Aschaffenburg

Aschaffenburg (German pronunciation: [aˈʃafn̩bʊɐ̯k] (listen)) is a town in northwest Bavaria, Germany. The town of Aschaffenburg is not considered part of the district of Aschaffenburg, but is the administrative seat.

Aschaffenburg
Coat of arms
Location of Aschaffenburg
Aschaffenburg
Aschaffenburg
Coordinates: 49°58′0″N 9°09′0″E
CountryGermany
StateBavaria
Admin. regionLower Franconia
DistrictUrban district
Subdivisions10 districts
Government
  Lord mayorJürgen Herzing (SPD)
Area
  Total62.45 km2 (24.11 sq mi)
Elevation
138 m (453 ft)
Population
 (2019-12-31)[1]
  Total71,002
  Density1,100/km2 (2,900/sq mi)
Time zoneUTC+01:00 (CET)
  Summer (DST)UTC+02:00 (CEST)
Postal codes
63739–63743 (old: 8750)
Dialling codes06021, 06028 (Obernau)
Vehicle registrationAB
Websitewww.aschaffenburg.de
Aschaffenburg in Bavaria

Aschaffenburg belonged to the Archbishopric of Mainz for more than 800 years. The town is located at the westernmost border of Lower Franconia and separated from the central and eastern part of the Regierungsbezirk (administrative region) by the Spessart hills, whereas it opens towards the Rhine-Main plain in the west and north-west. Therefore, the inhabitants speak neither Bavarian nor East Franconian but rather a local version of Rhine Franconian.

Geography

Location

The town is located on both sides of the Main in the southwest part of Germany, 41 kilometers (25 mi) southeast of Frankfurt am Main. In the western part of the municipal territory, the smaller Aschaff flows into the Main. The region is also known as Bayerischer Untermain ("Bavarian Lower Main"). Aschaffenburg lies in the far northwest of the state of Bavaria, close to the border to the state of Hesse.

Climate

The climate is continental, typically with warm, dry summers and cold, damp winters. Aschaffenburg usually receives less snowfall during the winter than the nearby Spessart.

Subdivision

Austrian memorial in the Österreicher Kolonie

Aschaffenburg comprises 10 Stadtteile:

  • Damm
  • Gailbach
  • Leider
  • Nilkheim
  • Obernau
  • Obernauer Kolonie (Obernauer Colony)
  • Österreicher Kolonie (Austrian Colony)
  • Schweinheim
  • Stadtmitte (town center)
  • Strietwald

Nilkheim and Leider are the only Stadtteile which are located on the left bank of the river Main.

Neighbouring communities

The following municipalities border Aschaffenburg (clockwise, from the north): Johannesberg, Glattbach, Goldbach, Haibach, Bessenbach, Sulzbach am Main, Niedernberg, Großostheim, Stockstadt am Main and Mainaschaff.

History

Etymology

The name Aschaffenburg (Ascaffaburc, Ascapha or Ascaphaburg in the Middle Ages) originally meant "castle at the ash tree river" deriving from the river Aschaff that runs through parts of the town.

Pre-history to Middle Ages

The earliest remains of settlements in the area of Aschaffenburg date from the Stone Age.

Aschaffenburg was originally a settlement of the Alamanni. Roman legions were stationed here. In c. 700 AD, the Ravenna Cosmography names two settlements in region: Uburzis (Würzburg) and Ascapha (Aschaffenburg).[2]:69

Around 550, the area had been conquered by the Franks, and their Hausmeier built a castle here. In the 8th century, a Benedictine monastery was founded, dedicated to St. Michael, reportedly by Saint Boniface. This became the Kollegiatstift St. Peter und Alexander in the second half of the 10th century (957). In 869, King Louis the Younger married Liutgard of Saxony at Aschaffenburg. She also died here in 885 and was later laid to rest with her daughter Hildegard in the Stiftskirche. Ascaffinburg is mentioned first in 974 in a gift document by Otto II, in which he gave several villages including Wertheim am Main and a stretch of forest in the Spessart to the collegiate church.[2]:69[3]:56

In the Middle Ages the town was known as Ascaffaburc, Ascapha or Ascaphaburg. A stone bridge over the Main was reportedly built by Archbishop Willigis in 989, who also made the town his second residence. The town (referred to in 975 as a civitas) was part of the Archbishopric of Mainz from 982, when Duke Otto died. A Vizedom is mentioned for the first time in 1122 as the top local representative of the Archbishop. In 1292 a synod was held here, and in 1447 an imperial diet, preliminary to that of Vienna, approved a concordat (sometimes called the Aschaffenburg Concordat). In the German Peasants' War (1525), the town backed the losing side.[4][3]:56–7

Modern times through 19th century

In 1552, the late-Gothic castle of Johannisburg was destroyed. It was replaced in 1605-14 by the Renaissance Schloss Johannisburg.[3]:57 The town suffered greatly during the Thirty Years' War, being held in turn by the various belligerents. During the Battle of Dettingen (1743), which took place to the north, the town was occupied by French troops. It formed part of the electorate of the Archbishop of Mainz, and in 1803 was made over to Archbishop Karl Theodor von Dalberg as the Principality of Aschaffenburg.

Aschaffenburg, by Matthäus Merian

Aschaffenburg was the site of the "Forstliche Hochschule Aschaffenburg" ( Königlich Bayerische Centralforstlehranstalt ), established in 1807, "made famous by the researches of Professor Dr Ernst Ebermayer." The Academy was "dissolved in 1832, but re-organized under the Ministry of Finance in 1874"; and, as "of 30th March, 1874, united to the University of Munich."[5]

In 1810, the Principality of Aschaffenburg was merged into the new Grand Duchy of Frankfurt, although Dalberg retained Aschaffenburg as his residence. In 1814 the town was transferred to the Kingdom of Bavaria by an Austrian-Bavarian treaty. In 1817 it was included within Bavarian Lower Franconia. From 1840 to 1848, King Ludwig I of Bavaria had a Roman villa built to the west of town. It was named Pompejanum after its model, the house of Castor and Pollux at Pompeii.[6][7]

In 1866, the Prussian Army inflicted a severe defeat on the Austrians in the vicinity during the Austro-Prussian War.

World War II

In World War II, Aschaffenburg was heavily damaged by Allied area bombing, including Schloss Johannisburg which was completely restored several years later. The German military chose to strongly defend Aschaffenburg during the last weeks of the war, which resulted in the "Battle of Aschaffenburg" fought 28 March – 3 April 1945. The U.S. 45th Infantry Division was forced to take the fortified town against stiff German resistance in a series of frontal assaults that involved house-to-house fighting and vicious close combat. The resulting widespread urban destruction was quite severe, as cannon fire was used point-blank to blast through structures.[8]

Aschaffenburg displaced persons camps

At the end of World War II the United States Army occupied military facilities formerly used and controlled by the Wehrmacht. These were converted for use by U.S. military personnel as processing centres for displaced persons at the end of the war.[9] From 1945 7,000 Ukrainians were accommodated in four displaced persons camps:[10]

  • Artillerie Kaserne — approx. 2,000 people (1945–1949)[11]
  • Bois Brulé Kaserne — 1,500 people (1946–1949)[12]
  • LaGarde Kaserne — 1,700 people (1945–1949)[13]
  • Pionier Kaserne — 2,000 people (1946–1949)[14]

Two other camps, Alte (old) Kaserne and Jäger Kaserne housed mainly Poles and Lithuanians.[15]

Post-war development

In the decades following the war, Aschaffenburg and the surrounding region experienced robust economic prosperity, partially due to its close proximity to Frankfurt am Main.

Civilians clearing away the rubble, 3 April 1945

According to an online 2002 survey in Stern magazine, [Stern 14/2002], 82 percent of residents living in the Bayerischer Untermain region where Aschaffenburg is located were satisfied with the place where they lived. This was the highest level recorded in the survey, making the region the #1 place to live in Germany, based on several factors including employment opportunities in the region, educational facilities, public services, transportation, recreational options, shopping, cultural facilities/events, climate, etc.

Another survey taken in 2006 by McKinsey, Stern magazine, ZDF, and web.de again showed that Aschaffenburg has one of the highest ratings for quality of life in Germany.

U.S. military presence (1945–2007)

Aschaffenburg was the location of several United States Army installations throughout the Cold War. After initially taking over the administration of the ex-Wehrmacht installations, which were then used as displaced persons camps, the American presence in the Aschaffenburg military community began after general renovations in 1948.[9] The installation sites were known as Ready Kaserne (previously Artillerie Kaserne), Smith Kaserne (previously LaGarde Kaserne), Graves Kaserne (previously Bois Brulé Kaserne), Fiori Kaserne (previously Pionier Kaserne), and Jaeger Kaserne (previously Jäger Kaserne). These housed armour, infantry, engineer, maintenance and artillery elements of the U.S. Army 3rd Brigade, 3rd Infantry Division and various VII Corps elements including the 9th Engineer Battalion, the 3rd Bn 21st Field Artillery (Honest John), and the 1st Bn 80th Field Artillery (LANCE). Much of the U.S. Army presence in Aschaffenburg ended in 1992 with the ending of the Cold War. The last buildings, which were primarily used for housing, were handed back to the local government in 2007.

Demographics

Schloss Johannisburg reflected in the river Main at night

Population

Year Population
190018,093
191029,892
192534,056
193945,379
194530,861
194636,383
195045,499
Year Population
196154,131
197055,193
198059,257
198760,964
199064,098[16]
199566,360[16]
200067,592[16]
Year Population
200368,607[16]
200768,646[16]
201068,648[17]
201568,986[18]

Age distribution of the population (as of 2007)

Age Population
0-1913,888[16]
20-3919,505[16]
40-5918,951[16]
60+16,556[16]

Governance

Lord Mayors

  • Wilhelm Matt (1872-1936) (BVP) (1904–1933)
  • Wilhelm Wohlgemuth (1900-1978) (NSDAP) (1933–1945)
  • Jean Stock (1893-1965) (SPD) (1945)
  • Vinzenz Schwind (1910-1974) (1945–1970)
  • Willi Reiland (1933-2015) (SPD) (1970–2000)
  • Klaus Herzog (born 1951) (SPD) (2000–2020)
  • Jürgen Herzing (born 1960) (SPD) (since 2020)

Economy

In 2017 (latest data available) the GDP per inhabitant was €69,928. This places the district 9th out of 96 districts (rural and urban) in Bavaria (overall average: €46,698).[19]

Well-known companies in Aschaffenburg are (e.g.): Linde Material Handling, Linde Hydraulics, Joyson Safety Systems (former Petri AG) and part of Joyson Electronics as well as DPDgroup.[20]

Shopping

The City Galerie, opened in 1974 and located in the town center (Stadtmitte), is the largest shopping mall in northern Bavaria. It was one of the first indoor shopping malls to open in Germany. Aschaffenburg also has a pedestrian shopping zone (Fußgängerzone in German) closed to motor vehicles, except for deliveries. It is located in the town center.

Politics

Aschaffenburg is part of the Aschaffenburg constituency for elections to the Bundestag.

Arts and culture

Cultural events

Aschaffenburg hosts numerous festivals, fairs, exhibitions, markets and concerts throughout the year including the annual Stadtfest, held on the last weekend in August.

Theaters and entertainment venues

  • Colos-Saal, a live-music club
  • Erthaltheater
  • f.a.n. Frankenstolz Arena (formerly Unterfrankenhalle)
  • Kabarett im Hofgarten
  • Ludwigstheater
  • Stadthalle am Schloss
  • Stadttheater (town theater)
  • Zimmertheater.

Museums and galleries

Library

  • Stadtbibliothek Aschaffenburg (Aschaffenburg town library)

Cinemas

  • Kinopolis, a modern multiplex cinema
  • Casino

Recreation

A large recreational complex is located in the Stadtteil of Leider. It includes an indoor and outdoor swimming pool complex as well as an indoor ice rink and tennis courts, which are open to the general public. There's also a marina on the Main between the Willigis and Adenauer bridges.

Attractions

Schloss Schönbusch in Schönbusch Park

Sights

The main sights of Aschaffenburg are the Schloss Johannisburg, built 1605–1614 by Archbishop Johann Schweikhard von Kronberg, which contains a library with a number of incunabula, a collection of engravings and paintings; the Pompejanum, a replica of a Roman town house discovered in Pompeii commissioned by King Ludwig I. and opened in 1850; the St. Peter und Alexander collegiate church, founded in the second half of the 10th century, but dating in the main from the early 12th century on, in which are preserved various monuments by the Vischers, a sarcophagus with the relics of Saint Margaret, and a painting by Matthias Grünewald; the Capuchin hospital; a theatre, which was formerly a house of the Teutonic Order; several mansions of the nobility; and the historical old town. Across the river are the Park and Schloss Schönbusch.

The graves of Clemens Brentano and his brother Christian Brentano (died 1851) and that of Wilhelm Heinse can be found in the Altstadtfriedhof (Old Town Cemetery).[22]

Parks

Aschaffenburg has numerous parks including the following:

  • Schönbusch Park, located in Nilkheim
  • Schöntal Park, located in the town center
  • Aschaffenburger Schlossgarten, around Schloss Johannisburg
  • Kleine Schönbuschallee

Sports

Football

Viktoria Aschaffenburg is the primary football club. The club was formed on 24 June 1904 out of the merger of FC Aschaffenburg (6 August 1901) and FC Viktoria Aschaffenburg (12 April 1902). It was renamed Sportverein Viktoria 01 Aschaffenburg on 3 June 1906. Their homefield is Stadion am Schönbusch (Schönbusch stadium), a modern stadium located in Nilkheim .

American football

In 1991, the Aschaffenburg Stallions began playing American football at Schönbusch stadium. A cheerleader squad also exists.

Baseball and softball

Aschaffenburg is also home to the Aschaffenburg Mohawks Baseball and Softball team. The softball team won the 2010 German Championship. The adult baseball team won the 2011 Landesliga South Championship and will play in the highest league of the state Hessen in 2012.

Infrastructure

Roads

Aschaffenburg is located on Bundesautobahn 3 between Frankfurt am Main and Würzburg. The southern terminus of Bundesautobahn 45 is located just west of the town. Bundesstrasse B 26 passes through the town. Bundestrasse B 8 used to pass through Aschaffenburg, but has now been rerouted along the Bundesautobahn 3. Three road bridges cross the river Main at Aschaffenburg: Friedrich Ebert Bridge (a new span opened in 2008), Willigis Bridge and Konrad Adenauer Bridge. In the 1980s, a road tunnel was constructed under the Schlossplatz to improve traffic flow through the Stadtmitte (town center).

After 43 years of planning and construction, the limited-access Innenstadtring or "inner-town-ring" road was completed in July 2013. It allows motorists to bypass the Stadtmitte (town center) and reduces traffic congestion in Aschaffenburg, which has been a problem in recent years. Another road project called Bahnparallele is currently under construction, with a small section already opened. It is located in the Stadtteil of Damm and runs parallel to the railway tracks.

Parking

There are approximately 7,500 parking spaces in the ten Stadtteile of Aschaffenburg and eight public parking garages.

Public transport

Aschaffenburg has a comprehensive bus network serving the town and surrounding region. The 15 main bus lines which serve the Stadtteile of Aschaffenburg are run by Stadtwerke Aschaffenburg. There are several other bus lines which link Aschaffenburg with the surrounding region. Those lines are run by other companies, including the Deutsche Bahn. A new regional bus terminal opened in 2008, adjacent to the Aschaffenburg Hauptbahnhof (main railway station). The Regionale Omnibusbahnhof Aschaffenburg (ROB) was built to consolidate all of the scattered bus stops in the area around the main railway station into one central location and reduce traffic congestion in the area.

Railway stations and stops

  • Aschaffenburg Hauptbahnhof/Aschaffenburg Central Station - The station has long-distance InterCityExpress and InterCity services as well as regional connections to neighboring towns and cities. A new, larger station building opened in 2011, replacing a smaller structure built in the 1950s.
  • Aschaffenburg-Hochschule/University of Applied Sciences - The stop, located near Würzburger Straße, opened in 2007 to accommodate students attending nearby schools. It is positioned between Aschaffenburg Hauptbahnhof and Aschaffenburg-Süd/South. There is only a single track platform.
  • Aschaffenburg-Süd/South
  • Obernau
  • Schönbusch-Nilkheim - The station closed when passenger service on the "Bachgaubahn" railway line ended in 1974.
  • Leider - Freight railway terminal close to Aschaffenburg's port on the Main. There is no passenger service.

All passenger train service is provided by the Deutsche Bahn.

Harbor

Aschaffenburg has an active port along the Main in the Stadtteil of Leider. There is railway access to the port. In 2005, 2.8 million tons of cargo passed through the port.

Airports

A small general aviation airport (Flugplatz Aschaffenburg, ICAO-Code: EDFC) is located in nearby Großostheim. Frankfurt Airport is located 46 kilometers (29 mi) from Aschaffenburg and offers flights to destinations all over the world. The trip to and from the airport takes about 30 minutes by car or approximately 45 minutes by InterCityExpress train.

Medical

The three primary medical centers in Aschaffenburg are:

  • Klinikum Aschaffenburg, the main hospital
  • Hofgartenklinik
  • Frauenklinik am Ziegelberg

There are approximately 789 hospital beds, 159 doctors, 68 dentists and 38 pharmacies in the Stadtteile of Aschaffenburg.

Education

There are various types of schools in Aschaffenburg serving approximately 18,000 students from the town and surrounding region.

University

Hochschule Aschaffenburg is a university of applied sciences (or Fachhochschule ).

Media

Printed media

  • Main-Echo, Aschaffenburg-based newspaper published daily except Sunday. This is the main newspaper for Aschaffenburg and the surrounding region. It was first published on 24 November 1945, replacing "Aschaffenburger Zeitung". It has a daily circulation of approximately 200,000 readers.
  • Prima Sonntag, newspaper published only on Sunday
  • FRIZZ Das Magazin, culture/scene magazine
  • Brot & Spiele, culture magazine
  • Szene Magazin

Radio and television

  • Radio Primavera
  • Radio Galaxy
  • Main.tv - Das Primavera Fernsehen, Aschaffenburg programming

Internet

  • www.main.tv - video-Website for Aschaffenburg (city and regional)
  • Kommweichei.com e.V., the community and party scene in Aschaffenburg
  • MainReporter.de - portal for Aschaffenburg (city and regional)
  • abscene.de | Newgae magazine
  • ABhörn, online Magazine
  • Main-netz.de, news and community information for the region

Notable people

Before 1900

Hefner-Alteneck
Joseph von Lindwurm

1900 to 1959

Hanns Seidel (left) in 1957 with Konrad Adenauer (right) CDU party convention
  • Hanns Seidel, 1901–1961, German politician and Bavarian prime minister from 1957 to 1960
  • Inge Viermetz, 1908–1997, German official and defendant at the Nuremberg Trials
  • Guido Dessauer, 1915–2012, German physicist, business executive of the Aschaffenburger Buntpapierfabrik, art collector, patron of arts, and academic
  • Peter Gingold, 1916–2006, figure in the German Resistance and the National Committee for a Free Germany
  • Wilfried Hofmann, 1931–2020, German diplomat and author
  • Adalbert Kraus, born in 1937, German tenor
  • Felix Magath, born in 1953, German footballer and football manager
  • Rudi Bommer, born 1957, German footballer and football manager

from 1960

Notable residents

Alois Alzheimer
Emil Erlenmeyer around 1863

Twin towns – sister cities

Aschaffenburg is twinned with:[23]

References

  1. "Tabellenblatt "Daten 2", Statistischer Bericht A1200C 202041 Einwohnerzahlen der Gemeinden, Kreise und Regierungsbezirke". Bayerisches Landesamt für Statistik und Datenverarbeitung (in German). July 2020.
  2. Dettelbacher, Werner (1974). Franken - Kunst, Geschichte und Landschaft (German). Dumont Verlag. ISBN 3-7701-0746-2.
  3. Schumacher, Karin; Schumacher, Hans-Jürgen (2003). Zeitreise durch den Spessart (German). Wartberg Verlag. ISBN 3-8313-1075-0.
  4. "Aschaffenburg" in The New Encyclopædia Britannica. Chicago: Encyclopædia Britannica Inc., 15th edn., 1992, Vol. 1, p. 617.
  5. Barnard, Henry. 1870. "Technical instruction. Special report of the Commissioner of Education." United States House of Representatives, January 19. Accessed: May 7, 2012.
  6. "Aschaffenburg - Johannisburg Palace" (PDF). Bayerische Verwaltung der staatlichen Schlösser, Gärten und Seen. Retrieved 13 August 2014.
  7. "Pompeiianum". Bayerische Verwaltung der staatlichen Schlösser, Gärten und Seen. Retrieved 12 August 2014.
  8. Stanton, Shelby, World War II Order of Battle: An Encyclopedic Reference to U.S. Army Ground Forces from Battalion through Division, 1939-1946 (Revised Edition, 2006), Stackpole Books, p. 134-135
  9. U.S. ARMY INSTALLATIONS - ASCHAFFENBURG
  10. 'Ашаффенбурґ', Енциклопедія українознавства ("Encyclopedia of Ukraine") Vol. І, p. 77
  11. Artillerie Kaserne, Sälzerweg, Aschaffenburg 49°57′48.18″N 9°10′22.89″E
  12. Bois Brulé Kaserne, Würzburger Strasse, Aschaffenburg 49°57′48.32″N 9°10′38″E
  13. LaGarde Kaserne, Würzburger Strasse, Aschaffenburg 49°58′1.02″N 9°9′57.75″E
  14. Pionier Kaserne, Schweinheimer Strasse, Aschaffenburg 49°57′59.06″N 9°9′33.61″E
  15. DP Camps in Aschaffenburg
  16. Bevölkerungsentwicklung in der Stadt Aschaffenburg (PDF) Archived December 18, 2008, at the Wayback Machine
  17. 2010-09-30
  18. "VGR der Länder, Kreisergebnisse für Deutschland - Bruttoinlandsprodukt, Bruttowertschöpfung in den kreisfreien Städten und Landkreisen der Bundesrepublik Deutschland 2000 bis 2017 (German)". Statistische Ämter der Länder und des Bundes. Retrieved 4 February 2020.
  19. "Companies in Aschaffenburg".
  20. Homepage Christian Schad Museum
  21. Chisholm, Hugh, ed. (1911). "Aschaffenburg" . Encyclopædia Britannica. 2 (11th ed.). Cambridge University Press. p. 720.
  22. "Partnerstädte". aschaffenburg.de (in German). Aschaffenburg. Retrieved 2020-11-04.
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