Lush (company)

Lush is a British cosmetics retailer, which is headquartered in Poole, United Kingdom. It was founded in 1995 by trichologist Mark Constantine, his wife Mo Constantine, Liz Bennett, Rowena Bird, Helen Ambrosen, and Paul Greeves. Lush has over 951 stores globally.

Lush Cosmetics
TypePrivate
IndustryCosmetics
Founded12 November 1995 (1995-11-12)[1]
FoundersMark and Mo Constantine, Liz Weir, Helen Ambrosen, Rowena Bird and Paul Greaves
Headquarters
Poole, Dorset, UK
Number of locations
951 stores (2020)
ProductsSkin care
Websitewww.lush.com

It produces and sells creams, soaps, shampoos, shower gels, lotions, moisturisers, scrubs, masks, and other cosmetics for the face, hair, and body using only vegetarian recipes, 85% of which are also vegan. The company operates stores in 52 countries globally, with most locations located in the USA, as well as production facilities (called "kitchens") located in the United Kingdom, Canada, Croatia, Germany, and Australia.

History

Early years
The original Lush store, located in Poole, Dorset, UK. The store also houses a Lush Spa, accessed via the door on the left.

The origins of Lush can be traced back to co-founders Mark Constantine and Liz Weir meeting in the 1970s, and subsequently setting up a cosmetics business. Constantine had an interest in theatrical makeup while growing up, but opted to begin training as a hairdresser. During his first year of training, Constantine became homeless at the age of sixteen. Frank Woodsford, an acquaintance of Constantine's, was involved with The Gordon Boys’ Messenger Corps and arranged for Constantine to receive a monthly allowance from the charity, so he could rent a room and continue with his hairdressing apprenticeship.[2] After completing his training, Constantine began working for Elizabeth Arden in London. He trained as a Trichologist at The Ginger Group, and also worked as a consultant for Beauty Without Cruelty.[3] Constantine began working at Marc Young's Beauty Salon in Poole, where he met Liz Weir who was freelancing at the salon as a beauty therapist. Weir's contract was up for renewal in 1976, and she and Constantine decided to start their own business. Constantine & Weir sold natural hair and beauty products.[2]

In 1978, Mark Constantine wrote Herbal Hair Colouring: a book published by The Herb Society that comprised five years of research into natural hair dyes.[4] This was partially in response to a story published in 1975 by Professor Bruce Ames, which showed that a majority of commercial hair dyes on the American market were mutagenic,[5] and follow-up studies that showed permanent hair dye ingredients having carcinogenic effects in animals.[6] Lush continues to advocate the use of henna,[7] which they sell in a patented brick format.[8]

In 1987, Constantine read about Anita Roddick and her new venture The Body Shop in Honey magazine, and has stated in interviews he thought they were like-minded.[9] He then rang Roddick to introduce himself and discuss the possibility of working together. After the meeting, Roddick placed an initial order of £1,572.75. Constantine & Weir became a major supplier to The Body Shop and developed a number of recipes for bath and beauty products until Roddick was advised to take more products in-house after the business went public in 1984. The Body Shop paid Constantine & Weir £9 million for the manufacturing rights.[10] Both co-founders signed a non-compete that meant they were not legally allowed to open any retail stores on the UK high street until 1994.[11]

Creation of Lush

In 1995, Constantine and Weir, along with Mo Constantine, Helen Ambrosen, Rowena Bird and Paul Greaves from Cosmetics-to-Go, opened a cosmetics shop on High Street in Poole, creating cosmetics from freshly purchased fruits and vegetables.[12] The company's name was chosen after a customer competition in the store's newsletter.[12] Jo Evans joined the business in 1994, shortly before Lush was given a name. Evans was responsible for a number of implementations early on in Lush's history, including the design and layout of the stores in the mid-1990s. She designed the original bold green and yellow Lush logo, and also the handwriting used on Lush products. Lush's signature font is still used today. In 1996, the co-founder's ethical approach to cosmetics led to the publication of the "We Believe" statement.[13]

Lush soon expanded from its one-store setup in Dorset, opening two new stores in London. The first was in Covent Garden and a second on Kings Road.[14] The stores themselves were recognised for their unique designs. The Evening Times likened its London stores to French delis and the soap displays in-store took inspiration from cheese shops. While product design was seen as innovative, so were the ingredients they used, focusing on fresh smells and scents by using herbs, fruits, vegetables, and oils.[15]

The cosmetics company quickly expanded into other countries, with one of the first stores opening in Croatia. The move came after Slavica Ćaleta had visited the Kings Road store in London shortly after it had opened in 1996. She subsequently agreed to open Lush's first store in her home country of Croatia.[16][17] Other stores soon followed, with the first store in Australia in 1997.[18] The expansion also included Brazil and Ireland, with the first South American store in 1999 and a store in Dublin in 2000.[19][20]

During this period of expansion, Lush began to grow its range of products. All the co-founders played a part in creating innovative cosmetic products. From 1995 onwards, the products were listed in "The Lush Times," a newspaper-style catalogue that was released quarterly from foundation until 2013. In the 1990s, Dream Cream was first released and quickly became one of the company's best-sellers due to its neutralising effects on skin soreness and irritation.[21][22] In 1998, Helen Ambrosen produced Lush's first henna product, a take on the hair dye which has been used for thousands of years. Unlike other henna products on the market, Les Cacas was in brick-form and 100% natural henna hair colouring.[23] Ambrosen also developed the solid bubble bars around this time.[24]

By 2004, Lush had grown its turnover to £69 million and expected to reach £100 million in sales during the same year. Lush had also diversified away from operating solely in the United Kingdom, with 205 stores overseas.[25] Lush celebrated its 10th anniversary in 2005, by which point it had a range of innovative cosmetic products like shower jellies, buttercreams, and temple balms.[26]

Recent history

In 2010, Lush launched Gorilla Perfume, which was a collaboration between perfumers Mark Constantine and his son Simon Constantine. Both Simon and Mark wanted to create a fragrance brand, which was developed in-house, unlike the model of sourcing perfumes from an external source.[27] The fragrances were launched at a gallery event in Soho, London.[28] Each fragrance was given its own room and design so visitors could sample each scent as an immersive experience. Over the coming years, there would be periodic releases of fragrances, which Lush referred to as "volumes".[29]

In December 2010, Mark and Mo Constantine were awarded the OBE in the New Year's Honours list, for services to the beauty industry.[30] 2018 saw UK recruitment website Indeed, name Lush as the UK's seventh best private sector employer,[31] based on millions of employee ratings and reviews.[32] In March 2019, the company introduced the Lush Labs app, which uses machine learning and artificial intelligence to reduce wasteful packaging.[33]

In 2014, Gorilla perfume opened its own standalone store in Islington, London.[34] Later that year, the third volume of Gorilla perfumes was released at an event in Soho.[29]

Gorilla perfumes have long been closely connected to the Constantine family, mainly due to Mark and Simon's involvement. They can be traced back to when Mark and Simon Constantine created their first perfume together called "Dear John," a tribute to Mark's absent father, which has released in 2004. The fragrance was released at Lush's sister store, B Never Too Busy To Be Beautiful, and later became part of Volume 3 of the perfume range.

Mark Constantine created the fragrance "Dear John" in 2004, naming it after his father. Personal circumstances meant Mark didn't know his father until they were reunited in South Africa a number of years ago, which led to the creation of Mark's biography, "Dear John: The Road To Pelindaba".[35]

COVID-19 pandemic response

At the beginning of the COVID-19 pandemic, Lush offered the public free handwashing in all its stores as a means to help slow down the spread of the virus.[36] However, on 16 March 2020 Lush closed all North American stores but continued to pay staff, with stores in Australia closing four days later and those in the UK closing on 21 March.[37][38][39][40] Later in March, the company announced it was laying off staff in Canada due to the impact that the pandemic was having on its operation, facing a future with a "much smaller business".[41]

Business structure

Lush is a privately owned company with a small number of shares available on an invitation basis only.[42] The cosmetics company was launched in 1995, with expansion outside the United Kingdom beginning almost immediately. The company operates in 49 countries, with approximately 20% of its stores located in the USA.[43] In 2019, the largest Lush store was opened in Church Street, Liverpool. The 1,380m2 store features a florist, hair salon, perfume library and a spa.[44]

Many of the global operations outside the UK were founded via joint venture agreements between Lush and third parties.[45] In 1996, a joint venture agreement was signed to expand the cosmetics operation to North America. This began by opening stores in Canada and six years after the initial move into the North American market, Lush opened its first store in the United States.[46] A similar arrangement saw the launch of Lush Australia in 1997 when the first store opened in the country.[47]

The company follows a "no advertising policy" in which the company does not spend money on TV campaigns or celebrity endorsements and instead relies heavily on user-generated content.[48] However, the company partnered with drag queens from RuPaul's Drag Race; Kim Chi, Detox, and Shea Couleé, during the Holiday season of 2018 to create photo campaigns for their new products.[49] Products can also be advertised through staff engaging in "random acts of kindness" where they are allowed to give away products to customers in need of cheering up, are celebrating a special occasion, they have a good relationship with or other reasons.[50] Lush states that it does not have a target demographic, and that as a brand it is "trying to make [its] stores welcoming to all".[51]

Boxing Day sales

The company does not partake in Black Friday sales but instead hosts its only sale of the year on Boxing Day. The sale at times will differ from the country that the store is located, as in 2018 the North American stores and website featured a "Buy One, Get One" seasonal sale, and the UK stores hosted a 50% seasonal items sale.[52] The change began in 2017, when the company attempted to not have an online Boxing Day sale at all, which led to major backlash.[53]

Products
Lush shampoo bars on display
Lush shower jellies

In 1989, Mo Constantine created the world's first bath bomb.[54] Prior to the launch of Lush, Mark and Mo Constantine began discussions with Jeff Brown, Dr. Malcolm Stuart, and Steven Smalls about the development of a bathing product, wanting to create a bath-based product that could be used by individuals who suffer from skin irritation and other conditions such as UTIs.[54] During that consultancy period, the manufacture of alka seltzers was discussed. Mo Constantine took inspiration from this conversation and created a product now known as a bath bomb in her garden shed.[55] Bath bombs were part of the core product range when Lush was founded in 1995, and Butterball is the longest-standing.[54] Since then the basic bath bomb has evolved to include multi-layered designs. One such example is the "Goddess" bath bomb that was inspired by Ariana Grande's song, God is a Woman.[56][57]

Prior to the foundation of Lush, all the co-founders had worked with hair dye and henna. When Cosmetics-to-Go was formed, the co-founders began to consider the option of supplying The Body Shop with henna products. The Really Cookin' range in the early 1990s allowed a new market to access henna,[7] which led to henna products becoming a part of Lush's product range from 1998 onwards. Co-founder Helen Ambrosen innovated the henna Lush range when she invented the henna brick, a solid form to replace the less appealing paste products that were commonly used in the beauty industry.[58] Initially, four brick colours were launched - Rouge, Brun, Marron, and Noir.[7]

Lush produces creams, soaps, shampoos, shower gels, lotions, moisturisers, scrubs, toothpaste tablets, masks and other cosmetics for the face, hair, and body using only vegetarian or vegan recipes. In 2016, Lush produced 41 million products, of which 13.3 million were bath bombs,[59] which are solid spheres of sodium bicarbonate, citric acid, essential oils and natural butters that fizz out when dropped in water, and can produce an array of colours and fragrances. As of July 2012, Lush began selling their "Emotional Brilliance" makeup collection, which includes liquid lipsticks, liquid eyeliners, and cream shadows.[60] Lush also launched their first mascara, Eyes Right, under the "Emotional Brilliance" line.[61]

Lush products are made in factories or "kitchens" as the staff calls them, around the world including Poole, Dorset; Toronto, and Vancouver Canada; Zagreb, Croatia; Düsseldorf, Germany; and Australia.[62] Most Lush products are to be stored at room temperature, with the exception of their Fresh Face Masks, which require refrigeration due to the absence of preservatives and the main ingredients being fruits and vegetables.[63] Stores do not typically sell products older than four or five months and most products have a shelf life of approximately 14 months, depending on the particular item.[64]

One of the brand's most popular products is the Mask of Magnaminty, a facial treatment that is applied as a mask before washing off. The product has been part of the Lush range for decades, and today is still recognised as an important product. In 2019, Cosmopolitan stated the mask was top of its review of Lush face masks. Rosy Cheeks and Fomo Jelly were second and third on the list.[65]

In-store catalogues were previously titled as the Lush Times and were produced in a newspaper-style format.[66]

Ingredients and ethics

Lush does not buy from companies that carry out, fund, or commission any animal testing.[67][68] They test their products on human volunteers and have become known for their campaigning.[69]

The founders have been involved in cruelty-free cosmetics throughout their careers. Two of the founders, Liz Weir and Mark Constantine, began in 1977 when they launched a treatment business, Constantine and Weir.[70] In the 1980s, the founders worked with Cruelty Free International (previously known as BUAV), with the aim of developing an ethical testing standard, specifically for cosmetic companies.[71] The project with Cruelty Free International was a success and led to the creation of a cruelty-free standard still used today in the field of cosmetics.[71]

Since the foundation of Lush, the company has taken a number of strong stances against animal testing and cruelty. Lush stipulate that they will not knowingly purchase from suppliers or supply chains that have been party to animal testing in any way, including the testing of raw materials on animals.[72] This strong stance against different forms of animal testing has meant that there are some countries where Lush refuses to sell its products.[73] An unavoidable exception to this is REACH legislation, which was implemented by the European Union in 2007. According to their website, Lush campaigned against the guideline until it was passed into law. Since then, Lush encourages its suppliers to test for safety using non-animal testing methods and to fund the development of non-animal test methods.[74][75]

In late 2007, Lush introduced its first palm oil-free soap entitled "Greenwash", utilising a blend of sunflower oil, rapeseed oil and coconut oil.[76][77] Due to the soap's success, the company decided to switch both UK and overseas production from palm oil to this blend,[76][78] significantly reducing the amount of palm oil the company purchases.[79] However, many Lush products continue to contain palm oil, and palm-oil derivatives such as stearic acid, cetostearyl alcohol and sodium stearate.[78][80][81] Since 2017, Lush has campaigned against palm oil associated orangutan habitat destruction in Sumatra,[80] and since 2018 has purchased two plots of land bordering the Leuser Ecosystem on Sumatra to reforest.[82]

Lush products are 100% vegetarian, and 85% of the products are also vegan. They often contain fruits and vegetables such as grapefruit juice, vanilla beans, aloe vera, avocado butter, rosemary oil, fresh papaya, and coconut.[83] However, some products contain lanolin, honey, and/or beeswax. Egg used to be in products but was removed early 2019. Parabens are used to preserve a number of the products.[84]

The preferred testing method of Lush products is on humans or synthetic human cells. This form of testing became more prevalent after XCellR8 won the Lush Prize in 2013.[85] XCellR8 then worked with Lush to further their research and development, with the goal of ending animal testing and replacing it with safer alternatives that have greater scientific merit. Lush's cell testing methods use reconstructed moels of the skin and eye to determine a more accurate summary of the effects of an ingredient. In partnership with XCellR8, Lush has run an outreach programme to encourage other cosmetic companies to undertake similar testing techniques.[86]

Lush focuses on limited packaging for its product range, or package-free products.[87][81] Lush packages many creams in its range in recyclable polypropylene plastic black pots. The company also offers customers a way to recycle used black pots by bringing empty ones back to the store for a free Fresh Face Mask for every five returned.[88]

For the company's national and international experience in sustainable development and eco-friendly products, the Environment Possibility Award conferred the "Award of Earth Defender" to Lush in 2020.[89]

Donations and campaigns
A Lush Charity Pot sold in Russia

In 2006, the REACH legislation was proposed by the European Union and contained legislation that Lush believed would increase animal testing. The cosmetics company wrote to its European customers asking them to send a postcard to MEPs, a move which resulted in 80,000 Lush customers sending postcards. In December 2006, a truck dropped horse manure outside the European Parliament building in Strasbourg, France in protest of the new legislation on animal testing.[90]

The Charity Pot campaign began in 2007, with proceeds from a hand and body lotion of the same name going to small grassroots groups in the form of a grant.[91] Grants range in value up to £10,000, often going to groups that focused on environmental conservation, animal welfare, and human rights.[92] Between 2007 and 2014, Lush has donated more than $33,000,000 to over 2450 grassroots charities in 42 countries,[93] including the campaign to release Guantanamo detainee Shaker Aamer to the UK.[94]

Lush is a supporter of direct action, animal rights operations including Sea Shepherd, a group that works to protect whales, seals, and other aquatic animals.[95] Lush has been a supporter of antitax avoidance grouping UK Uncut.[96]

In 2007, Lush started openly supporting campaigning groups by sending a dozen cheques for £1,000 each, including road protests groups such as Road Block and NoM1Widening, Hacan Clear Skies (anti-aviation group), and Dump the Dump (which is fighting against an incinerator).[97][98] In 2011, Lush supported OneWorld's track Freedom for Palestine, which led to backlash from Israel advocacy groups, such as StandWithUs.[99] Lush has since claimed to support collaboration between the two nations especially in almond farming. It uses both Israel and Palestine as suppliers for almond oil.[100][101] In 2012, Lush had a performance artist endure ten hours of animal testing in the window of their Regent Street store window as part of their 'Fight Animal Testing' campaign.[102]

Lush Cosmetics donated £3.8m to charities in 2014.[103] In 2014, Lush supported the first Hen Harrier Day, with all its UK stores prominently highlighting the illegal persecution of hen harriers on upland grouse moors.[104] The following year it launched Hen Harrier bath bombs to help fund satellite tagging of these raptors.[105]

In Summer 2015, Lush raised £275,000 ($425,000) from the worldwide sale of its "GayIsOK" soap, with funds going to support LBGTI campaigning groups.[106] In 2016, Lush raised £246,000 ($300,000) from the sale of its "Hands of Friendship" soap, with funds going to support Syrian Refugees.[107]

Following the 2019–20 Australian bushfire season and the devastating effects it had on wildlife in the country, Lush launched a Koala-shaoped soap in January 2020. The campaign was titled All The Wild Things, with proceeds from the sales of the soap bars would go to relief efforts aimed for Australian wildlife affected by the bush fires.[108] It was reported in late January that the product had sold out globally.[109]

#Spycops campaign

On 31 May 2018, Lush launched a campaign aimed to highlight previous abuses by undercover police officers in the UK. The company put up window displays in its stores with a mock-up of a police officer in and out of uniform alongside the tag-line "Paid to lie #Spycops". In some stores replica police tape was put on the shopfront windows with: "Police have crossed the line".[110] The campaign attracted immediate criticism from serving officers and members of the public due to its "broad brush" approach which appeared to suggest that police officers were liars and involved in a cover-up.[111] Many notable figures were critical of the campaign by Lush, including Chief Police Officers and the Home Secretary, Sajid Javid.[110] Lush responded to the backlash by stating that the campaign was "not an anti-state/anti-police campaign" and that they were aware "police forces of the UK are doing an increasingly difficult and dangerous job whilst having their funding slashed". They also stated that the campaign was "not about the real police work done by those front line officers who support the public every day – it is about a controversial branch of political undercover policing that ran for many years before being exposed."[112] Lush suspended the window campaign "for the safety of our staff" on 8 June 2018,[113][114] but resumed it on 13 June.[115]

Criticism

In 2015, Lush was criticised for insensitivity when it stocked a new product, Lavender Hill Mob – a brand of incense inspired by the 2011 London Riots, featuring a graphic of a burning building. Lavender Hill itself had been targeted by looters and rioters, but Lush stated that it was "created to emphasise the importance of community".[116]

In July 2018, Lush Australia admitted owing more than 5,000 staff members up to $2 million in back pay. Lush Australia director Peta Granger said staff across the retail and manufacturing businesses have been underpaid since 2010 due to incorrect interpretations of the retail award.[117] In 2020, The Guardian raised concerns about the labour conditions at the Lush kitchen in Sydney, Australia, due to the high rate of injury reported by factory staff.[118] During the August 2020 resurgence of COVID-19 in Auckland, New Zealand, Lush employees were given 48 hours notice that they would not receive pay for the duration of level 3 restrictions when the stores were unable to open, prompting negotiations between Lush and First Union New Zealand. Lush were ineligible for the government wage subsidy for staff, as their revenues had not decreased enough during this period.[119]

See also

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