Vyshyvanka

The embroidery is a fundamental element of the Ukrainian folk costume.[11]^:16 Ukrainian vyshyvanka is distinguished by local embroidery features specific to Ukrainian embroidery:

The vyshyvanka not only speaks of its Ukrainian origin but also of the particular region in which it was made. The knowing eye could detect where a person hailed from by the clothes on their back. Embroidery is thus an important craft within Ukraine and different techniques exist to suit local styles with their own particular patterns and colours. Traditionally, the thread was coloured according to local formulas using bark, leaves, flowers, berries and so on. In this way, the local environment is literally reflected in the colour of the embroidery.

— JJ Gurga, Echoes of the Past: Ukrainian Poetic Cinema and the Experiential Ethnographic Mode[3]

In Ukrainian embroidery, black, red, and white colours are basic, and yellow, blue, and green are supplementary.[11]^:278

On the territory of Ukraine, embroidery existed already in the 5th century B.C, and was a creation of Scythian fine art.[11]^:18 Ukraine is famous throughout the world for its highly artistic embroidery.[11]^:16 It is important for the embroiderer today to use folk art as a source without altering stitches or colours because every change devalues a piece of embroidery and distorts it.[11]^:278

Southern Russian dress, which shows a propensity for bright, polychromatic garments, was most certainly affected by the influence of vividly coloured Ukrainian costume from the significant influx of Ukrainian settlers since the 17th century.[12]

During Paris Fashion Week 2015, Ukrainian fashion designer Vita Kin was featured in Vogue magazine[13] and Harper's Bazaar for introducing vyshyvankas as modern Bohemian style designs[14] that attracted fashion icons like Anna Dello Russo, Miroslava Duma, and Leandra Medine.[15]

In its US May issue Vogue wrote that the vyshyvanka has "made waves far past the Eastern European country".[16] The Times of London declared it "this summer's [2016] most sought-after item of clothing", soon following was the New York Times who advised readers to stock up on this "top of summer" fashion.[16] French actress Melanie Thierry wore a vyshyvanka at the 2016 Cannes Film Festival.[16] Queen Máxima of the Netherlands wore a vyshyvanka dress when visiting the 2016 Summer Olympics.[16]

Vyshyvanka is used as a talisman to protect the person wearing it and to tell a story.[17] A geometric pattern weaved in the past by adding red or black threads into the light threads, which was later imitated by embroidery, was believed having the power to protect a person from all harm.[11]^:278

Archduke Wilhelm wearing a vyshyvanka

Archduke Wilhelm of Austria was a Ukrainian patriot who preferred wearing the vyshyvanka and was therefore known in Ukrainian as Vasyl Vyshyvanyi (Basil the Embroidered). The Vyshyvanoho Square was named in his honour in the city of Lviv.

Vyshyvanka and other national symbols became extremely popular in Ukraine following Euromaidan, including in LGBT+ communities signalling their belonging to the nation.[18]

Vyshyvanka Day originated in 2006 at Chernivtsi National University by its student Lesya Voronyuk and gradually became international as the International Day of Vyshyvanka.[19][20] It is celebrated on the third Thursday of May.[21][19] It is intended to unite all Ukrainians over the world, regardless of religion, language they speak or their place of residence.[22] It is a flash mob holiday, which is not attached to any public holiday or feast day.[23] On this day many Ukrainians wear vyshyvankas to demonstrate commitment to the idea of national identity and unity and to show their patriotism. State officials, including municipal, court, and the government officials and the head of the state,[24] may take part in celebration.

In 2018, the Appeal Instance of the Ministry of Economic Development and Trade of Ukraine conducted a research and came to the following conclusions:[25]

[T]he word combination "Vyshyvanka Day" means the holiday dedicated to Ukrainian ethnic embroidered cloth and entered to Ukrainian culture as the name of a national holiday of Ukrainian consciousness, patriotism, and the spirit of unity of the people symbolized by Ukrainian vyshyvanka.

The word combination "Vyshyvanka Day" invokes in minds of the citizens the only association – the holiday dedicated to vyshyvanka, which is celebrated in Ukraine, and now also abroad, yearly in a certain day of May. The holiday of Vyshyvanka Day gained symbolical meaning and is already an international event which spreads the idea of Ukrainian identity in the world, popularises Ukrainian culture and traditions, aids formation of Ukrainian national consciousness, nurturing patriotism and unity of Ukrainian people. […]

The celebration of Vyshyvanka Day occurs yearly with participation of citizens, non-governmental organisations, state authorities, and is widely celebrated by the society by wearing vyshyvankas and arranging various events […]