2017 IFSC Climbing World Cup

The 2017 IFSC Climbing World Cup was held in 15 locations. Bouldering competitions were held in 7 locations, lead in 8 locations, and speed in 7 locations. The season began on 7 April in Meiringen, Switzerland and concluded on 12 November in Kranj, Slovenia.

2017 IFSC Climbing World Cup
Location Meiringen, Switzerland

Chongqing, China
Nanjing, China
Hachioji, Japan
Vail, United States
Navi Mumbai, India
Villars, Switzerland
Chamonix, France
Briancon, France
Munich, Germany
Arco, Italy
Edinburgh, United Kingdom
Wujiang, China
Xiamen, China

Kranj, Slovenia
Date7 April – 12 November 2017
Champions
Men(B) Jongwon Chon

(L) Romain Desgranges
(S) Vladislav Deulin

(C) Tomoa Narasaki
Women(B) Shauna Coxsey

(L) Janja Garnbret
(S) Anouck Jaubert

(C) Janja Garnbret

The top 3 in each competition received medals, and the overall winners were awarded trophies. At the end of the season an overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.

The winners for bouldering were Jongwon Chon and Shauna Coxsey, for lead Romain Desgranges and Janja Garnbret, and for speed Vladislav Deulin and Anouck Jaubert, men and women respectively.

Highlights of the season

In lead climbing, Janja Garnbret of Slovenia was the only athlete who never missed a podium in all 8 lead competitions of the season.

In speed climbing, at the first Speed World Cup of the season in Chongqing, Iuliia Kaplina of Russia set a new world record of 7.46 seconds, breaking her previous world record of 7.53 seconds she set at the 2015 Speed World Cup in Chamonix.[1] Then the next week, at the World Cup in Nanjing, Reza Alipour of Iran and Russia's Iuliia Kaplina set new world records on their way to the men's and women's speed titles of 5.48 and 7.38 seconds respectively.[2] The previous world record for the men was set at 5.60sec by Danyil Boldyrev of Ukraine at the IFSC World Championships in 2014, while for the women was 7.46sec by Iuliia Kaplina herself just a week before in Chongqing.

Changes from the previous season

For the 2017 season, the IFSC changed the timing method for the finals of World Cup tournaments. First, climbing time for lead finals was reduced from eight to six minutes. Second, climbing time for bouldering finals was reduced from four minutes plus to four minutes dead. This means climbers can no longer continue their attempt after the four minute mark, even if they’re off the mats before the clock runs out, which was the previous rule.[3][4]

Streaming controversy

Before the start of the 2017 season, the IFSC announced that they had signed a three-year contract with the streaming platform FloSports,[5] which would have made the streams of climbing World Cups available only to paying customers instead of being freely accessible. This led to an online petition asking the IFSC to change their deal with FloSports, which was signed by more than 12,000 people,[6] and an open letter by the Athletes' Commission. The Commission voiced their frustration over the way the IFSC had previously communicated with the community at large, and "asked the athletes to withdraw cooperation with the livestream media until changes are made".[6] On the next day the IFSC apologized for having made a mistake, and announced that the deal with FloSports had not actually been signed yet despite the earlier press release, and would not be concluded.[7]

Overview
No. Location D G Gold Silver Bronze
1 Meiringen
(7–8 April)		 B M Kokoro Fujii Alexey Rubtsov Keita Watabe
W Shauna Coxsey Katharina Saurwein Miho Nonaka
2 Chongqing
(22–23 April)		 B M Jongwon Chon Tomoa Narasaki Alexey Rubtsov
W Janja Garnbret Shauna Coxsey Akiyo Noguchi
S M Vladislav Deulin Stanislav Kokorin Danyil Boldyrev
W Iuliia Kaplina Mariia Krasavina Alla Marenych
3 Nanjing
(29–30 April)		 B M Keita Watabe Tomoa Narasaki Jernej Kruder
W Shauna Coxsey Janja Garnbret Miho Nonaka
S M Reza Alipour Aleksandr Shikov Vladislav Deulin
W Iuliia Kaplina Mariia Krasavina Anouck Jaubert
4 Hachioji
(6–7 May)		 B M Alexey Rubtsov Tomoa Narasaki Keita Watabe
W Janja Garnbret Akiyo Noguchi Miho Nonaka
5 Vail
(9–10 June)		 B M Jongwon Chon Meichi Narasaki Yoshiyuki Ogata
W Shauna Coxsey Akiyo Noguchi Miho Nonaka
6 Navi Mumbai
(24–25 June)		 B M Jongwon Chon Rei Sugimoto Alexey Rubtsov
W Shauna Coxsey Miho Nonaka Akiyo Noguchi
7 Villars
(7-8 July)		 L M Romain Desgranges Domen Skofic Fedir Samoilov
W Janja Garnbret Mina Markovič Anak Verhoeven
S M Reza Alipour Stanislav Kokorin Vladislav Deulin
W Anouck Jaubert Iuliia Kaplina Mariia Krasavina
8 Chamonix
(12-13 July)		 L M Marcello Bombardi Keiichiro Korenaga Yuki Hada
W Janja Garnbret Jain Kim Anak Verhoeven
9 Briancon
(28-29 July)		 L M Romain Desgranges Sean McColl Stefano Ghisolfi
W Janja Garnbret Anak Verhoeven Jain Kim
10 Munich
(18–19 August)		 B M Jan Hojer Tomoa Narasaki Taisei Ishimatsu
W Janja Garnbret Shauna Coxsey Akiyo Noguchi
11 Arco
(25-26 August)		 L M Jakob Schubert Adam Ondra Max Rudigier
W Jain Kim Anne-Sophie Koller Janja Garnbret
S M Vladislav Deulin Reza Alipour Ludovico Fossali
W Anouck Jaubert Iuliia Kaplina Anna Tsyganova
12 Edinburgh
(23-24 September)		 L M Romain Desgranges Stefano Ghisolfi Jakob Schubert
W Janja Garnbret Jessica Pilz Jain Kim
S M Ludovico Fossali Stanislav Kokorin Leonardo Gontero
W Anouck Jaubert Mariia Krasavina Iuliia Kaplina
13 Wujiang
(7-8 October)		 L M Stefano Ghisolfi Tomoa Narasaki Hanwool KIM
W Janja Garnbret Jain Kim Julia Chanourdie
S M Aleksandr Shikov Aspar Jaelolo Sufriyanto Rindi
W Iuliia Kaplina Anouck Jaubert Elizaveta Ivanova
14 Xiamen
(14-15 October)		 L M Keiichiro Korenaga Tomoa Narasaki YuFei Pan
W Anak Verhoeven Ashima Shiraishi Janja Garnbret
S M Vladislav Deulin Aspar Jaelolo Kostiantyn Pavlenko
W Anouck Jaubert Aries Susanti Rahayu Anna Tsyganova
15 Kranj
(11-12 November)		 L M Jakob Schubert Alexander Megos Dmitrii Fakirianov
W Janja Garnbret Jain Kim Molly Thompson-Smith
OVERALL B M Jongwon Chon Tomoa Narasaki Alexey Rubtsov
W Shauna Coxsey Janja Garnbret Akiyo Noguchi
L M Romain Desgranges Stefano Ghisolfi Keiichiro Korenaga
W Janja Garnbret Jain Kim Anak Verhoeven
S M Vladislav Deulin Reza Alipour Ludovico Fossali
W Anouck Jaubert Iuliia Kaplina Mariia Krasavina
C M Tomoa Narasaki Jongwon Chon Kokoro Fujii
W Janja Garnbret Jain Kim Shauna Coxsey
NATIONAL TEAMS B A Japan Great Britain Slovenia
L A Slovenia France Japan
S A Russian Federation France Italy

Bouldering
Further information: Bouldering at the 2017 IFSC Climbing World Cup
Winners 2017 Men: 1st Place: Jongwon Chon KOR, 2nd Place: Tomoa Narasaki JPN, 3rd Place: Alexey Rubtsov RUS
Winners 2017 Women: 1st Place: Shauna Coxsey GBR, 2nd Place: Janja Garnbret SLO, 3rd. Place: Akiyo Noguchi JPN

An overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.

Men

6 best competition results were counted (not counting points in brackets) for IFSC Climbing World Cup 2017.[8]

Rank Name Points Munich Navi Mumbai Vail Hachioji Nanjing Chongqing Meiringen
1 Jongwon Chon 453 4. 55.00 1. 100.00 1. 100.00 7. 43.00 4. 55.00 1. 100.00 12. (28.00)
2 Tomoa Narasaki 404 2. 80.00 6. 47.00 9. 37.00 2. 80.00 2. 80.00 2. 80.00 21. (9.00)
3 Alexey Rubtsov 399 10. 34.00 3. 65.00 4. 55.00 1. 100.00 23. (7.00) 3. 65.00 2. 80.00
4 Keita Watabe 372 - 8. 40.00 6. 47.00 3. 65.00 1. 100.00 4. 55.00 3. 65.00
5 Kokoro Fujii 327 6. 47.00 4. 55.00 5. 51.00 9. 37.00 11. (29.00) 9. 37.00 1. 100.00
6 Rei Sugimoto 278 - 2. 80.00 10. 34.00 11. 31.00 6. 47.00 11. 31.00 4. 55.00
7 Jan Hojer 235 1. 100.00 17. 18.00 16. 20.00 - 7. 43.00 12. 28.00 13. 26.00
8 Yoshiyuki Ogata 232 5. 51.00 7. 43.00 3. 65.00 17. 18.00 27. (3.00) 17. 18.00 9. 37.00
9 Jernej Kruder 201 29. 1.00 9. 37.00 8. 40.00 23. 7.00 3. 65.00 - 5. 51.00
10 Jakob Schubert 186 9. 37.00 5. 51.00 - 5. 51.00 - 8. 40.00 23. 7.00

Women

6 best competition results were counted (not counting points in brackets) for IFSC Climbing World Cup 2017.[9]

Rank Name Points Munich Navi Mumbai Vail Hachioji Nanjing Chongqing Meiringen
1 Shauna Coxsey 560 2. 80.00 1. 100.00 1. 100.00 4. (55.00) 1. 100.00 2. 80.00 1. 100.00
2 Janja Garnbret 470 1. 100.00 - 7. 43.00 1. 100.00 2. 80.00 1. 100.00 6. 47.00
3 Akiyo Noguchi 381 3. 65.00 3. 65.00 2. 80.00 2. 80.00 13. 26.00 3. 65.00 21. (9.00)
4 Miho Nonaka 377 10. (34.00) 2. 80.00 3. 65.00 3. 65.00 3. 65.00 9. 37.00 3. 65.00
5 Petra Klingler 290 6. 47.00 4. 55.00 6. 47.00 6. 47.00 9. (37.00) 7. 43.00 5. 51.00
6 Stasa Gejo 234 4. 55.00 - 27. 3.00 8. 40.00 10. 34.00 6. 47.00 4. 55.00
7 Katja Kadic 227 11. 31.00 5. 51.00 5. 51.00 21. (9.00) 7. 43.00 11. 31.00 16. 20.00
8 Michaela Tracy 190 15. (21.00) 13. 26.00 10. 34.00 10. 34.00 11. 31.00 15. 22.00 7. 43.00
9 Fanny Gibert 187 8. 40.00 - - 5. 51.00 12. 28.00 12. 28.00 8. 40.00
10 Aya Onoe 165 - 6. 47.00 11. 31.00 12. 27.00 5. 51.00 21. 9.00 -

National Teams

For National Team Ranking, 3 best results per competition and category were counted (not counting results in brackets).[10]

Country names as used by the IFSC

Rank Nation Points Munich Navi Mumbai Vail Hachioji Nanjing Chongqing Meiringen
1 Japan 2118 (295) 374 372 364 390 300 318
2 Great Britain 929 146 169 166 129 173 (103) 146
3 Slovenia 927 188 152 135 (116) 188 131 133
4 Germany 736 176 126 (63) 92 104 104 134
5 France 715 151 - - 190 112 122 140
6 Republic of Korea 694 69 118 140 98 128 141 (65)
7 Russian Federation 608 112 145 55 103 (48) 89 104
8 Austria 548 71 115 62 92 (54) 116 92
9 Suisse 368 59 56 71 47 (42) 50 85
10 United States of America 340 77 - 155 27 37 7 37

Lead
Further information: Lead climbing at the 2017 IFSC Climbing World Cup

An overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.

Men

7 best competition results were counted (not counting points in brackets) for IFSC Climbing Worldcup 2017. Romain Desgranges won.[11]

Rank Name Points Kranj Xiamen Wujiang Edinburgh Arco Briancon Chamonix Villars
1 Romain Desgranges 477 9. 37.00 22. (9.00) 5. 51.00 1. 100.00 10. 34.00 1. 100.00 4. 55.00 1. 100.00
2 Stefano Ghisolfi 413 5. 51.00 7. 43.00 1. 100.00 2. 80.00 18. (16.00) 3. 65.00 7. 43.00 11. 31.00
3 Keiichiro Korenaga 373 10. (32.00) 1. 100.00 8. 40.00 10. 34.00 5. 51.00 10. 34.00 2. 80.00 10. 34.00
4 Domen Skofic 325 4. 55.00 17. 18.00 4. 55.00 4. 55.00 21. (10.00) 9. 37.00 13. 25.00 2. 80.00
5 Marcello Bombardi 289 7. 43.00 23. (8.00) 17. 18.00 12. 28.00 9. 37.00 6. 47.00 1. 100.00 18. 16.00
6 Jakob Schubert 265 1. 100.00 - - 3. 65.00 1. 100.00 - - -
7 Thomas Joannes 221 12. 28.00 9. 37.00 16. 20.00 5. 51.00 6. 47.00 19. 14.00 27. (2.00) 14. 24.00
8 Hanwool Kim 213 14. 24.00 10. 34.00 3. 65.00 13. 26.00 15. 22.00 13. 26.00 16. 16.00 29. (2.00)
9 Fedir Samoilov 193 15. 22.00 5. 51.00 25. 6.00 9. 37.00 24. 7.00 - 26. 5.00 3. 65.00
10 Francesco Vettorata 182 6. 47.00 14. 24.00 14. 24.00 - 16. 19.00 14. 24.00 9. 35.00 22. 9.00

Women

7 best competition results were counted (not counting points in brackets) for IFSC Climbing Worldcup 2017. Janja Garnbret won.[12]

Rank Name Points Kranj Xiamen Wujiang Edinburgh Arco Briancon Chamonix Villars
1 Janja Garnbret 665 1. 100.00 3. 65.00 1. 100.00 1. 100.00 3. (65.00) 1. 100.00 1. 100.00 1. 100.00
2 Jain Kim 525 2. 80.00 8. (38.00) 2. 80.00 3. 65.00 1. 100.00 3. 65.00 2. 80.00 4. 55.00
3 Anak Verhoeven 444 8. 40.00 1. 100.00 8. (40.00) 6. 47.00 6. 47.00 2. 80.00 3. 65.00 3. 65.00
4 Jessica Pilz 374 - 4. 55.00 7. 43.00 2. 80.00 7. 43.00 5. 51.00 5. 51.00 5. 51.00
5 Julia Chanourdie 362 4. 55.00 11. (28.00) 3. 65.00 5. 51.00 4. 55.00 4. 55.00 6. 47.00 10. 34.00
6 Mina Markovič 304 5. 51.00 5. 51.00 10. 34.00 15. 22.00 21. (10.00) 8. 40.00 13. 26.00 2. 80.00
7 Molly Thompson-Smith 267 3. 65.00 6. 45.00 5. 51.00 9. 35.00 8. 40.00 11. 31.00 - -
8 Ashima Shiraishi 233 - 2. 80.00 6. 47.00 4. 55.00 5. 51.00 - - -
9 Anne-Sophie Koller 210 11. 31.00 - - 18. 16.00 2. 80.00 22. 9.00 9. 37.00 9. 37.00
10 Hannah Schubert 204 16. 20.00 8. 38.00 13. 26.00 9. 35.00 19. 14.00 19. (14.00) 12. 28.00 7. 43.00

National Teams

For National Team Ranking, 3 best results per competition and category were counted (not counting results in brackets). Slovenia won.[13]

Rank Nation Points Kranj Xiamen Wujiang Edinburgh Arco Briancon Chamonix Villars
1 Slovenia 1473 273 134 189 201 (86) 197 196 283
2 France 1440 132 (124) 195 248 180 280 173 232
3 Japan 1418 169 334 261 (97) 166 172 198 118
4 Austria 1070 144 127 (91) 242 224 125 95 113
5 Italy 1022 148 (95) 160 154 115 139 193 113
6 Republic of Korea 895 113 164 205 97 124 96 96 (57)
7 Belgium 642 88 106 (41) 70 49 110 116 103
8 United States of America 628 - 81 52 149 124 126 56 40
9 Germany 576 136 (35) 85 37 66 59 69 124
10 Great Britain 432 112 45 51 104 69 51 - -

Speed
Further information: Speed climbing at the 2017 IFSC Climbing World Cup

An overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.

Men

6 best competition results were counted (not counting points in brackets) for IFSC Climbing World Cup 2017. Vladislav Deulin won.[14]

Rank Name Points Xiamen Wujiang Edinburgh Arco Villars Nanjing Chongqing
1 Vladislav Deulin 470.00 1. 100.00 8. 40.00 8. (40.00) 1. 100.00 3. 65.00 3. 65.00 1. 100.00
2 Reza Alipour 351.00 12. 28.00 - - 2. 80.00 1. 100.00 1. 100.00 7. 43.00
3 Ludovico Fossali 346.00 4. 55.00 9. 37.00 1. 100.00 3. 65.00 4. 55.00 10. 34.00 16. (20.00)
4 Aleksandr Shikov 338.00 14. (24.00) 1. 100.00 4. 55.00 13. 26.00 13. 26.00 2. 80.00 5. 51.00
5 Stanislav Kokorin 331.00 15. (22.00) 12. 28.00 2. 80.00 9. 37.00 2. 80.00 13. 26.00 2. 80.00
6 Leonardo Gontero 284.00 11. 31.00 13. (26.00) 3. 65.00 6. 47.00 7. 43.00 5. 51.00 6. 47.00
7 QiXin Zhong 196.00 6. 47.00 6. 47.00 - 15. 22.00 - 7. 43.00 9. 37.00
8 Guillaume Moro 181.00 7. 43.00 18. 16.00 5. 51.00 10. 34.00 9. 37.00 - -
9 Danyil Boldyrev 167.00 - - - 4. 55.00 - 6. 47.00 3. 65.00
10 Marcin Dzienski 164.00 21. (10.00) 11. 31.00 15. 22.00 14. 24.00 5. 51.00 16. 20.00 18. 16.00

Women

6 best competition results were counted (not counting points in brackets) for IFSC Climbing World Cup 2017. Anouck Jaubert won.[15]

Rank Name Points Xiamen Wujiang Edinburgh Arco Villars Nanjing Chongqing
1 Anouck Jaubert 545.00 1. 100.00 2. 80.00 1. 100.00 1. 100.00 1. 100.00 3. 65.00 5. (51.00)
2 Iuliia Kaplina 525.00 23. (8.00) 1. 100.00 3. 65.00 2. 80.00 2. 80.00 1. 100.00 1. 100.00
3 Mariia Krasavina 395.00 7. 43.00 6. 47.00 2. 80.00 11. (31.00) 3. 65.00 2. 80.00 2. 80.00
4 Anna Tsyganova 331.00 3. 65.00 8. 40.00 - 3. 65.00 5. 51.00 4. 55.00 4. 55.00
5 Alla Marenych 280.00 6. 47.00 9. 37.00 7. 43.00 9. 37.00 12. (28.00) 5. 51.00 3. 65.00
6 Aurelia Sarisson 276.00 5. 51.00 5. 51.00 8. 40.00 5. 51.00 13. (26.00) 7. 43.00 8. 40.00
7 Anna Brozek 271.00 11. (31.00) 10. 34.00 4. 55.00 4. 55.00 7. 43.00 9. 37.00 6. 47.00
8 Edyta Ropek 213.00 17. 18.00 21. (10.00) 10. 34.00 7. 43.00 9. 37.00 6. 47.00 10. 34.00
9 Klaudia Buczek 179.00 19. (14.00) 12. 28.00 9. 37.00 8. 40.00 17. 18.00 10. 34.00 15. 22.00
10 Victoire Andrier 177.00 12. 28.00 11. 31.00 5. 51.00 16. 20.00 6. 47.00 - -

National Teams

For National Team Ranking, 3 best results per competition and category were counted (not counting results in brackets). Russian Federation won.[16]

Rank Nation Points Xiamen Wujiang Edinburgh Arco Villars Nanjing Chongqing
1 Russian Federation 2358 333 406 (320) 344 392 417 466
2 France 1220 222 178 242 205 210 163 (146)
3 Italy 996 114 93 305 225 152 107 (81)
4 Poland 919 (82) 112 191 177 182 138 119
5 Indonesia 793 329 324 - - 140 - -
6 People's Republic of China 670 141 155 - 22 - 160 192
7 Ukraine 596 112 71 43 94 (40) 122 154
8 Islamic Republic of Iran 392 35 - - 114 100 100 43
9 Czech Republic 191 - - 37 50 24 40 40
10 Austria 144 - 8 81 34 21 - -

Combined

Maximum number of counting results per discipline: Lead: 7, Boulder: 6, Speed: 6. Not counting points are in brackets.

Men

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Combined World Cup 2017:[17]

Rank Name Points
1 Tomoa Narasaki 571.00
2 Jongwon Chon 564.00
3 Kokoro Fujii 489.00
4 Romain Desgranges 477.00
5 Vladislav Deulin 470.00
6 Jakob Schubert 451.00
7 Jan Hojer 432.00
8 Alexey Rubtsov 427.00
9 Stefano Ghisolfi 413.00
10 Keiichiro Korenaga 373.00

Women

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Combined World Cup 2017:[18]

Rank Name Points
1 Janja Garnbret 1135.00
2 Jain Kim 626.00
3 Shauna Coxsey 607.00
4 Anouck Jaubert 545.00
5 Iuliia Kaplina 525.00
6 Akiyo Noguchi 518.00
7 Anak Verhoeven 444.00
8 Mariia Krasavina 395.00
8 Miho Nonaka 395.00
10 Jessica Pilz 387.00

References
  1. "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B,S) - Chongqing (CHN) 2017".
  2. "Records tumble on final day of IFSC World Cup in Nanjing".
  3. "New IFSC 4 minute rule: from hero to zero". Siked!. 3 April 2017. Retrieved 24 April 2018.
  4. "IFSC Rules Modifications 2017" (PDF).
  5. "IFSC and FloSports Sign Online Streaming Deal". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 5 April 2017. Retrieved 24 April 2018.
  6. "The climbers speak: Open letter from the Athletes' Commission". OnBouldering.com. 11 April 2017. Retrieved 24 April 2018.
  7. "Free streaming! The IFSC backtracks and cancels the FloClimbing deal". OnBouldering.com. 12 April 2017. Retrieved 24 April 2018.
  8. "IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2017 Men OVERALL Ranking".
  9. "IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2017 Women OVERALL Ranking".
  10. "IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2017 National Team Ranking".
  11. "IFSC Lead Climbing World Cup 2017 Men OVERALL Ranking".
  12. "IFSC Lead Climbing World Cup 2017 Women OVERALL Ranking".
  13. "IFSC Lead Climbing World Cup 2017 National Team Ranking".
  14. "IFSC Speed Climbing World Cup 2017 Men OVERALL Ranking".
  15. "IFSC Speed Climbing World Cup 2017 Women OVERALL Ranking".
  16. "IFSC Speed Climbing World Cup 2017 National Team Ranking".
  17. "IFSC CLIMBING WORLDCUP 2017: MEN COMBINED". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2019-10-28.
  18. "IFSC CLIMBING WORLDCUP 2017: WOMEN COMBINED". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2019-10-28.
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