Pfaffen-Schwabenheim

Pfaffen-Schwabenheim lies on the Appelbach in the district's easternmost corner, just east of the district seat of Bad Kreuznach (and thus east of the Nahe) and 14 km directly south of the Rhine at Bingen's outlying centre of Kempten.

Clockwise from the north, Pfaffen-Schwabenheim's neighbours are the municipalities of Biebelsheim, Zotzenheim, Sprendlingen, Badenheim, Pleitersheim and Volxheim and the town of Bad Kreuznach. Zotzenheim, Sprendlingen and Badenheim all lie in the neighbouring Mainz-Bingen district, whereas all the others likewise lie within the Bad Kreuznach district.

Also belonging to Pfaffen-Schwabenheim is the outlying homestead of Schleifmühle.[2]

The monastic foundation was founded about 1040 by Blessed Eberhard VI of Nellenburg and his mother Hedwig. About 1124, it passed as a dowry for the Nellenburg heiress Hedwig von Mörsberg to the County of Sponheim. In 1130 it was transferred under the terms of the Concordat of Worms to the Archbishop of Mainz, who had it occupied by Augustinian canons. The Schirmvogtei (roughly “protectorate”) was exercised by the line of the Counts of Sponheim who owned Castle Dill at Dill, a village in the Hunsrück. In 1468, the monastery was joined with the Congregation of Windesheim (named after a place of that name near Zwolle in the Netherlands where this branch of the Augustinians established its first monastery). In the course of the Reformation, the abbey was dissolved in 1566, but it was revived in 1697 in the course of Palatinate-Neuburg’s Recatholicization policy and occupied by Augustinian canons from Klausen. Beginning in 1699 under Provost Anton Ignaz von Martels (b. 1669 at Schloss Dankern in Haren; d. 1740 in Pfaffen-Schwabenheim), all the monastery’s former real estate was let to the Electoral Palatinate ecclesiastical landhold administration, and a lively flurry of building activity ensued. The Augustinian canons also provided pastoral care to the neighbouring villages of Badenheim, Ober-Hilbersheim, Sprendlingen, Welgesheim and Zotzenheim. In 1802, the monastery was dissolved in the course of Secularization under Napoleon. At the same time, the pilgrimage to Mary Queen of Peace, which had begun in the mid 18th century, came to an end. In 1808, in the second round of reorganization of the Roman Catholic Diocese of Mainz after the Reichsdeputationshauptschluss, the church passed as a chapel of ease to the parish of Badenheim. With the bull of circumscription, Provida solersque, of 16 August 1821, Pope Pius VII ordered the permanent dissolution of the monastery. Indeed, by 1811, a seniors’ home for retired priests had already been set up in what had been the provostry buildings, and this lasted until 1826. In 1832, the monastery, having by now long stood empty, was, with the exception of the church and the north wing, sold to the municipality, which established a school in the east end of the south wing. In 1833, the whole east and west wings as well as the remaining parts of the south wing were sold again, this time to private owners. In 1972, the pilgrimage to Mary Queen of Peace was revived. Beginning in 1980, the provostry buildings were restored by their private owners. In 2001, there was an extensive restoration to the Baroque part of the monastery church, while in 2013 and 2014, extensive conservational measures were being undertaken on the façade of the Late Romanesque east quire, as were wood preservation measures on the wooden Baroque furnishings.

All the following works are in German:

• Paul-Georg Custodis: Pfaffen-Schwabenheim. Rheinische Kunststätten 501. Rheinischer Verein für Denkmalpflege und Landschaftsschutz, Köln 2008. ISBN 978-3-86526-019-2.
• Georg Dehio: Handbuch der deutschen Kunstdenkmäler, Rheinland-Pfalz und Saarland, München 1982, S. 816-818
• Clemens Jöckle: Pfaffen-Schwabenheim. Kleine Kunstführer Nr. 1355. Verlag Schnell und Steiner, München/Zürich 1982

The council is made up of 16 council members, who were elected by proportional representation at the municipal election held on 7 June 2009, and the honorary mayor as chairman. The municipal election held on 7 June 2009 yielded the following results:[7]

Pfaffen-Schwabenheim's mayor is Hans-Peter Haas (CDU), and his deputies are Michael Simon (SPD), Jörg Zöller (FWG) and Josef Feldhaus (CDU).[8]

The German blazon reads: Das Wappen ist geteilt. In der oberen Hälfte in Silber die Halbfigur eines Augustiner-Mönches in Vorderansicht, beiderseitig begleitet von einem grünen Weinstock. Die untere Hälfte ist in Blau und Gold geschachtet.

The municipality's arms might in English heraldic language be described thus: Per fess argent issuant from the line of partition an Augustinian monk affronty between two grapevines likewise issuant vert, and chequy azure and Or.

The German blazon does not mention the trellises on which the grapevines grow, nor the book that the monk is holding. Indeed, the coat of arms shown at Pfaffen-Schwabenheim's own website shows both in different tinctures to what is seen in this article (the trellises are brown instead of green, and the book is red instead of silver), while the grapevines themselves have leaves. The monk is also shown there with a beard.[9]

The civic arms in this form created by the artist were approved by the Rhineland-Palatinate Ministry of the Interior by a document issued on 10 June 1953. Pfaffen-Schwabenheim belonged in the Middle Ages to the “Further” County of Sponheim, and passed upon its ruling house's extinction in 1473 to joint Electoral Palatinate and Badish rule. From 1707 until the late 18th century, the former was the only overlord. The blue and gold “chequy” pattern in the lower field was passed down with the mark “P–S” (for “Pfaffen-Schwabenheim”) by a court seal from the 17th century (some original stamps from the seal are at the Darmstadt State Archive, while some gypsum stamps can be found at the Mainz State Archive). The upper field is a modern creation, and is canting (see the explanation of the name element “Pfaffen-” under History, above). The whole symbolizes the most important forces that defined the village's history: the Counts of Sponheim and the Augustinian monks, who through their local monastic foundation became indigenous fosterers of culture and at the same time the main promoters of the village's ancient art of winegrowing. The tinctures of the Sponheim arms are confirmed (and indeed are well known). The tinctures that appear in the upper field follow established heraldic norms. The Augustinians wore black habits.[10]

Pfaffen-Schwabenheim fosters partnerships with the following places:[11]

• Spören, Anhalt-Bitterfeld, Saxony-Anhalt since 1991

Spören, together with its outlying centre of Prussendorf, is a Stadtteil of the town of Zörbig. This came about on 1 March 2004 when Spören was amalgamated along with Löberitz, Göttnitz, Salzfurtkapelle, Schrenz and Stumsdorf into Zörbig. The original partnership had been forged with the then self-administering municipality of Spören.

The following are listed buildings or sites in Rhineland-Palatinate’s Directory of Cultural Monuments:[12]

Former Augustinian Canonical Foundation (monumental zone) – Catholic Parish Church of the Assumption of Mary

Brühlstraße 1 – Gustav-Adolf’s Evangelical Church

• Evangelical church, Brühlstraße 1 – two-naved galleried hall church with Romanesque elements, sandstone-block building, 1907/1908
• Binger Straße, graveyard – Wetzel-Diegel tomb, Neoclassical portal with galvanoplasty, about 1914
• Im Kloster 2-12 and others, former Augustinian Canonical Foundation (monumental zone) – founded about 1040, dissolved in 1566, reëstablished in 1697; former provostry church (Catholic Parish Church of the Assumption of Mary [Pfarrkirche Mariä Himmelfahrt]): Late Romanesque quire square, apse flanked by round towers, about 1230–1260, consecration in 1308; Late Baroque aisleless church with ridge turret about 1766, furnishings, sacristy from 1723; convent buildings: three-wing Baroque complex with mansard roofs, 1723 and years following; ringwall remnants (see also below)
• Klostergasse 14 – former Evangelical rectory, two-and-a-half-floor Late Classicist sandstone-block building, about 1850
• Kreuznacher Straße 3 – four-sided estate, from the earlier half of the 19th century; building with half-hip roof, timber framing plastered, about 1800
• Mittelgasse 1 – timber-frame house, plastered, 18th to early 19th century
• Mühlengasse 10 – hook-shaped estate; Baroque timber-frame house, partly solid, marked 1685, timber-frame barn
• Mühlengasse 11 – former monastery mill; four-sided estate; 1836 and years following; Late Classicist house, barn with half-hip roof, partly timber-frame
• Mühlengasse/corner of Sprendlinger Straße – warriors’ memorial 1870-1871, sandstone obelisk, last fourth of the 19th century
• Rathausstraße 8 – former town hall; essentially Late Gothic, possibly from about 1600, marked 1699, heavily made over in the 19th and 20th centuries
• Sprendlinger Straße 3 – estate complex; bungalow, gatehouse marked 1796
• Sprendlinger Straße 16 – Baroque timber-frame house, partly solid, apparently from 1761
• Former grindstone mill, on Landesstraße 413 – four-sided estate, mid 19th century, building with half-hip roof, quarrystone

The former Pfaffen-Schwabenheim Augustinian Canonical Foundation (Augustiner-Chorherrenstift Pfaffen-Schwabenheim) is the biggest Baroque monastery complex that has been preserved unaltered in Rhineland-Palatinate. The former provostry church (then known as the monastery or abbey church, now as the Catholic Parish Church of the Assumption of Mary, or Pfarrkirche Mariä Himmelfahrt in German) that was built into the Baroque complex is one of Rhineland-Palatinate's noteworthiest Late Romanesque churches, and it stands under the protection of the Hague Convention for the Protection of Cultural Property in the Event of Armed Conflict. Since August 2012 the church has also been a promotional project of the Deutsche Stiftung Denkmalschutz (German Foundation for Monument Protection). The abbey church itself unites Lower-Rhine and Upper-Rhine Romanesque with elements of the Gothic that came from France into a unique, harmonious ambiance. The church is made up of two parts that date from different times: the Late Romanesque quire and the Late Baroque nave. The Late Romanesque tapering quire is enclosed by an apse flanked by round towers and was built sometime in the years from 1230 to 1248. The transept, completed in 1260, has now vanished. In 1308 came the final consecration, whose 700th anniversary in 2008 was celebrated with a Pontifical High Mass with Karl Cardinal Lehmann. The Late Baroque aisleless nave was built onto the Late Romanesque quire in 1766, and in 1848 it was given a ridge turret. The convent buildings that were built between 1723 and 1764 form a three-winged Baroque complex with mansard roofs and elaborate stucco ceilings of the Mainz school of strapwork. The highlight among the stucco ceilings is the painted one in the former refectory measuring more than 90 m², which bears inscribed witness to the sponsor of these works, Charles III Philip, Elector Palatine. The last remnants of the ringwall that once girded the monastery were removed in 2003 when a new building zone was laid out.

The following clubs are active in Pfaffen-Schwabenheim:[13]

• Evangelischer Kirchenchor — Evangelical church choir
• Fördergemeinschaft Kirchen, Klosteranlagen und Kulturdenkmäler Pfaffen-Schwabenheim e.V. — promotional association for churches, monastery complexes and cultural monuments
• Gewerbeverein — business association
• Jugendförderverein — youth promotional association
• “Klosterbühne” Pfaffen-Schwabenheim e.V. — amateur theatrical group
• Kulturverein Pfaffen-Schwabenheim e.V. — cultural club
• Landfrauenverein — countrywomen's club
• Reit- und Fahrsportverein Pfaffen-Schwabenheim — driving and riding club
• Sozialverband VdK Rheinland Pfalz e.V. Ortsverband Pfaffen Schwabenheim — social advocacy group local chapter
• Turn- und Sportverein 1883 e.V. — gymnastic and sport club, with the following departments:
  • Badminton
  • Football (all ages)
  • Gymnastics (mother-child up to seniors)
  • Mini-trampoline
  • Nordic walking
  • Prellball
  • Rhythmic gymnastics and dance
  • Ski workout
  • Step aerobics
  • Volleyball

Between the Appelbach (the local brook) and the Bosenberg (the local hill), the craft of winegrowing is practised in 160 ha of vineyards. Businesses plying other crafts, and some in the service sector, too, are located on 17 ha of land set aside for commercial use, offering local jobs. An advantage to local businesses is the favourable road links.[14]

Pfaffen-Schwabenheim belongs to the “Bingen Winegrowing Area” within the Rheinhessen wine region. Sixteen winegrowing businesses are active in the village, and the area currently given over to vineyards is 160 ha. Roughly 80% of the grapes are white wine varieties (as at 2007). In 1979, there were still 56 such businesses, and the area then given over to vineyards was slightly less at 141 ha.[15] Among Pfaffen-Schwabenheim's other Weingüter (wineries) are these:[16][17]

• Weinbau C.u.K. Balzer
• Weingut Gunther Schrauth
• Weingut Heinz-Willi Sonntag
• Weingut Karolinenhof
• Weingut Ralf u. Heike Petry
• Winzerhof Diegel

Pfaffen-Schwabenheim lies at the junction of Landesstraße 413 and Kreisstraße 91 (which becomes Kreisstraße 3 just southeast of the village at the boundary with the Mainz-Bingen district). Less than 2 km along Landesstraße 413 northeast of the village are interchanges with both Bundesstraße 50 and the Autobahn A 61 (Koblenz–Ludwigshafen). Serving neighbouring Sprendlingen is a railway station on the Rheinhessenbahn. Another serves neighbouring Bad Kreuznach with a variety of rail services. The Kreuznacher Straßen- und Vorortbahnen ("Kreuznach Tramways and Suburban Railways") ran a tramway from Bad Kreuznach to Pfaffen-Schwabenheim and beyond until it was closed in 1952.

Pfaffen-Schwabenheim has a daycare centre with spaces for 75 children aged from 2 to 6 years, split into three mixed-age groups tended by a staff of nine. The children here are mainly from Pfaffen-Schwabenheim and neighbouring Pleitersheim. The Grundschule Pfaffen-Schwabenheim (primary school) is attended by 145 schoolchildren from Pfaffen-Schwabenheim, Badenheim, Pleitersheim, Volxheim and Biebelsheim.

Pfaffen-Schwabenheim has a village community centre with seating for up to 300, a public address system, a fully equipped kitchen, a stage and parking.[18]

• Ramona Diegel, Wine Queen of Rhenish Hesse 2012/2013 (“Ramona I”) and German Wine Princess 2013/2014