Sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics – Qualification

There are 40 quota spots available for sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics (postponed to 2021[1] due to the COVID-19 pandemic). Each National Olympic Committee (NOC) can obtain a maximum of 2 spots in each event (total 4 maximum across the 2 events). Each event will have 20 competitors qualify: 18 from qualifying, 1 from the host (Japan), and 1 from Tripartite Commission invitations.[2]

Sport climbing at the
2020 Summer Olympics
Qualification
Individualmenwomen

Timeline
EventDate[3]Venue
IFSC Combined World ChampionshipsAugust 11–22, 2019 Hachioji
World Olympic Qualifying EventNovember 28 – December 1, 2019 Toulouse
Pan American Olympic Qualifying EventFebruary 24 – March 1, 2020 Los Angeles[4]
European ChampionshipsNovember 19–29, 2020[5] Moscow[6]
Asian ChampionshipCancelled[7] Morioka[6]
Xiamen[8]
African ChampionshipsDecember 17–20, 2020[9] Cape Town[6]
Oceania ChampionshipsDecember 19–20, 2020[10] Sydney[6]

The European, African, Oceania and Asian Championships were postponed due to the COVID-19 pandemic.[11][12] The Asian Championship was later cancelled due to travel restrictions in Asian countries resulting from the pandemic.[7]

Qualification

Japan, as the host, was guaranteed at least one place. Initially the rules were interpreted such that this spot would only be used if no Japanese athlete would manage to qualify through the other qualifying events.[13]

The first qualifying opportunity was the Combined World Championship, where the top seven finishers earned one quota place.[6] Since four Japanese climbers qualified during this event (two male, two female), the unused Host Country Place went to the next highest placed climber in the Combined World Championships who is not yet qualified and doesn't come from a country with 2 climbers already qualified.[14]

The second opportunity, the Olympic Qualifying Event featured the next 22 ranked athletes in the World Cup standings who had not yet received an Olympic invitation; of these, the top six qualified for the Olympic Games.[15]

Between February and May 2020 each continent was to host a Continental Combined Championship, with the best finisher who is not already qualified earning a quota spot. Only the Pan-American Championships was held before the coronavirus pandemic halted competition. In February 2020, to address potential cancellations of continental championships due to the pandemic, IFSC updated the qualification guidelines to read, "Unused quota from any Continental Championship, will be reallocated to the next highest placed athlete from the relevant continent, not yet qualified, in the Combined World Championships 2019, respecting the maximum quota per gender per NOC."[16]

With the IFSC Climbing Asian Championships cancelled, Jongwon Chon and Seo Chae-hyun, both of South Korea, are the qualifiers.[7][17]

The Tripartite Commission invitation was to be allocated after the continental championships, but the deadline was missed, and places were awarded to the next highest qualified eligible finishers at 2019 World Championships.[18][19]

Selection

After athletes qualify, they are allocated a quota space by the international federation, which must be confirmed by their National Olympic Committee (NOC).[19] In some cases the NOC might choose not to use a quota place in order to decide who fills the quota at a later date. During the Combined World Championships Japanese climbers Akiyo Noguchi, Miho Nonaka, Tomoa Narasaki and Kai Harada earned a quota place, but only Noguchi and Narasaki were subsequently confirmed to qualify for the Olympics.[6][20] Later the IFSC and the Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association (JMSCA) confirmed both Nonaka and Harada as Olympic-qualified athletes.[15][21]

In November 2019 the Japanese Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association (JMSCA) opened a lawsuit against the IFSC related to uncertainties in the qualification system and how the 'host place' qualification could be used. Associated rule changes also affected selection pathways for athletes from other countries.[14] However, the Court for Arbitration in Sport (CAS) dismissed the suit in December 2020.[22]

Qualified countries
NOCMenWomenTotal
 Australia112
 Austria112
 Canada112
 China112
 Czech Republic11
 France224
 Germany22
 Great Britain11
 Italy213
 Japan224
 Kazakhstan11
 Poland11
 Russia†123
 Slovenia22
 South Africa112
 South Korea112
 Spain11
 Switzerland11
 United States224
Total: 19 NOCs202040
† "Russian athletes not implicated in doping are expected to be allowed to compete in the Olympics and other world championships, but only under a neutral flag."[23]

Qualified athletes
StandardPlacesMen'sWomen's
Host place 1  Kai Harada (JPN)[21]  Miho Nonaka (JPN)[21]
World Championship 7  Tomoa Narasaki (JPN)
 Jakob Schubert (AUT)
 Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ)
 Mickaël Mawem (FRA)
 Alex Megos (GER)
 Ludovico Fossali (ITA)
 Sean McColl (CAN)		  Janja Garnbret (SLO)
 Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)[24]
 Shauna Coxsey (GBR)
 Aleksandra Mirosław (POL)
 Petra Klingler (SUI)
 Brooke Raboutou (USA)
 Jessica Pilz (AUT)
Olympic Qualifying Event 6  Adam Ondra (CZE)
 Bassa Mawem (FRA)
 Jan Hojer (GER)
 Pan Yufei (CHN)
 Alberto Ginés López (ESP)
 Nathaniel Coleman (USA)		  Julia Chanourdie (FRA)
 Mia Krampl (SLO)
 Iuliia Kaplina (RUS)
 Kyra Condie (USA)
 Laura Rogora (ITA)
 Song Yiling (CHN)
Pan American Championships1 Colin Duffy (USA) Alannah Yip (CAN)
African Championships1 Christopher Cosser (RSA) Erin Sterkenburg (RSA)
European Championships1 Aleksei Rubtsov (RUS) Viktoriia Meshkova (RUS)
Oceania Championships1 Tom O'Halloran (AUS)  Oceania Mackenzie (AUS)
Asian Championships0‡——
Tripartite Commission0‡——
Reallocation2 Chon Jong-won (KOR)[7][17]
 Michael Piccolruaz (ITA)[18]		 Seo Chae-hyun (KOR)[7][17]
 Anouck Jaubert (FRA)[18]
Total20
‡ These slots were reallocated due to the Asian Championship being cancelled and the Tripartite Commission missing the deadline.

References
  1. "Joint Statement from the International Olympic Committee and the Tokyo 2020 Organising Committee". olympic.org (press release). International Olympic Committee. 24 March 2020. Archived from the original on 19 April 2020. Retrieved 26 January 2021.
  2. Qualification System – Games of the XXXII Olympiad – Sport climbing; International Federation of Sport Climbing, 15 March 2018
  3. "IFSC Tokyo 2020". Retrieved 8 January 2020.
  4. "2019-2020 Pan-American Events Announced". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 25 February 2020.
  5. "IFSC EUROPE - CONTINENTAL CHAMPIONSHIPS (B,S,L,C) - MOSCOW (RUS) 2020". www.ifsc-climbing.org. IFSC. Retrieved 22 September 2020.
  6. "Where do we stand on Tokyo 2020 Olympic qualification in sport climbing?". Olympic Channel.
  7. "IFSC ASIAN CHAMPIONSHIPS IN XIAMEN CANCELLED". aroundtherings.com. 14 December 2020. Retrieved 14 December 2020.
  8. "IFSC ASIA - CONTINENTAL CHAMPIONSHIPS (C) - XIAMEN (CHN) 09 - 13 DECEMBER 2020". www.ifsc-climbing.org. IFSC.
  9. "IFSC AFRICA - CONTINENTAL CHAMPIONSHIPS (C) 2020 09 - 13 DECEMBER 2020". www.ifsc-climbing.org. IFSC.
  10. "IFSC OCEANIA - CONTINENTAL CHAMPIONSHIPS (C) - SYDNEY (AUS) 2020 18 - 20 DECEMBER 2020". www.ifsc-climbing.org. IFSC.
  11. "European Climbing Championships and Boulder World Cup postponed". Planetmountain. 15 March 2020.
  12. "Update on IFSC Competitions". IFSC. 13 March 2020. Retrieved 20 March 2020.
  13. "Last Olympic sport climbing spots assigned against Japan's wishes". The Japan Times. 13 December 2020. Retrieved 13 December 2020.
  14. Natalie Berry (November 8, 2019). "Japanese Federation sues IFSC, Olympic Selection Rule Changes Confuse". UK Climbing.
  15. Natalie Berry (November 21, 2019). "IFSC Releases Toulouse Combined Qualifier Startlist". UK Climbing.
  16. "QUALIFICATION SYSTEM – GAMES OF THE XXXII OLYMPIAD – TOKYO 2020" (PDF) (Press release). International Federation of Sport Climbing. 28 February 2020.
  17. Corrigan, Kevin (4 March 2020). "IFSC Announces Coronavirus Contingency Plan for Asian Championship Olympic Qualification Spots". Climbing.
  18. "France's Jaubert and Italy's Piccolruaz earn ticket for Tokyo 2020". www.ifsc-climbing.org. IFSC. 30 April 2020. Retrieved 1 May 2020.
  19. "Qualification system" (PDF). www.ifsc-climbing.org. 1 February 2019. Retrieved 2019-08-20.
  20. John Burgman (August 21, 2019). "Highs and Lows: 2019 Climbing World Championships". Climbing.com.
  21. "Confirmed qualified athletes". www.ifsc-climbing.org. IFSC. 4 November 2019. Retrieved 25 November 2019.
  22. "Last Olympic sport climbing spots assigned against Japan's wishes". The Japan Times. 13 December 2020. Retrieved 14 December 2020.
  23. Tariq Panja (December 9, 2019). "Russia Banned From Olympics and Global Sports for 4 Years Over Doping". The New York Times.
  24. "Sport climbing: Japan's Noguchi earns Tokyo Olympic berth with world silver". The Mainichi. 21 August 2019.
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