Agadir

Agadir is one of the major urban centres of Morocco. The municipality of Agadir recorded a population of 924,000 in the 2014 Moroccan census.[1] According to the 2004 census, there were 346,106 inhabitants in that year[2] and the population of the Prefecture of Agadir-Ida Outanane was 487,954 inhabitants.[2]

Three languages are spoken in the city: Tashelhit (first language of the majority), Moroccan Arabic, and French.

The city was destroyed by an earthquake in 1960; it has been completely rebuilt with mandatory seismic standards. It is now the largest seaside resort in Morocco, where foreign tourists and many residents are attracted by an unusually mild year-round climate. Since 2010 it has been well served by low-cost flights and a motorway from Tangier. The city attracts all walks of life; it has had an annual growth rate of over 6% per year in housing demand while housing production barely exceeds 3.4%.

The mild winter climate (January average midday temperature 20.5 °C/69 °F)[3] and good beaches have made it a major "winter sun" destination for northern Europeans.

Very little remains of the Phoenician language, but numismatic inscriptions record that they knew the site as a Gadir or Agadir (Phoenician: ‬𐤀𐤂𐤃𐤓, ʾgdr), meaning "The Wall", "The Compound", or (by metonymy) "The Stronghold". Borrowed by the Berber languages, this became the agadir (Tamazight: "wall"; Shilha: "fortified granary") common in North African place names. (The Israeli town Gedera shares a similar etymology, as well as the Moroccan city Agadir). The Carthaginians continued to use this name and all subsequent names have derived from it. The Greek cothon refers to a Carthaginian type of fortified basin that can be seen at ancient sites such as Motya.[4][5][6][7]

Founded around 1104 BC as Gadir or Agadir by Phoenicians from Tyre[8][9] Little history is recorded on Agadir before the 12th century.

The oldest cartographic mention of Agadir is on a map from 1325: at the approximate location of the modern city there was an indication of a place called Porto Mesegina, after the name of a Berber tribe already mentioned in the 12th century, the Mesguina, that is to say the Ksima.

At the end of the medieval period, Agadir was a town of some notoriety. The name itself, Agadir al-harba, was attested to for the first time in 1510.[10]

In 1505, the Portuguese, who were already installed on the Moroccan coast, founded a trading post and a fort at the foot of the hill to the sea, Santa Cruz do Cabo de Aguer on the site of the now-vanished neighborhood of Founti (named after the Portuguese word fonte meaning fountain) under a governor.

Quickly, the Portuguese were exposed to the hostility of the tribes of the region. From 1530, they were blockaded in Santa Cruz. Portuguese weakness showed itself on 12 March 1541 when Sherif Saâdien Mohammed ash-Sheikh captured the fortress of Santa Cruz de Aguer. Six hundred Portuguese survivors were taken prisoner, including the governor, Guterre de Monroy, and his daughter, Dona Mecia. The captives were redeemed by the holy men mostly from Portugal. Dona Mecia, whose husband was killed during the battle, became the wife of Sheikh Mohammed ash-Sheikh but died in childbirth in 1544. In the same year, Mohammed ash-Sheikh released the Governor Guterre de Monroy, whom he had befriended.[11]

The Portuguese possessions in Morocco, acquired between 1505 and 1520, were regressing. After the loss of Agadir, the Portuguese were obliged to abandon Safi and Azemmour. Morocco was beginning to be less important for Portugal which now turned to India and Brazil. After 1550, the Portuguese no longer held anything in Morocco other than Mazagan (now El Jadida), Tangier and Ceuta.

The story of the Portuguese presence (from the installation in 1505 until the fall on 12 March 1541) is described in manuscript (published for the first time, with French translation, by Pierre de Cenival in 1934) entitled "Este He O Origem e Comeco e Cabo da Villa de Santa Cruz do Cabo de Gue D'Agoa de Narba", written by anonymous who was captured in 12-III-34 and was five years imprisoned in Taroudannt (cf. "Santa Cruz do Cabo de Gue d'Agoa de Narba – Estudo e Crónica", Joao Marinho e Santos, José Manuel Azevedo e Silva e Mohammed Nadir, bilingual edition, Viseu 2007).

In 1572, the Casbah was built on top of the hill by Moulay Abdallah al-Ghalib, successor to Mohammed ash-Sheikh. It was now called Agadir N'Ighir, literally: fortified granary of the hill in Tachelhit.[12]

In the 17th century, during the reign of the Berber dynasty of Tazerwalt, Agadir was a harbour of some importance, expanding its trade with Europe. There was, however, no real port nor a wharf. Agadir traded mainly in sugar, wax, copper, hides and skins.[13] Europeans brought their manufactured goods, particularly weapons and textiles. Under the reign of Sultan Moulay Ismail (1645–1727) and his successors, the trade with France, until then an active partner regressed to the English and the Dutch.

The entrance of the Casbah

In 1731, the town was completely destroyed by an earthquake.[14] The harbour of Agadir was then ordered to be closed when Essaouira was established farther north.

In 1746, the Dutch set up a trading post at the foot of the Casbah under the authority of the Sultan, and undoubtedly participated in the restoration of the city. Above the door of the Casbah, the Dutch inscription can still be seen with its transcription in Arabic: "Vreest God ende eert den Kooning", which means "Fear God and honour the King", and the date 1746.

After a long period of prosperity during the reigns of the Saadian and Alawite dynasties, Agadir declined from 1760 because of the pre-eminence given to the competing port of Essaouira by the Alawite Sultan Mohammed ben Abdallah who wanted to punish the Souss for rebelling against his authority. This decline lasted a century and a half. In 1789, a European traveler gave a brief description of Agadir: "It is now a ghost town, there are no more than a few houses and these are crumbling into ruins".

In 1881, Sultan Moulay Hassan reopened the harbour to trade in order to supply the expeditions he planned in the south. These expeditions, which were to reassert his authority over the Souss tribes and counter the plans of English and Spanish, were held in 1882 and 1886.[15]

Map of Agadir in 1885 by Jules Erckmann

In 1884, Charles de Foucauld described in Reconnaissance au Maroc (Reconnaissance in Morocco) his rapid passage to Agadir from the east:

I walk along the shore to Agadir Irir. The road passes below the city, half-way between it and Founti: Founti is a miserable hamlet, a few fishermen's huts; Agadir, despite its white enclosure which gives it the air of a city is, I am told, a poor village depopulated and without trade.[16]

On the pretext of a call for help from German companies in the valley of the Souss, Germany decided on 1 July 1911, to extend its interests in Morocco and assert a claim on the country. It sent to the Bay of Agadir, (which harbour was, until 1881, closed to foreign trade) the SMS Panther which was quickly joined by the cruiser Berlin. Very strong international reaction, particularly from Great Britain, surprised Germany and triggered the Agadir Crisis between France and Germany. War threatened. After tough negotiations, a Franco-German treaty was finally signed on 4 November 1911, giving a free hand to France, who would be able to establish its protectorate over Morocco in return for giving up some colonies in Africa. It was only then that the gunboat Panther and the cruiser Berlin left the bay of Agadir.

Due to a miscalculation, the German sales representative Hermann Wilberg, who was sent to provide the pretext for the intervention, only arrived at Agadir three days after the Panther arrived.

In 1913, the cities (Agadir N'Ighir and Founti) totalled less than a thousand inhabitants. On 15 June 1913 French troops landed in Agadir. In 1916, the first pier was built near Founti – a simple jetty, later known as the "Portuguese jetty", which remained until the end of the 20th century. After 1920, under the French protectorate, a port was built and the city saw its first development with the construction of the old Talborjt district located on the plateau at the foot of the hill. Two years later, beside Talborjt along the faultline of the river Tildi construction of the popular district of Yahchech began.

Around 1930, Agadir was an important stop for the French airmail service Aéropostale and was frequented by Saint-Exupéry and Mermoz.

In the years from 1930, a modern central city began to be built according to the plans of the urban planner Henri Prost, director of the Urban Planning Department of the Protectorate, and his deputy Albert Laprade: a horseshoe layout based on the waterfront[17] around a large avenue perpendicular to the waterfront – the Avenue Lyautey, since renamed Avenue du Général Kettani. In the 1950s, urban development continued under the direction of the Director of Urban Planning Morocco, Michel Ecochard.

After 1950 and the opening of the new commercial port, the city grew with fishing, canning, agriculture, and mining. It also began to open up to tourism thanks to its climate and beautiful hotels. Several years later from 1950 to 1956 Agadir organised the Grand Prix of Agadir[18] and, from 1954 to 1956, the Moroccan Grand Prix.

In 1959, the port was visited by the yacht of the Greek shipping magnate Aristotle Onassis and his guest, Winston Churchill.[19]

Agadir in 1960, following the earthquake

By 1960, Agadir numbered over 40,000 residents when at 15 minutes to midnight on 29 February 1960, it was again almost totally destroyed by an earthquake of magnitude 5.7 on the Richter scale that lasted 15 seconds, burying the city and killing more than a third of the population.[20] The death toll was estimated at 15,000.[21] The earthquake destroyed the ancient Casbah.

On seeing the destruction in Agadir, King Muhammad V of Morocco declared: "If Destiny decided the destruction of Agadir, its rebuilding depends on our Faith and Will."

Agadir after 1960

The current city was rebuilt 1.6 kilometres (1 mi) further south, led by the architects associated with GAMMA, including Jean-François Zevaco, Elie Azagury, Pierre Coldefy, and Claude Verdugo,[22] with consultation from Le Corbusier.[23] Agadir became a large city of over half a million by 2004, with a large port with four basins: the commercial port with a draft of 17 metres, triangle fishing, fishing port, and a pleasure boat port with marina. Agadir was the premier sardine port in the world in the 1980s and has a beach stretching over 10 km with fine seafront promenades. Its climate has 340 days of sunshine per year which allows for swimming all year round. The winter is warm and in summer, haze is common.

With Marrakech, Agadir is a very important centre for tourism to Morocco, and the city is the most important fishing port in the country. Business is also booming with the export of citrus fruit and vegetables produced in the fertile valley of Souss. With its white buildings, wide flowered boulevards, modern hotels and European style cafes, Agadir is world class, active and dynamic. The bay of Agadir and the nearby Bay of Taghazout are among the most beautiful bays in Africa.

Agadir Bay, view from the kasbah

Agadir Marina

Agadir fishing port

Agadir's economy relies mainly on tourism and fisheries. Agricultural activities are based around the city.[24] Agadir has one of the biggest souks in Morocco (Souk Al Ahad )

Fishing port as seen from the Casbah

The fishing port is a major sardine port. The commercial port is also known for its exports of cobalt, manganese, zinc and citrus products. The Avenue du Port, the main artery of the Anza district, is surrounded by canneries and has many popular small restaurants adjacent to the fish market. The city has a cement company called Ciments du Maroc (CIMAR), a subsidiary of the Italian group Italcementi[25] which is in process of being transferred to a new plant 40 kilometres (25 mi) from the city. There is also a shipyard in the port and the only merchant marine school in Morocco.

Agadir is served by Al Massira Airport, 23 kilometres (14 mi) from the city.

The current conurbation of Agadir is actually a combination of four communes:

• the former town of Agadir city
• the urban commune of Anza
• the rural town of Ben Sergao and
• the rural town of Tikiwine[Note 1]

The Casbah

Hill of the old Casbah

The Casbah at Night

The Casbah (Agadir Oufella, Agadir le haut, Agadir N'Ighir, or Agadir de la colline) was, along with Founti by the sea, the oldest district of Agadir. An authentic fortress with winding streets and lively, the Casbah was built in 1572 by Moulay Abdallah al-Ghalib. Above the front door; today, the original inscription in Arabic and in English reads: "Fear God and honour the King."

Of this fortress there remains, after the earthquake of 29 February 1960, a restored long high wall that surrounds land that is not buildable. The view, however, is exceptional over the bay of Agadir and the ports. The old people of Agadir remember the famous "Moorish café" of the Casbah and its panoramic view.

The hill bears the inscription in Arabic: "God, Country, King" which, like the walls, is illuminated at night.

La Médina

La Médina

La Médina is a handicrafts space created in 1992 by the Italian artist Coco Polizzi, at Ben Sergao, a district close to Agadir 4.5 kilometres (2.8 mi) from the city centre. Built using techniques of traditional Berber construction, it is a kind of small open-air museum, on five hectares and home to artisan workshops, a museum, individual residences, a small hotel, and an exotic garden.

The Timitar festival, a festival of Amazigh and music from around the world, has been held in Agadir every summer since its inception in July 2004.

The Morocco Movement association is involved in the arts and organizes concerts, exhibitions and meetings in the visual arts, design, music, graphic design, photography, environment and health[31]

Other cultural events in Agadir are:

• Noiz Makerz concert of urban music.
• Breaking South national break-dancing championship
• International Documentary Film Festival in November (FIDADOC)
• Film Festival for immigration
• International Festival of University Theatre of Agadir
• Concert for Tolerance (November)
• Festival of Laughter
• International Salon of Art of Photography (Clubphoto d'Agadir)

Museums

Mosque Loubnan in Agadir

• Musée de Talborjt "La Casbah"
• Musée Bert Flint
• Le Musée des Arts Berberes
• Musee Municipal de Agadir
• La Medina d'Agadir

The city of Agadir has a university: the University Ibn Zohr which includes a Faculty of Science, Faculty of medicine and pharmacy, Faculty of Law, Economics and Social Sciences, the Faculty of Arts and Humanities, and the multi-disciplined Faculty of Ouarzazate.

There are also establishments of higher education such as:

• the National School of Applied Sciences (ENSA)
• the National School of Business and Management (ENCG)
• the Graduate School of Agadir technology (ESTA).

There is an international French school: the French School of Agadir and also public schools: Youssef Ben Tachfine School, Mohammed Reda-Slaoui School, and the Al-Idrissi Technical College.

There is a range of highschools:

• Groupe Scolaire Paul Gauguin Agadir (CLOSED in 2014)
• Groupe Scolaire LE DEFI
• Lycée Lala Meryem Agadir
• Lycée Qualifiant Youssef Ben Tachfine
• Lycée Technique Al Idrissi
• Lycée Al Qalam
• Lycée Al Hanane
• Lycée Français d'Agadir
• Lycée Anoual
• Lycée Zerktouni
• Lycée Mohamed Derfoufi
• Lycée Bader Elouefaq
• Lycée Ibn Maja
• Lycée Mounib

• See Hassania Agadir the Agadir football club and
• stade Adrar, Grand Stadium of Agadir, the new stadium for Agadir.
• Royal Tennis Club of Agadir

The Botola side Hassania Agadir is the local football team of Agadir. They play their home matches at the Adrar stadium.

The Hassan II Golf Trophy and Lalla Meryem Cup golf tournaments of the European Tour and Ladies European Tour are held at the Golf du Palais Royal in Agadir since 2011.

• Hassan Kachloul, former Morocco national football team player, most notably playing for Southampton, Aston Villa and Wolves.
• Abbes Kabbage (died 1 May 1984) was a regional leader of the Istiqlal Party before joining the UNFP in 1960.
• Abdelaziz Lahrech (18 November 1918 – 14 March 1994), the PDI regional leader of the Party for Democracy and Independence
• Mohammed Khair-Eddine (1941–1995), Moroccan writer
• Abdellah Aourik, painter.
• Val Fouad, author of "Agadir", published by Editions Alan Sutton.
• Dominique Strauss-Kahn spent his childhood there from 1951 to 1960.
• Saphia Azzedine, screenwriter and writer, born in 1979 in Agadir[32]
• Jacques Bensimon, Canadian filmmaker, was born in Agadir
• Michel Vieuchange, French adventurer and explorer, died in Agadir in 1930
• Said Aoubraim, Artist photographer
• Hicham Ouazal, Moroccan adventurer and explorer
• Mohamed Bensaid Ait Idder, Moroccan politician and activist
• Issam Chebake – Moroccan footballer
• Walid Azaro - Moroccan footballer
• Jalal Daoudi - Moroccan footballer
• Hicham El Majhad - Moroccan footballer

Agadir beach

Some of the most beautiful beaches in Morocco are located to the north of Agadir. Areas also known for excellent surfing are located near Taghazout village to Cap Ghir. Many smaller and clean beaches are located along this coast. Some of them between Agadir and Essaouira are: Agadir Beach, Tamaounza (12 km), Aitswal Beach, Imouran (17 km), Taghazout (19 km), Bouyirdn (20 km), Timzguida (22 km), Aghroud (30 km), Imiouadar (27 km).[33]

• The view of the city and the bay from Agadir Oufella (Casbah)
• Bert Flint Museum on Boulevard Mohammed V
• Valley of the Birds, a pleasant bird park stretching along the Avenue of Administrations, between Boulevard Hassan II and 20 August
• The garden of Ibn Zaidoun
• Mohammed V Mosque, on the Boulevard President Kennedy
• Souk el Had
• The little train of Agadir: circuit around the city
• Amazigh (Berber) Heritage Museum at the Ayt Souss Square
• The garden of Olhão or "Garden of Portugal" and its memorial museum in Talborjt
• The marina with its Moorish architecture and shops
• Loubnane mosque
• Wall of commemoration[34]

• 1934: Le Grand Jeu by Jacques Feyder
• 1954–1955: Oasis by Yves Allégret
• 1969: Du soleil plein les yeux by Michel Boisrond
• 1988: Y'a bon les blancs by Marco Ferreri
• 2006: Days of Glory by Rachid Bouchareb[36]
• 2009: Les Filles du désert by Hubert Besson, an episode of the television series Plus belle la vie
• 2011 Agadir Bombay by Myriam Bakir

Agadir has eight sister cities[37][38]

• Mar del Plata, Argentina
• Miami, United States
• Oakland, United States
• Olhão, Portugal
• Nantes, France
• Stavanger, Norway
• Shiraz, Iran
• Vigan, Philippines

Cooperation Pact:

• Lyon, France

Agadir is also one of the first names of the city of Tlemcen in Algeria.

Agadir is referenced in the Mike Batt song "Ride to Agadir".

• Al Massira Airport

Wikimedia Commons has media related to Agadir.

Wikivoyage has a travel guide for Agadir.

• Agadir IdaOutanane Facebook Page
• Official Visit Morocco website
• Agadir berbers Portal
• Agadir Live Camera
• "Agadir" . New International Encyclopedia. 1905.