for the first time Sportroccia to Bardonecchia. The following year the event was tied to a stop at the side of the Colodri of Arc. Right on the wall of the Colodri in 1987, played in the first Rock Master. The following year, the race left the rock and from that moment is played only on artificial in a large open space at the base of Colodri.

Since 1999, in addition to lead climbing, bouldering and speed climbing competitions were also held.

Since 2006, during the event a jury assigns Arco Rock Legends, two awards are like the Oscars of climbing:

  • Salewa Rock Award with the athlete had the best performance of single pitch sport climbs and boulder
  • La Sportiva Competition Award for the best athlete who has competed in the previous competition season.

The competition is usually held the first weekend of September, with a few exceptions:

  • in 2010 has been brought forward to July as a pre-event of the World Championship of climbing that would take place in 2011. Instead of the usual two rounds (worked and view) a competition was held to only classical view in three rounds: qualifiers, semi-finals and finals.
  • in 2011 instead of the Rock Master was held in July at the Arco Climbing World Championship in 2011 . The title of the Rock Master was, however, given the evidence of the Duel, a competition demonstration that took place at the end of the World Championship and attended the first sixteen male and female athletes of the league lead.[1]

In 2012 the speed test was valid also as the fourth leg of the World Cup speed climbing 2012.[2]

Winners

Lead

YearMaleFemale
1987 Stefan Glowacz Lynn Hill
1988 Stefan Glowacz
Patrick Edlinger
Lynn Hill
1989 Didier Raboutou Lynn Hill
1990 François Legrand Lynn Hill
1991 Yuji Hirayama Isabelle Patissier
1992 Stefan Glowacz Lynn Hill
1993 Elie Chevieux Susi Good
1994 François Legrand Robyn Erbesfield
1995 François Lombard Laurence Guyon
1996 François Lombard Katie Brown
1997 François Legrand Katie Brown
1998 François Legrand Liv Sansoz
1999 Eugeny Ovtchinnikov Muriel Sarkany
2000 Eugeny Ovtchinnikov Muriel Sarkany
2001 Christian Bindhammer
Tomáš Mrázek
Yuji Hirayama
Muriel Sarkany
Martina Cufar
2002 Alexandre Chabot Sandrine Levet
2003 Alexandre Chabot Angela Eiter
2004 Alexandre Chabot Angela Eiter
2005 Ramón Julián Puigblanque Angela Eiter
2006 Ramón Julián Puigblanque Sandrine Levet
2007 Ramón Julián Puigblanque Angela Eiter
2008 Patxi Usobiaga Johanna Ernst
2009 Ramón Julián Puigblanque Angela Eiter
2010 Ramón Julián Puigblanque Jain Kim
2011--
2012 Ramón Julián Puigblanque Angela Eiter
2013 Ramón Julián Puigblanque Mina Markovič

Bouldering

YearMaleFemale
1999 Daniel Andrada Elena Choumilova
2000 Tomasz Oleksy Natalia Novikova
2001 Salavat Rakhmetov Corinne Théroux
2002 Mauro Calibani Ol'ga Jakovleva
2003 Mauro Calibani Olga Bibik
2004 Matthias Müller Mélanie Son
2005 Kilian Fischhuber Mélanie Son
2006 Nalle Hukkataival Anna Stöhr
2007 Gareth Parry Anna Stöhr
2008 Kilian Fischhuber Katharina Saurwein
2009 Kilian Fischhuber Alizée Dufraisse
2010 Cédric Lachat Anna Stöhr
2011--
2012 Dmitrij Šarafutdinov Alex Puccio
2013 Rustam Gelmanov Alex Puccio

Speed

YearMaleFemale
1999 Vladimir Zakharov
2000 Alexei Gadeev
2001 Iakov Soubotine
2002 Tomasz Oleksy
2003 Alexei Gadeev
2004 Tomasz Oleksy
2005 Tomasz Oleksy
2006 Sergey Sinitsyn
2007 Evgenij Vajcechovskij
2008 Manuel EscobarOlena Ryepko
2009 Libor Hroza Edyta Ropek
2010 Libor Hroza Cuilian He
2011--
2012 Leonardo Gontero Alina Gaydamakina
2013 Libor Hroza Alina Gaydamakina
2014 Libor Hroza Anouck Jaubert

Duel

YearMaleFemale
2011 Adam Ondra Yana Chereshneva
2012 Jakob Schubert Dinara Fakhritdinova
2013 Sean McColl Dinara Fakhritdinova
2014 Sean McColl Dinara Fakhritdinova
2015 Adam Ondra Hélène Janicot

Arco Rock Legends

YearSalewa Rock AwardLa Sportiva Competition Award
2006 Josune Bereziartu Angela Eiter
2007 Patxi Usobiaga David Lama
2008 Adam Ondra Maja Vidmar
2009 Chris Sharma Kilian Fischhuber
2010 Adam Ondra Akiyo Noguchi
2011 Adam Ondra Ramón Julián Puigblanque
2012 Sasha DiGiulian Anna Stöhr
2013 Adam Ondra Mina Markovič
2014 Muriel Sarkany Urko Carmona Barandiaran
2015 Alexander Megos Adam Ondra
2016 Daniel Andrada Mina Markovic
2017 Margo Hayes Janja Garnbret

References

  1. Vinicio Stefanello. "Rock Master Gran Galà – Duel". arco2011.it. Retrieved 1 April 2013.
  2. "Speed World Cup, historic victory for Leonardo Gontero and Gaydamakina". planetmountain.com. 1 September 2012. Retrieved 1 April 2013.

Bibliography

  • Malfer, Giulio; Stefanello, Vinicio (2005). Rock Master. Nicolodi. ISBN 978-8884471949.
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