Pinkham Notch

The weather in the area varies by altitude and the orientation of the land. A weather station has operated at around 2,000 feet since 1930.

The floor of Pinkham Notch, looking toward Mount Washington

The lowest elevations of Pinkham Notch are occupied by a northern hardwood forest. This forest type is primarily deciduous and consists mostly of sugar maple, American beech, and yellow birch.[11] There is also a proliferation of understory and forest floor plants; common examples include wild sarsaparilla, painted trillium, hobblebush, and Indian cucumber-root.[12]

The northern hardwood forest also contains the greatest diversity of animal life in the notch.[13] Mammals include chipmunks, raccoons, white-tailed deer, black bears, and moose.[13] There are also a large number of birds in this forest; frequently seen are red-eyed vireos, hermit thrushes, and ovenbirds.[13] Amphibians are also found in the northern hardwood forest. Red efts, the terrestrial stage of development for the red-spotted newt, congregate in large numbers after heavy rains; also present are American toads, spring peepers, and wood frogs.[13]

At around 2,000 feet (610 m), species from higher forest zones begin to mix with the northern hardwoods in what is known as the "transition zone". As elevation within this zone increases, species from the lower hardwood forest begin to drop out. By 2,500 feet (760 m), yellow birch is the only deciduous species that remains, and the forest becomes a spruce-fir forest.[14]

As elevation increases, the forest is subjected to colder temperatures, increased moisture, and acidic, infertile soils. As a result, conifers, or "softwoods" become the dominant species. Two trees, red spruce and balsam fir, are present throughout this zone, with paper birch, striped maple and mountain ash present in its lower levels.[15] Like the hardwood forest below it, the spruce-fir forest also holds understory plants; commonly found are wood sorrel, Indian pipes, Canada mayflowers, and bluebead lilies.[15] Fungi are also common in the moist environment.

Most of the animals in the spruce-fir forest have ranges that extend into the balsam fir forest higher up.[16] Warblers are abundant; more than ten species exist in this forest type.[16] Other common birds include brown-capped chickadees, spruce grouse, and yellow-capped woodpeckers. Mammals include the red squirrel and the pine marten.[16]

As elevation continues to increase, only the hardiest trees remain in the forest, which is composed almost exclusively of balsam fir.[17] Most of the understory plants and animals from the upper spruce-fir zone, however, can be found in this forest. Moisture causes nutrients to be stripped from the soil and brought to lower elevations, and decomposition takes place at a rate that is too slow to replenish them.[17]

In the upper reaches of the balsam fir zone, winds and temperatures are extreme enough to force the trees into stunted, "bonsai-like" shapes. Known as krummholz, from the German word for "crooked wood", trees in this area are often bent into bizarre shapes by the combined effects of wind, temperature, and airborne ice particles.[17] Branches that are perpendicular to the prevailing winds are often killed, leaving "flag trees" that point in the direction of the wind.[17] Eventually, conditions become extreme enough to prevent any tree growth; the elevation at which this occurs is known as tree line, and usually occurs at around 4,500 ft (1,400 m) in the White Mountains, depending on wind exposure.[18]

On the highest slopes of the west wall of the notch, trees are unable to grow, and an "alpine zone" of alpine-Arctic vegetation exists.[19] Vegetation in this zone tends to be lichens, sedges or small, low-lying plants that can resist the constant exposure to the wind. Most plants in this area are perennial; the growing season is far too short to allow for annuals.

Alpine plants usually occur in communities spaced between barren talus slopes. Cushion-shaped Diapensia lapponica usually grows in communities in the windiest areas, and in less exposed sites sedge, heath, snowbank, and alpine bog communities can be found.[20]

Lost Pond in Pinkham Notch

Mount Washington is a common objective, and is often climbed from Pinkham Notch. There are numerous trail approaches from the Appalachian Mountain Club's visitor's center. Although trail distances seem short, the trip to the summit should not be underestimated; most trail approaches involve at least 4,000 vertical feet (1,200 m) of climbing, including an ascent of the rocky summit cone and the boulder-strewn upper slopes.[31] Weather changes very quickly, and one must be prepared for extreme conditions. The Tuckerman Ravine Trail is the most popular trail in the notch, ascending to the summit via the headwall of Tuckerman Ravine.[32] The Huntington Ravine Trail is widely considered the most difficult trail in New Hampshire, making its way up the precipitous headwall of neighboring Huntington Ravine, where there are several rock climbing opportunities.[33]

On the other side of the notch, the Wildcat Range is a popular objective. The five summits can be reached via the Wildcat Ridge Trail; the first two miles are extremely difficult, and require skill on short, yet exposed, rock scrambles.[34] This part of the trail is frequently bypassed by following the ski area's Polecat Trail to the summit of D Peak.[35]

The Appalachian Trail, which extends over 2,150 miles (3,460 km) from Georgia to Maine,[36] runs along the Presidential Range before crossing the notch and ascending to the summits of the Wildcat Range.[37]

There are also less challenging hikes that are equally scenic, yet better suited for families with young children. Popular objectives include Glen Ellis Falls, a waterfall on the Ellis River, and Square Ledge, with an impressive view of Mount Washington for modest effort.[38]

The Wildcat Range, as seen from Tuckerman Ravine, forms the eastern slope of Pinkham Notch. A ski area operates on the range's northwestern face.

The area also has many opportunities for both alpine and Nordic skiing. The bowl of Tuckerman Ravine is famous for its extremely steep backcountry skiing.[5] Long lines are common during the peak spring-skiing season of April and May. Wildcat Mountain offers groomed ski trails and lifts, and is a better choice for less-experienced skiers. The centerpiece of the ski-area is the gondola, which runs during the summer, and offers views of the Presidentials with no expended effort.[7]

For Nordic skiing, Great Glen Trails offers a large, groomed trail system that also includes the lower half of the Auto Road.[39] Several warming huts are scattered around the trail system, including scenic Great Angel Cabin, with views of the Great Gulf and surrounding peaks.[40] Great Glen also permits biking on the trails during the summer, and is the only mountain bike facility in the notch. Another cross-country trail system exists in the town of Jackson, extending as far as the summit of Wildcat Mountain.[41]