Kodaikanal

It is not known who first used this name or what they intended it to mean.

The word Kodaikanal is an amalgamation of two words: kodai and kanal. The Tamil language has at least four possible interpretations of the name Kodaikanal. By pronouncing the first syllable of Kodaikanal with a long Tamil 'O', as in koe-dei, it means "summer", whilst the final two syllables kanal can mean "to see", rendering Kodaikanal as a "place to see in summer". Kodaikanal is a summer forest, and it is a place that the first missionaries used as a refuge to escape the overbearing and mosquito-ridden heat of the plains — a place that they would have counted on seeing in the summer.

Boating in Kodaikanal

Kanal, in Tamil, can mean dense or closed forest. In this case, Kodai can have at least four meanings. By pronouncing Kodai with the long Tamil 'o' and short 'e', Ko-dai means "the end". Kodaikanal could mean "the end of the forest" which makes poetic and geographical sense — Kodaikanal is at the crown of the Palani Hills and is effectively surrounded and protected by thick forests.[3]

By pronouncing Kodai with the short Tamil 'o' (as in Kodi), it means "creepers" or vines. Kodaikanal could mean "forest of creepers" or the forest of vines. "The forest of creepers" is thought to be the English language meaning given in 1885 during the early western habitation of the place[5] and is still accepted.[6]

By pronouncing Kodai with a short Tamil 'o', and a long 'e', it might be interpreted to mean "gift", rendering "Kodaikanal" as "gift of the forest". Keeping the short Tamil 'o' but adding a long 'a', Kodai could be understood as the Tamil word for umbrella, where Kodaikanal is a forest fashioned like a protecting umbrella.[3]

Another Tamil word for creeper or vine is valli, the honey collecting daughter of the chief of the Veddas mountain tribe. The chief and his wife prayed to the Mountain God for a girl and their prayers were answered when the chief found a newborn girl child during a hunting expedition. As she was found among creeper plants, they named her Valli and she grew up as princess of the tribe in Kurinji and became the consort of lord Murugan.[7] The romantic traditions of Murugan in Sangam literature are thus associated with the name Kodaikanal.

The earliest residents of Kodaikanal were the Palaiyar tribal people. The earliest specific references to Kodaikanal and the Palani Hills are found in Tamil Sangam literature of the early Common era.[8] Modern Kodaikanal was established by American Christian missionaries and British bureaucrats in 1845, as a refuge from the high temperatures and tropical diseases of the plains.[4] In the 20th century a few elite Indians came to realise the value of this enchanting hill station and started relocating here.[9]

Tourism has been impacted by industrial pollution issues including the closure of a mercury factory owned by Unilever's Indian subsidiary Hindustan Unilever after evidence of widespread mercury pollution.[10] To date no proper clean-up operation has been mounted.

1955 topographic map of Kodaikanal

The town of Kodaikanal sits on a plateau above the southern escarpment of the upper Palani Hills at 2,133 metres (6,998 ft), between the Parappar and Gundar Valleys. These hills form the eastward spur of the Western Ghats on the western side of South India. It has an irregular basin as its heartland, the centre of which is now Kodaikanal Lake a 5 kilometres (3.1 mi) circumference manmade lake. A few kilometres away from Kodaikanal a small village named Vattakanal is located in the Dindigul District on the southern tip of the upper Palani hills in the state of Tamil Nadu, along the eastern coast of the Western Ghats.

Vattakanal is better known as 'Vatta', which means circle and by most or 'Little Israel' by the villagers that observe a large number of Israeli tourists who flock there from October onwards.

Meadows and grasslands cover the hillsides. Gigantic eucalyptus trees and shola forests flourish in the valleys. Mighty rocks and cascading streams lie above the valleys. There are many high waterfalls and ubiquitous gardens and flower beds in bloom.[9]

Pine forest in Kodaikanal

Kodaikanal is known for its rich flora. Of the big trees, cypress, eucalyptus and acacia are the dominant varieties. Pear trees are numerous and the fruits are of high quality. Competing with the fruit trees are the flowering ones, mainly rhododendron and magnolia. Large dahlias of different hues are the main attraction of Bryant Park, situated close to the Kodai lake. Water lilies in the park's pond are another pleasing sight. The town abounds in beautiful yellow wild flowers.[11]

North of the town, high hills that slope down into the villages of Pallangi and Vilpatti stand guard. On the east the hill slopes less abruptly into the lower Palnis. A precipitous escarpment facing the Cumbum Valley is on the south. On the west is a plateau leading to Manjampatti Valley, Indira Gandhi National Park, the Anamalai Hills and the main body of the Western Ghats of Kerala border.

Climate

Kodaikanal has a monsoon-influenced subtropical highland climate (Cfb, according to the Köppen climate classification, with a Cwb tendency). The temperatures are cool throughout the year due to the high elevation of the city.

Climate data for Kodaikanal (1981–2010, extremes 1901–2012)
Month	Jan	Feb	Mar	Apr	May	Jun	Jul	Aug	Sep	Oct	Nov	Dec	Year
Record high °C (°F)	25.4 (77.7)	24.7 (76.5)	26.7 (80.1)	26.1 (79.0)	27.8 (82.0)	25.1 (77.2)	23.9 (75.0)	22.9 (73.2)	22.8 (73.0)	22.2 (72.0)	23.4 (74.1)	24.5 (76.1)	27.8 (82.0)
Average high °C (°F)	18.4 (65.1)	19.4 (66.9)	20.7 (69.3)	21.1 (70.0)	21.4 (70.5)	19.6 (67.3)	18.5 (65.3)	18.5 (65.3)	18.8 (65.8)	18.0 (64.4)	17.0 (62.6)	17.3 (63.1)	19.1 (66.4)
Average low °C (°F)	8.6 (47.5)	8.9 (48.0)	10.5 (50.9)	11.9 (53.4)	12.8 (55.0)	12.2 (54.0)	11.7 (53.1)	11.6 (52.9)	11.4 (52.5)	11.0 (51.8)	10.1 (50.2)	9.0 (48.2)	10.8 (51.4)
Record low °C (°F)	2.7 (36.9)	3.8 (38.8)	4.4 (39.9)	6.1 (43.0)	7.8 (46.0)	5.0 (41.0)	8.6 (47.5)	8.3 (46.9)	8.3 (46.9)	5.6 (42.1)	3.9 (39.0)	2.8 (37.0)	2.7 (36.9)
Average rainfall mm (inches)	37.9 (1.49)	37.5 (1.48)	55.7 (2.19)	127.5 (5.02)	126.4 (4.98)	89.8 (3.54)	111.6 (4.39)	128.5 (5.06)	216.9 (8.54)	259.0 (10.20)	239.9 (9.44)	137.5 (5.41)	1,568.3 (61.74)
Average rainy days	2.3	1.7	3.6	7.5	8.9	8.7	9.2	8.7	12.6	14.2	11.1	6.6	94.9
Average relative humidity (%) (at 17:30 IST)	73	70	67	78	82	86	86	86	87	87	87	79	81
Mean monthly sunshine hours	248.0	220.4	235.6	210.0	192.2	117.0	99.2	114.7	114.0	124.0	132.0	158.1	1,965.2
Mean daily sunshine hours	8.0	7.8	7.6	7.0	6.2	3.9	3.2	3.7	3.8	4.0	4.4	5.1	5.4
Source: India Meteorological Department (sun 1971–2000)[12][13][14]

Morning mist in Kodaikanal at sunrise

According to the 2011 census, Kodaikanal had a population of 36,501 with a sex-ratio of 1,004 females for every 1,000 males, much above the national average of 929.[15] A total of 3,893 were under the age of six, constituting 1,945 males and 1,948 females. Scheduled Castes and Scheduled Tribes accounted for 19.86% and .28% of the population respectively. The average literacy of the city was 79.78%, compared to the national average of 72.99%.[15] The city had a total of 9442 households. There were a total of 14,103 workers, comprising 163 cultivators, 744 main agricultural labourers, 130 in household industries, 12,118 other workers, 948 marginal workers, 10 marginal cultivators, 51 marginal agricultural labourers, 34 marginal workers in household industries and 853 other marginal workers.[16] As per the religious census of 2011, Kodaikanal had 48.84% Hindus, 12.0% Muslims, 38.69% Christians, 0.02% Sikhs, 0.22% Buddhists, 0.04% Jains, 0.15% following other religions and 0.04% following no religion or did not indicate any religious preference.[17]

Poombarai Village and terraced farming in Kodaikanal

The economy of Kodaikanal predominantly depends on tourism. The number of tourists increased from two million in 1999 to 3.2 million in 2009.[18] The town's infrastructure changes every year in preparation for the peak tourist season. Major roads are converted into one-way lanes to regulate the constant inflow of traffic and special police are brought in for the safety of the tourists and protection of local businesses. Hotels are often fully booked during the high season, and remain virtually empty during the off-season. Due to the rapid development of nearby cities such as Madurai, Palani and Coimbatore the town is learning to deal with year-round tourism.

Hill view of Kodaikanal from Coaker's Walk

Plums, pears, chile peppers, carrots, cauliflower, cabbage, garlic, and onions are cultivated by terrace farmers in surrounding villages. Most are trucked to other parts of India and some are sold in the local market. Popular tourist souvenirs include handcrafts, home-made chocolates, postcards, and Eucalyptus oil.

Mist covering Kodaikanal Lake

Due to its relatively unpolluted image, various locations[19] in Kodaikanal are used for movie shoots. Some examples are Jo Jeeta Wohi Sikandar[20] though depicted as Dehradun, the Tamil movie Guna, Manmadhan Ambu, and Thenali.

The major medical facilities are KHMS Hospital, Van Allen Hospital, the Government Hospital, and the Prana Spa. These hospitals treat patients with common ailments and injuries and perform child delivery and care, but are not equipped with modern medical equipment for complicated diagnoses and surgery.

KHMS hospital was formed in 2009 to provide quality health care to residents and visitors.

In April 1915, Dr. Van Allen raised funds to construct the first unit of the hospital at the entrance of Coaker's walk. It was named after him. Its facilities have been updated and now it has an X-ray machine, well equipped pathological lab, and operation theatre with blood transfusion facilities.

The Government Hospital is situated on the hillside near Rock Cottage on Lower Shola Road. It was a small municipal hospital until 1927. Now it has X-ray, dental, and maternity wards and other facilities.

There are many educational institutions in Kodaikanal. Kodaikanal comes under the Batlagundu educational district. The head office for the educational district serving from Batlagundu government boys higher secondary school.

• Kodaikanal Christian College
• Kodai International Business School
• Kodaikanal Institute of Technology

• Mother Teresa Women's University

There are many Hindu temples in Kodaikanal including the Durgai Amman Kovil, Kurinji Andavar Kovil, Mariamman Kovil, Observatory Murugan Kovil and Vinayagar Kovil. The Muslim mosques are Ellis Villa, Munjikal, Naidupuram, Observatory,Perumal malai and Anna nagar. There is an active community of Tibetan Buddhist refugees.

The Kuzhanthai Velappar temple (Kulandai Velayudha Swami Tirukkovil) has three thousand years of history and was consecrated by Bhogar. The idol is made of Dashabashanam (10 metal alloys). This temple comes under Palani Devasthanam. Every year Poombarai celebrates the Ther Thiruvizha procession for Lord Muruga. This temple was built by the Chera dynasty and still holds 3000-year-old inscriptions.

Kodaikanal Golf Club

Kodaikanal has several clubs and civil society organizations operating for social, charitable and environmental goals. Established clubs in Kodaikanal are the Kodaikanal Lions Club (est. 1985) under the jurisdiction of Lions Clubs International (district 324B); Kodaikanal Boat Club (est. 1890) with nearly 650 permanent members; Kodaikanal Golf Club (est. 1895) with over 600 members and an 18-hole golf course, spread over 58 hectares (143 acres); the Indian Club (est. 1915) on Poet Thyagarajar Road; and the Rotary Club of Kodaikanal.[22]

In 1890, the Kodaikanal Missionary Union (KMU) was formed to enable missionaries of the various denominations to come together for recreation and to develop a mission strategy and outreach in cooperation with each other. In 1923 it built an Edwardian style clubhouse with large central hall for social events and afternoon teas, six tennis courts, a reading room, and other spaces for meetings.[23] With the decline of missionary activity in India, the KMU was wound up in the 1980s, and the property was turned over to Kodaikanal International School. The KMU library with many valuable old books besides newer materials, is still functioning in one room, and provides something of a social venue. The valuable original KMU archive materials have been incorporated into the archives of the school, which has hired an archivist and is in process of converting the whole original KMU building into an archive and display centre for the school and the community.[24]

Kodaikanal lake View showing Mount Perumal, boat house, Carlton Hotel, Kodaikanal International School, fish hatchery, and Lake Road

Kodaikanal has several social service societies which promote local trade and increase employment of rural villagers in the town's periphery by participating in its tourism fuelled growth. These include the Kodaikanal People Development Group (KOPDEG) which has been successful in providing employment for marginalized women and marketing their products. The Made-in-India tagged products from Kopedeg are unique to Kodaikanal and are targeted at foreign tourists who regularly buy them as souvenirs.[25]

The Cottage Crafts Shop at Anna Salai is run by the voluntary organisation Coordinating Council for Social Concerns in Kodai (CORSOK). They sell goods crafted by development groups and uses the commission charged to help the needy.[26]

In 1994 the Potter's Shed was inaugurated. This pottery and craft Shop in Kodaikanal has made and sold hundreds of thousands of fine pieces of locally made pottery. All profits from this business are contributed to the Bethania Kids Center For Children with Disabilities.[27]

The Kodaikanal Lake Protection Council and Vattakkanal Organization for Youth, Community and Environment (VOYCE) are active in preserving Kodaikanal's environment. Plastic bags are banned and almost all shops and roadside vendors heed the rule and use recycled paper bags in fear of social reprisal. Local hotels have also participated in improving the environment by placing garbage cans all across the town, with their prominent donated by signs acting as silent salesmen.[28]

Kodaikanal lake

Kodaikanal has several scenic natural attractions which are enjoyed by its visitors and make it a popular romantic destination for newlyweds. Many young people come for bike trips and leisure. It is also famous for home made chocolates and eucalyptus oil.

These are described in order of distance from the bus-stand.

Upper lake view in Kodaikanal

Kodaikanal Lake is an artificial, roughly star-shaped 45-hectare (110-acre) lake built in 1863. It is Kodaikanal's most popular geographic landmark and tourist attraction. Rowboats and pedalos can be hired at the Kodaikanal Boat Club. Horses and bicycles can be hired beside the lake for short periods. The 5 kilometres (3.1 mi) path that skirts the periphery of this lake is a favourite walk for locals and tourists alike.

Bryant Park

Bryant Park: Just east of the lake and 500 metres (1,600 ft) from the bus stand is a well maintained 8.3-hectare (20.5-acre) botanical garden. The park was planned and built in 1908 by a forest officer from Madurai, H.D. Bryant, and named after him. With 325 species of trees, shrubs, and cacti, the park is a rainbow of flowers during the peak season. A large section is dedicated to nearly 740 varieties of roses.

Flower show in Bryant Park

There is an 1857 eucalyptus tree and a Bodhi tree which adds a religious significance to the park. Ornamental plants are cultivated in a nursery for sale. The park organizes horticultural exhibits and flower shows every summer, to coincide with the peak season. The entrance fee to the park is nominal, and it is open all year.[29]

Coaker's Walk (1900)

View from Coaker's Walk

Coaker's Walk, 500 metres (1,600 ft) from the bus-stand, constructed by Lt. Coaker in 1872, is a 1-kilometre (3,300 ft) paved pedestrian path running along the edge of steep slopes on the southern side of Kodai. The walk, winding around Mount Nebo, starts in front of the Van Allen hospital, running parallel to the Van Allen Hospital Road, and joins the main road beside St.Peter's Church, providing a panoramic view of the plains. On a clear day one can view as far as Dolphin's Nose in the south, the valley of the Pambar River in the southeast, Periyakulam town and even the city of Madurai. A fascinating rare phenomenon called the Brocken spectre can be witnessed, when a person can see his shadow on the clouds with a rainbow halo. This occurs when the sun is behind the viewer and clouds and mist are to the front. There is an observatory with a telescope halfway along the walk. The entrance fee to the walkway is nominal and it is open all year.

Poombarai Village (Kudhanthai Velappar Temple) is 15 kilometres (9.3 mi) from the bus-stand. In Poombarai village there is a temple of Lord Muruga. The village is fully covered by reserve forest. The final approach to this quiet area is a gently climbing foot-path.

Poombarai village

Green Valley View (formerly called Suicide Point), 5.5 kilometres (3.4 mi) from the bus-stand and near the golf course, has a panoramic view of the plains and a sheer drop of 1,500 metres (4,900 ft) overlooking the Vaigai Dam to the south. The stairway leading up to it is highly commercialized and lined with rows of shops to tempt tourists.[30]

Pine forests: In 1906, with a view to growing valuable timber, H.D. Bryant started the Kodaikanal pine plantations in the south-west of Kodaikanal.[31]

Shembaganur Museum of Natural History, 6 kilometres (3.7 mi) from the bus-stand, founded in 1895, is open to the public (except Tuesdays) for viewing their outstanding taxidermy collection of more than 500 species of animals, birds and insects and a living collection of over 300 exotic orchid species. The museum is affiliated with Loyola College in Chennai and exhibits artifacts of the ancient Palaiyar tribespeople whose descendants still live in these hills.[32]

Kodaikanal Solar Observatory

Kodaikanal Solar Observatory, 6 kilometres (3.7 mi) from the bus-stand on Observatory Road, at 2,343 metres (7,687 ft) is the highest location near Kodai. The first observations were commenced here in 1901.[33] Former Director John Evershed discovered the phenomenon of radial motion in sunspots, now known as the Evershed effect. The Kodaikanal Terrestrial Telescope can view a grand panorama including Sothupparai Dam, Vaigai Dam, Periyakulam and Varaha river. This Indian Institute of Astrophysics facility has a comprehensive astronomical science museum with organized public tours, access to the astronomy library, and scheduled night-time telescopic sky viewing. It is open daily to the public during peak season, and a few hours each Friday the rest of the year.[34]

Pillar Rock view with and without mist

Pillar Rocks, 8 kilometres (5.0 mi) from the bus-stand, is a set of three giant rock pillars which stand 122 metres (400 ft) high.[35] Managed by the Tamil Nadu Forest Department, The viewpoint can be crowded but is not commercialized. There is an excellent public garden adjacent to the viewpoint.

Pillar Rocks

Guna caves,[36] made popular by the Tamil movie Gunaa, previously called Devil's Kitchen, are deep bat-infested chambers between the three gigantic boulders that are the Pillar Rocks. The deep narrow ravines of the caves are now closed to public due to the deaths of twelve youths there.[37] These dangerous caves are highly protected now, and tourists can see sections of the cave system from afar.[38] In the late 1970s the inside of the caves was well photographed.[39]

Silver Cascade Falls

Silver Cascade, 8 kilometres (5.0 mi) from Kodaikanal at a wide bend in the long and winding Laws Ghat Road, at altitude 1,800 metres (5,900 ft), is a 55-metre (180 ft) waterfall formed from the outflow of Kodaikanal Lake.[40] This impressive waterfall is a popular stop for first-time visitors. There are a few souvenir and fruit vendors and many monkeys here. There is also a smaller but more serene waterfall below the bridge which crosses the stream here.

Silver Cascade Waterfall is formed from the outflow of Kodaikanal Lake.

Dolphin's Nose

Dolphin's Nose, 8 kilometres (5.0 mi) from the bus stand, is a flat rock projecting over a chasm 2,000 metres (6,600 ft) deep. It is an undisturbed area 1 kilometre (0.62 mi) down a steep rocky trail beginning soon after Pambar Bridge. Views of steep rocky escarpments rising from the plains can be seen. The old village of Vellagavi can be reached through a rugged bridle path here. A short paved walkway leads from the road here to Pambar Falls (which is also locally addressed as 'Liril Falls' after the famous Liril Soap advertisement filmed in 1985).

Kurinji Andavar Murugan temple, 4 kilometres (2.5 mi) from the bus-stand, is famous for its Kurinji flower which blossoms in the area only once every 12 years. The deity here is called Sri Kurinji Easwaran, who is Lord Murugan. This temple was built in 1936 by a European woman, who on coming to Ceylon, converted to Hinduism. She changed her name to Leelavathi and married Ponnambalam Ramanathan. She is also known as Lady Ramanathan. This temple was handed over to Arulmighu Dhandayuthapani Swamy Thiru Kovil, Palani by Devi Prasad Bhaskaran (also known as Padmini, niece and adopted daughter of S Natesan Pillai, son-in-law of Lady Ramanathan) and her husband R. Bhaskaran.

Berijam Lake is surrounded by nature at a distance of around 20 km (12 mi) from Kodaikanal. Boating is prohibited as the lake is a source of water for villages. Forest department permission is required and a limited number of vehicles (up to 80) are allowed to enter the forest area where the lake is situated. Entry is restricted into the Berijam Lake area to between 9.30 a.m. and 3 p.m. Bison, deer, panthers, and snakes are often spotted in this area. The fire tower, Silent Valley, Medicine Forest, and Lake View are other attractions around the lake.

To enter into the Berijam Lake permission must be obtained from the Forest Department. Usually, they give permission around 8 a.m. every day except Tuesdays. They give permission to about 80 to 100 vehicles per day and collect an entry fee of around Rs.150 depending upon the vehicle.

Psilocybin mushrooms which produce hallucinogenic effects when consumed, and other poisonous mushrooms grow around Berijam. Medicine Forest has a certain species of trees whose fragrance is believed to have hallucinogenic effects.

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  Boating in Kodaikanal Lake
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  Kodaikanal Hills as seen from Roadside.
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  Bryant Park
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  Colorful dresses on Coaker's Walk
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  Upper Lake View, Kodaikanal, Tamilnadu, India
• 
  View from Coaker's Walk, Kodaikanal, Tamilnadu, India

• Charlotte Chandler Wyckoff: Kodaikanal: 1845-1945. London Mission Press, Nagercoil, Travancore, Indien. 1945.
• Nora Mitchell: The Indian Hill Station Kodaikanal. Research paper, University of Chicago, Department of Geography, No. 141. Chicago Ill., 1972.
• Volker Winkler: Kodaikanal. Land of the Clouds. Hillsboro Press, Franklin (Tennessee) 1999.

Wikimedia Commons has media related to Kodaikanal.

• "Kodaikanal" . Encyclopædia Britannica. 15 (11th ed.). 1911.

Wikivoyage has a travel guide for Kodaikanal.