Aran Islands

The Aran Islands (Irish: Oileáin Árann—pronunciation: [əˈlʲɑːnʲ ˈɑːɾən]) or The Arans (na hÁrainneacha—[nə ˈhɑːɾənʲəxə]) are a group of three islands located at the mouth of Galway Bay, on the west coast of Ireland, with a total area around 46 km2 (18 sq mi). They constitute the barony of Aran in County Galway, Ireland.

Not to be confused with Isle of Arran or Arranmore.

From west to east, the islands are: Inishmore (Árainn Mhór/Inis Mór[1]—[ˈɑːɾənʲ woːɾ] or [ˈɪnʲɪʃ moːɾ]), the largest; Inishmaan (Inis Meáin/Inis Meadhóin—[ˈɪnʲɪʃ mʲɑːnʲ]), the second-largest; and Inisheer (Inis Thiar/Inis Oírr/Inis Oirthir—[ˈɪnʲɪʃ hiəɾ / iːɾʲ / ˈɛɾʲhɪɾʲ]), the smallest.

The 1,200 inhabitants primarily speak Irish, the language used in local placenames. All islanders are also fluent or proficient in English. The islands belong to the Gaeltacht.

Location map of the Aran Islands, County Galway

Location and access

The approaches to the bay between the Aran Islands and the mainland are:

  • North Sound / An Súnda ó Thuaidh (more accurately Bealach Locha Lurgan) lies between Inishmore and Lettermullen, County Galway.
  • Gregory's Sound / Súnda Ghríoghóra (formerly known as Bealach na h-Áite) lies between Inishmore and Inishmaan.
  • Foul Sound / An Súnda Salach (formerly known as Bealach na Fearbhaighe) lies between Inishmaan and Inisheer.
  • South Sound / An Súnda ó Dheas (formerly known as Bealach na Fínnise) lies between Inisheer and County Clare.
  • Ferries operate to all three islands from Rossaveal in Co. Galway (year round) and Doolin in Co. Clare (seasonal). Flights operated by Aer Arann Islands also operate from Inverin.

History
Teampall Brecan, Inishmore

Little is known about the first inhabitants to cross over to the islands, but they likely came across in search of a safe haven from attack. The islands are made up of Carboniferous limestone, and do not have naturally occurring topsoil. Early settlers augmented the soil with seaweed and sand from the shore. Drystone walls were built to protect the soil. Seven prehistoric stone forts are on the islands. Dún Aonghasa, on Inishmore, dates back to 1100 BC.[2]

Enda of Aran founded the Killeany monastery in Inishmore, AD 490.[3] It became a center of learning, piety, and asceticism.[4] Also on Inishmore is Tempull Breccain, the fifth-century Church of Saint Brecan.[5] A ringfort on Inisheer, called Dún Formna, became the site of a castle built by the O'Briens around the 14th century. Cromwell's soldiers destroyed the castle and all but two of the seven churches established by Brecan.

The typical settlement was a clachan, a scattered cluster of small, single-story cottages with thatched roofs. Typical clothing for an Aran man was homespun trousers and waistcoats made of grey or light-brown tweed; for women, a calf-length woven skirt along with a knitted sweater was worn. Aran knitters were highly skilled.[6] In the 1820s, harvesting kelp was an important sideline to raise money for the land rents. Salvaging flotsam often produced wood for building and fuel.[7]

In 1898, John Millington Synge started spending his summers in the Aran Islands. His 1904 play, Riders to the Sea, is set on Inishmaan.[8] He published The Aran Islands in 1907, based on his journals.[9] All six of his plays are either set in or heavily influenced by his time in Aran.[10]

Geology
A view over the karst landscape on Inishmore, from Dún Aonghasa, an ancient stone fort

The islands' geology is mainly karst limestone, related to the Burren in County Clare (to the east), not the granites of Connemara to the north. This is most obvious in the construction of the walls around the fields.

The limestones date from the Viséan age of the Lower Carboniferous, formed as sediments in a tropical sea approximately 350 million years ago, and compressed into horizontal strata with fossil corals, crinoids, sea urchins, and ammonites. Glaciation following the Namurian facilitated greater denudation. The result is that the Aran Islands are one of the finest examples of a Glacio-Karst landscape in the world. The effects of the last glacial period (the Midlandian) are most in evidence, with the islands overrun by ice during this glaciation. The impact of earlier karstification (solutional erosion) has been eliminated by the last glacial period. Any karstification now seen dates from around 11,000 years ago, so the island karst is recent.

Solutional processes have widened and deepened the grykes of the limestone pavement. Pre-existing lines of weakness in the rock (vertical joints) contribute to the formation of extensive fissures separated by clints (flat, pavement-like slabs). The rock karstification facilitates the formation of subterranean drainage.

Coastal geomorphology
Coastal boulder deposits on the west coast of Inishmore. Person standing next to the large boulder on the bedrock platform gives a sense of scale. This is about 16 m above sea level and 90 m inland.

Huge boulders up to 50 m (160 ft) above the sea at parts of the west-facing cliffs are an extreme form of storm beach, cast there by waves.[11] Previously considered as possible tsunami deposits, these coastal boulder deposits have recently been shown (by Rónadh Cox and collaborators) to be definitively the work of storms. [12]

Climate and agriculture

The islands have an unusually temperate climate. Average air temperatures range from 15 °C (59 °F) in July to 6 °C (43 °F) in January. The soil temperature does not usually drop below 6 °C (43 °F) (the winter of 2010 recorded a prolonged period of snow, the first in living memory). Since grass will grow once the temperature rises above 6 °C (43 °F), this means that the island (like the neighbouring Burren) has one of the longest growing seasons in Ireland or Britain, and supports diverse and rich plant growth. Late May is the sunniest time[13] and also likely the best time to view flowers, with the gentians and avens peaking (but orchid species blooming later).

Demographics
Historical population
YearPop.±%
18413,521—    
18513,333−5.3%
18613,291−1.3%
18713,038−7.7%
18813,148+3.6%
18912,890−8.2%
19012,845−1.6%
19112,668−6.2%
YearPop.±%
19262,152−19.3%
19362,106−2.1%
19461,968−6.6%
19511,765−10.3%
19561,678−4.9%
19611,648−1.8%
19661,612−2.2%
19711,496−7.2%
YearPop.±%
19791,377−8.0%
19811,368−0.7%
19861,339−2.1%
19911,322−1.3%
19961,303−1.4%
20021,280−1.8%
20061,225−4.3%
Source: Central Statistics Office. "CNA17: Population by Off Shore Island, Sex and Year". CSO.ie. Retrieved 12 October 2016.

Flora and fauna

The islands supports arctic, Mediterranean and alpine plants side-by-side, due to the unusual environment. Like the Burren, the Aran islands are renowned for their remarkable assemblage of plants and animals.[14]

The grikes (crevices) provide moist shelter, thus supporting a wide range of plants including dwarf shrubs. Where the surface of the pavement is shattered into gravel, many of the hardier arctic or alpine plants can be found, but when the limestone pavement is covered by a thin layer of soil, patches of grass are seen, interspersed with plants such as gentian and orchids.

Notable insects present include butterflies—pearl-bordered fritillary Boloria euphrosyne, brown hairstreak Thecla betulae, marsh fritillary Euphydryas aurinia, and wood white Leptidea sinapis; moths—the burren green Calamia tridens, Irish annulet Odontognophos dumetata, and transparent burnet Zygaena purpuralis; and the hoverfly Doros profuges.

Teampall Brecan, Inishmore

Traditional life and Irish language
A view over Inishmore, from Dún Eochla, with Inishmaan and Cliffs of Moher in the background

On the cliff tops, ancient forts such as Dún Aonghasa (Dún Aengus) on Inishmór and Dún Chonchúir (Fort of Conchobar) on Inishmaan are some of the oldest archaeological remains in Ireland. A lacework of ancient stone walls across all three islands (1,600 km or 1,000 mi in all) encloses networks of small fields to contain local livestock. Also found are early clocháns (dry-stone beehive huts from the early-Christian period). Enda of Aran founded the first true Irish monastery near Killeany (Cill Éinne or Church of Enda). In time, a dozen monasteries were on Inishmór alone. Many Irish saints had some connection with Aran: St. Brendan was blessed for his voyage there; Jarlath of Tuam, Finnian of Clonard, and St. Columba called it the "Sun of the West". In total, 38 national monuments are on the Aran Islands.

The islands were first populated in larger numbers probably at the time of the Cromwellian conquest of Ireland in the mid-17th century, when the Catholic population of Ireland had the choice of going "to hell or to Connacht". Many fled to the numerous islands off the west coast of Ireland, where they adapted themselves to the raw climatic conditions, developing a survival system of total self-sufficiency. Their methods included mixing layers of sand and seaweed on top of rocks to create fertile soil, a technique used to grow potatoes and other vegetables.[15] The same seaweed method also provided grazing grass within stone-wall enclosures for cattle and sheep, which in turn provided leather, wool, and yarn to make hide shoes, handwoven trousers, skirts and jackets, hand-knitted sweaters, shawls, and caps. The islanders also constructed unique boats for fishing, building their thatched cottages from the materials available, or trading with the mainland.

The Aran Islands are an official Gaeltacht, which gives full official status to Irish as the medium of all official services, including education. An unusually high rate of Irish-language monolingualism was found among senior natives until the end of the 20th century, in large part because of the isolating nature of the traditional trades practised and the natural isolation of the islands in general from mainland Ireland over the course of the islands' history. Young islanders can take their leaving examination at 18 on the islands, and then most leave for third-level education. Many blame the decline of Irish-speaking among young members of the island community on English-language television, available since the 1960s; furthermore, many younger islanders leave for the mainland when they come of age.

Transport

Year-round ferry passenger services exist. Aran Island Ferries[16] operate a year-round service from Rossaveal in County Galway, connected by a bus service from Galway city. A heavy-cargo service operates several times a week from Galway Harbour, and is operated by Lasta Mara.[17]

Aer Arann Islands operates an air service from Inverin to Inishmore Airport, which has a connecting bus from Galway city. The airline announced that it would cease all flights in December 2018,[18] but an agreement was reached to continue the service until 30 September 2019.[19]

Ferries are also available to the Aran Islands from Doolin in County Clare (seasonal 1 April – 31 October).

A road network exists on each of the islands, and a speed limit of 50 km/h (31 mph) applies. Cars on the islands are exempt from road-worthiness testing. Most visitors to the island hire bikes, as they are the most convenient way to see the islands.[20]

Road in Inishmore

Tourism

Visitors and attractions
Inishmore

Visitors come in large numbers, particularly in the summer. Several Bronze Age and Iron Age forts and attractions are on the islands:

  • Dun Aengus (Dún Aonghasa, Aran Islands Dialect: dūn aŋgəs) is a Bronze Age and Iron Age fort on the edge of a 100 metres (330 ft) cliff overlooking the Atlantic Ocean on Inishmore. It consists of a series of concentric circular walls. The innermost—the citadel—encloses an area approximately 50 metres (160 feet) in diameter with 4-metre (13-foot) thick walls of stone.[21]
  • Black Fort (Dún Dúchathair)
  • O'Brien's Castle on Inis Oírr in the Aran Islands was built in the 14th century. The castle was taken from the O'Briens by the O'Flaherty clan of Connemara in 1582.
  • Teampull Bheanáin is considered the smallest church in the world, and is notable for its orientation: north–south instead of east–west.
  • Teampall an Cheathrair Álainn has a holy well, which inspired J. M. Synge's play The Well of the Saints.

Arts

Local artists

One of the major figures of the Irish Renaissance, Liam O'Flaherty, was born in Gort na gCapall, Inishmore, on 28 August 1896. Máirtín Ó Díreáin, one of the most eminent poets in the Irish language, was also from Inishmore. Since 2000, Áras Éanna Arts Centre, Inisheer, has been welcoming artists in residence, both local and international, to stay and work on the inspirational Aran Islands for periods of one month. Clíodhna Lyons, born on the islands, is an Irish cartoonist, animator, and printmaker, who has created several comics and 'zines and is now a director for Brown Bag Films.

Visiting artists

View of Inishmore coastline.

The islands have had an influence on world literature and arts disproportionate to their size. From 1908, Harry Clarke spent a number of weeks each summer for six years on Inis Oírr, accompanied by friends and his future wife, Margaret Clarke (artist). Sketches by and of Clarke exist from these trips, regarded as formative in his upbringing, as they marked the first occasions in which convalescing off the mainland of Ireland was necessary for the artist.

The unusual cultural and physical history of the islands has made them the object of visits by a variety of writers and travelers who recorded their experiences. Beginning around the late 19th century, many Irish writers traveled to the Aran Islands; Lady Gregory, for example, came to Aran in the late 19th century to learn Irish. At the start of the 20th century and throughout his life, one of Ireland's leading artists, Seán Keating, spent time every year on the islands translating onto canvas all the qualities that make the inhabitants of these Atlantic Islands so unusual and in many respects remarkable. Elizabeth Rivers moved from London and lived in Aran, where she created two books of art and was herself visited by artists such as Basil Rakoczi.

Many wrote of their experiences in a personal vein, alternately casting them as narratives about finding, or failing to find, some essential aspect of Irish culture that had been lost to the more urban regions of Ireland. A second, related kind of visitor was those who attempted to collect and catalogue the stories and folklore of the island, treating it as a kind of societal "time capsule" of an earlier stage of Irish culture. Visitors of this kind differed in their desires to integrate with the island culture, and most were content to be considered observers. The culmination of this mode of interacting with the island might well be Robert J. Flaherty's 1934 classic documentary Man of Aran, which was critically acclaimed by the Nazi Party. The film's depiction of man's courage and repudiation of the intellect appealed to the Nazis, who noticed it during the Berlin Festival in 1935.

One might consider John Millington Synge's The Aran Islands as a work that straddles these first two modes, it being both a personal account and also an attempt at preserving information about the pre- (or il-) literate Aran culture in literary form. The motivations of these visitors are exemplified by W. B. Yeats' advice to Synge: "Go to the Aran Islands, and find a life that has never been expressed in literature."[22]

In the second half of the 20th century, until perhaps the early 1970s,a third kind of visitor came to the islands. They came not necessarily because of the uniquely "Irish" nature of the island community, but simply because the accidents of geography and history conspired to produce a society that some found intriguing or even beguiling, and they wished to participate in it directly. At no time was there a single "Aran" culture; any description is necessarily incomplete and can be said to apply completely only to "parts" of the island at certain points in time. Visitors who came and stayed, though, were mainly attracted to aspects of Aran culture such as:

  1. It was isolated from mainstream print and electronic media, thus reliant primarily on local oral tradition for both entertainment and news.
  2. Rarely visited or understood by outsiders
  3. Strongly influenced in its traditions and attitudes by the unusually savage weather of Galway Bay
  4. In many parts, it was characterised by subsistence, or near-subsistence, farming and fishing.
  5. It was adapted to the absence of luxuries that many parts of the Western world had enjoyed for decades, and in some cases, centuries.

For these reasons, the Aran Islands were "decoupled" from cultural developments that were at the same time radically changing other parts of Ireland and Western Europe. Though visitors of this third kind understood that the culture they encountered was intimately connected to that of Ireland, they were not particularly inclined to interpret their experiences as those of "Irishness". Instead, they looked directly towards ways in which their time on the islands put them in touch with more general truths about life and human relations, and they often took pains to live "as an islander", eschewing help from friends and family at home. Indeed, because of the difficult conditions they found—dangerous weather, scarce food—they sometimes had little time to investigate the culture in the more detached manner of earlier visitors. Their writings are often of a more personal nature, being concerned with understanding the author's self as much as the culture around him.

This third mode of being in Aran died out in the late 1970s due in part to the increased tourist traffic and in part to technological improvements made to the island, that relegated the above aspects to history. A literary product of this third kind of visitor is An Aran Keening,[23] by Andrew McNeillie, who spent a year on Aran in 1968. Another, Pádraig Ó Síocháin, a Dublin author and lawyer, learning to speak Gaelic to the fluency of an islander, became inextricably linked to the Aran handknitters and their Aran sweaters, extensively promoting their popularity and sale around the world for nearly forty years.

A fourth kind of visitor to the islands, still prominent today, comes for spiritual reasons often connected to an appreciation for Celtic Christianity or more modern New Age beliefs, the former of which finds sites and landscapes of importance on the islands. Finally, many thousands of visitors come for broadly touristic reasons, to see the ruins, hear Irish spoken (and Irish music played) in the few pubs on the island, and to experience the often awe-inspiring geology of cliffs. Tourists today far outnumber visitors of the four kinds discussed above. Tourists and visitors of the fourth kind, however, are under-represented as creators of literature or art directly connected to the island; few are ordinary "travelogues" of note, perhaps because of the small size of the islands, and no personal accounts are written about Aran that are primarily concerned with spirituality. Tim Robinson's Stones of Aran: Pilgrimage (1986) and Stones of Aran: Labyrinth (1995), and his accompanying detailed map of the islands, are another resource on the Aran Islands. Robinson's work is an exhaustive, but not exhausting, survey of the Aran geography and its influence on Aran culture from the Iron Age to recent times. Robinson also has written, and continues to write, about the Connemara region that faces the Aran Islands on the Galway mainland.

Island crafts
The wreck of the Plassey sits on the shore of Inisheer, one of the Aran Islands. Fishing is a small but important part of the area's economy.

Aran Island sweater
Main article: Aran sweater

The islands are the home of the Aran sweater, which gained worldwide appeal during the 20th century.[24][25] Many of the sweaters sold in the islands are made elsewhere in Ireland.[26]

Aran currach

The (modern) Aran version of the lightweight boat called the currach (Aran Islands Dialect: kørəx, korəx) is made from canvas stretched over a sparse skeleton of thin laths, then covered in tar. It is designed to withstand the very rough seas that are typical of islands that face the open Atlantic. Indeed, the Aran fishermen are said to not learn to swim, since they would certainly not survive any sea that swamped a currach, so it would be better to drown quickly. Despite the undoubted strength of these boats, they are very vulnerable to puncture.

The islanders were always totally self-sufficient. In calmer weather, the currachs would go out and spend the night fishing under the Cliffs of Moher, returning after dawn full with fish. Nowadays, they are only used inshore, tending lobster pots. More modern versions are still built for racing at the many local regattas, or cruinnithe up and down the west coast of Ireland during the summer.

Conventional shoes cannot be worn, so the fishermen wear soft calf-skin moccasins called pampooties, made of goatskin, calfskin, or cowhide.

Sport

Some of the limestone sea cliffs have attracted interest from rock-climbers.

GAA sports such as Gaelic football, hurling, and Irish handball are the islands' main sports.

The annual Red Bull cliff-diving world championships are held on Inis mór every year.

  • John Millington Synge wrote a book-length journal, The Aran Islands, completed in 1901 and published in 1907.
  • The Aran Islands are mentioned in James Joyce's short story "The Dead" (1914) as a place where native Irish is spoken.
  • The 1934 documentary film Man of Aran
  • Gilbert Bécaud's two-act L'Opéra d'Aran (1962) features a plot taking place on the Aran Islands.
  • Seamus Heaney's first book of poems, Death of a Naturalist (1966), contains a poem entitled "Lovers on Aran".
  • The 1984 hit song "The Riddle" by Nik Kershaw includes the line, "Near a tree by a river there's a hole in the ground where an old man of Aran goes around and around." The writer, however, is on record as having said that he simply made this up; it does not actually refer to anything connected with the Aran Islands.
  • The Aran Islands featured in the television comedy Father Ted from 1995 to 1998, set on the fictional Craggy Island, with real local sights such as the shipwreck of the steam trawler MV Plassey in the opening sequence. The island of Inishmore hosted a Friends of Ted festival in 2007.
  • The 1996 play, The Cripple of Inishmaan, by Martin McDonagh, is set on the Aran Islands. The play is the first in the Aran Islands Trilogy, followed in 2001 by The Lieutenant of Inishmore, and the unpublished The Banshees of Inisheer.
  • The 1997 romantic comedy The MatchMaker with Janeane Garofalo is partially set on the Aran Islands.
  • The 2000 song "El pozo de Aran" by Galician Celtic musician Carlos Núñez, with lead vocals by Portuguese singer Anabela, is about a mother's pilgrimage to a holy well in the islands to heal her sickly child.
  • The 2010 film Leap Year was partially filmed on Inis Mór.
  • The songs from the album Man of Aran by the group British Sea Power all relate to the Aran Islands.
  • In the pilot episode of Talking Tom and Friends, Talking Hank mentions a show set in the Aran Islands.[27]

See also

References
  1. The official Irish name for the large island is Árainn, but the British Ordnance Survey, when surveying the landscape of west Ireland, invented the name Inishmore for the largest island, probably to avoid confusion with Aran Island in County Donegal. Inis Mór the commonly gaelicised form of this new name, has gained widespread acceptance.
  2. "Western Stone Forts", The Heritage Council
  3. John Healy (1902). Insula sanctorum et doctorum; or, Ireland's ancient schools and scholars (4th ed.). Benzinger. p. 164.
  4. Handbook for travellers in Ireland (2nd ed.). John Murray. 1866. p. 173.
  5. Harbison, Peter (1995-04-01). Pilgrimage in Ireland: The Monuments and the People. Syracuse University Press. ISBN 978-0-8156-0312-2
  6. "Eight incredible things you didn't know about Ireland's Aran Islands", Irish Post, June 29, 2017
  7. "Leaving the “dreadful rocks”, History Ireland, Vol.7, Issue 2 (Summer 1999)
  8. Her, T.H., "Introduction to the Plays", Synge: The Complete Plays, Methuen. 1963
  9. Greene, David H. & Stephens, Edward M. "J.M. Synge 1871–1909" (The MacMillan Company New York 1959)
  10. McCarthy, Andrew. "The ‘New York Times’ came to the Aran Islands. Here’s what it found", The Irish Times, September 13, 2018
  11. Mooney, Chris (23 January 2018). "Storm waves moved this 620-ton boulder, scientists say — a stunning testament to the ocean's power". The Washington Post. Retrieved 7 January 2021.
  12. Cox, Rónadh; Jahn, Kalle L.; Watkins, Oona G.; Cox, Peter (February 2018). "Extraordinary boulder transport by storm waves (west of Ireland, winter 2013–2014), and criteria for analysing coastal boulder deposits". Earth-Science Reviews. 177: 623–636. doi:10.1016/j.earscirev.2017.12.014. ISSN 0012-8252.
  13. Éireann, Met. "Met Éireann – The Irish Weather Service". met.ie.
  14. Webb, D. A. (1961–1963). "Noteworthy Plants of the Burren: A Catalogue Raisonné". Proceedings of the Royal Irish Academy, Section B. Royal Irish Academy. 62: 117–34. ISSN 0035-8983. JSTOR 20494847.
  15. Elisabeth Mann Borgese (1980). Seafarm: the story of aquaculture. H. N. Abrams. p. 105. ISBN 978-0-8109-1604-3.
  16. "Aran Island Ferries". aranislandferries.com.
  17. "Home". lastamarateo.com.
  18. Siggins, Lorna (6 June 2018). "Aer Arann to quit contract for Aran Islands two years ahead of time". The Irish Times. Retrieved 2 September 2018.
  19. "Agreement reached in Aer Arann dispute". 20 December 2018. Retrieved 12 March 2020 – via www.rte.ie. Cite journal requires |journal= (help)
  20. "Inis Mor Bike Hire". www.inishmorebikehire.ie. Archived from the original on 20 May 2016. Retrieved 12 March 2020.
  21. "Inis Mor Bike Hire – Aran Islands Bike Hire -". dunaonghasa.com. Archived from the original on 1 August 2015. Retrieved 20 June 2020.
  22. John Millington Synge (1906). The Aran Islands. [S.l.]: Maunsel & Roberts.
  23. "Archived copy". Archived from the original on 23 February 2002. Retrieved 30 June 2004.CS1 maint: archived copy as title (link)
  24. Corrigan, Vawn (2019). Irish Aran, History, Tradition, Fashion. O'Brien Press. http://www.obrien.ie/irish-aran
  25. A Journey Into Ireland's Literary Revival by R. Todd Felton, page 54
  26. Morris, Johnny (18 March 2006). "Grail Trail". The Telegraph. London. Retrieved 24 February 2007..
  27. "Talking Tom and Friends - The Audition (episode 0)". Talking Tom and Friends. YouTube. 23 December 2014. Retrieved 5 October 2017.

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