Cuisine of Kerala

The cuisine of Kerala, a state in the south of India, is linked to its history, geography, demography and culture. Kerala cuisine offers a multitude of both vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes prepared using fish, poultry and red meat with rice a typical accompaniment. Chillies, curry leaves, coconut, mustard seeds, turmeric, tamarind, and asafoetida are all frequently used.

Kerala is known as the "Land of Spices" because it traded spices with Europe as well as with many ancient civilizations with the oldest historical records of the Sumerians from 3000 BCE.[1][2]

Historical and cultural influences

In addition to historical diversity, cultural influences, particularly the large percentages of Muslims and Christians, have also contributed unique dishes and styles to Kerala cuisine, especially non-vegetarian dishes. The meat eating habits of the people were historically limited by religious taboos. Brahmins eschew non vegetarian items. However, most modern-day Hindus do not observe any dietary taboos, except a few of those belonging to upper castes who do not consume beef or pork.[3] Most Muslims do not eat pork and other items forbidden by Islamic law. Alcohol is available in Kerala in many hotels and over a thousand bars and liquor stores, but state authorities plan to close the vast majority of these outlets in a ten-year plan, beginning in 2014, to combat alcoholism.[4]

Overview
A restaurant menu in Kerala

One of the traditional Kerala dishes is vegetarian and is called the Kerala Sadya, which is an elaborate banquet prepared for festivals and ceremonies. A full-course Sadya, which consists of rice with about twenty different accompaniments and desserts is the ceremonial meal of Kerala eaten usually on celebratory occasions including marriages, Onam and Vishu. It is served on a plantain leaf.

Because of its rich trading heritage, over time various indigenous Kerala dishes have been blended with foreign dishes to adapt them to local tastes. Coconuts grow in abundance in Kerala, so grated coconut and coconut milk are commonly used for thickening and flavouring.[5] Kerala's long coastline and numerous rivers have led to a strong fishing industry in the region, making seafood a common part of meals. Rice is grown in abundance along with tapioca. It is the main starch ingredient used in Kerala's food.[6]

Having been a major production area of spices for thousands of years, the region makes frequent use of black pepper, cardamom, clove, ginger, and cinnamon. Kerala also has a variety of breakfast dishes like idli, dosa, appam, idiyappam, puttu, and pathiri.[7]

Hindu cuisine
Main article: Sadhya
A typical sadya, where banana leaves are used as plates
Sadya items ready to be served. Clockwise from top: paayasam, bitter gourd thoran, aviyal, kaalan, lime pickle, sambar, buttermilk with boiled rice in center

The vast majority of Kerala's Hindus, except certain communities and ovo-lacto vegetarians, eat fish, and chicken.[8]

Muslim cuisine
See also: Thalassery cuisine
Pathiri, a pancake made of flour, is one of the common breakfast dishes of the Mappila Muslims of Malabar region

Muslim cuisine or Mappila cuisine is a blend of traditional Kerala, Persian and Arab food culture.[9] This confluence of culinary cultures is best seen in the preparation of most dishes.[9]

Kallummakkaya (mussels) curry, Irachi Puttu (Irachi means meat), parottas (soft flatbread),[9] Pathiri (a type of rice pancake)[9] and ghee rice are some of the other specialties. The characteristic use of spices is the hallmark of Mappila cuisine. spices like black pepper, cardamom and clove are used profusely. The Malabar version of Biryani, popularly known as Kuzhi Mandi in Malayalam is another popular item, which has an influnce from Yemen.[9]

The snacks include Unnakkaya (deep-fried, boiled ripe banana paste covering a mixture of cashew, raisins and sugar),[10] pazham nirachathu (ripe banana filled with coconut grating, molasses or sugar),[10] Muttamala made of eggs,[9] Chattipathiri, a dessert made of flour, like baked, layered Chapatis with rich filling, Arikkadukka and so on.[9]

Christian cuisine
Main article: Theenmura
Kozhukkatta is prepared by Saint Thomas Christians on the Saturday prior to Palm Sunday and the day is hence called Kozhukatta Saturday.

Christians especially Mar Thoma Nasranis (St Thomas Christians), of Kerala have their own cuisine which is a blend of Indian, Middle Eastern and Western styles and flavours of cooking. Particularly well-developed are the snacks and savouries of Christians such as "achappam" and "kuzhalappam". A favourite dish of Kerala Christians is "mappas", or chicken stew. For this dish, chicken, potatoes and onions are simmered gently in a creamy white sauce flavoured with black pepper, cinnamon, cloves, green chillies, lime juice, shallots and coconut milk. In Central Kerala this is made only with Beef or lamb, the usage of Chicken in stew is very rare.[11] Lamb and duck can replace chicken in the stew recipe. Biriyani (mutton, chicken, Beef, lamb or prawn) made as ‘dum’ tops the list of delicacies. Thalassery Biriyani the only version of biriyani in Kerala.[11]

Other dishes include piralen (chicken stir-fries), meat thoran (dry curry with shredded coconut), sardine and duck curries, and meen molee (spicy stewed fish).[11] This is eaten with parotta or appam.[11] "Meen Mulakittathu" or "Meen vevichathu" (fish in fiery red chilly sauce) is another favourite item.[11]

In addition to chicken and fish, Christians along with a section of Hindus and all Muslims in Kerala eat red meat. "Irachi ularthiathu" is a beef dish cooked with spices.[11]

References
  1. "Of Kerala Egypt and the Spice link". The Hindu. Thiruvananthapuram, India. 28 January 2014.
  2. Striving for sustainability, environmental stress and democratic initiatives in Kerala, p. 79; ISBN 81-8069-294-9, Srikumar Chattopadhyay, Richard W. Franke; Year: 2006.
  3. Social mobility in Kerala Kanjirathara Chandy Alexander
  4. Hughes, Tammy (22 August 2014). "730 bars to shut in alcohol ban". London Evening Standard. p. 25.
  5. Zero Oil South Indian Cook Book. Dr. Bimal Chhajer. 21 February 2008. ISBN 9788128805127.
  6. India, [report prepared by] Planning Commission, Government of (2008). Kerala development report. New Delhi: Academic Foundation. ISBN 978-8171885947.
  7. Bhandari Laveesh (2009). Indian States at a Glance 2008–09: Performance, Facts and Figures – Kerala. Pearson Education India. pp. 36–. ISBN 978-81-317-2340-1. Retrieved 26 June 2012.
  8. Chatterjee, editors: Ashok K. Dutt, H.N. Misra, Meera (2008). Explorations in applied geography (Eastern economy ed.). New Delhi: Asoke K. Ghosh, Prentice-Hall of India, Private Limited. ISBN 9788120333840.CS1 maint: extra text: authors list (link)
  9. Sabhnani, Dhara Vora (14 June 2019). "Straight from the Malabar Coast". The Hindu. Retrieved 26 January 2021.
  10. Kurian, Shijo (2 July 2014). "Flavours unlimited from the Malabar coast". The Hindu. Retrieved 26 January 2021.
  11. Marks, Gil (2010), Encyclopedia of Jewish Food, John Wiley and sons
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